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I ROOSEVELT'S 

Thrilling Experiences^ 

IN THE WILDS OF AFRICA 3/^v 

HUNTING BIG GAME 



^Exciting Adventures hunting the wild and ferocious beasts 
of the Jungle and Plain and mingling with the Savage People, 
studying their strange customs, their awful superstitions and 
weird beliefs, their curious marriage ceremonies and barbarous 
treatment of young girls and women .... 



^Together with graphic descriptions of the mighty rivers, 
wonderful cataracts, inland seas, vast lakes, great forests, and 
the diamond mines of untold wealth .... 



^ A vast Treasury of all that is wonderful, marvelous, interest- 
ing and instructive in the Dark Continent . . . . 
^Including the Story-Life of Roosevelt, with his boyhood ad- 
ventures and strenuous career on a Western Ranch 



BY- 



MARSHALL EVERETT. 

The Great Descriptive Writer and Traveler 



^ Illustrated with a large number of Exciting Hunting Scenes 
and Photographs of the Strange Natives of Darkest Africa 



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Copyright, 190!) 

BY 

J. H. Moss 



Copyright, 1910 

BY 

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THE HERO OF SAN JUAN HILL. 
When the news of Dewey's victory reached America, Mr. Eoosevelt resigned his position 
as Assistant Secretary of the Navy. "There is nothing more for me to do here," he 
said, "I have got to get into the fight myself." 









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ME. ROOSEVELT AS A COWBOY. 

In the Colonel's work, "Ranch Life and the Hunting Trail," the author 
pays the following tribute to the rough rider of the plains: "Brave, hospitable, 
hardy and adventurous, he is the grim pioneer of our land." 




Copyright 1909, by Umlerivood & Underwood, N. Y. 

THE HAPPY ANTICIPATION OF A FINE FEAST. 

They will chew him up with their sharp teeth like the Hyeiias down to the marrow 
of the bones. Such a huge water-buck not often falls prey to their gluttonous stomachs. 
When it comes to Lion hunting they all prefer staying in Camp. "Shimba" (The Lion) 
drives the fear of death into their hearts, especially if a Lion breaks the silence of the 
African night by his dreadful roaring. 




A WEIRD DANCE BY AFRICAN NATIVES. 
On festive occasions tliis dance is given. The heaJdress is made of grass fiber the 
necklaces are of dogs and other animal teeth, while the anklets are of feathers The central 
figure wears an enormous headdress of Bird-of-Paradise plumes surmounted by a gigantic 
aigrette of parrots' feathers. The dancers wear great bunches of grass behind and carry 
light wands purely for decorative effect. During these dances old tribal jealousies arise and 
a man finds opportunity to spear his adversary. 




WITH THE FIASHLIGHT CAMERA IN THE WILDS OF AFRICA. 

Zebras photographed by flashlight while drinking at night. The zebra advance very 
cautiously to a drinking place, but the herd feels quite safe under the guidance of a 
cautious and watchful male leader. Colonel Boosevelt and Kerinit secured some perfect 
specimens of this animal. 



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NO RACE SUICIDE IN THIS DISTRICT. 

Photograph of a South African warrior, his wives and family. Motherhood is regarded 
by these savage women as the greatest blessing that can come to them. 




PEEPAEING YOUNG ATEICAN GIELS FOE THE MAEEIAGE MAEKET. 



PUBLISHER'S PREFACE 



THE publishers of this work deem it fit to impress upon our readers 
that we have left nothing undone to make it in every respect 
worthy of its interesting subject and the august personality 
who plays such an important part in it. The fact that Theodore Eoose- 
velt is the hero of our book is alone enough to secure it an introduction 
and hearty welcome in every American home. Add to this the unusual 
environments in which he is placed, the thrilling incidents and narrow 
escapes he passes through, the tropical natural scenery in which he 
dwells, the many unknown and strange quadrujDeds, bipeds and quadru- 
mana he meets, the fabulous wealth of the African fauna and flora, 
which baffles his eyes, and you will see enacted before your wondering 
and admiring eyes a drama so unique, so exceptional and so extraordin- 
ary as to surpass anything you have either seen or heard of before. 
And, further, consider that this strange and fascinating world is 
described to you in the most picturesque and vivid language, by an 
author who is thoroughly familiar with his subject, who has spent years 
of his life in travels in all parts of the world, and with his own eyes seen 
many of the localities he depicts— if we did not know that we could offer 
ithe American public a work that in its kind has never yet been sur- 
passed, yea, not even equalled, we would not care to send it out with 
the imprint of our well-known firm. The text is embellished by hun- 
dreds of explanatory illustrations, many of them exact representations 
of photographs, or drawings of prominent artists and professional stu- 
dents of nature, and also by maps of some of the localities made world- 
famous by Roosevelt's exploits. 

We need not call the attention of parents, teachers and friends of 
the young to the high educational value of a work like this. It will 
place in the hands of our boys and young men a more welcome and 
needed substitute for the many novels and other story books of a 

33 



34 PUBLISHER'S PREFACE. 

doubtful nature, of which the bookmarket now abounds. It will divert 
the minds and thoughts of the young to nature, the source of health and 
happiness, prevent a morbid longing for and brooding on the dark deeds 
of the slippery dime-novel heroes, and steel the mind for noble and 
manly feats. Our ex-President, who in so many other respects, has 
broken new soil and opened new roads for our ambitious youth has 
also through the achievements related in this fascinating work proven 
himself a standardbearer of healthy and invigorating ideas, and a 
wayshower to hitherto untried fields of activity. 

But our book will not only serve as an entertainment on leisure hours 
or an instruction for the young. It also will atford an interesting, use- 
ful and profitable reading for the full-grown man or woman, who is 
seeking a refuge from overwork and business cares. Might it not even 
be possible, Mr. Businessman, that you will discover in these fascinat- 
ing pages new fields for your enterprising mind, new fields for Amer- 
ican trade and industry? The old world is soon covered by competing 
concerns— China and Japan will before long be able to supply their own 
demand and will become less and less dependent on America and 
Europe. But Africa's virgin soil and barbarian population will 
for decades and perhaps centuries to come be in need of our products 
and our commerce. This continent, therefore, deserves our more serious 
attention— it will no doubt become a source of untold wealth to those 
who understand to avail themselves of its resources and to supply its 
demands. From this point of view this irksome work will deserve the 
attention of the businessman no less than the educator. 

We feel confident that no one can read this book without feeling that 
he has spent his time most agreeably and profitably. 

We extend a hearty greeting to all our readers, young or old, and 
hope that they will join with us in a sincere wish that our work may find a 
way to every home in our country, where Theodore Eoosevelt's name 
is known and respected and where the flame of love for useful knowledge 
burns high on the family hearth. The Publishers. 



AUTHOR'S PREFACE 



WHEN Theodore Roosevelt after having swung the big stick 
over the heads of the evil-doers and dealt out a square deal to 
everybody for the space of seven years, covered with glory 
and beloved as no other President had ever been, retired to private life, 
he did not go to enjoy a well-needed rest in some of the paradises of 
France or Italy or idle away his leisure hours among the crowned heads 
of the old world— No, his active and restless spirit was clamoring for a 
still more strenuous life than before. 

From early youth Roosevelt had been deeply interested in hunting, 
natural history and scientific pursuits. This domineering trait in his 
character came to prominence already during his college years at 
Harvard. His early youth, therefore, was divided between bookstudies, 
athletic sports and hunting expeditions. And were it not for his strong 
sense of duty to his country andvhis public-spirited nature it is very 
likely that he never would have accepted the public offices, which un- 
sought came to him. It therefore was in perfect accord with his previous 
history when the papers announced that he was going straight from 
Washington and his beloved Oyster Bay as the head of an expedition 
undertaken by the Smithsonian Institution, to explore the wilderness of 
the Dark Continent and enrich our country with new and valuable spec- 
imens of the animal world of this wonderful region. 

This was the original and unexpected answer Roosevelt gave to the 
many questions as to what he would do when his term of office had ex- 
pired. It cannot be said that his enterprise was paved with unanimous 
approval. Thousands had expected him to spend his time at home and 
after a few weeks rest again enter the political arena, and voices of 
warning were heard from near and far. A journey in Africa is some- 
thing very different from a pleasure trip through Europe or America. 
Instead of gliding smoothly along in a luxurious parlor car, stopping 

35 



36 'AUTHOR'S PREFACE. 

now and then in large and heartily welcoming cities to listen to flattering 
eulogies from governors and captains of industry and commerce, the 
African traveller has to traverse the almost impenetrable jungles and 
marshes and endless forests of a wild and inhospitable country, where 
every step might bring disaster, sickness or even death either from 
disease or beast or the poisoned arrow from some treacherous savage's 
bow. 

But Roosevelt is not a man to balk in the face of difficulties. IKs 
iron will never faltered. Declining the flattering invitations that passed 
over him from all the courts of Europe he boarded the same magnificent 
steamer of the Hamburg American Line, which once had carried the 
Kaiser around the Mediterranean, and only 19 days after the expiration 
of his office term started his now so famous voyage to the land, in whose 
primeval forests he would have for his daily music the lion's roar, the 
leopard's grunting, the elephant's shrill trumpet-blasts, the boa-con- 
strictor's hissing or the concert of feathered tribes, to which our orches- 
tras seem tame and commonplace. 

This book gives you a vivid and lifelike description of what Roose- 
velt saw and experienced on this daring journey and tells about his 
unexampled encounters with the kings of the forest, the majectic lion, 
it lets all the wonders of the animal and vegetable world of the tropics 
pass before your eyes. It describes the habits, customs and appear- 
ance of unknown beasts, of graceful fishes, varicolored birds and bi-il- 
liant insects. And last but not least it introduces you to the primitive in- 
habitants of this mysterious continent, the brown and black savages, to 
whom civilization is a question mark and culture is as little known as 
snow in August. It makes you acquainted with the strange habits, super- 
stitious rites and religious ceremonies of these darkhued cousins of the 
apes and the monkeys, whose only right to bear the human name seems 
to be their poor and infantile jabbering. 

Nothing can indeed be more interesting and fascinating than to 
read about these strange human beings, their ways, their daily life, 
their marriage customs, and their adventurous existence. This book 
tells you all about it and it places it all before your wondering eyes 
not only in words but also in pictures drawn from life by some of the 
world's greatest masters. The Authob. 



TABLE OF CONTENTS 



Publisher's Preface 33 

Author's Preface 35 

CHAPTER I. 

OBJECT OF ROOSEVELT'S AFRICAN EXPEDITION. 

Roosevelt's Exciting Encounter with a Lion — A Frightful Spectacle — How the Lion is 
Traced and Finally Brought at Bay — Roosevelt's Narrow Escape from the Lion's 
Teeth — ^His Marvelous Presence of Mind Saves Him 41 

CHAPTER II. 

•• FROM MOMBASA TO THE WILDERNESS. 

Old and New Mombasa— Its Romantic History — Enthusiastic Reception to Roosevelt — 
Tropical Scenery — The Desert and the Jungle — The Railroad from Mombasa to 
Nairobi, the Chicago of East Africa 57 

CHAPTER III. 
LIFE OF THEODORE ROOSEVELT. 

His Ancestors and Boyhood Days — College Studies — His Brilliant Political Career — On a 

Western Ranch — The Rough Rider— Stories and Anecdotes 71 

CHAPTER IV. 

STORIES AND ANECDOTES ABOUT ROOSEVELT. 

How He Looked When a Boy— Was a Born Leader — The Old Dutch Reformed Church — ^How 

He Strengthened His Delicate Frame — First Love 75 

CHAPTER V. 

BIG GAME WHICH ROOSEVELT HUNTED IN BRITISH EAST AFRICA. 

The Lion and Other Beasts of Prey — The Elephant and Other Huge Thick-Skinned Animals 

— The Rhinoceros and Hippopotamus— The Royal Game — The Buffalo, the Giraffe, the 

Camel and the African Antelope — Monkeys, Crocodiles, Snakes, and Other Venomous 

Reptiles 83 

CHAPTER VI. 
ROOSEVELT'S HUNTING GROUNDS. 
British East ^frica — The Chicago of East Africa — Tropical Scenery — Primeval Forests, 
Rocky Mountains and Running Streams — Wonders of the Animal and Vegetable King- 
doms — Pheasants, Doves, Monkeys — Flowers in All the Colors of the Rainbow — Man's 
Cruelty Marring the Beauty of Nature 89 

37 



n 



38 TABLE OF COXTEXTS. 

CHAPTER VIL 

EOOiiEVELT'S LIFE UT THE WEST. 

Eseitiijg AdTenmres — A Mistaken Ruman — A Weitem Episode — The Pleasnres of the ! 

CluLS« — Shoots His Ftrsx Buffalo — KilU Two Deer at Four Hundred Yards — An Es- } 

dting Elk Hunt — Hunting Dangerous Game — Standi OS a Band of Indians — Tribute ' 

to the Bon^ Riders 95 



CHAPTER vm. 
NATIVE-S OF AFRICA. 

What Specimens of Hmnaaity Booseveli Met in Airica — Black and WTiite — ^Arabs. Negroes 

and Other Races — Hottentots and Bushmen — Speke"s and Burton's Discoveries.. . 105 



CHAPTER IX. 
ROOSEVELT— THE ROUGH RIDER. 

Organizing the Regiment — A Composite Lot — College Athletes and Cowboys — The Officers 
— Orders to March — The T.gii.ting of Daiquiri — The First Skirmish — ^Death of Sergeant 
Fish and Captain Capron — The La Quassina Fight — The Baptism of Fire — San -Jaan 
TfitT — The Surrender of Santiago — The Celebrated "IBound Bobin'^... 129 



CHAPTER X. 
ROOSEVELT'S FIRST EXPERIENCE AS AS AFRICAN HITNIER. 
He KilU a Gnu or Wildebeeste — Despatches Three Lions in One Day — Kermit Makes an 
Expedition on His Own Hook — Smallpox Scare in the Camp — Other ThriHing In- 
cidents l-iS 



CHAPTER XL 
ROOSEVELrS REMARKABLE SKILL AS A HUflTER. 
Escitfajg Encoonters with a Bull Eiiinocerous — The First Elepiiant Falls for His Never 
Failing Bullet — Giraffes, Leopards and Other Beasts Bagged— Cubs Captured Alive 147 



CHAPTER Xn. 

ROOSEVELT'S THRLLLLSG EXPERIENCES HUNTING BIG GAME. 

By J. T. Thompson. 

How CoL Roosevelt Hunted Lions — Exciting Advenmres with Elephants, Rhinoceri, 

Hippopotami, Lions, Etc. — ^Hnnting Big Game Hard, Strenuous Work — The Colonel 

a Mighty Hunter — ^Saved from Death in the Nick of Time — ^Kermit a Good Shot— 

What the Smallpox Scare Revealed — ^Loring and Meams Climb Mount Kenia — CoL 

Roosevelt Discovers New ATiimal — Last Stage of the Hunting Trip — Smithsoni-n 

bistitote Recerves Greatest Collection of Specimens in the World. . . loi 



TABLE OF COXTEXTS. 39 

CHAPTEB Xm 

EOOSEVEIT^S VISITS TO CHEISTIA5 MISSIONS Df AFSICA. 

EeligioES of Africa — feT>fhi»m — Oeril Worship — ^PiKtagnese aad Fratestaat ll Wa n Ti — 

Londoa Misskmaiy Sodetf — liriogstaBe — Dotdi BefoiiBed Omch — AaariaiB ICe- 

sions — Catholic liflssicHis in Kcrthem Africa — ^PaseeatioBs — ^Maityrdags — A Quistiaa 

Bnler 169 

CHAPTEE XIV. 
THE AFB0-AME2ICAS JTEGKO AST) THE SLAVE TRADE. 
How the SJave Trade Orleinaicd — CrueZrr cf t'-? S'.'Te Tr^i-r? — Errrr? lo S-ir.Trres It — 
Liberia. -r J.:-: ir;-:i- ?T — I : - i CUU 

— ^The Vjune of Pemaie Slaves l " ; 

CHAPTER XV. 
UVI^^GSTOSE TEE MISSIONARY A!ID EXPLORER. 
His Edaeation and Early Ainbitions — ^Kis Trirr; ::r Kr:— 'iicja — Sraiies Wl5y>fe Mot 
in Factory — Intended to Go to Crii^ c^: --ii PrcT^iinujlIr DiiciSed lo 
Exciting Experiesees — Thriliing AdreBtnres aad Epoch- Vating DBeorcrics ta the 
Dark Continent 1B3 



CHAPTER XVI. 
UVIKGSTOHE'S SEC05D JOrXJiET THSOrOH AFSICA 
The ExpeditioB to the Zambesi Eiver — Lirlr^'-re ari His 5fi>:l::: — z\i iZi-'i^Lz: 
Marshes — To the Great Lake — ffippopotamns Trap — The Great Uavashed — Lake 
Xvassa — ^Ascent of Zambesi — ^Insolait FetrriBca — The TiKoria Falls — The White 
Slan Most be SaT?d~— FreeiBg SlaTea— Heart-BeadiBg Stones— Sare Hoiite^ Es- 
cape— A Desolated GoaiitrT— Bobbed— Airiral (tf Slares :<3 

CHAPTER XVn. 
LrTCTGSTOHK^ LAST EXPEDITION. 
Attendants ari Arrivais — Misiortaaes -Hje Opsa Sore of the W<Hid — Loss cf M:'i;=ir?s — 
niness— A Marr;3g\; — ^An Earth^puke— Soioos lilacs— Theft of Goods— "S-rr—t IVLiT 
I Ever Had" — Bn^^ Hearts — A Joamef Through "Du^ns — Death Threat^ted Thzice 
in One Day— Destitute— The Darkest Hou^-The Daw»— The Stars and Stripes at 
t-jiji — Henry M. Stanley— Hard^^— His Last Pr»yer-^ia Death DtseoToed 229 

CHAPTER xnn 

STAHLET^ SEARCH FOR LmSGSTOHE. 
Birth and Touth of Stanley — To America — In the OoBlederate ArrEy — la tie IT. S. Xavr — 
Adventures in Turkey — In Aby^wa — In Spain — Tlad liTii^sTODe" — C^ to ZasziGor 
— Shonting Hi^iopotaini— Xews of liri^staoe— An Insoleat FeDoT— Att^ipt io 
Assasanate Stanle* — Fever — ^Wsr — ^Miraiabo aad His Msdeeds ?f j 



40 TABLE OF CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER XIX. 
HOW STANLEY FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

A Mutiny — Stanley's Life Again Attempted — Attaclv of a Leopard — Lions Near the Camp 
— "A AVliite Man at Ujiji" — Silencing a Woman — Tanganyika — "Dr. Livingstone, I 
Presume" — Under the Palms of L^jiji — A Lion in the Grass — Parting from Livingstone 
—"Drop that Box and I Will Shoot Ycu"— Going Home 285 

CHAPTER XX. 
STANLEY'S TRIUMPHANT MARCH ACROSS THE DARK CONTINENT. 

Stanley Explores Same Ground as Roosevelt — Preparations for the Journey — Departure — 
Interviewed by Lions — A Three Days' Fight — Crocodiles and Hippopotami — Sickness 
and Death in the Camji — A Murderous Outbreak — A Fight and a Fine — Uganda and 
Its People — Panic in the Camp — The Terror of Africa — In Dwarf Land — Cataracts and 
Cannibals— The Congo— Struggling On — Victoria and Albert Nyanza 299 

CHAPTER XXI. 

RETURN OF COL. ROOSEVELT FROM THE JUNGLE. 

By Peter MacQueen, F. R. G. S. 

Remarkable Reputation He Made as a IMan, a Hunter and a Statesman — The Eyes of the 

Whole World on This Great American, His Speeches and Striking Personality — What 

I Found Out in Traveling Over the United States — A Glimpse Into the Future 367 

CHAPTER XXII. 

COL. ROOSEVELT'S TRIUMPHANT TRIP THROUGH EUROPE. 

By J. T. Thompson. 

The Ex-President Makes a Memorable Speech in Cairo, Egypt— Visits the Pyramids and 

Sphinx— Embarks for Italy— Feted and Dined by the King of Italy— Col. Roosevelt's 

Own Statement of Why He Did Not Visit the Pope 377 

CHAPTER XXni. 
KUOSiBVET,T IW TWR EYE OF THE WORLD. 
Arrives in Paris, France, Guest of President of the Republic — Keviews Great Sham Battle 
Speaks at Sorbornes — Great Reception in Holland — Honored in Belgium — Den- 
mark — Delivers Noble Lecture in Norway and also Visits Sweden 3SG 

CHAPTER XXIV. 
TRIUMPHAL JOURNEY THROUGH EUROPE. 
Guest of the Emperor of Germany— Speech before German University — Participates with 
Kaiser in Mimic War — Death of King Edward VII. Stops all Future Festivities — 
Roosevelt Appointed Special American Ambassador to King Edward's Funeral — In 
London, England— The City in Gloom and Sadness— A Gorgeous Pagent— Col. Roose- 
velt Receives Degree from Oxford 424 



CHAPTER I. 
• OBJECT OF ROOSEVELT'S AFRICAN EXPEDITION. 

Roosevelt's Exciting Encounter with a Lion — A Frightful Spectacle — How the Lion is Traced 
and Finally Brought at Bay — Roosevelt's Narrow Escape from the Lion's Teeth — Hi3 
Marvelous Presence of Mind Saves Him. 

ROOSEVELT had not been many days on African soil when he had 
a chance to show his record-breaking sliill as a crackshot in the 
encounter with a lion. 

The lion hunt is one of the most exciting and perilous events in an 
African explorer's experience. The king of the forests had to be found 
in his jungle bed and driven by mounted natives through grass, under- 
bush and morasses until he was brought at bay. Woe to the man who 
misses the target or loses his presence of mind when the lion, swifter 
than a galloping race-horse, darts at him in blind fury. 

Three lions had been discovered attacking a buffalo on the open 
prairie at the edge of a jungle. Two of Roosevelt's companions were 
trying to drive the beasts in the direction of the other members of the 
party. Two of the lions, frightened by the sudden attack and instinct- 
ively trying to save themselves, bounded off and hid in the high grass, 
but the third and largest one with a terrific roar, that shook the <■ ound 
almost like an earthquake, made for the terrified men with a leap 
through the air swift as lightning, and in one instant they would have 
been between his jaws— when "Crack!" echoed a rifle over the vast 
plains and down to earth tumbled Roosevelt's first big African game— 
and the lives of the men were saved. 

The same day another lion was found. One of the frightened bearers 
fired at the beast but missed. The infuriated animal crouching for a 
last leap, which would have in a moment sent the bearer into eternity,, 
charged at him with lightning speed, and the horrified man made a 
wild dash to get under Roosevelt's protection. The Es-President was 

41 



42 



OBJECT OF ROOSEVELT'S EXPEDITION. 



on a run, however, and approaching the lion on the right side, where 
his heart could not be reached. "What was to be done? There was no 
time for long deliberation. A second more and the man would have been 




THE KIND OF UONS EOOSEVELT SHOT IN AFRICA. 



killed. With the same coldblooded presence of mind and quick decision, 
which always had characterized him, whether commanding the Ameri- 
can Rough Eiders against the Spanish fusillades or swinging the famous 
Big Stick over the shivering heads of the Trusts or the leaders of des- 
potic labor unions he threw his rifle to his shoulder and, aiming at the 
only unprotected vulnerable spot, the spine, split it with one hall. 



OBJECT OF ROOSEVELT'S EXPEDITION. 



43 



The man's life was saved, and Eoosevelt had in less than one day 
won from the natives the proud title of The Lion Slayer. 

Let us now go back to the historical events, which led up to the above 



described interesting incidents. 




PlilMIlIVE METHODS OF lUE PEOPLE Of ATBICA, 



Why did Eoosevelt go to Africa? Why did he not stay at home and 
take an active and influential part in our internal politics even after his 
official term as President of the greatest and most progressive nation on 
earth has expired? He no doubt could have followed the example of 
Prince Bismark who even after his retirement from public life for a 
number of years continued to be the most influential man in the German 
Empire. Eoosevelt 's unequaled popularity certainly would have made 



44 



OBJECT OF ROOSEVELT'S EXPEDITION. 



him an even greater power in American politics than any office-holder, 
no matter how high and exalted. 

But Koosevelt is not and never was neither an office seeker nor a 
popularity hunter. He is an independent man of principle, and from 
early youth he had heen a lover of sports and nature. The cowhoys in 
the Eocky Mountains and the ranchmen in the great American wilds 
can tell many a thrilling story of adventure about the young college- 
bred huntsman who could run down the grizzly and lasso the wild horse 




From the Miuneapolis Journal* 



MOVING DAY AT THE WHH'E HOUSE. 



with even more skill than they, who were horn and bred among the mov- 
ing herds of the deserts. But he apparently had already exhausted the 
American supply of big game. Leaving the popular "Teddy-Bears" 
to the children as a remembrance of his youthful feats, where else 
could he go but to Africa, the only continent still remaining so to say 
in Nature's hands; to Africa where still are found in their natural 
state the interesting specimens of the animal kingdom, which have not 
yet been exterminated by our advancing civilization ; to Africa, which 
still teems with millions of savages, many of whom are not far above 
the wild beasts. And to Africa he went ! 




ATBICAN LIONS HOWLING ON A MOONLIGHT NIGHT. 



46 OBJECT OF ROOSEVELT'S EXPEDITION. 

FROM NEW yOBK TO MOMBASA, 

Realizing the value of time Roosevelt left New York two weeks after 
President Taft's inauguration, on March 23, 1909. His destination was 
British East Africa including a voyage on the great Victoria Nyanza 
and a journey down the valley of the Nile. Ostensibly he went for a 
fifteen months' recreation ti'ip, but the real object of his enterprize was 
not pleasure but rather scientific. For he was the head of an expedi- 
tion undertaken by the great Smithsonian Institution in active charge of 
N. J. Cunninghame of Nairobi, the headquarters of the Uganda Rail- 
road Co., one of the most expert of African hunters. Other members 
of the party were the famous siDortsman and author F. C. Selous, and the 
Ex-President's son, Kermit, a youth of twenty summers, who was the 
official photographer of the expedition. A number of newspaper re- 
porters from Europe and America swarmed around the former chief 
anxious to follow him on his adventurous trip but they were all refused 
the privilege and the bold warrior even threatened to drive them away 
by force if they should attempt to intrude upon his privacy. 

His departure from New York was one of the most memorable 
events in his triumphant career. Had he ever entertained any doubts 
as to his popularity with the American peop'e, they were dispersed like 
dust before a cyclone when he saw tens of thousands of enthusiastic 
men and women from all parts of this vast country crowded along the 
pier anxious to get a glimpse of their former chief and beloved national 
hero. The crowd was so dense that the ex-President had to be escorted 
to the landing by mounted police. In fact, he was almost borne on the 
hands of the people to the waiting steamer. On board the great liner 
Hamburg, which was ready to take him to his point of destination, he 
was received and greeted by President Taft's representative and mili- 
tary aide. Captain Archibold W. Butt, of the quartermaster's depart- 
ment of the army, wishing the former chief executive "Good-bye and 
the best of health," and presenting him with a gold seal inscribed with 
the name "Theodore Roosevelt," as a symbol of the "Square Deal" 
he had meted out to everyone. Roosevelt returned his "best wishes 
to the President," and then sent him the following brief but expres- 
sive telegram: "Parting thanks, love and sincere wishes." Men 



'OBJECT OF ROOSEVELT'S EXPEDITION. 



47 




From the aiinneapolis Journal. 



THE ROOSEVELT GUARD, 



prominent in politics, and influential in finance and business, office- 
holders and men in all walks of life, foreign and domestic diplomats, 
educators and public men were there to bid the most distinguished 
American citizen good-bye. Italian and German marine bands struck 



i8 OBJECT OF ROOSEVELT'S EXPEDITION. 

up national airs and all were agreed that they had never witnessed 
anything to compare with this most hearty and brilliant farewell 
acclaim. 

The steamer Hamburg is one of the most luxuriously equipped and 
commodious steamers of the Hamburg-American line that cross the 
Atlantic. A suite of five elegantly furnished rooms— once occupied by 
the Kaiser on his Mediterranean tour — had been reserved for him. Here 
he met former Secretary of State, Senator Elihu Root, Senator Lodge, 
of Massachusetts, and Mrs. Admiral Cowles, of the navy, the ex-Presi- . 
dent's sister. 

Looking out of the door at the crowds gathered before it, he caught 
sight of his former private secretary, Mr. Loeb. Grasping him by the 
hand and giving him a pull which bi'ought him past the two police- 
ofScers who were guarding the entrance, he cried: "Come, Loeb, come 
here." A newswriter was greeted with a friendly "Let the muck- 
raker in." Still more cordial was the reception allowed some Eough 
Eiders. "Let them pass," he cried and saluted them with a hearty 
grasp of his hand. 

INCIDENTS DURING THE VOYAGE FROM NEW YORK TO NAPLES. 

The steamship company had made the most exquisite and elaborate 
provisions for the comfort of its distinguished passenger. The walls 
in his department were adorned with portraits of Mrs. Eoosevelt, Presi- 
dent Taft and the Kaiser, picture of the ex-President's home at Oyster 
Bay, scenery from Europe and Africa, and other jDleasing decorations. 

When the steamer whistle sounded for all ashore and the majestic 
steamer slowly backed into the river, the immense crowds on the pier 
began to cheer, the whistles of every factory and steamer shrieked, the 
ladies waved their handkerchiefs— and the great chief was off under 
more boisterous demonstrations than New York had seen for years. 

The voyage was not characterized by any remarkable incidents. 
Like most crossings of the ocean, it was monotonous, every one having 
to follow the ship's prescribed routine. It was probnbV to relieve the 
monotony of the reports that some news agents invented the unfounded 
■tory of that an attempt to assassinate the ex-President had been made 




Copyright 1909, bv Underwood & Underwood, N. Y. 

WARRIORS AND TRIBES IN THEIR WONDERFUL COSTUMES WAITING TO 

GREET COL. ROOSEVELT. 

The Women and Children are in front and the Warriors at the back. The headgear 
of the warriors is most elaborate, being made of wicker work and shells with enormous 
ostrich plumes, which, though barbaric, makes a fantastic picture. Note the tail piece 
which the women on the right of the picture have on; that is the symbol of marriage 
and it is practically all of the clothes most of the women wear. The women and children 
nearly all have sticks or gourds in their hands and the warriors their long spears. Col. 
Roosevelt was greatly pleased with the reception given him by these native savages. 




From Stereograph, Copyright 1909, by Underwood & Underwood. 
COL. ROOSEVELT'S GUARD OF HONOR. 

These Native Troops are drilled by European officers and are efficient and capable. 
They act as police in maintaining law "and order throughout British East Afrisa. They 
met Col. Eoosevelt on his arrival and escorted him to the Government House. 



OBJECT OF ROOSEVELT'S EXPEDITION. 



49 




From the Minneapolis JouinaJ, 



GOODBYE, TEDDY ! TAKE GOOD CAKE OF YOUKSELF. 



by a steerage passenger. When Roosevelt heard of this unnatural 
story, he expressed his regret that such a dastardly lie had been allowed 
to gain publicity, and to show his confidence in his poor fellow-passen- 
gers, he went down to the third-class passengers and shook hands with 



50 OBJECT OF ROOSEVELT'S EXPEDITION. 

every one of them. In fact, Eoosevelt was the most popular of all the 
passengers on the Hamburg and no one ever thought of doing him any 
harm. 

KECEPTION IN EUEOPE. 

All Europe had been anxious to see and welcome our former Presi- 
dent. Invitations for him to visit all the capitals of the Old World had 
been sent out and rejected; but nothing could prevent the Europeans 
from manifesting their interest in this extraordinary man by extend- 
ing to him a most cordial and elaborate welcome upon his arrival at 
Naples. Thousands had gathered there from far and near to greet 
the former executive. The U. S. Ambassador, Griscom, had come down 
from Rome, and newspaper men from all the capitals of Europe had 
hurried to Naples to interview him and to cable their impressions to 
their respective countries. 

He left Naples late at night by the steamer Admiral which was go- 
ing to take him to the I'uins of Messina and to Mombasa— gliding slowly 
along the beautiful Italian shore through the balmy breezes of southern 
Europe. He passed close to the Lipari Islands and the volcano Strom- 
boli whose cone rising more than 3,500 feet above the sea sent out a huge 
column of vapor that enwrapped the whole country in its cloudy veil. 
About noon they passed through the Strait of Messina, where the 
ancients believe that the two horrible sea monsters, Scylla and Cha- 
rybdis who according to the immortal Homer, caused the Trojan hero 
Ulysses so much trouble, had their abodes. It is not recorded, however, 
that our national hero had any difficulty in escaping these fabled mon- 
sters, and he arrived hale and hearty at Messina, so recently the theatre 
of one of the most terrible spectacles contemporary annals have 
registered. 

A SCENE OF DESOLATION. 

Approaching Messina and armed with a pair of marine glasses, 
Boosevelt saw at a distance the barren ruins of the wrecked city. Ob- 
serving them from a distance, he remarked: "There is more standing 
than I expected." He was greeted by an immense crowd at the land- 
ing, and was saluted by the Ke Umberto with the King of Italy on 



OBJECT OF ROOSEVELT'S EXPEDITION. 



51 



board. The King sent Captain Pfeister, the former Italian military 
attache at Washington and now adjutant to Admiral Mirabello, with 
his compliments and an invitation to his presence. Eoosevelt with his 
son Kermit and Ambassador Griseom at once set out for the battleship 



WHAT A\AKES /^R.TlLLnAM 5Mii:E^ 




LET,S LOURTTri ^HE BOOK AND 3Ee. 



From the MiBneapolis Journal. 

WISHING EOOSEVELT A WABM BECEPTION IN AFBICA. 



52 



OBJECT OF ROOSEVELT'S EXPEDITION. 



and were met by the King at the gangway and greeted by a most cordial 
handshake. The King was anxious to meet so distinguished a per- 
sonage and thank him for the assistance his country had extended to 
Italy in her affliction. Keplying Roosevelt emphasized that the Ameri- 




^^z- 



from uiQ luiuiicupuiis juutuui. 



he's C0M1^•Q; ROYS — LET S SKIDDOO, 



OBJECT OF ROOSEVELT'S EXPEDITION. 53 

can people did not want any thanks and had simply done its duty. The 
King wished him a successful hunting trip and expressed the hope 
that he would meet the Count of Turin who had just gone on an expedi- 
tion in Africa. Before they left a photograph was taken of a group 
consisting of Roosevelt and his party and the King. 

Immediately at the close of the reception, Roosevelt and his party 
went ashore to inspect the ruins of the once beautiful city. Signer 
Trincheri, the prefect of Messina, who under orders from Premier 
Gialitti, was their guide, took them into the interior of the gigantic heap 
of waste and rubbish, which a few weeks before had been Messina. The 
desolation was appalling. Ruins of palaces, blocks of stone and antique 
pillars caused them much trouble in making their way through the city 
and a heavy rain, which soon began to fall, increased their difficulties, 
the mud being almost knee-deep. The people emulated in showing him 
their appreciation and gratefulness. Many women kissed their hands 
to him, while the children threw roses in his path and the men cheered. 
This spontaneous expression of sympathy moved him to emotion, and 
turning to one of his party, he said : " I am glad and proud as an Ameri- 
can citizen that my country could do something to help this immense 
disaster, for which even all the assistance in the world would be 
insufficient. ' ' 

FEOM MESSINA TO MOMBASA. 

The three days voyage across the always storm tossed Mediter- 
ranean brought our ex-President in touch with passengers, most of 
whom were officials or residents of the Dark Continent. The majority 
of them were of mixed English, German and Portuguese descent, and 
the stories wherewith they regaled our ex-President were certainly not 
lacking in spiciness or dramatic flavor. 

An old fellow, whose respect for the truth certainly was not sur- 
passed by his hatred for the tame and commonplace, told of the dog- 
headed monkeys he had seen in Nairobi, who had heads and claws like 
dogs and barked like them. Another old hunter spoke about a people 
who are wondrous swift though they progress by hopping on one leg. 
At midday, he said, when unable to find a forest shade, they lie down 



54 



OBJECT OF ROOSEVELT'S EXPEDITION. 



upon the back and hold their foot aloft, which is so large that it serves 
the purpose of a shade umbrella in protecting their bodies from the 
sun. There were also, another of his fellow-passengers afSrmed, a 
headless people, whose heads and mouths were situated on their breasts, 
but who had neither ears nor nose. 




From the MinQeapolis JoumaL 



HOOR.VH ! he's gone ! let's celebbate. 



THEOUGH THE SUEZ CANAL, 

In Port Said, the northern entrance to the Suez Canal, Roosevelt 
first set foot on African soil. "While the steamer was coaling there, he 
had a good opportunity to observe the half naked, jabbering and per- 
spiring natives and to see their huts and primitive dwellings, as well 
as the public buildings, the canal offices and the modern hotels. Black 
and Nubians, Sudanese of every tribe and color, Arabs and Egyptians 
from the desert and mountainous regions of the Holy Land, all wearing 
their mani-colored Oriental apparel, were so blended in this meeting 
place of the East, the West and the Tropics as to make the whole one 
of the most varied and wild places ever witnessed by a stranger. In 
fine, everything in Port Said, whether white, black or yellow had 



OBJECT OF ROOSEVELT'S EXPEDITION. 55 

gathered round the pier to get a glimpse of the most famous man in 
the world. 

The trip through the Suez Canal was no doubt Roosevelt's most 
interesting experience so far. Standing on the bridge of the vessel 
during the entire trip he evinced most intense interest in that great 
waterway from end to end. It no doubt reminded him of the Panama 
Canal, which he had personally inspected, and one of the greatest enter- 
prises commenced during his administration. He scanned the channel 
minutely on either side and plied Ambassador Juserand with volleys 
of questions concerning the cost, construction, operation and profits, 
while the steamer slowly and solemnly glided through the narrow 
waterway between low and level shores stretching as far as the eye 
could reach over sandy wastes and barren plains to the distant horizon, 
where the towering pink and bluish mountain chains of the Holy Land 
like a ghostly vision on the eastern sky only added to the lonely desola- 
tion of the landscape. 

As the Admiral entered Bitter Dakes Roosevelt was greeted with 
hearty cheers from passengers on the Indian liner City of Paris. A 
huge Teddy Bear on the liner's bridge amused him and he waved his 
sombrero in acknowledgment. The cheers were heartily participated 
in by the natives, some on camels, some on mules and some on sandaled 
feet who traveled with the steamer or were going northward. At short 
intervals little Arab settlements, rising like dust-covered spectres out 
of the sand on either side came to view and relieved the hopeless 
monotony of the desert. As the ship passed some of the neatly kept 
canal stations, which now and then reminded the traveler of a more 
advanced civilization than the surrounding country can boast, Kermit, 
Dr. Mearns and other hunters who disembarked at Ismalia returned to 
the ship here having bagged a few quail. 

The Suez Canal passes through the hottest places on earth, with 
not a bit of vegetation. There is practically no rainfall except once a 
year, and the water is collected in great dams in the rocky gorges back 
of the towns and supplied to the public in barrels, hauled by donkeys, 
camels and big Indian humped oxen, as well as carried in goat skins on 
the backs of men. Beyond Suez, the southern terminal point of the 



56 OBJECT OF ROOSEVELT'S EXPEDITION. 

canal, the traveler is reminded of the passage of the Israelites through 
the Red Sea, while towards the east might be seen the shadowy peaks 
of Mount Sinai, where Moses received the Ten Commandments from 
the Lord's hands under lightning and thunder. 

There is no relief from the scourging heat as the steamer gets into 
the Eed Sea, along whose shores the sun of the tropics has dried up 
every b'ade of grass and where not even a lonely lion breaks the mute 
monotony of those fierce solitudes. 

As you approach Aden some barren, bleak and red islands rise and 
fade away, and other red peaks frown over the desert city as the ship 
anchors in the green water. The noisy throng of natives who swarm 
about the steamer in their little boats offering sandalwood, ivory, sea- 
shells, ostrich feathers and other queer products of Africa do not pre- 
vent you from enjoying the brilliant spectacle of the exquisite tropical 
sunrise that greets you. While the steamer is coaling you disembark 
and go to take in the city. You drive to Solomon's Wells, said to have 
been built by this illustrious monarch. 

The Oriental features of Aden represent nothing attractive to an 
American. The dirt and filth can not but be disgusting to one who 
comes from a land, where "cleanliness is next to godliness," and the 
lean and emaciated, long-limbed, black-skinned and woolly specimens 
of humanity who carry coal in baskets to the ship or throng the narrow 
lanes as you take a drive in one of the little, ramshackle phaetons, while 
the poor, unfed horses threaten to collapse before getting half the way, 
are not calculated to inspire you with any high ideas of Oriental civiliza- 
tion. 

Soaking in the hot sunshine in the square stands a beautiful marble 
statue of Queen Victoria looking down upon this varied scenery of 
poverty, brutality, and Oriental laziness, while ships from Australia, 
India and China are coaling in the harbor and a few English ofiScials 
pass from building to building indifferent to both natives and strangers. 
In other parts of this mongrel city are seen black-curled Jewish 
merchants, turbaned Arabs or Hindus, tall and proud Persian princes 
on long-tailed Arab steeds or in queer carts drawn by donkeys or 
camels, whUe native Africans of various tribes and colors pass to and 
fro. 



CHAPTER II. 
FROM MOMBASA TO THE WILDERNESS. 

Old and New Mombasa— Its Romantic History— Enthusiastic Reception to Roosevelt— Trop- 
ical Scenery— The Desert and the Jungle — The Railroad from Mombasa to Nairobi, the 
Chicago of East Africa. 

WHEN Roosevelt first landed on African soil he did not come to 
a new country. Old Mombasa, where he arrived- April 31, is 
over 400 years old. He found it inhabited by over 60,000 peo- 
ple, half of whom xifrican natives, lithe, dignified worshippers of the 
prophet of Mecca, stout Soudanese, calm and dusky Hindoos, alert and 




WABFAEE or THE NATIVES ALONG THE UGANDA BOAD. 

57 



58 FROM MOMBASA TO THE WILDERNESS. 

warlike Somalis. The city well deserves its name, "The Battle City," 
for it has for centuries been the bone of contention between the Portu- 
guese, the Arabs and the English on account of its great commercial im- 
portance as a depot of the trade in rubber, skins, ivory, and slaves, until 
its final capture by the Imperial British East African Company, in 1887, 
made an end of the old feuds. 

The new city is located nearer the ocean than the old. It has m.my 
attractive features, two or three comfortable hotels and an excellent 
clubhouse frequented by Americans, Englishmen and commercial 
travelers, and extends a hearty welcome to white visitors. The East 
India Bank is a'.so located in the new city. One of its characteristic 
novelties is the many street car lines, which not only take care of the 
communication along the main thoroughfares but also branch off into 
every private house, the little cars which transport the wealthy Euro- 
pean residents to and from their offices being pushed along by native 
coolies. Roosevelt found this commodious and novel transportation 
very convenient in this tropical climate. Unfort.mately the new city 
has no harbor, but two miles to the southeast is the port of Kilindinis, 
with anchorage for ships of the largest tonnage, which therefore first 
receives the important passengers and valuable cargoes destined for 
British East Africa and Mombasa, and no doubt in a not far distant 
future will become the headquarters both of the government, railroads 
and commerce. It was here Eoosevelt and his party landed, and not- 
withstanding a tropical rain, pouring down in torrents, the shores 
were crowded with Afro-Europeans, Arabs, Hindoos and natives, and 
a military band struck up "The Star Si^angled Banner," and under 
the constant cheer of this mongrel population the Ex-President was 
conducted by thti Commissioner of the province to the government 
house. 

PKEPAKATIONS FOB THE GREAT HUNT. 

With the eagerness and enthusiasm of the genuine sportsman and 
true American he did not stay here long, however, but at once started 
to make preparations for entering the wilds. 

You might imagine that anyone can go hunting in the wilds of 
Africa without government permission. Not so, however. You have 



FROM MOMBASA TO THE WILDERNESS. 



59 



to take out a license ranging from $85 for an elephant to $25 for a giraffe 
or rhinoceros and $15 for an antelope, and the killing is limted to two 




FIGHT BETWEEN ELEPHANT AND BHINOCEBOS. 



elephants, rhinoceri, hippopotomi and zebras, which animals as well as 
buffaloes and ostriches are classified and protected as Eoyal Game. 
The British authorities courteously offered to dispense with these 
formalities but in true democratic spirit Eoosevelt refused to receive 
special privileges and insisted, as he always has done in America, that 



60 



FROM MOMBASA TO THE WILDERNESS. 



the law should be enforced. Lions and leopards are classed as peats and 
vermin condemned to extermination and, therefore, may be killed without 
a license. 

To a complete equipment of an African hunting expedition also be- 
longs the indispensable native help, which is usually figured at thirty 




From the Minneapolis Journal. 



THE AMERICAN DANIEL IN THE UON'S DEN. 



FROM MOMBASA TO THE WILDERNESS. 61 

bearers for each white person and his baggage weighing about sixty 
pounds. They are paid from $4.50 to $25 per month, besides board, 
consisting of cereals aiid fresh meat, of which they devour enormous 
quantities every day, not only picking the bones clean but also extract- 
ing the marrow. A medium-sized party will consume two elands and 
waterbueks, animals as big as our common ox, every day, if they can 
get it, and if they don't they will be sure to grumble. 

Among Roosevelt's best and most reliable helpers were the Somali 
or Shikaris. They are absolutely fearless in the face of death, being 
fatalists as all Mohammedans, scrupulously clean and as temperate 
as our most immaculate teetotalers— their religion absolutely prohibit- 
ing the use of intoxicants. They are most faithful servants and as ready 
to die for their master as other natives are to desert him. The records 
of African Hunting Grounds are full of stories of the bravery of these 
sons of the wilderness. A Somali will for instance follow the fresh 
track of a lion to the mouth of its dark cave, the small opening of which 
will admit only two men. Without a moment's hesitation they enter 
the cave one armed with a rifle the other with nothing but a butcher's 
knife. Cheerily they proceed in the darkness chanting their "God 
willing we come back." Or a lion charges a white hunter and his Somali 
gun bearer. It crushes him to the ground, but swift as lightning the 
Somali circles around, springs upon the back of the infuriated beast, 
cuts his teeth deep into his neck, pulls its ears and pounds his eyes so 
ferociously that the beast turns upon him, and gives the white hunter 
an opporttmity to pull his rifle free and chase a bullet through the lion's 
brains. 

A leader, a headsman, a gunbearer, a cook, a mess-boy and a tent-boy, 
twenty to twenty-five native bearers, tents, beds and provisions were 
attached to the expedition in Mombasa, and Roosevelt's famous Safari, 
or hunting party, was ready to start out for the African jungles. 

Roosevelt's ammunition in his afkican hunt. 

Roosevelt inaugurated a novelty in big game hunting when he left 
Mombasa in pursuit of elephant and rhinoceros, armed with an Ameri- 
can repeating rifle of far lighter bore than the weapons with whicli 



62 



FROM MOMBASA TO THE WILDERNESS. 



British sportsmen pursue the same animals, although the rhino is con- 
sidered about as dangerous game as can be found on the Dark Conti- 
nent, due to his habit of blindly charging at top speed any object he 
deems hostile. The former President will use a rifle of only 405 caliber 
in the chase. 




From the Miimespolis JoumaJ. 



THB TEDDT BEAB IN AFRICA. 



FROM MOMBASA TO THE WILDERNESS. 63 

This rifle is better known by the American term of ' ' forty ' ' caliber, 
and it would have been considered little short of suicide fifteen years 
ago to attempt the hunting of such big game with such a caliber. Im- 
provements in high pressure, smokeless powder and the development 
of the steel-jacketed bullet have increased the efficiency of the arm 
many times since then, however. The steel bullet was intended for the 
African buffalo, which is a far more dangerous customer than his 
American namesake used to be. 

This same gun with soft-pointed bullets may be used on such game 
as lions. It has teriffic "smashing" power, as it has tremendous veloc- 
ity, and the bullet spreads or mushrooms on impact, thus tearing a 
hole through soft tissue and the lighter bones through which the hand 
could be thrust. To penetrate the tough hide of a rhino, however, the 
steel bullet was used. 

For lighter game such as the African species of deer, and for long 
range shooting Roosevelt carried two 303 caliber repeaters, popularly 
known as "thirties." 

For feathered game he had two twelve gauge repeating shotguns 
and two twenty-two caliber automatic rifles for small game and for 
amusement around camp. His shotgun ammunition was specially 
loaded for him and was in brass shells. The wads had been carefully 
waterproofed and instead of the shell being merely crimped over the 
wad at the end, it had been cut into small flanges and bent over. To 
prevent swelling in the moist climate, which might affect paper shells, 
the wad had been covered with wax. 

HEARTY WELCOME FOB CUB EX-PRESIDENT. 

A guard of honor, comprised of marines and blue jackets from the 
Pandora, was at the railroad station when the Rooseve't party arrived 
at Mombasa and was inspected by Roosevelt. A number of officials and 
civilians also were present, and the station building was decorated with 
flags. Roosevelt passed the morning at government house, where he 
was the guest of Mr. Jackson. Kermit and other members of the party 
occupied the time up to the departure of the train in driving about the 
city. 



U FROM MOMBASA TO THE WILDERNESS. 

From Mombasa Roosevelt dispatched a cablegram to tlie Kaiser ex- 
pressing his appreciation of his treatment on board the German 
steamer Admiral and admiration of the astounding growth of German 
colonization in Africa. At a dinner party given in his honor by mem- 
bers of the Mombasa Club Governor Jackson read the following tele- 
gram to Eoosevelt from King Edward : 

"I bid you a hearty welcome to British East Africa and I trust that 
you will have a pleasant time and meet svith every success." 

Continuing Governor Jackson said Mr. Eooseve'.t had left the "Big 
Stick" at home, and, after seven strenuous years as President of the 
United States had come out to Africa to make use of the rifle. He' 
promised the noted visitor an immense variety of game and good sport. 

When Eoosevelt arose to reply he was enthusiastically received 
with full highland musical honors. He began with a tribute to the 
British people for their energy and genius in civilizing the uncivilized 
places of the earth. He said he was surj^rised at what he had heard of 
the progress of British East Africa, but he warned his hearers that 
they could not expect to achieve in a s-iort time what it had taken 
America several hundred years to accomplish. He then emphasized the 
necessity of leaving local questions to be solved by the authorities on 
the spot and commented on the fact that the people at home knew little 
of affairs abroad. In this connection he cited the United States and 
';he Philippine Islands. 

Mr. Eoosevelt expressed his great pleasure at the welcome given to 
him by the British cruiser Pandora, whose rails and masts were manned 
by cheering sailors when the Admiral came into the harbor. He said 
he believed in peace, but considered that strength meant peace and he 
hoped that all the great nations would provide themselves with this 
means to the end. In conclusion, Mr. Eooseve't referred brieflj^ to his 
future plans and gave some of his first impressions of the country. 

Before departing Eoosevelt telegi'aphed to King Edward, thanking 
him for the message of greeting read at the dinner. 




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FROM. MOMBASA TO THE WILDERNESS. 65 

OFF FROM MOMBASA FOR RANCH. 

Theodore Roosevelt and the members of his party left Mombasa 
at 2:30 P. M. April 22, on a special train for Kapiti Plains station, 
whence they were conveyed to the ranch of Sir Alfred Pease on the 
Athi river. Sir Alfred was already there, awaiting the coming of the 
guests. The party remained at the ranch for one week, making it the 
base for shooting expeditions and then moved on for Nairobi. Acting 
Governor Jackson, of the protectorate accompanied the party. 

The train ran upward and westward all day over ridge and valley 
and through broken ground, deep, rugged gorges and glades of palms 
and climbing plants. After Makindu station the train passed over 
immense green pastures, watered by streams wooded by dense shrub- 
bery and dark fir-looking trees. Looking out from the windows of his 
comfortable car, the American traveler could see a whole zoological 
garden of wild animals crowding the plains. Zebras, antelojaes and 
gazelles in herds of from 300 to 600 gaze in mute astonishment at the 
speeding train or scamper shyly away while t^e steam-whistle fills the 
wilderness with its chrill and awe-inspiring noise. With his field glass 
the ex-President could see at a distance long lines of black wildebeests 
or gnus, wild ostriches and many kinds of smaller game. 

The Kapiti Plains are entirely bare of trees and covered with short 
bushy grass, while the numerous ravines are filled with weeds, reed and 
thorn, with here and there a water pool— favorite haunts for lions and 
rhinoceros. A famous hunter. Colonel G. E. Smith, Chief of the Anglo- 
German Boundary Survey, who has spent almost half a lifetime in the 
wildest places in Eastern Africa, killed in these same places seventeen 
rhinos in one day. Here Sir Alfred Pease has built a new house for 
the reception of Eoosevelt. It is a genuine one-story African bunga- 
low of five rooms, located on the high south end of the Machakos range, 
nearly seven thousand feet above the level of the sea. From its broad 
veranda Eoosevelt will have a splendid view over the surrounding 
olive-clad hills and the endless Kapiti Plains to where, at a distance of 
120 miles, the gigantic Mount Kilimanjaro towers 20,000 feet above 
the horizon. 

Arrived at Simba station we are at "The Place of the Lions"; and 



66 FROM MOMBASA TO THE WILDERNESS. 

sometimes two or three or even half a dozen of these marauders are 
seen skulking across the plain, while smaller game is keeping at a re- 
spectful distance, or brooding in silence in the shoulder-high jungle. 
Farther away on the more remote plains, where the grass grows high 
from the fertile volcanic ground, we find the rhinoceros in his open 
pastures. 

A famous traveler who recently spent several weeks hunting m 
these regions describes his first encounter with one of these beasts as 
something overwhelmingly exciting and impressive. A black shadow 
in the middle of the sunlit plain this gigantic survivor from a past age 
was grazing calmly and leisurely, while the hoary domes of the sur- 
rounding mountain peaks formed a fitting background to the striking 
picture. The hunters walked up to the beast as near as possible, pro- 
tected by the shoulder of a hill, and the thud of the first bullet which 
struck his bony skull with an impact of a ton and a quarter piercing 
through hide, flesh and bone, re-echoed like distant thunder. The beast 
started, looked around, and then came bearing in upon the hunters in a 
clumsy trot like a great steam engine, indifferent to fear or pain. A few 
seconds more and he would have crushed us under his feet. As he was 
swerving to the right across our front we all fired a broadside into his 
huge body, and down he tumbled with a groan that shook the ground. 

It was while in Kapiti Plains that the news of the bitter attack on 
him for refusing to admit British reporters to his saf ai'i reached Roose- 
velt as told in another chapter. 

During his three weeks' stay in Kapiti Plains Roosevelt killed four 
lions, two rhinoceros, two giraffes, twe wildebeests and one Thompson 
gazelle. Kermit during the same time dispatched two lions, one cheetah, 
a species of leopard, one giraffe and one wildebeest. All the lions 
were killed in the Mau Hills, where the camp was pitched. Roosevelt's 
mighty gun brought three of them to earth, each on the first shot. Thus 
one of the former President's fondest ambitions has been realized, and 
he is proud, too, that the fourth of the jungle kings fell before the rifle 
of his son Kermit, who, however, took three shots to kill his quarry. 



FROM MOMBASA TO THE WILDERNESS. 67 

JOY IN FIRST LION HUNT. 

Both father and son were jubilant. It was their first lion hunt and 
so magnificent a kill was far beyond their expectations, but lions had 
been plentiful in the hills for the last month, and the English hunter, 
F. C. Selous, had been out for several days laying plans for their extinc- 
tion. How well he succeeded can be seen from the results of the chase. 

Mr. Selous accompanied the former President, who also was attended 
by the usual retinue of beaters. As a rule the beaters go into the jungle 
with considerable trepidation, but as Mr Roosevelt's reputation as a 
hunter had reached there long before he arrived in person the beaters 
on this occasion were exceptionally enthusiastic. They seemed ever 
eager to play a part in the first hunt of the distinguished American. 

The caravan started early Thursday morning from the ranch of Sir 
Alfred Pease on the Athi Eiver and proceeded slowly to the Mau Hills. 
This range is open for wide areas, but in places is covered with dense 
growths, where game is plentiful. 

The first night in camp was without especial incident, no attempt 
being made to go after lions, although their call was heard now and 
then during the night, but at dawn the camp was astir and the drive 
speedily organized. 

TEN KINDS OF GAME BAGGED. 

The native beaters set out in all directions under the instruction of 
the "head man," armed with all sorts of noisemaking devices, which 
could not but arouse any game within earshot. Some of the beats 
proved blanks, but by nightfall no less than ten kinds of game had been 
bagged. 

Kermit during the greater part of the day did more effective work 
with his camera than he did with his gun, he and the other members of 
the party allowing Mr. Eoosevelt the much prized shots. 

Details of the actual shooting were not brought down to Nairobi at 
once from the camp, but it was declared that in each case a single bullet 
from the ex-President's rifle sufficed to bring down his lion. From this 
it is regarded that Mr. Roosevelt is living up to the reputation which he 
has gained in Africa of being a crack shot. All the lions were of normal 



68 FROM MOMBASA TO THE WILDERNESS. 

size, and after the natives had dragged them together in the grass they 
executed the usual dances around the trophies. 

In the beginning of our first chapter you find a detailed account of 
this lion hunt. 

While the Roosevelt expedition was in camp on the ranch of Sir 
Alfred Pease, at a point near Machakos, some cases of smallpox were 
discovered among the natives. All the members of the party were 
well. May 4 Eoosevelt bagged his fifth lion. His host, Sir Alfred 
Pease, made an effective sketch of him shooting his first lion over the 
shoulder of a native gun bearer at a distance of sixty yards. There was 
a perfect pest of ticks at Kapiti Plains. While all the members of the 
expedition were bitten, none showed any signs of the dreaded fever. 
Eoosevelt was boyishly exhuberaut over the result of his lion hunt. 
The j)arty's bag for the first six days of real hunting was twenty-seven 
head of game, representing ten species. 

The dreaded fever, better known as the sleeping sickness is the 
scourge of Africa, and medical science has not yet succeeded in finding 
an effective remedy for its poisonous ravages. It is known to have its 
origin in the bite of a venemous insect, the tsetse fly, and its name is 
derived from a curious resemblance to sleep, which characterizes the 
last stages of the disease. The actual sting of the insect is not poison- 
ous but serves as an agent depositing a death-carrying parasite. The 
victim first becomes extremely excitable and nervous, then lapses into a 
doze at certain intervals, the attacks becoming more and more violent. 
At last the glands all over the body begin to swell and the pitiable 
sufferer sinks into a lethargy, from which he never awakes. The 
patient may sleep for a year or two— and there is no relief but death. 
Two hundred thousand natives are known to have died from the disease 
and at present about a quarter of a hundred thousand are affected. 

KERMIT LOST IN NIGHT. 

One day when out on a hunting expedition Kermit lost 
his way from his father's camp near Machakos and passed an entire 
night alone on horseback, riding through a region unknown to him. 
Finally he turned up at Kiu, a station on the railway forty miles below 



FROM MOMBASA TO THE WILDERNESS. 69 

Nairobi and lliirty or forty miles southeast of Machakos. He had been 
following an old cart road from Machakos to Kiu, where the country 
was sparsely inhabited by natives of the Wakamba tribe, a peaceful 
people engaged chiefly in agriculture. 

From Kapiti our hunters moved next to the JaJa ranch as the 
guests of an American, William McMillan, and from there Eoosevelt 
undertook several hunting expeditions. He went out one day and 
bagged a female rhinoceros. The tirst shot wounded her in the shoulder 
and the animal fled to the bushes. Roosevelt followed on horseback and 
six more shots were required to bring her down. The head and skin 
weighed 532 pounds. He also the same day added a hippopotamus to 
his big game bag. The animal was killed a short distance from the Jaja 
ranch. 

Speeding over the rolling and almost seamless surface of the Athi 
river district the train took our hunters in a few hours to Nairobi, the 
headquarters of the Uganda Eailroad, and also a military depot and 
political centre. The city is well supplied with telgraph and telephone 
connections, its streets glitter with electric lights and automobiles run 
in every direction. It also is the headquarters for hunting expeditions 
and caravan parties, which arrive and depart daily, while parties loaded 
with trophies of the chase, and European and Hindu merchants are 
conspicuous everywhere. 

The American hunting expedition, of which Roosevelt is the head, 
selected Nairobi for its headquarters and from there made trips all over 
that part of the continent, and here most of the hunting and collecting 
was done. Space does not permit us to relate all the adventures of our 
ex-President. Neither would it interest our readers for it would simply 
be a repetition of what we have already told. August 23 Roosevelt killed 
his first elephant— and he did it all by himself too. The animal was a 
bull of moderate proportions as elephants go, and the skin was taken 
care of by the skilled taxidermists who follow the expedition. 



70 



FROM MOMBASA TO THE WILDERNESS. 




CHAPTER III. 

LIFE OF THEODORE ROOSEVELT. 

His Ancestors and Boyhood Days — College Studies — His Brilliant Political Career — On a 
Western Ranch — The Rough Rider — Stories and Anecdotes. 

THEODORE ROOSEVELT, twenty-sixth President of the United 
States, was born in New York City, October 27, 1858; son of 
Theodore (1831-78) and Martha (Bulloch) Roosevelt, grandson 
of Cornelius Van Schaack and Margaret (Barnhill) Roosevelt, great- 
grandson of James (or Jacobus) John and Mary (Van Schaack) Roose- 
velt, and is descended in a direct line from Claes Martensoon and 
Jannetje (Thomas) Van Eosevelt, who came to New Amsterdam from 
Holland about 1651. 

He attended for a short time the McMullen School, New York City, 
but was so frail in health that he was unable to continue, and was then 
placed under private instructors at his home. He was tutored for col- 
lege by Mr. Cutler, subsequently the founder of the Cutler School, and 
was graduated from Harvard in 1880. 

Was married September 23, 1880, to Alice, daughter of Geoi'ge Cabot 
and Caroline (Haskell) Lee of Boston, Mass. She died in 1883, leaving 
one daughter, Alice Lee. 

He became a student in the New York law school ; was a Republi- 
can member of the New York assembly 1882, 1883 and 1884; was candi- 
date of his party for speaker of the assembly in 1884 ; chairman of the 
committee on cities and of a special committee knpwn as the Roosevelt 
Investigating Committee. As a supporter of the civil service reform, 
he introduced bills which became laws affecting the government of New 
York City, and especially the patronage exercised by the sheriff, county 
clerk and register, which gTeatly reformed the conduct of their respect- 
ive offices. 

He was a delegate to the Republican State Convention of 1884 ; dele- 

71 



72 



LIFE OF THEODORE ROOSEVELT. 



gate-at-large from New York and chairman of the New York delegation 
to the Republican National Convention that met at Cliicago, June 3, 
1884 ; purchased the Elkhorn and the Chimney Butte ranches at Medora 
on the Little Missouri Eiver in North Dakota, where he lived, 1884-86. 
He was a member of the New York State Militia, 1884-88, serving in 




From the Minneapolis Journal 



"I FOOLED TOU THIS TIME" — TEDDY. 



LIFE OF THEODORE ROOSEVELT. 73 

the Eighth Regiment, N. G. S. N. Y., as lieutenant, and for three years 
as captain. 

He was married secondly, December 2, 1886, to Edith Kermit, 
daughter of Charles and Gertrude Elizabeth (Tyler) Carow of New 
York City. 

He was the unsuccessful Republican candidate for mayor of New York 
City in 1886, when Abram S. Hewitt was elected; was in May, 1889, 
appointed on the U. S. Civil Service Commission in Washington, D. C, 
by President Harrison, and served as president of the commission. 
He was continued in office by President Cleveland, but resigned in May, 
1895, to accept the position of police commissioner of New York City 
in the administration of Mayor Strong, and he was president of the 
bi-partisan board, 1895-97. 

He was appointed assistant secretary of the U. S. Navy in April, 
1897, by President McKinley, and on the declaration of the war with 
Spain in April, 1898, he resigned to recruit the first U. S. V. Cavalry, 
a regiment of "Rough Riders" made up mostly of his acquaintances 
on the Western plains, including cowboys and miners, with some mem- 
bers of the college athletic clubs of New York and Boston— men who 
could ride, shoot and live in the open. He was commissioned lieutenant- 
colonel. May 6, 1898, and was promoted to the rank of colonel after the 
battle of La Quassina, San Juan, when Col. Leonard Wood was pro- 
moted to brigadier-general and assigned to the governorship of 
Santiago. 

^Vhen the war closed, the Republican party of his native State nomi- 
nated him their candidate for governor, and he was elected over Van 
Wyck, Democrat, Kline, Prohibitionist, Hanford, Social Labor, and 
Bacon, Citizens' ticket, by a plurality of 17,786 votes in a total vote of 
1,343,968. He served as governor of New York, 1899-1900. His admin- 
istration as governor was conspicuous in his thorough work in reform- 
ing the canal boards ; instituting an improved system of civil service, 
including the adoption of the merit system in county offices, and in 
calling an extra session of the legislature to secure the passage of a 
bill he had recommended at the general session, taking as real estate 
the value of railroads and other franchises to use public streets, in spite 
of the protests of corporations and Republican leaders. 



74 LIFE OF THEODORE ROOSEVELT. 

He was nominated Vice-President of the United States by the Re- 
publican National Convention that met at Philadelphia, June, 1900, 
where he was forced by the demands of the Western delegates, to accept 
the nomination, with "William McKinley for President, and he was 
elected November 6, 1900. He was sworn into office as the twenty-sixth 
President of the United States, September 14, 1901, by reason of the 
assassination of President McKinley; Eoosevelt being, at the time, less 
than forty-three years old, the youngest man in the history of the United 
States to have attained the chief magistracy of the government. He 
served to the end of the presidential term, which expired March 4, 1905. 

At the following election he was re-e!ected with the greatest ma- 
jority any presidential candidate had attained so far, and his adminis- 
tration during the four years of his last term was characterized by the 
same honesty, fearlessness and diplomacy, which had already made 
him so dear to the American people. To the last he was faithful to the 
trust imposed upon him and when he retired to private life the general 
verdict of friend and foe was that he had lived up to his motto and 
given everybody a square deal. 




CHAPTER IV. 

STORIES AND ANECDOTES ABOUT ROOSEVELT. 

How He Looked when a Boy — Was a Born Leader — The Old Dutch Reformed Church — How 
He Strengthened His Delicate Frame — First Love. 



THEODORE EOOSEVELT was born in that old, aristocratic por- 
tion of New York known as Gramercy Park. The family resi- 
dence was in East Twentieth Street, just beyond Fifth Avenue, 
the number being 28. Many of the people in that neighborhood remember 
most vividly the childhood days of "Little Teddy." One of the neigh- 
bors, in speaking of his infancy and boyhood days, has said : 

"As a young boy he was thin-shanked, pale and delicate, giving little 
promise of the amazing vigor of his late life. To avoid the rough, 
treatment of the public school, he was tutored at home, also attended 
a private school for a time— Cutler's, one of the most famous of its day. 
Most of his summers, and in fact two-thirds of the year, he spent at the 
Roosevelt farm near Oyster Bay, then almost as distant in time from 
New York as the Adirondacks now are. 

"For many years he was slow to learn and not strong enough to 
join in the play of other boys ; but as he grew older he saw that if he 
ever amounted to anything he must acquire vigor of body. With char- 
acteristic energy he set about developing himself. 

"He swam, he rowed, he ran, he tramped the hills back of the Bay, 
for pastimes, studying and cataloguing the birds native to his neighbor- 
hood, and thus he laid the foundation of that incomparable physical 
vigor from which rose his future prowess as a ranchman and hunter." 

President Roosevelt's father was wise enough to patronize the pub- 
lic schools by sending his children through them. Here they learned 
the American lesson of mixing with their neighbors' children and of 
taking the place their abilities entitled them to in the classes. 

The children were given the best educational advantages to be ob- 

75 



76 STORIES AND ANECDOTES ABOUT ROOSEVELT. 

tained. They attended private institutions, as did most of the children 
whose parents were wealthy and belonged to the same set. The family 
lived right in an atmosphere of the old Dutch stock, which had advanced 
to a high premium years before Theodore was born. The spirit of his 
family, however, was for sterling quality, merit and high character in 
their children rather than an exclusiveness from those around them 
who happened to be less fortunate. They were intent upon preserving 
close and intimate relations with the world as they found it. This is 
certainly the true American spirit and is reflected in our President 
to-day in the highest possible degree. Theodore Roosevelt is a striking 
illustration of what early training will do for a man. 

A SYSTEMATIC CHURCH-GOEB. 

The Roosevelts were strict church people. They belonged to the 
Dutch Eeformed Church. All of the children were devoted to their 
church and attended it and worked with it with all their heart and soul. 
The church-going of the Roosevelts was not a mere perfunctory matter. 
The sermons that young Theodore listened to, because of their length, 
would try the patience of too many of our boys in this day. Thei-e was 
too masterful a hand and heart back of Theodore Roosevelt's church- 
going to permit or desire his escaping any of the services. Through all 
his busy life, Mr. Roosevelt has followed closely the habits of church- 
going that he formed in his childhood and boyhood days. He still re- 
tains the traditions of his ancestors in their idea regarding the Sabbath 
and religious services for the whole family. 

OVEECAME THE IMPEDIMENT OF A DELICATE FRAME. 

The high straight-backed seats of his old church in New York are 
something of a memory to him, for new and more modern pews have 
taken their place. But the relation which he began with that old family 
church continues to this day. 

The fact of Theodore's delicate physique was a matter of deep con- 
cern for his parents. He possessed the robust spirit of his ancestors 
and with it presented a more volatile quality than is usually found in 
the Hollander with his phlegmatic temperament. Young Theodore had 



STORIES AND ANECDOTES ABOUT ROOSEVELT. 77 

the energy and ambition, but did not possess tlie physical force to back up 
his desires and his purposes. His lack of muscular powers caused him 
to sutfer throughout his boyhood days, in comparison with his 'school- 
mates and comioanions. 

With the will power that has carried him over so many obstacles, 
Theodore resolved to overcome his impediment of a delicate frame. He 
turned his effort and time to developing the strength which Nature had 
denied him and which he so much desired. He went about this task 
systematically. He was out of doors in the open air continually. He 
exercised by means of walking and horseback riding, and other physical 
exercises. We have in this robust man to-day an example of what deter- 
mination and a systematic course of physical culture will do for a deli- 
cate young person. 

At school Theodore Roosevelt was from the first a good student and 
a model scholar. We have read of many great men who were dullards 
at school. It is recorded that General Grant, who graduated in the class 
of '44, was almost at its foot, and that Walter Scott, the great novelist, 
was most stupid at school. Neither could apply himself to a book. They 
developed great talent, however, later in life. They began to be great 
men at about the age that Theodore Roosevelt was when he entered the 
White House as the nation's Chief Executive. Theodore Roosevelt, 
however, was a bookworm from his earliest days, and his devotion to 
study was inspiring for his fellow students. 

A LOVE STORY, 

An interesting romance is told of Theodore's early life. He became 
acquainted with Edith Carow, a girl of his own age. She was a fellow 
student at school and belonged to the same social set. A most charming 
romance continued between the two from the time they were mere chil- 
dren until he entered upon college life at Harvard. They had been 
constantly together during their earlier school days, and in those old 
days they had spent many hours together over their games in Union 
Park. Her home was in Fourteenth Street, very near Union Square. 
This was in a very aristocratic part of the city in those days, a strictly 
residential district, and the great business blocks that now surround 
Union Square had not begun to appear in that day. 



78 STORISS AND ANECDOTES ABOUT ROOSEVELT. 

Young Theodore and Edith met at the same birthday parties and 
went over their lessons together in the same school. This was suiScient 
reason for their intimacy. Later, Edith was placed in a fashionable 
boarding school. Miss Comstock's School, where Edith attended, had 
on its roll many young ladies at that time who were great friends of 
Edith's, and to this day vividly recall her romance with young Theo- 
dore. It is unnecessary to say that they all enjoy relating it. 

Edith's father was a business man, and her mother was, by birth. 
Miss Gertrude Tyler of Connecticut. Her father was General Tyler. 
Her family was one of wealth and social position. Theodore occu_pied 
a similar position in society, and his father was a lawyer and judge and 
had been in turn an alderman, a member of the Legislature at Albany, 
and a representative in Congress. 

SHE LIKED TEDDY ROOSEVELT. 

Edith Kermit Carow has said, in the happy, established days since 
her marriage, that she had ' ' liked Teddy Roosevelt in those distant times 
because he could do so much more than she could." And yet he was 
a delicate stripling of a boy, while she was possessed of all the vigor of 
a healthy girlhood. But Theodore Eoosevelt had strong will power, de- 
termination, independence and sincerity, and this was enough for Edith. 

Theodore's brother testifies to the fact that Theodore never permitted 
himself nor Edith to be imposed upon. He was ready to champion her 
cause at all times, and this meant everything to Edith. Later in life 
Theodore discovered more than a friend of his childhood days in the girl 
companion of his leisure hours. He had found one who sympathized with 
him and his work. Moreover, she had faith in him and encouraged him. 
When mature years came, after sorrow had visited him, he found in her 
the one to share his home, to increase his fortune, and to exalt and make 
sacred his success. 

LAYING THE FOtlNDATION. 

Theodore, after a thorough preparation, entered Harvard University, 
determined to take the full college course. Here he spent four years. 
He proved at Harvard that he was well equipped for the work 
before him. He had taken the greatest delight in history and civil gov- 



STORIES AND ANECDOTES ABOUT ROOSEVELT. 79 

ernment as studies. Mathematics was something of a task, but he had 
made himself master of his inclinations and desires. This explains why 
he could apply himself to mathematics with success. He was imagina- 
tive, and mathematics in any of the branches never was attractive to an 
imaginative man. He loved books of adventure. He was thoroughly 
familiar with the story of his own country. He was also well informed 
regarding modern Europe. He had been an incessant reader and student 
of history. This was easy for him, but he made up his mind to devote 
himself to studies less attractive for him. He realized that this was 
necessary to give him a well-rounded and perfectly-balanced education. 
The mental training he secured in following out his determination must 
be in large part responsible for the close-knit intellectual fiber which his 
manhood has revealed. It was the substantial structure upon which his 
later fancy could build, just as his acquired physical strength formed a 
magazine from which his tireless energy might draw without fear of 
exhausting it. 

During the last McKinley campaigTi it was said that "Theodore 
Roosevelt was born with a gold spoon in his mouth." But the charge is 
unfair. He was an ordinary boy as to mental attainments, and consid- 
erably under the average in physical strength. Whatever success has 
come to him is his from an inherent will that would not brook defeat in 
any line rather than from peculiar advantages which he inherited. 

He was born with many social advantages and with wealth. But 
these have failed to bring success to thousands of men. We ourselves 
can cite instances where wealth and social position have more often 
been a stumbling-block to young men rather than a help in gaining for 
them success and position. Certainly Theodore Eoosevelt is one of the 
most striking examples in America of a yoimg man who has advanced 
simply because of his own merit. 

He is a type of American manhood that of which we are all proud. 

The following characteristic story from his boyhood is told by a close 
friend of the Roosevelt family: 

At the age of eleven years, young Roosevelt made a voyage across 
the Atlantic with his father. A boyhood friend, by name George Crom- 
well, tells several amusing incidents of the European voyage. It was a 



80 STORIES AND ANECDOTES ABOUT ROOSEVELT. 

great event in 1869 to cross the Atlantic, particularly for youngsters, 
all of them under eleven years of age. 

"As I remember Theodore," recalls Mr. Cromwell, "he was a tall, 
thin lad, with bright eyes and legs like pipe-stems. 

"One of the first things I remember about him on that voyage was, 
that after the ship had got out of sight of land he remarked, half to him- 
self, as he glanced at the water, *I guess there ought to be a good many 
fish here. ' Then an idea suddenly struck him, and turnig to me he said : 
' George, go get me a small rope from Somewhere, and we '11 play a fishing 
game.' I don't know why I went at once in search of that line, without 
asking why he didn't go himself; but I went, and it never occurred to me 
to put the question. He had told me to go, and in such a detennined way 
that it settled the matter. 

A MASTERLY LEADER FROM BOYHOOD. 

"Even then he was a leader— a masterful, commanding little fellow— 
who seemed to have a peculiar quality of his own of making his playmates 
obey him, not at all because we were afraid, but because we wanted to, 
and somehow felt sui e we would have a good time and get lots of fun if we 
did as he said. 

' ' Well, I went af tvir the line and brought it to him. While I was gone 
on the errand he had thought out all the details of the fishing game, and 
had x?limbed on top of a coiled cable; for, of course, he was to be the 
fisherman. 

" 'Now,' he said, as I handed him the line, 'all you fellows lie down 
flat on the deck here, and make believe to swim around like fishes. I'll 
throw one end of the line down to you, and the first fellow that catches 
hold of it is a fish that has bit my hook. He must just pull as hard as he 
can, and if he pulls me down off this coil of rope, why then he will be the 
fisherman and I will be a fish. But if he lets go, or if I pull him up here 
off the deck, why I will still be the fisherman. The game is to see how 
many fish each of us can land up here. The one who catches the most 
fish wins.' " 

"The rest of us lay down flat on our stomachs," Mr. Cromwell says, 
in continuation of his narrative, "and made believe to swim; and, Theo- 




Copyright 1909, by Underwood & Underwood, N. Y. 

DRAGGED FROM VICTOBIA NYANZA LAKE BY 120 MEN AND WOMEN. 

This huge Hippopotamus which weighed over two tons was dragged ashore with six 
bullets in its massive head. Three hundred natives gathered around and fell upon it like 
Vuiture.s cutting and slashing the carcass. Only men eat Hippopotamus meat, the women 
being afraid to eat it for fear of being childless. 




Photograph Underwood & Underwood, N. T. 

THEY ABE TOO EAGEB FOB THE MEAT TO NOTICE THE CAMEBA. 

The Eland is one of the rarer types of Antelope and its meat is excellent eating. 




AFRICAN NATIVES DEFYING THE LIGHTNING. 

Among the curious superstitions of African natives are that of making rain, and the 
one depicted in this scene of defying the lightning. 



STORIES AND ANECDOTES ABOUT ROOSEVELT. 81 

dore, standing above us on the coiled cable, threw down one end of his 
line— a thin but strong rope. If I remember correctly my brother was 
the first fish to grasp the line— and then commenced a mighty struggle. It 
seemed to be much easier for the fish to pull the fisherman down than for 
the fisherman to haul up the dead weight of a pretty heavy boy lying flat 
on the deck below him— and I tell you it was a pretty hard struggle. My 
brother held onto the line with both hands and wrapped his leg_s around it, 
grapevine fashion. Theodore braced his feet on the coiled cable, stiffened 
his back, shut his teeth hard, and wound his end of the line around his 
waist. At first he tried by sheer muscle to pull the fish up— but he soon 
found it was hard work to lift up a boy about as heavy as himself. 

THE FISH CAUGHT BY STEATEGY. 

"Then another bright idea struck him. He pulled less and less, and 
at last ceased trying to pull at all. Of course the fish thought the fisherman 
was tired out, and he commenced to pull, hoping to get Theodore down 
on deck. He didn't succeed at first, and pulled all the harder. He rolled 
over on his back, then on his side, then sat up, all the time pulling and 
twisting and yanking at the line in every possible way; and that was 
just what Theodore hoped the fish would do. You see, all this time, while 
my brother was using his strength, Theodore simply stood still, braced 
like steel, and let him tire himself out. 

"Before very long the fish was so out of breath that he couldn't pull 
any longer. Besides, the thin rope had cut his hands and made them 
sore. Then the fisherman commenced slowly and steadily to pull on the 
line, and in a very few minutes he had my brother hauled up alongside 
of him on the coil of cable." 

The elder Eoosevelt was a firm believer in hard work, and made this a 
part of the science he knew so well— the science of bringing up a boy. 
Although a man of wealth and position he taught his children— the four 
of them, two boys and two girls— the virtue of labor, and pointed with 
the finger of scorn to the despicable thing called man who lived in idle- 
ness. With such teachings at home, it is no wonder that Theodore was 
moved to declare : 

"I was determined as a boy to make a man of myself." 

t 



82 



STORIES AND ANECDOTES ABOUT ROOSEVELT. 




mm 



•nUFFKS GAXLOPHfG OFF WITH HUNTBES IN HOT PUESXJITi 



CHAPTER V. 

BIG GAME WHICH ROOSEVELT HUNTED IN BRITISH EAST 

AFRICA. 

The Lion and Other Beasts of Prey — The Elephant and Other Huge Thick-Skinned Anin^.Is — 
The Rhinoceros and Hippopotamus — The Royal Game — The Buffalo, the Giraffe, the 
Camel and the African Antelope — Monkeys, Crocodiles, Birds, Snakes and Other Venomous 
Reptiles. 

FOREMOST among the wild beasts of the African wilderness stands 
the lion, the King of the forests and jungles. He is exquisitely 
formed by nature for the predatory habits which he is destined to 
pursue. Though considerably under four feet in height,. he is enabled, 
by means of the tremendous machinery wherewith nature has gifted him, 
to dash to the grave and overcome almost every beast of the forest, no 
matter how superior to him in weight and stature. The powerful buffalo 
and the gigantic elephant not excepted. 

The full-gi'own male lion is adorned with a rant and shaggy mane 
almost reaching to the ground and of a dark or golden yellow color. The 
females have no mane, being covered with a glossy coat of tawny hair. 
The color of his fur makes it almost impossible to discover him in the 
dark, where his eyes, which glisten in the night like balls of fire, are 
almost the only signs of his stealthy and silent approach. His habits are 
nocturnal. During the day he lies resting in the thickets or in some inac- 
cessible cave, and not until the sun sets does he start out on his search 
for prey. It is then his loud, deep-toned, solemn roars, r "ipeated five of six 
times in quick succession, and increasing in loudness to the third or 
fourth, when it dies away in a low, deep moaning, or in five or six muflBed 
sounds resembling a distant thunder, startles the forest and warns its 
denizens of the approaching danger. 

Next to the lion the leopard or panther and the hunting leopard is 
the most formidable beast of prey in the Dark Continent. His spotted 

Si 



84 



BIG CAME WHICH ROOSEVELT HUNTED. 



coat, playful manners and wild, graceful springs, as he is romping around 
and sporting with his cubs, or even with lions, reminds one of his feline 
relation, our domestic cat. He is, however, much larger, measuring in 
length nearly five feet, not inclusive of three feet of tail. 

In its habits it differs essentially from the lion, being thoroughly at 
home in trees, running up a straight-stemmed and smooth-barked trunk 




AJFBICAN PANTHEBS. 



with the speed and agility of a monkey. Moreover the leopard is a much 
more active animal than the lion, frequently taking tremendous leaps 
and springs. 

From their habit of lurking in the vicinity of the habitations of man, 
to prey upon cattle, ponies, donkeys, sheep, goats and dogs, leopards 
are frequently brought into collision with the natives, and a leopard being 
mobbed in a thicket, from which he will charge several times, and bite 
and claw half a dozen, before he is despatched or makes his escape, is 



BIG GAME WHICH ROOSEVELT HUNTED. 35 

no uncommon occurrence in Africa. It is but seldom that the leopard 
takes to man-eating, though in some instances it has occurred. His dis- 
tribution is more extensive than that of the lion, embracing, besides Af- 
rica, nearly the whole of Asia, from Persia to Japan, but not extending 
as far north as Siberia. 

Notwithstanding his ferocious nature the leoiDard has often been 
tamed, and, indeed, almost domesticated, being permitted to range 
the house at will, greatly to the consternation of strange visitors. This 
complete state of docility can, however, only take place in an animal which 
has either been born in captivity, or taken at so early an age that its 
savage properties have never had time to expand. Even in this case the 
disposition of the creature must be naturally good, or it remains proof 
against kindness and attention, never losing a surliness of temper that 
makes its liberation too perilous an experiment. 

If the lion is majestic and the leopard ferocious and bloodthirstj'-, 
the African hyena is, by common consent of hunters, travelers and nat- 
uralists, classed as the most skulking, cowardly, cruel and treacherous of 
all beasts of prey, and it would be difficult to find even one who would 
defend it. 

The hyena is remarkable for its predatory, ferocious and cowardly 
habits. The African spotted hyena is much larger and more powerful 
than the striped and shaggy, rough-coated one, which is found in Syria 
and Palestine, but the habits of all are very similar. The hyenas, al- 
though very repulsive in appearance, are yet very useful, as they prowl 
in search of dead animals, especially of the larger kinds, and will devour 
them even when putrid, so that they act the same part among beasts that 
the vultures do among birds. They not unfrequently dig up recently 
interred corpses and voraciously devour all carcasses they can find. 
Their jaws and teeth are exceedingly powerful, as they can crush the 
thigh-bone of an ox with apparently little effort. 

The favorite haunts of the hyena are holes and caves in the rocks or 
a hole dug by itself on the side of a hill or ravine. The call of the hyena 
is a very disagreeable, unearthly cry, and dogs are often tempted out 
by it when near, and fall a victim to the stealthy marauder. On one oc- 
casion a small dog belonging to a farmer was taken off by a hyena very 



86 



BIG GAME WHICH ROOSEVELT HUNTED. 



early in the morning. The den of this beast was known to be not far off 
in some sandstone cliffs, and some natives went after it, entered the cave, 
killed the hyena, and returned the dog alive, with but little damage done 
to it. A hyena, though it does not appear to move very fast, goes over 
rough ground in a wonderful manner, and it takes a good long run to 







HUNTING THE BUFFALO IN AFRICA. 



overtake it on horseback, unless in most favorable ground. A stray hyena 
is now and then met with by a party of sportsmen, followed and speared; 
but sometimes not till after a run of three or four miles, if the ground is 
broken by ravines. It is a cowardly animal, and shows but little fight 
when brought to bay. The young are very tamable and show great signs 
of attachment to their owner, in spite of all that has been written about 
the untamable ferocity of the hyena. 

The striped hyena's food is mainly carrion or carcasses killed by 
other animals ; and in inhabited districts the animal is much dreaded on 
account of its grave-robbing propensities. Portions of such carcasses as 



BIG GAME WHICH ROO'SEVELT HUNTED. 



87 



it finds are eaten on the spot, while other parts are dragged off to its den, 
the situation of which is generally indicated by the fragments of bones 
around the entrance. These hyenas will also feast on skeletons that 
have been picked down to the bone by jackals and vultures ; the bone- 




THE SACRED BABOON. 



cracking power of the hyena's jaws rendering such relics acceptable, if 
not favorite, food. 

The striped hyena— probably on account of its "body-snatching" pro- 
pensities—is cordially detested by the natives of all the countries it 
inhabits. When a hyena is killed, the body is treated with every mark of 
indignity, and finally burnt. On one occasion, says a traveler, I came 
across a party of natives cruelly ill-treating a nearly full-grown hyena, 



88 BIG GAME WHICH ROOSEVELT HUNTED. 

■which had been rendered helpless by its jaws being muzzled and its feet 
broken. I soon ended the sufferings of the poor brute by a bullet. 

Although, owing to their nocturnal habits, hyenas are seldom seen, 
yet in some parts of Africa, from the multitude of their tracks, they must 
be very common. 

The African spotted hyena is much larger and more powerful than 
the striped species. It inhabits the greater part of Africa at the present 
day. Formerly the geographical range of this hyena was far more exten- 
sive than it is at present, as is proved by the vast quantities of its remains 
found in the caves of various parts of Europe, from Gibraltar in the 
south, to Yorkshire in the north. It was formerly considered, indeed, 
that the so-called "cave-hyena" indicated a distinct species from the 
living one ; but zoologists are now generally in accord in regarding the 
two as specifically identical, although the fossil European hyenas were 
generally of larger dimensions than the existing African form. 

Other wild animals of the African jungles, many of whom have 
fallen for our ex-President's swift bullets, are the Black Rhinoceros, 
who from his dark hiding-places, tearing through whole caravans of 
tourists, in blind fury charges and slays his victims; then there is the 
hereditary foe of the lion, the Buffalo, the favored meat for the King 
of Beasts; the great dog killer, the Sable Antelope, who mercilessly 
drives his spear-like horns through the hunter's body; the Haartbeasts 
and Gnus, stronger and swifter than the horse ; and last, but not least, the 
huge elephant, whose gigantic tusks are one of the most valuable articles 
of export from Africa. 

No sooner were the skins of the animals properly prepared than 
they were sent in casks to the Smithsonian Institution in Washington, 
where the work of stuffing them was undertaken. The first consignment 
of boxes arrived Sept. 1. Scientists of the institution expressed them- 
selves as having never seen a more interesting and well preserved col- 
lection of mammals and birds. There were also valuable species of 
rats, rabbits, moles, mice and other small mammals. What the scientists 
considered a great prize was the warty rat. It is slightly larger than 
the ordinary rat and has two warts on its lower lip and has never before 
been seen in this country. 



CHAPTER VI. 
ROOSEVELT'S HUNTING GROUNDS. 

British East Africa — The Chicago of East Africa— Tropical Scenery—Primeval Forests, 
Rocky Mountains and Running Streams — Wonders of the Animal and Vegetable King- 
doms — Pheasants, Doves, Monkeys — Flowers in all the Colors of the Rainbow — Man's 
Cruelty Marring the Beauty of Nature. 

BRITISH East Africa, which was penetrated by Roosevelt on his 
famous hunting expedition, is located south of Egyptian Soudan, 
Abyssinia and Italian Somaliland, and north of Gei-man East 
Africa. It stretches as far west as to the Congo State and on the east is 
bordered by the Indian Ocean. The Equator passes right through it 




BHINOCEBOS BULI. 



90 



ROOSEVELT'S HUNTING GROUNDS. 



between Nairobi and Port Florence and it, therefore, has all the charac- 
teristics of the Tropics. 




KOOSEVELT HUNTINO GROUNDS. 



It is, however, not an entirely barbarian country. The British have 
opened up its vast resources to civilization by establishing a government, 
building cities, furthering trade and commerce and last, but not least, 
by the construction of the great Uganda Eailroad, which connects Mom- 



ROOSEVELT'S HUNTING GROUNDS. 91 

basa and the coast with Lake Victoria Nyanza, one of the largest inland 
lakes in the world. This road, which passes through one of the most won- 
derful regions and is 600 miles long, has cost thousands of lives and about 
$50,000,000, but this immense sacrifice seems small compared to the great 
benefits that have accrued from it to civilization. It has begun 
the transformation of Equatorial Africa from a wilderness into a Garden 
of Eden ; it has made a wonderful country and a land full of charming at- 
tractions for the painter and the artist accessible to the scientific explorer 
and to industry and commerce ; it has opened up the way for the Christian 
missionaries and prepared the way for the entrance of civilization 
into the interior of Africa, and last but not least, made it possible for our 
Teddy to reach his hunting grounds with full strength of body and keen- 
ness of mind to the strenuous work before him. It enables him to make 
a journey of about 600 miles, which by caravan could not be accomplished 
in less than three months' time and at the expenditure of a small for- 
tune in cash, in less than forty-eight hours at a cost of from six to fifty 
dollars, according to the class of accommodation. 

Through wilds, forests, craggy mountains and pestiferous jungles 
this gigantic work went on for six years. Neither poisonous insects, 
deadly disease, venomous reptiles, warlike native tribes, ferocious wild 
beasts, or the fearful ravages of the red hot blasts from the never-resting 
furnaces of a tropical climate, before which both imported and native 
laborers fell like soldiers swept away by the Gatling gun, could stop the 
work and when the line in 1903 was accomplished everyone felt that one 
of the most important milestones in the development of Equatorial East 
■/ ^'rica was reached. 

Famous travelers who have recently made trips along this road, give 
pictorial descriptions of the scenery, now so much more interesting 
to us as the theatre of our popular ex-President's latest achievements. 

The Uganda Railroad runs sharply upward and westward to the 
highlands of Nairobi through undulating ground covered with 
luxuriant tropical vegetation until 150 miles from the coast it reaches 
its extreme elevation of 8,500 feet above the level of the sea. Various 
and surprising is the panorama that passes before the traveler's eyes. 
Many colored birds and gorgeous butterflies flutter in the rich foliage 



92 



ROOSEVELT'S HUNTING GROUNDS. 



of the tropical trees or among the flowers, that glitter in all the colors of 
the rainbow. Deep ravines, filled by rushing streams and foaming cat- 
aracts open up below through glades of palms and vine-clad trees. 

Here and there along the route the traveler sees African plantations, 
with neat cottages and villages and other works of advancing civiliza- 
tion. The rubber, fibre and cotton raised on these productive farms will 
in the future supply the yet unmeasured demand of Europe and America 




CIBAFFES SEEN BY KOOSEVELT ALONG THE UGANDA RAILROAD. 



and become an inexhaustible source of wealth to this yet unbroken soil. 

About one hundred miles further west the train enters the barren 
waste known as the Taru desert. It is here where Roosevelt from his 
commodious palace cars saw the prowling hyena, or the lion and the 
leopard seeking their prey among the herds of gazelles and antelopes 
that still remind the traveler of animal life. 

As the train has been climbing higher and higher the country loses 
its tropical aspect. Instead of the impenetrable jungle luxuriant forests 



ROOSEVELT'S HUNTING GROUNDS. 93 

please the eye. the paim gives place to the olive, the dark fir to the 
mangoes, and endless fields of green grass watered by streams and 
broken by bold iiptowering bluffs and ridges. 

Upon reaching Voi, one of the many little stations the traveler meets 
every few miles along the road, our ex-President availed himself of the 
facilities the government had provided the tourists for seeing one of 
the most magnificent sights in the Dark Continent, the snow-clad, 
Kilimanjaro, whose shimmering summit shrouded in the blaze of clouds 
rises 19,700 feet above the level of the sea, and is known as the highest 
mountain peak in Africa. A good road leads to the very foot of the 
"Mountain of the Spirit Ajax," as it is called by the superstitious na- 
tives, but the climbing in a heat of over 100 degrees through thickets of 
bamboo and rocks is a feat that '""as only been accomplished two or three 
times, and is more dangerous than ^ ' -^asant. 

Along the railroad may be seen scattering villages of the generally 
agricultural, but sometimes dangerous Wangtka tribe, and also the 
Wakamba, the largest tribe of East Africa and the only one to hold its 
own against the war-like and hunting Masui. The naked natives around 
Victoria Nyanza are bronze models of physical perfection and moral 
and peaceable habits, while the Nandi tribe are known for stealing tele- 
graph wire for bracelets and earrings and railroad bolts for spear 
heads. The native Kingdom of Uganda is a well organized state under 
British protection. The country is fertile and abounds in cotton, cocoa, 
coffee, oranges, lemons, pineapples, and the people are eager for knowl- 
edge. From Naimbi to Florence the train passes through a region of 
farms and plantations, and then we enter upon the scenic section of the 
Uganda railway, which rises 2,000 feet, the first 24 miles pitching over 
cliffs, volcanic hills, craters, escarpments and abrupt land pitches. Lake 
Naivasha, with its many lovely islands and bright blossoms, hides under 
its blue waves a submerged crater. Thousands of water fowls cover its 
surface, while big game and great herds of sheep and goats surround its 
shores. In this vicinity is a breeding farm for zebras, where the govern- 
ment tries to solve the horse problem for Africa by producing a hybrid 
once. Near the charming salt lake of Nakura, you cross the Mou escarp- 
ment on twenty-seven huge viaducts built by American engineers. The 



94 ROOSEVELT'S HUNTING GROUNDS. 

last section of the railroad runs through a swampy but fertile country, 
and the approach to Port Florence, a transfer station on Lake Victoria 
Nyanza, is anything but inviting. Across the lake lies Entebbe, the 
British capital of the Uganda Protectorate. In this carefully planned 
city, charmingly located on shores of lake blazing with color and dotted 
with gemlike islands, Roosevelt and his party were splendidly enter- 
tained by Judge George Ennis and his lovely wife, who is a native of 
Chicago, and the only American in the city. 

Mrs. Ennis was formerly Miss Ethel Kirkland, daughter of Mrs. 
Joseph Kirkland of Eush street, Chicago. Her husband's (Judge En- 
nis) position is second only to that of the governor of Uganda, and 
Mrs. Ennis, who is the only American in the Colony, is regarded as the 
foremost hostess in Entebbe. All noted people who visit Central Africa 
enjoy the hospitality of the Ennis home, and among those who have 
stayed under its roof are the Duke d'Abruzzi, the famous Dr. Koch 
and others. 

The house or bungalow, where Roosevelt was received, is a rambling 
one, gray in color, with a slojDing roof of red corrugated iron. It is set 
in a large garden, sweet with frangipani, bright with crimson hibiscus 
and yellow accacia and numberless varieties of roses. The side ver- 
andas are covered with vines and the garden is fenced with plaited 
branches of the elephant plant, which shields it from curious persons 
passing on the red road beyond. The servants' quarters are apart from 
the house. 

This is the lovely picture that greeted Roosevelt when he reached 
Entebbe, 3,700 feet above the level of the sea, and when he looked out 
of his window he could see Lake Victoria Nyanza. 

Roosevelt's hostess holds a unique position in her adopted home. 
In the heart of Africa, she is surrounded by all the formality of high 
life in London. Judge Ennis has a retinue of native servants, of various 
tribes, quick to do the bidding of their young mistress. The only white 
one is the nurse for the small son and heir. 

After the strenuous time which Roosevelt had spent in and around 
Nairobi he and his son enjoyed immensely the social relaxation of En- 
tebbe and the comparative quiet of their surroundings. 



CHAPTER VII. 
ROOSEVELT'S LIFE IN THE WEST. 

Exciting Adventures — A Mistaken Ruffian — A Western Episode — The Pleasures of the 
Chase — Shoots His First Buffalo — Kills Two Deer at Four Hundred Yards — An Exciting 
Elk Hunt — Hunting Dangerous Game — Stands Off a Band of Indians — Tribute to the 
Rough Riders. 



M 



E. ROOSEVELT has told the story of his Western life in several 
exceedingly interesting volumes. Although full of exciting adven- 
tures and thrilling experiences, these captivating tales are modest 
to a fault. He seems to take as much delight in telling of the shots he 




MOtTSIAIN WOLF. 

missed as of those which reached the mark. He never boasts, and while 
he must have participated in many adventures on the frontier, those 
which might suggest any display of heroism on his part are either omitted 
or else lightly touched upon. 

Although Mr. Eoosevelt was undoubtedly looked upon as more or 
less of a "tenderfoot" by the indigenous Westerner with whom he was 
thrown into daily contact, he asserts that he was always treated with 

95 



96 ROOSEVELT'S LIFE IN THE WEST. 

the utmost courtesy, whether on the roundup or in camp, and the few real 
desperadoes he met were scrupulously polite. To use his own words : 

MB. ROOSEVELT MAKES GOOD. 

"I never was shot at maliciously but once. This was on an occasion 
when I had to pass the night in a little frontier hotel where the bar- 
room occupied the whole floor, and was, in consequence, the place where 
every one, drunk or sober, had to sit. My assailant was neither a' 
cowboy nor a hona fide 'bad man,' but a broad-hatted ruffian of cheap 
and commonplace type, who had for the moment terrorized the other 
men in the bar-room, these being mostly sheep herders and small gran- 
gers. The fact that I wore glasses, together with my evident desire to 
avoid a fight, apparently gave him the impression— a mistaken one— 
that I would not resent an injury." 

"Beware of entrance in a quarrel; but being in, bear thyself that 
the opposer may beware of thee," is the precept laid down by Shakes- 
peare. How Mr. Koosevelt bore himself on this occasion he leaves to 
the imagination, but an eye-witness to the encounter states that after a 
short but decisive tussle he took the "bad man's" gun away from him 
and then proceeded to give him a practical illustration of the "strenuous 
life," by kicking him unceremoniously from the room. To say that this 
act made him popular with the cowboys would be putting it mildly. To 
use a familiar Western expression, Mr. Koosevelt "made good." 

HE DANCED DOWN THE MIDDLE. 

The following incident will serve to explain in a measure his popu- 
larity with his companions of the plains. In one ot his books he 
tells of a deadly affray that took place in a town not very far distant from 
his ranch. It seems that a Scotchman and a Minnesota man had be- 
come involved in a dispute. Both were desperadoes, and after a bitter 
quarrel the former, mounted on his broncho, rode to the door of his 
enemy's house, "looking for trouble," but before he could open fire was 
promptly shot down by the American. Mr. Koosevelt, in relating the 
occurrence, described how, a few days later, he opened a cowboy's ball, 
with the wife of the victor of his contest, he himself dancing opposite the 
husband- "It was the lanciers," says the narrator, "and he knew all 




Copyriglit 1909, by Underwood & Underwood N Y 

T^.^cJ-^^r^°^- ROOSEVELT CAPTURING ' THIS MONSTER CROCODILE. 

„nwJ w- ^ "^"^ Z''^ 't^"?'" '''^^^P "" ^^'"•'^ ''°<i ifs back broken by a shot from a hi^b 
bH, ^'"l "'.'"' T^'xT I* "' ^"^"S '^'■^SS^'^ ^^'^'^ i°t° the water wher^ ft will be devoured 
by Its own kind. The Natives at the headwaters of the Nile, and along thrshores of I ake 
Victoria Nyanza live m mortal terror of Crocodiles and whenever pos^sible they kill them 
with poisoned spears. Among some of the tribes no young man is considered a real wa^ 
^^Zr^e'::^^^:. f^7at':L:'}. '' ''' ^'"-' ^ *^^ tribe^'wtsti; him' tTe^ 




k 



ROOSEVELT'S LIFE IN THE WEST. 



97 



the steps far better tlian I did. He could have danced a minuet very 
well with a little practice. The scene reminded one of the ball where 
Bret Harte's heroine danced down the middle with the man who shot 
SandvMagee." 




AMEBICAN BISON KILLED BY ROOSEVELT IN THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, 



THE DELIGHTS OF THE CHASE. 

Mr. Roosevelt devoted much of his time to hunting among the moun- 
tains and on the plains, both as a pastime and to procure hides, rq,eat, 
and robes for use on the ranch ; and it was his good luck to kill all the 
various kinds of large game that can properly be considered as belong- 
ing to temperate North America. What a stirring description of the 
delights of the chase, which he calls the best of all national pastimes, is 
to be found in the following taken from his book, "The Wilderness 
Hunter"'. 



98 ROOSEVELT'S LIFE IN THE WEST. 

"No one but he who has partaken thereof can understand the keen 
delight of hunting in lonely lands. For his is the joy of the horse well 
ridden and the rifle well held ; for him the long days of toil and hardship, 
resolutely endured, and crowned at the end with triumph. In after years 
prairies shimmering in the bright sun; of vast snow-clad wastes lying 
desolate under gi'ay skies ; of the melancholy marshes ; of the rush of 
mighty rivers; of the breath of ice-armored pines at the touch of the 
winds of winter ; of cataracts roaring between hoary mountain masses ; 
of all the innumerable sights and sounds of the wildei-ness ; of its im- 
mensity and mystery; and of the silences that brood in its still depths." 

A BUFFALO HUNT. 

On one of his first hunting trips, some twenty years ago, Mr. Roose- 
velt decided to go on a buffalo hunt. Leaving camp early in the morning, 
he set out with one companion across a tract of the Bad Lands, and late 
in the aftei'noon came across three male buffalo. After picketing their 
ponies the two men began to <',reep on hands and knees toward the 
animals, and at length succeeded in getting within shooting distai^e. 
This was the first time Mr. Roosevelt had ever shot at a buffalo and, 
deceived by the size and shape of the animal, he made the mistake of 
aiming too far back, with the result that, although he hit the beast, he 
only succeeded in wounding him, and to his chagrin the three animals 
disappeared in a cloud of dust. Mounting their horses, they dashed after 
the fleeing buffalo, and for several miles rode at a rapid gait and soon had 
the satisfaction of seeing the three stop and begin to graze As the two 
men galloped toward them they again dashed away. The ponies they had 
been riding were completely jaded, but they finally succeeded in getting 
within a few yardg of the wounded buffalo. Meanwhile the moon had 
risen, and, what with the uncertain light and the rough ground over 
which they were riding, it was almost impossible to get a good shot. 
Nevertheless, the future President of the United States fired, and, to 
his disappointment, missed. He not only missed, but to his surprise, the 
infuriated animal, with a loud bellow, charged him with lowered horns. 
His pony bolted and the rifle was knocked against his forehead, cutting a 
terrible gash. The buffalo then turned his attention to Mr. Roosevelt's 
companion, who made off on his tired horse, shooting at the pursuing ani- 



ROOSEVELT'S LIFE IN THE WEST. 99 

mal as he went. None of the shots produced any effect, however, and 
wearying of the sport, the buffalo disappeared in the darkness and they 
saw him no more. 

Several days later he was more successful. Shortly after noon, as 
the two hunters were entering a ravine, their ponies suddenly threw up 
their heads and sniffed the air. 

KILLS A BISON. 

"Feeling sure that they had smelt some wild beast," says the hero of 
the adventure, "I slipped off my pony and ran quickly, but cautiously, 
up along the valley. Before I had gone a hundred yards I noticed in 
the soft soil, at the bottom, the round prints of a bison's hoofs ; and im- 
mediately afterwards got a glimpse of the animal himself, as he fed 
slowly up the course of the ravine, some distance ahead of me. The 
wind was just right, and no ground could have been better for stalking. 
Hardly needing to bend down, I walked up behind a small sharp-crested 
hillock, and peeping over, there below me, not fifty yards off, was a great 
bison bull. He was walking along, gra4:ing as he walked. His glossy 
fall coat was in fine trim, and shone in the rays of the sun ; while his pride 
of bearing showed him to be in the lusty vigor of his prime. As I rose 
above the crest of the hill, he held up his head and cocked his tail in the 
air. Before he could go off I put a bullet in behind his shoulder. The 
wound was an almost immediately fatal one, yet with surprising agility 
for so large and heavy an animal, he bounded up the o^Dposite side of 
the ravine, heedless of two more balls, both of which went into his 
flank and ranged forward, and disappeared over the ridge at a lumbering 
gallop, the blood pouring from his mouth and nostrils. 

"We knew he could not go far, and trotted leisurely along on his 
bloody trail ; and in the next gully we found him stark dead, lying almost 
on his back, having pitched over the side when he tried to go down it. ' ' 

A LONG SHOT. 

Upon one occasion, while sitting on his veranda, he heard a splash- 
ing sound in the river some distance away, and glancing in that direction 
saw three deer, which had emerged from the thicket of the trees on the 
opposite bank, slaking their thirst in the stream. Entering the house 



100 ROOSEVELT'S LIFE IN THE WEST. 

he picked up his rifle and, using the pillar of the porch as a rest, fired 
at the largest of the animals, a magnificent buck. It was a long shot, and 
fully 250 yards, but he brought down the deer. The best shot he ever 
made, and, as he apologetically puts it, just such a shot as any one oc- 
casionally will make if he takes a good many chances and fires often at 
ranges where the odds are greatly against his hitting, was at a black- 
tailed deer. Coming across three of these animals, when about 200 yards 
distant he fired, but missed, the bullet striking low. Holding his rifle 
high he made a second shot, above and ahead of them, which only suc- 
ceeded in turning the deer, which quickly vanished behind the shelter 
of a bluff. Elevating the sight of the gun to 400 yards, he waited for 
them to reappear, and had the satisfaction, a few minutes later, of see- 
ing one of them standing broadside toward him. As he was about to fire, 
another deer appeared, and, thinking it would be a good plan to have as 
large a mark as possible to shoot at, he waited and when the second 
animal came to a stop abreast of the first, he aimed carefully and fired. 
The next instant, to his surprise, he observed the two deer struggling 
upon the gi-ound, and hurrying to the spot, discovered that the bullet 
had broken their backs. Measuring the distance from where the animals 
lay to the point where he had stood when firing the shot, to his wonder and 
delight he found that it was over 400 yards. 

AN EXCITING ELK HUNT. 

In 1891, Mr. Roosevelt made an elk hunt in northwestern Wyoming 
among the Shoshone Mountains, and his description of the trip makes the 
reader tingle with excitement as he follows every step of the chase from 
the moment the call of the bull elk echoes through the woodland until 
the proud giant of the forest falls beneath the unerring shot of the hunter. 

"It was very exciting," says Mr. Roosevelt in telling of one adven- 
ture, "as we crept toward the great bull, and the challenge sounded 
nearer and nearer. While we were still at some distance the pealing 
notes were like those of a bugle, delivered in two bars, first rising, then 
abruptly falling; as we drew nearer they took on a harsh, squealing 
sound. Each call made our veins thrill ; it sounded like the cry of some 
huge beast of prey. At last we heard the roar of the challenge not 
eighty yards off. Stealing forward three or four yards, I saw the tips 



ROOSEVELT'S LIFE IN THE WEST. 101 

of the horns through a mass of dead timber and young growth, and I 
slipped to one side to get a clean shot. Seeing us, but not making out 
what we were, and full of fierce and insolent excitement, the wapiti bull 
stepped boldly toward us with a stately swinging gait. Then he stood mo- 
tionless, facing us, barely fifty yards away, his handsome twelve-tined 
antlers tossed aloft ; as he held his head with the lordly grace of his kind, 
I fired into his chest, and as he turned I raced forward and shot him in 
the flank; but the second bullet was not needed, for the first wound was 
mortal, and he fell before going fifty yards. 

"The dead elk lay among the young evergreens. The huge, shapely 
body was set on legs that were as strong as steel rods, and yet slender, 
clean and smooth ; they were in color a beautiful dark brown, contrasting 
well with the yellowish hue of the body. The neck and throat were gar- 
nished with a marie of long hair ; the symmetry of the great horns set 
off the fine, delicate lines of the noble head." 

EASY TO SHOOT STRAIGHT IF YOU ARE CLOSE. 

Speaking of shooting dangerous game, Mr.'Eoosevelt believes that 
steadiness is more needed than good shooting ; that no game is dangerous 
unless a man is close up, and if a man is close it is easy enough for him to 
shoot straight, if he does not lose his head. In recounting several ex- 
citing episodes in connection with the hunting of grizzlies, he utters this 
characteristic maxim: "A bear's brain is about the size of a pint bottle, 
and any one can hit a pint bottle offhand at thirty or forty feet. I have 
had two shots at bears at close quarters, and each time I fired into the 
brain, the bullet going in between the eye and ear. A novice at this kind 
of sport will find it best and safest to keep in mind the old Norse viking's 
advice in reference to a long sword: 'If you go in close enough your 
sword will be long enough.' If a poor shot goes in close enough you will 
find that he shoots straight enough. ' ' Once he came into contact with far 
more dangerous game than grizzlies— Indians— and it was his steadiness 
that brought him out of the encounter unscathed— but we will let him tell 
*:he story hims 

"One morning I had been traveling along the edge of the prairie, and 
about noon I rode Manitou up a slight rise and came out on a plateau 



102 



ROOSEVELT'S LIFE IN THE WEST. 



IQJ^ BUSTING rHt BRONCHO - EAS>r . 




From tlie Minneapolis Jounial 



boosevelt's stbenuous life nr the west. 



ROOSEVELT'S LIFE IN THE WEST. 103 

that was perhaps half a mile broad. When near the middle, four or 
five Indians suddenly came up over the edge, directly in front of me. 

AN INDIAN CHARGE. 

"The second they saw me they whipped their guns out of their slings, 
started their horses into a run, and came on at full tilt, whooping and 
brandishing their weapons. I instantly reined up and dismounted. The 
level plain where we were was of all places the one on which such an on- 
slaught could best be met. In any broken country, or where there is much 
cover, a white man is at a great disadvantage if pitted against such 
adepts in the art of hiding as Indians; while, on the other hand, the 
latter will rarely rush in on a foe who, even if overpowered in the end, 
will probably inflict severe loss on his assailants. The fury of an In- 
dian charge, and the whoops by which it is accompanied, often scare 
horses so as to stampede them ; but in Manitou I had perfect trust, and 
the old fellow stood as steady as a rock, merely cocking his ears and look- 
ing round at the noise. I waited until the Indians were a hundred yards 
off, and then threw up my rifle and di"ew a bead on the foremost. The 
effect was like magic. 

SCATTERED LIKE DUCKS. 

"The whole party scattered out as wild pigeons or teal ducks some- 
times do when shot at, and doubled back on their tracks, the men bending 
over alongside their horses. When some distance off they halted and 
gathered together to consult, and after a minute one came forward alone, 
ostentatiously dropping his rifle and waving a blanket over his head. 
When he came to within fifty yards I stopped him, and he pulled out a 
piece of paper— all Indians, when absent from their reservations, are 
supposed to carry passes— and called out, 'How! Me good Indian.' I 
answered, ' How,' and assured him most sincerely I was very glad he was 
a good Indian, but I would not let him come closer ; and when his com- 
panions began to draw near, I covered him with the rifle and made him 
move off, which he did with a sudden lapse into the most canonical 
Anglo-Saxon profanity. I then started to lead my horse out to the 
prairie ; and after hovering round a short time they rode off, while I fol- 
lowed suit, but in the opposite direction. It had all passed too quickly 



104 ROOSEVELT'S LIFE IN THE WEST. 

for me to have time to get frightened ; but during the rest of my ride I was 
exceedingly uneasy, and pushed tough, speedy old Manitou along at a 
rapid rate, keeping well out on the level. However, I never saw the 
Indians again. They may not have intended any mischief beyond giving 
me a fright ; but I did not dare to let them come to close quarters, for they 
would have probably taken my horse and rifle, and not impossibly my 
scalp as well." 

THE EOXJGH KIDEE. 

But there is something more interesting in Mr. Roosevelt's books than 
his wonderful stories of the chase. From them the reader will obtain a 
correct idea of the West as it was twenty years ago and as it is today. 
Jn his work entitled "Eanch Life and the Hunting Trail," from which 
the foregoing extract is taken, one is brought face to face with the West- 
ern cattle country— the excitement and danger of "riding herd," the 
mysteries of the round-up, the terrors of "broncho busting," and all the 
interesting details that go to make up the life of a cowboy or ranch- 
man. In one of the most interesting chapters in the book, Mr. Eoosevelt 
pays the following tribute to the wild rough rider of the plains: "Brave, 
hospitable, hardy and adventurous, he is the grim pioneer of our land ; 
he prepares the way for the civilization from before whose face he must 
himself disappear. Hard and dangerous though his existence, it has yet 
a wild attraction which plainly draws to it his bold, free spirit." 

This close familiarity with the rough life of these hardy sons of 
the Western Wilds explains to a certain extent the unexampled enthus- 
iasm wherewith Eoosevelt was greeted when during the last Presiden- 
tial campiagn he traveled from 10,000 to 15,000 miles through the West- 
ern States and Territories where he spent so many years of his early 
youth, for everywhere he was greeted as a friend and an old acquaint- 
ance. It also explains how he could stand making from ten to twenty 
vigorous campaign speeches a day, visiting over two hundred towns 
and cities and keeping up the strain for eight consecutive weeks— for 
among the cowboys and ranchmen of the Western plains did he lay the 
foundation of the unexampled physical vigor that has served him so 
well during his strenuous life. 



CHAPTER VIII. 
NATIVES OF AFRICA. 

What Specimens of Humanity Roosevelt Met in Africa— Black and White— Arabs, Negroes 
and Other Races— Hottentots and Bushmen— Speke's and Burton's Discoveries. 

WHEN Roosevelt threw himself into the midst of the Dark Con- 
tinent he found himself among a variety of races entirely dif- 
ferent from all the many nationalities he had governed in his 
own native land. Most advanced in civilization are the Arabs, who 
belong to the Semitic stock, and form the main portion of the population 
of Egypt, Algeria, Tunis and part of Abyssinia, but owing to their com- 
mercial instincts are found in smaller or larger settlements all over the 




ATBICAN KRAALS OE BOtJND HUTS. 
105 



106 



NATIVES OF AFRICA. 



country. The black races are represented in northern, eastern and central 
Africa and in Soudan, while in southern Africa we find Negroes, Kaffirs, 
Bechuanas, Suahelis, and other dark-hued races. To the southwest of 
these are the Hottentots and the Bushmen, while Madagascar is in- 




SAVAGES BURNING VILLAGES AS THEY TRAVEL. 



habited by a Malayan stock, the Nile countries by the Nubians and the 
Niger valleys by the Tulahs. 

The following incident from the famous expedition undertaken by E. 
F. Burton and J. H. Speke, two captains in the British army, through 
the same territory now traversed by Roosevelt give a vivid idea of the 
habHs and nature of the natives. Says Cai^tain Burton: 

"On the wayside appeared for the first time the Khambi, or sub- 
stantial kraals, which give evidence of unsafe traveling and of the un- 



NATIVES OF AFRICA. 



107 



willingness of caravans to bivouac in the villages. In this country they 
assumed the form of round huts, and long sheds or booths of straw or 
grass supported by a framework of rough sticks firmly planted in the 
ground and lashed together with bark strips. The whole was sur- 
rounded with a deep circle of thorns, which— the entrance or entrances 
being carefully closed at night-fall, not to re-open until dawn.— formed 
a complete defense against bare feet and naked legs." 




TEAINING BOYS TO FIGHT. 



The tribe through whose territory they first passed was the Waza- 
ramo, a people that dress their hair by means of a pomatum of clay, 
moistened with castor oil. Wlien this preparation is nearly dry, the 
hair is pulled out into numerous wiry twists, which point in all direc- 
tions. They levy heavy taxes upon all the merchants and others who 
pass through the territory of their tribe, which amount to positive 
plunder. Their nearness to the coast, has changed them in many 



108 



NATIVES OF AFRICA. 



respects, from their natural state ; they wore more clothes thin are the 
fashion among most of the tribes of Africa; while their houses are 
superior, in point of "modern conveniences," to the huts of their neigh- 
bors. 

The travelers arrived at the foot of the mountain near the end of 
July. They both suffered much from malaria, common to the coast 
and were so ill that they could scarcely sit up as they rode. On the way 
up the mountains they saw many skeletons of those who had perished 




NATIVES IN THEIB CANOES ON THE TANGANYIKA LAKE. 



on the road, the bones picked clean by the birds of prey. As they as- 
cended, the purer air of the mountains banished their malaria, and they 
recovered, to some degree, from their wasting fevers. 

As they traversed a plain between two ranges of mountains, they 
came upon a sight which spoke more eloquently than anything else 
could (where human figures were lacking) of the horrors of one great 
African traffic. A village was completely destroyed, the houses bat- 
tered or burned down, and every evidence of human habitation defaced. 
There were many signs of struggling, such as the earth and neighbor- 
ing trees could tell ; though there was no blood. The village had been 



NATIVES OF AFRICA. 



109 



attacked by slavers, and tlie inhabitants carried off. Two 
lurked in the neighboring jungle, but when the travelers would have 
invited them to closer quarters, fled in terror. Both Burton and Speke 
felt the tragedy of which they beheld the scene ; but not so their native 
attendants. To them it was a mere matter of course; they spent the 
night in singing and dancing, and helping themselves to whatever they 
could find in the ruins. 




ATBICAN BOYS PLAYING GAMES. 



The climate of the country through which they were now passing is 
described as "a furnace by day and a refrigerator by night." They 
reached "Windy Pass," at the foot of the third range of the IJpagara 
mountains, early in September. In spite of all that they had had to 
endure from the heat of the sun and the lack of water, the most difiScult 
part of the journey was still to some. From their camp in the valley, 
the explorers could see the almost perpendicular face of the mountain, 



110 NATIVES OF AFRICA. 

and wonder how they, weak and sick (for they were again troubled with 
ague) could ascend it. But they did not despair. The asses stumbled at 
almost every step, while the men were endeavoring to mount a precipice 
where almost every foot dislodged a rolling stone. The ascent required 
six hours ; and Captain Speke suffered so severely from it that two days 
of violent delirium intervened before he was able to continue the journey, 
even in a hammock. 

Through countries where each tribe seemed more intent on plunder 
(they called it presents to the chief) than the last had been, the travelers 
came at length to Unyamwezi, the Land of the Moon. Their approach to 
Tura Nullah, the first town of this country, created a sensation— literally 
' ' astonished the natives : ' ' 

"We reached a large expanse of pillar-stones, where the van had 
halted, in order that the caravan might make its first appearance with 
dignity. Then ensued a clearing, studded with large stockaded villages, 
peering over tall hedges of dark-green milk-bush, fields of maize and 
millet, manioc, gourds, and water-melons, and showing numerous flocks 
and herds, clustering around the shallow pits. The people swarmed 
from their abodes, young and old hustling one another for a better stare, 
the man forsook his loom and the girl her hoe, and for the remainder 
of the march we were escorted by a tail of screaming boys and shouting 
adults ; the males almost nude, the women bare to the waist, and clothed 
only knee-deep in kilts, accompanied us, puffing pipes the while, striking 
their hoes with stones, crj'ing 'beads, beads!' and ejaculating their 
wonder in strident expressions of 'Hi! hi!' and 'Hiu! ihl' and 'Ha! 
a!a!'" 

The porters took possession of a considerable assemblage of vacant 
huts, and the two white men were assigned to a wall-less roof, bounded on 
one side by the village palisade. Here the mob came to behold the 
strangers, and from morning till night there was no cessation of thgir 
staring; when one had gazed his fill, another at once took his place. 

From this point onward, we find the progress of the party even less 
rapid than it had been heretofore ; so greatly were they delayed by sick- 
ness. Before they had passed into the country which lies nearest to 
Lake Tanganyika, they were obliged to dismiss those servants who had 



NATIVES OF AFRICA. Ill 

been hired for a term of sis months ; and it was nearly seven months after 
their departure that they resumed their march without these persons. It 
was to occupy almost two months, before they came upon the lake which 
it was their intention to explore. We quote again from Burton : 

"On the 13th of February we resumed our travel through screens of 
lofty grass, which thinned out into a straggling forest. After about an 
hour 's march, as we entered a small savannah, I saw the fundi running 



AFBICANS DEFOBMING THEMSELVES FOB STYLE, 



forward and changing the direction of the caravan. Without supposing 
that he had taken upon himself this responsibility, I followed him. Pres- 
ently he breasted a steep and stony hill, sparsely clad with thorny trees. 
Arrived with toil, for our fagged beasts now refused to proceed, we 
halted for a few minutes upon the summit. 'What is that streak of 
light which lies below ? ' I inquired of Seedy Bombay. ' I am of opinion, ' 
quoth Bombay, 'that that is the water.' I gazed in dismay; the remains 
of my blindness, the veil of trees, and a broad ray of sunshine illuminat- 
ing but one reach of the lake bend, shrunk its fair proportions. Some- 
what prematurely, I began to lament my folly in having risked life and 



112 NATIVES OF AFRICA. 

lost breath for so poor a prize, to curse Arab exaggeration, and to propose 
an immediate return, with the view of exploring Nyanza, a northern lake. 
Advancing, however, a few yards, the whole scene burst upon my view, 
filling me with admiration, wonder and delight. 

"Nothing could be more picturesque than this first view of the 
Tanganyika lake, as it lay in the lap of the mountains, basking in the 
gorgeous tropical sunshine. Below and beyond a short foreground of 
rugged and iDrecipitous hill-fold, down which the foot-path zig-zags pain- 
fully, a narrow strip of emerald green, never sere, and marvelously fer- 
tile, shelves toward a ribbon of glistening yellow sand, here bordered by 
sedgy rushes, there cleanly and clearly cut by the breaking wavelets. 
Farther in front stretch the waters— an expanse of the lightest and 
softest blue— in breadth varying from thirty to thirty-five miles, and 
sprinkled by the crisp east wind with tinj^ crescents of snowy foam. The 
background in front is a high and broken wall of steel-colored moun^ 
tain, here flecked and capped with pearly mist, there standing sharply 
penciled against the azure air; its yawning chasms, marked by a deeper 
plum-color, fall toward dwarf hills of mound-like proportions, which 
apparently dip their feet in the wave. To the south, and opposite the 
long low point behind which the Malagarazi river discharges the red loam 
suspended in its violent stream, lie the bluff headlands and capes of 
Aguhha, and as the eye dilates, it falls upon a cluster of out-lying islets 
specking a sea-horizon. Villages, cultivated lands, the frequent canoes 
of the fishermen on the waters^ and on a nearer approach, the murmurs 
of the waves breaking upon the shore, give something of a variety of 
movement, of life to the landscape, which, like all the fairest prospects in 
these regions, wants but a little of the neatness and finish of art- 
mosques and kiosks, palaces and villas, gardens and orchards— con- 
trasting with the profuse lavishness and magnificence of nature, and 
diversifying the coup d'ceil unbroken of excessive vegetation, to rival, 
if not to excel, the most admired scenery of the classic regions, the riant 
shores of this vast crevasse appeared doubly beautiful to me after the 
silent and spectral mangrove creeks on the East African sea-board, 
and the melancholy, monotonous experience of desert and jungle scenery,. 



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COL. ROOSEVELT IN THE HUNTER'S PARADISE. 

Arrival at Kapiti Plains, a station near the ranch of Sir Alfred Pease. 



NATIVES OF AFRICA. 



113 



tawny rock and sun-parched plain, or rank herbage and flats of black 
mire. Truly it was a revel for soul and sight. ' ' 

Proceeding at once to Kawele, which may be considered as the port 
of Ujiji, the explorers endeavored to procure a boat for the navigation 
of the lake ; but this was no easy matter. Despairing of procuring a 
vessel at Kawele, Captain Speke went in a canoe, with twenty men, to 
TJkaranga, for the puriDose of hiring a dhow from the Arab merchant 
there who was the possessor of the sole vessel of this kind upon the 




NATIVES BETUSE TO PBOCEED. 



lake. The Arab detained him there by evasive answers for several days, 
and at last agreed to let him have it at the end of three months. 

The natives had told them of a river by means of which the waters 
of the lake were emptied— a great river, flowing toward the west; and 
their eager interest was too thoroughly aroused to permit them to wait 
all this time inactive. They hired two canoes for an exorbitant sum, one 
sixty feet by foui', the other about forty feet long. In such vessels, 
they proposed to navigate the lake which they believed to be the recipient 



114 NATIVES OF AFRICA, 

and absorbent of the entire river system— tlie heart from which the great 
rivers, like arteries, drew their floods, and to which the vein-like smaller 
streams brought their constant contributions. For fifteen days they kept 
onward ; nine days they remained at the point so reached, Uvira, and in 
nine days more they returned to their starting-place. Of the difficulties 
of the journey, Captain Burton says : 

"The boating was rather a severe trial. "We had no means of rest- 
ing the back; the holds of the canoes, besides being knee-deep in water, 
were disgracefully crowded. They had been appropriated to us and our 
four servants by Kannena, but by degrees he introduced, in addition to 
the stores, spars, broken vases, pots and gourds, a goat, two or three 
small boys, one or two sick sailors, the little slave girl, and the large 
sheep. The canoes were top-heavy with the number of their crew, and 
the shipping of many seas spoiled our tents, and, besides, wetted our 
salt and soddened our grain and flour ; the gunpowder was damaged, and 
the guns were honeycombed with rust. Besides the splashing of the 
paddles and the dashing of the waves, heavy showers fell almost every 
day and night, and the intervals were bursts of burning sunshine." 

It should be remembered, in explanation of what is said above of the 
leaking of the canoes, that these vessels are hollowed out of logs, which 
soon shrink and crack ; for want of caulking, they become leaky at once ; 
and it is a regular part of the proceedings during any trip by water to bale 
out the boats. Narrow seats are placed across the vessel, and on each 
of these sit two men, managing the clumsy paddles which are their sub- 
stitutes for the oars. A clear space in the middle about six feet long 
constitutes the hold in which, according to Captain Burton's account, 
so many and such various articles were stowed away. Nor was this all; 
from morning till night, or as long as they were engaged in paddling, 
the men whom they had hired for this work kept up a long, monotonous 
howl, varied by yells and shouts, and accompanied by the bray of horns, 
tomtoms, shamras, and whatever other instruments of noise are known to 
them; so that it was simply impossible to make calculations, to take 
obser\'ations, or do anything else to further the scientific objects of the 
expedition. Superstition forbade the boatmen to tolerate any ques- 
Vons, or to permit the lead to be hove ; nor could the captain who had been 



NATIVES OF AFRICA. 



115 



engaged to control them dissuade them from stopping where they pleased, 
cr from going on from a point where they did not wish to stop. 

As above stated, they proceeded only fifteen days' journey along the 
shores of the lake ; the reasons why they did not go any farther was that 
the captain and sailors refused to do so, although they had been hired 
for the whole trip. Persuasions were useless, and so were threats ; they 







TYPES OF DITFEKENT APBIOAN EACES. 



had made up their minds that they would go no farther, and the. English- 
men who had suffered so much in the journey thither were compelled to 
turn back by the whim of a set of ignorant savages. 

Burton and Speke remained at Ujiji for three months and a half; 
and being unable to accomplish anything more, set out on their re- 
turn journey as soon as a caravan with the needful supplies had reached 



116 NATIVES OF AFRICA. 

the lake. Their departure was taken May 26, 1858 ; and nearly a'month 
later, they arrived at Kazeh, two hundred and sixty-five miles distant. 
Here it was determined that they should separate for a time ; for they 
were desirous of exploring a great lake, which the natives told them, lay 
some fifteen or sixteen marches toward the north. This, of course, was 
no other than the Victoria Nyanza, as it was named by its discoverer. 
Hitherto, Tanganyika and the Nyanzas, judged by the native accounts 
which had reached European ears, had been confused, just as at an earlier 
date, the Niger and Congo had been confused. Both Burton and 
Speke now, however, grasped the situation; all discrepancies were ex- 
plained, if this hitherto unknown basin should be proved to have an 
actual existence. Captain Burton was so reduced by fever that he was 
compelled to forego the enterprise, and Captain Speke accordingly left 
him at Kazeh, and pressed forward without a white companion. 

After a journey of twenty days, he saw, on the 30th of July, 1858, 
the vast inland sea stretching before him. It was the long-sought source 
of the Nile, he believed; and to the lake which no white man had ever 
before looked upon, he gave its native name, coupled with that of the 
sovereign to whose service he was sworn— the Victoria Nyanza. 

Returning in all haste, he reached his companion on the 25th of Au- 
gust, and they together set out for Zanzibar ; whence they set sail, arriv- 
ing in England February 9, 1859. 

The two explorers were received with much enthusiasm by the Eoyal 
Geographical Society, and presented each with a gold medal, as a reward 
(or rather recognition) of their services. In Captain Burton's response 
to the speech of Sir Roderick Murchison, the President of the Society, we 
find the summing up of what part each had taken in the expedition : 

* ' You have alluded, sir, to the success of the last expedition. Justice 
compels me to state the circumstances under which it attained that 
success. To Captain Speke are due those geographical results to which 
you have alluded in such flattering terms. While I undertook the history 
and ethnography, the languages and peculiarity of the people, to Captain 
Speke fell the arduous task of delineating an exact topography, and of 
laying down our positions by astronomical observations— a labor to 



NATIVES OF AFRICA. 117 

which, at times, even the undaunted Livingstone found himself un- 
equal." 

Captain Burton's health had been so seriously affected by the African 
climate, and by the hardships endured on this journey, that he felt him- 
self unequal, for the time at least, to farther efforts of this nature. Cap- 
tain Speke, however, was ready to undertake the venture ; and he says 
that this expedition "may be said to have commenced on the 9th of 
May, 1859, the first day after my return to England from my second 
expedition, when, at the invitation of Sir B. I. Murchison, I called at his 
house to show him my map for the information of the Royal Geographical 
Society. Sir Eoderick, I need only say, at once accepted my views ; and 
knowing my ardent desire to prove to the world, by actual inspection of 
the exit, that the Victoria Nyanza was the source of the Nile, seized the 
enlightened view that such a discovery should not be lost to the glory of 
England and the society of which he was president; and said to me: 
' ' Speke, we must send you there again. ' ' 

The expedition, thus informally projected, was afterward discussed 
in good earnest; Captain Speke requesting that five thousand pounds 
be given him for the purpose. The Society thought his demand too large, 
however, and he finally accepted half the sum named, saying that he would 
pay from his own pocket whatever else was needed. It was his plan to 
send forward a quantity of supplies by caravans, to be lodged in certain 
towns awaiting his arrival ; so that he should not have to travel through 
a thievish country with such great stores ; but this intention, owing to the 
delays which "red tapeism" interposed, could not be wholly carried out. 

Captain Grant, an old friend and fellow-sportsman, hearing of the 
projected expedition, requested to be allowed to accompany it; and he 
was formally detailed as Captain Speke 's companion. The route by 
which they were to go was at first a matter of some doubt. Many per- 
sons said, if they wished to find the source of the Nile, the natural plan 
would be for them to ascend the river until they came to the head-waters ; 
but Captain Speke urged against this that several travelers had tried 
it, and from some unexplained reason had failed ; he preferred to pro- 
ceed to Zanzibar, thence strike across the country, and, having reached 
the lake, explore its coasts until he came to the stream issuing from it 



118 



NATIVES OF AFRICA. 



which might be supposed to be the Nile, and descend that far enough to 
verify his conclusions. The nature of the return journey would have to 
be determined by the circumstances then encountered. 




TWO-HORNED KHIN0CEE08. 



October 2, 1860, the march inland from Zanzibar began. The caravan 
consisted of about two hundred persons ; but eleven deserted before start- 
ing. Go they must, however, because one desertion would be sure to lead 



NATIVES OF AFRICA. 119 

to another ; and go tliey did. The route as far as Zungemero was the 
same as that traversed on the previous expedition, and was followed 
without special incident until they reached the last district in Ugogo, 
Khoko. Near this point Captain Speke met with a hunting adventure 
which is well worth repeating. Ninety-six men of his caravan had 
deserted, and it was necessary to halt while Sheikh Said found new re- 
cruits, laid in provisions of grain to last them eight days in the wilder- 
ness, and settled for their maintenance with the chief whose hospitality 
they were then experiencing. 

"For this trip!e business I allowed three days, during which time, 
always eager to shoot something, either for science or the pot, I killed a 
bicornis rhinoceros, at a distance of five paces only, * * * as the beast 
stood quietly feeding in the bush; and I also shot a bitch-fox, * * * 
whose ill-omened cry often alarms the natives by forewarning them of 
danger. This was rather tame sport ; but next day I had better fun. 

' ' Starting i n the early morning, accompanied by two of Sheikh Said 's 
boys, Suliman and Faraj, each carrying a rifle, while I carried a shot- 
gun, we followed a foot-path to the westward in the wilderness of Mgunda 
Mkhali. There, after walking a short while in the bush, as I heard the 
grunt of a buffalo close on my left, I took 'Blissett' in hand, and walked to 
where I soon espied a large herd quietly feeding. They were quite 
unconscious of my approach, so I took a shot at a cow, and wounded her ; 
then, after reloading, put a ball in a bull, and staggered him also. This 
caused great confusion among them; but, as none of the animals knew 
where the shots came from, they simply shifted about in a fidgety man- 
ner, allowing me to kill the first cow, and even to fire a fourth shot, which 
sickened the great bull, and induced him to walk off, leaving the herd to 
their fate, who, considerably puzzled, began moving off also. 

" I now called up the boys, and determined on following the herd down 
before either skinning the dead cow or following the bull, who, I knew, 
could not go far. Their footprints being well defined in the moist sandy 
soil, we soon found the herd again ; but, as they now knew they were pur- 
sued, they kept moving on in short runs at a time, when occasionally gain- 
ing glimpses of their large dark bodies as they forced through the bush, 
I repeated my shots and struck a good number, some more and some less 



120 NATIVES OF AFRICA. 

severely. This was very provoking; for all of them being stern shots 
were not likely to kill ; and the jungle was so thick I could not get a front 
view of them. Presently, however, one of them with her hind leg broken 
pulled up on a white-ant hill, and tossing her horns, came down with a 
charge the instant I showed myself close to her. One crack of the rifle 
rolled her over, and gave me free scope to improve the bag, which was 
very soon done ; for on following the spoors, the traces of blood led us up 
to another one as lame as the last. He then got a second bullet in the 
flank, and, after hobbling a little, evaded our sight and threw himself into 
a bush, where we no sooner arrived than he plunged headlong at us from 
his ambush, just, and only just, giving me time to present my small 40- 
gauge Lancaster. 

"It was a most ridiculous scene. Suliman by my side, with the in- 
stinct of a monkey, made a violent spring and swung himself by a bough 
immediately over the beast, while Faraj bolted away and left me single- 
gunned to polish him off. There was only one course to pursue ; for in 
one instant more he would have been into me ; so, quick as thought I fired 
the gun, and, as luck would have it, my bullet, after passing through the 
edge of on,e of his horns, stuck in the spine of his neck, and rolled him 
over at my feet dead as a rabbit. Now, having cut the beast's throat to 
make him 'hilal,' according to the Mussulman usage, and thinking we had 
done enough if I could only return to the first wounded bull and settle him 
too, we commenced retracing our steps, and by accident came on Grant. 
He was passing by from another quarter, and became amused by the 
glowing description of my boys, who never omitted to narrate their own 
cowardice as an excellent tale. He begged us to go on in our course, while 
he would go back and send us some porters to carry home the game. 

"Now, tracking back again to the first point of attack, we followed 
the blood of the first bull, till at length I found him standing like a stuck 
pig in some bushes, looking as if he would have liked to be put out of his 
miseries. Taking compassion, I leveled my Blisset; but as bad luck 
would have it, a bough intercepted the flight of the bullet, and it went 
pinging into the air, while the big bull went off at a gallop. To follow on 
was no difiSculty, the spoor was so good ; and in ten minutes more, as I 
opened on a small clearance, Blissett in hand, the great beast, from a 



NATIVES OF AFRICA. . 121 

thicket on the opposite side, charged down like a mad bull, full of ferocity 
—as ugly an antagonist as I ever saw, for the front of his head was all 
shielded with horn. A small mound fortunately stood between us, and 
as he rounded it, I jumped to one side and let fly at his flank, but without 
the effect of stopping him ; for, as quick as thought, the huge monster was 
at my feet, battling with the impalpable smoke of my gun, which for- 
tunately hung so thick on the ground at the height of his head that he 
could not see me, though I was so close that I might, had I been possessed 
of a hatchet, have chopped off his head. This was a predicament that 
looked very ugly, for my boys had both bolted, taking with them my guns ; 
but suddenly the beast, evidently regarding the smoke as a phantom 
which could not be mastered, turned round in a bustle, to my intense 
relief, and galloped off at full speed, as if scared by soma terrible appar- 
ition. 

' ' Oh what would I not then have given for a gun, the chance was such 
a good one ! Still, angry as I was, I could not help laughing as the 
dastardly boys came into the clearance full of their mimicry, and joked 
over the scene they had witnessed in security, while my life was in 
jeopardy because they were too frightened to give me my gun. But now 
came the worst part of the day ; for though rain was falling, I had not 
the heart to relinquish my game. Tracking on through the bush, I 
thought every minute I should come up with the brute ; but his wounds 
ceased to bleed, and in the confusion of the numerous tracks which 
scored all the forest we lost our own." 

The.boys were no more reliable as guides than they had been as hunt- 
ing companions ; for insisting that they were following the right track, 
they passed that which their own feet had really made, and wandered 
ibout in the pathless forest for hours. Nor was their judgment regarding 
the points of the compass to be relied upon; but after a night spent on 
the rain-soaked earth. Captain Speke could only convince them that east 
was not west by pointing to the rising sun. 

Their absence had naturally created alarm at the camp, and volleys 
had been fired throughout the night. Some echoes of these had indeed 
reached their ears, but had been confounded with rolls of distant thunder, 
of which there had also been many. 



122 NATIVES OF AFRICA. 

Speke was surprised, on reaching the bounds of Unyanyembe, to find 
that changes had taken place since his previous visit; the Arabs, who 
had then been simple merchants, carrying on commerce between the 
natives and the coast, had engaged in a deadly war with the negroes, and, 
being victorious, lived as lords of the soil. The war was not yet over ; 
and, in addition to its horrors, the explorers learned that a famine was 
here raging. These circumstances detained them for several months 
at Kazeh, for it was literally impossible to procure porters for thp 
transportation of their baggage. 

They improved the time by a careful study of the Wagandas. It 
should be remembered that the languages of this part of Africa agree in 
denoting, by prefixes, the variations of geographical terms. For in- 
stance, Uganda is the country, Waganda denotes the people inhabiting it; 
Miganda is the designation of an individual of the Waganda; and 
Kiganda is the language which he speaks. It should further be noted 
that Nyanza, more proj^erly written N'yanza, is a general term applied to 
any great body of water, either river or lake. The earliest explorers of 
this section of the continent made the mistake of supposing it to be a 
proper name, and hence arose a confusion of ideas. 

It must not be supposed that they were wholly inactive during this 
period; they progressed somewhat, but very slowly; sickness having its 
due influence in hindering their advance, as well as the extei-nal circum- 
stances which have been mentioned. They entered the rich fat district 
of Mininga late in March, and took up their quarters in a hut belonging to 
Sirboko, a broken-down ivory merchant, and the greatest man of the 
district. He advised them to remain there for a time; and after con- 
sultation with the chief of their own followers, they resolved to accept 
the advice. 

Their host had lost all his property by the burning of a village in 
which it had been stored; and come hither, in order to avoid his creditors 
on the coast. He had engaged in agriculture, his operations bein§ con- 
fined chiefly to rice, because the natives do not like it well enough to 
steal it. 

Here they had the opportunity or doing a humane act; for one of 
Sirboko *s slaves, recognizing Speke, told him that he had been in a 



NATIVES OF AFRICA. 123 

fight at Ujiji, speared all over and left for dead, but then seized by the re- 
turning enemy and sold to the Arabs. His touching appeal could not be 
withstood, and the explorer interceded with his master to grant him 
freedom. The release was effected ; the freedman was newly named Far- 
han (Joy) and duly enrolled in Speke's service. 

The two white men frequently separated for a few days at the time, 
Captain Speke most often making short excursions into the surround- 
ing country, while Captain Grant remained with the caravan, recruiting 
his health, which had been much affected by the climate, and enjoying 
himself dancing with the native women. 

Late in November, 1861, they reached the palace of King Rumanika, 
situated on the shores of a beautiful lake in the bosom of the hills, to 
which the discoverers gave the name of Little "Windermere. Rumanika 
received them with cordiality, and even requested that they would take 
two of his sons with them when they returned to their own country, that 
they might be taught the white men's learning. He waS the best native 
prince that they had yet encountered ; and they were not a little pleased 
with his generous and eager mind. 

This king sent a messenger to Mtesa, the king of Uganda, to announce 
the approach of the party. This embassador returned January 10, 1862, 
accompanied by an escort of smartly dressed men, women, and boys, to 
conduct the white men to the capital of Uganda. Captain Grant was 
unable to travel ; but leaving him to follow later on. Captain Speke set 
out the next day with this retinue. 

They crossed the equator February 7 ; and shortly after passing the 
line, they were met by some pages who came as messengers from Mtesa, 
to say that the king had made a vow that he would neither eat nor drink 
until the white men should have come to him. Speke says : 

"One march more, and we came in sight of the king's kibuga, or 
palace, in the province of Bandawarogo, north latitude twenty-one min- 
utes, nineteen seconds, and east longitude thirty-two degrees, forty-four 
minutes, thirty seconds. It was a magnificent sight. A whole hill was 
covered with gigantic huts, such as I had never seen in Africa before. I 
wished to go up to the palace at once, but the officers said : ' No, that would 
be considered indecent in Uganda ; you must draw up your men and fire 



124 NATIVES OF AFRICA. 

your guns off, to let the king know that you are here ; we will then show 
you your residence, and tomorrow you will doubtless be sent for, as the 
king could not now hold a levee while it is raining.' I made the men 
fire, and then was shown into a lot of dirty huts, which, they said, were 
built expressly for the king's visitors. The Arabs, when they came on 
their visits, always put up here, and I must do the same. At first I stuck 
out my claims as a foreign prince, whose royal blood could not stand 
such an indignity. The palace was my sphere ; and unless I could get a 
hut there, I would return without seeing the king. 

"In a terrible fright at my blustering, Nyamgundu fell at my feet 
and implored me not to be hasty. * * * I gave way to this good man's 
appeal, and cleaned my hut by firing it to the ground; for, like all the 
huts in this dog country, it was full of fleas. Once ensconced there, the 
king's pages darted in to see me, bearing a message from their master, 
who said he was sorry the rain prevented him from holding a levee that 
day, .but the nest he would be delighted to see me." 

The next day, word was duly sent that the stranger was awaited 
at court; and costuming himself for the occasion, and preparing his 
presents for presentation, Speke gave the signal that he was ready to 
proceed. * * * Arrived at the ante-reception court, he found it neces- 
sary to assert his dignity in no measured tei-ms. 

"By the chief officers in waiting, who thought fit to treat us like 
Arab merchants, I was requested to sit on the ground outside in the sun 
with my servants. Now I had made up my mind never to sit on the 
ground as the natives and Arabs are obliged to do, nor to make my 
obeisance in any other manner than is customarj' in England, though the 
Arabs had told me that from fear they had always complied with the 
manners of the court. I felt that if I did not stand up for my social posi- 
tion at once, I should be treated with contempt during the remainder of 
my visit, and thus lose the vantage-ground I had assumed of appearing 
as a prince, rather than as a trader, for the purpose of better gaining 
the confidence of the king. To avert over-hastiness, however,— for my 
servants began to be alarmed as I demurred against doing as I was bid— 
I allowed five minutes to the court to give me a proper reception, saying 
if it were not conceded I would then walk away. 



NATIVES OP AFRICA. 



125 



"Nothing, however, was done. * * * The affair ended by my walk- 
ing straight away home." 

The Waganda stood "still as posts," unable to understand such 
temerity; Speke's own servants were greatly troubled for their master, 
not knowing what would be the consequence cf his deed. Meantime Mtesa 




THE KING WAS SEATED ON HIS TKEONE. 



had been told of his action ; and sent messengers in hot haste to beg him 
to return. Speke coolly shook his head and patted his heart, and walked 
on a little faster. Shortly after he arrived at his hut, other messengers 
came to say that if he would but return, he might bring with him a chair 
to sit upon— an unparalleled concession, since no one in Uganda but the 
king is allowed the dignity of such a seat. Having drank a cup of coffee 
and smoked a pipe, the angry prince ( ?) leisurely returned to the court of 
King Mtesa. 



126 NATIVES OF AFRICA. 

King Mtesa was seated on his throne to receive the guest, who, on 
being told to halt and sit in the burning sun, coolly put on his hat and 
raised his umbrella. For upwards of an hour he and the king sat 
silently regarding each other; Speke mute, but Mtesa pointing and re- 
marking with those around him on the novelty of the visitor's guard and 
general appearance, and even requiring to see his hat lifted, the umbrella 
opened and shut, and the guards face about and show their red cloaks — 
for such wonders had never been seen in Uganda. 

Then, inquiring by means of an interpreter if Speke had seen him, 
and receiving an affirmative reply, the chief arose and walked away, in 
what was intended to be a very majestic gait. "It was the traditional 
walk of his race, founded on the steja of the lion ; but the outward sweep 
of the legs intended to rejjresent the stride of this noble beast, appeared 
to me only to realize a very ludicrous kind of waddle, which made me 
ask Bombay if anything serious was the matter with the royal person." 

Speke stayed long enough in Uganda to become thoroughly well ac- 
quainted with the customs of the people. Under date of March 25, 1862, 
he says : 

"I have now been for some time within the court precincts, and have 
consequently had an opportunity of witnessing court customs. Among 
these, nearly every day since I have changed my residence, incredible as 
it may appear to be, I have seen one, two, or three of the wretched palace 
women led away to execution, tied by the hand, and dragged along by one 
of the body-guard, crying out, as she went to premature death, 'Hai 
minangeV (Oh, my lord!) 'KbakkaV (My king!) 'Hai n'yawoV (My 
mother!) at the top of her voice, in the utmost despair and lamentation; 
and yet there was not a soul who dared lift his hand to save any of 
them, though many might be heard privately commenting on their 
beauty. ' ' 

• On the arrival of Captain Grant, the queen-dowager, with whom Cap- 
tain Speke was already very well acquainted, desired that the new-comer 
should be presented to her. Speke complied with this demand, repre- 
senting Grant as his brother. Her majesty persistently ignored his claim 
that they were of one house, but finally gave up her attempt to extort a 
separate present from Grant 



NATIVES OF AFRICA. 



127 



For more than four months after Speke's first arrival at the capital of 
Uganda, Mtesa had resisted every argument and inducement to permit 
him to continue his journey northward. Finally, however, he became 
intensely jealous of Rumanika, and declared that he would show his rival 
that all the supplies for Uganda need not come through his country. If 
another route were opened, these mighty strangers would come direct to 




THE VICTOEIjV NILE. 



him; and he therefore promised these travelers that he would furnish 
them with guides to Unyore and with boats for a voyage on the Nile. 

The promise was accepted without delay, and the king was resolutely 
held to it. Setting out from the capital, they determined to separate, 
Grant going forward with the main body of the caravan to King Kam- 
rasi's capital, while Speke skirted the borders of the lake until he should 
come upon the Nile, flowing out of it. This latter intention was realized 
two days after their separation, July 19, 1862. 

"Here at last I stood on the brink of the Nile! Most beautiful was 
the scene, nothing could surpass it. It was the very perfection of the 
effect aimed at in a highly kept park with a magnificent stream. ' ' 



128 



NATIVES OF AFRICA. 



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NATIVE WIZARD. 

This may be the most powerful man in his tribe, whom even the chief may fear. He 
knows too much, he knows the meanings of his bones and the secret spells by which 
disease and disaster may be hurled against the foe. He can "smell out" criminals, who 
are generally enemies of the chief or himself and who are done to death at his word. He 
deals in drugs and poisons. In some tribes only the wizard and doctor is allowed to wear 
the skins of certain animals. 







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CHAPTER IX. 

ROOSEVELT— THE ROUGH RIDER. 

Organizing the Regiment— A Composite Lot— College Athletes ard Cowboys— The Officers- 
Orders to March— The Landing at Daiquiri— The First Skirmish— Death of Sergeant 
Fish and Captain Capron— The La Quassina Fight— The Baptism of Fire— San Juan 
Hill— The Surrender of Santiago— The Celebrated "Round Robin." 

WHEN the news of Devrey's victory reached this country, Mr. 
Roosevelt resigned his position as Assistant Secretary of the 
Navy. "There is nothing more for me to do here," he said, 
"I've got to get into the fight myself." And agafn to a friend of his, "I 
have been a jingo all my life, now I am going to take my own medicine." 
He first endeavored to get a staff appointment, but finally, when there 
began to be talk of a regiment of "rough riders," he felt that his oppor- 
tunity had come. 

KOOSEVELT IS OFFERED THE COMMAND. 

While Assistant Secretary of the Navy he had met Dr. Leonard Wood, 
and a friendship had at once sprung up between them. Dr. Wood had 
previously served in General Miles' campaign against the Apaches, where 
he had won a medal of honor for remarkable bravery. "When the war 
broke out, they discovered a mutual desire to go to the front, and when 
Congress authorized the raising of three Western cavalry regiments, both 
expressed a desire to serve in the same command. Secretary Alger 
offered Roosevelt the command of one of these regiments, but he replied 
that while he believed he could learn to command a regiment in a month, 
that this was just the very month that he could not afford to spare and 
that, therefore, he would be quite content to go as lieutenant-colonel if he 
would make his friend Wood colonel. 

' ' This was satisfactory to both the President and Secretary of War," 
said Mr. Roosevelt, ' ' and accordingly Wood and I were speedily commis- 
sioned as colonel and lieutenant-colonel of the First United States Vol- 

129 



130 ROOSEVELT— THE ROUGH RIDER. 

unteer Cavalry, This was the official title of the regiment, but for some 
reason or ether, the public promptly christened us the 'Eough Eiders.' 
At' first we fought against the use of the term, but to no purpose, and 
when finally the generals of division and brigade began to write in formal 
communications about our regiment as the 'Rough Eiders,' we adopted 
the term ourselves." 

DELUGED WITH APPLICATIONS. 

The mustering places for the regiment were mainly New Mexico, 
[Arizona, Oklahoma and Indian Territory, and the main difficulty encoun- 
tered was not in selecting, but in rejecting men. From every section of 
the United States applications began to pour in, and when, finally, the 
roster was complete, as Mr. Eiis has expressed it, "the Eough Eiders 
were the most composite lot ever gathered under a regimental standard, 
but they were at the same time singularly typical of the spirit that con- 
quered a continent in three generations, eminently American. Probably 
such another will never be gotten together again; in no other country 
on earth could it have been mustered to-day. The cowboy, the Indian 
trailer, the Indian himself, the packer and the hunter who had sought and 
killed the grizzly in his mountain fastness, touched elbows with the New 
York policeman who, for love of adventure, had followed his once chief to 
the war, with the college athlete, the football player and the oarsman, 
the dare-devil mountaineer of Georgia, fresh from hunting moonshiners 
as a revenue officer, and with the society man, the child of luxury and 
wealth from the East, bent upon proving that a life of ease had dulled 
neither his manhood nor his sense of our common citizenship." 

INVARIABLY DECLINED COMMISSIONS. 

Harvard being Mr. Roosevelt's own college, he naturally receiyed a 
great many applications from that institution, but what particularly 
pleased him was that not only the applicants from his Alma Mater, but 
also the Yale and Princeton men, invariably declined commissions. And 
so it came to pass that Dudley Dean, the celebrated quarter-back ; Wrenn 
and Larned, the champion tennis j^layers ; Waller, the high jumper ; Gar- 
rison, Girard, Devereaux and Channing, the football players; Wads- 
worth, the steeple-chase rider ; Joe Stevens, the polo player ; Hamilton 



ROOSEVELT— THE ROUGH RIDER. 131 

Fish, ex-eaptain of the Columbia crew, and others, all entered the Eough 
Eiders and accepted the hard work and rough fare as though they had 
been accustomed to nothing else. There were recruits from clubs like 
the Somerset of Boston and the Knickerbocker of New York, and, as Mr. 
Koosevelt expressed it, it seemed as though every friend that he had in 
every State had some one acquaintance who was bound to go with the 
Rough Riders and for whom he had to make a place. * ■ 

NOT A MAN BACKED OtTT. 

"Before allowing them to be sworn in," says Mr. Roosevelt, "I gath- 
ered them together and explained that if they went in they must be 
prepared not merely to fight, but to perform the weary, monotonous labor 
incident to the ordinary routine of the soldier's life; that they must be 
ready to face fever exactly as they were to face bullets ; that they were to 
obey unquestioningly, and to do their duty as readily if called upon to 
garrison a fort as if sent to the front. I warned them that work that was 
merely irksome and disagreeable must be faced as readily as work that 
was dangerous, and that no complaint of any kind must be made ; and I 
told them that they were entirely at liberty not to go, but that after they 
had once signed there could then be no backing out. Not a man of them 
backed out; not one of them failed to do his whole duty." 

But these men formed but a small portion of the regiment, the bulk 
of which came from the Territories. Magnificent specimens of humanity, 
inured to hardship, unerring shots, ideal horsemen, accustomed to out- 
door life, the freedom of the frontier and the rude discipline of the 
ranch or mining camp ; they were difficult men to handle, save by leaders 
who had demonstrated their ability in that direction. 

HOW THE REGIMENT WAS OFFICERED. 

Thus it was that the officers of the regiment were men who had either 
fought against the Indians, or had taken the field against the more des- 
perate white outlaws of the plains. The captain of Troop A was Bucky 
O'Neill, the mayor of Prescott, Arizona; then there was Captain 
"Llewellyn of New Mexico, one of the most celebrated peace officers of 
the country ; Lieutenant Ballard, who broke up the notorious Black Jack 



132 ROOSEVELT— THE ROUGH RIDER. 

gang; Captain Curry, a New Mexican sheriff, and a sprinkling of men 
who had been sheriffs, marshals, deputy sheriffs and deputy marshals. 
Three of the higher ofiScers in the regiment had served in the regular 
army. One was Major Alexander Brodie, from Arizona, who afterwards 
became Lieutenant-Colonel; Captain, afterwards Major, Jenkins, and 
the gallant Captain Allyn Capron, whom Mr. Eoosevelt considered the 
best soldier in the regiment. But whether Easterner, Westerner, 
Northerner, or Southerner, officer or man, cowboy or college graduate, 
each "possessed in common the trait of hardihood and the thirst for ad- 
venture—they were to a man born adventurers in every sense of the 
word. ' ' 

To Wood and Eoosevelt fell the task of teaching these men the duties 
of a soldier and of molding them together into a uniform body of dis- 
ciplined fighters, and it was owing to their patience and industry that 
when the time came for the regiment to sail-for Cuba these raw recruits 
had mastered all the intricacies of foot and mounted drill and bore 
every appearance of regular troops. 

On Sunday, May 29th, the regiment broke camp at San Antonio, 
which had been the recruiting station, and took the cars for TamjDa. With 
the first three sections went Colonel Wood, Colonel Eoosevelt following 
with the remaining four ; and several days later they arrived at Tampa. 
Here for several days the regiment worked with great perseverance in 
perfecting itself in skirmish and mounted drill. On the evening of June 
7th orders were received that the expedition was to start from Port 
Tampa, nine miles distant, at daybreak the following morning, and if 
the men were not on board their transports by that time they would not be 
allowed to go. It was not, however, until five days later that the fleet 
weighed anchor and steamed to the southwest, and on the morning of 
June 22d landed at Daiquiri, the village having first been shelled by the 
smaller gunboats. The afternoon of the following day the Eough Eiders 
received orders to march. 

Just before leaving Tampa the Eough Eiders had been brigaded with 
the First (white) and the Tenth (colored) Eegular Cavalry under 
Brigadier-General Young, as the Second Brigade. The First Brigade 
consisted of the Third and Sixth (white) and the Ninth (colored) Eegular 



ROOSEVELT— THE ROUGH RIDER. 133 

Cavalry under Brigadier-General Smnner. These two brigades were 
under the command of General Joseph Wheeler, the celebrated Confed- 
erate leader. 

ON CUBAN SOIL, 

After landing at Daiquiri, the Eough Eiders marched about a mile 
inland and camped. In the meantime General Lawton, who afterwards 
lost his life in the Philiijpines, had taken the advance and established 
outposts, and General Wheeler, who had made a reconnoisance and lo- 
cated the position of the enemy, directed General Young to take the Sec- 
ond Brigade and push forward. 

The march began about the middle of the afternoon, and about dark, 
after a weary tramp beneath a scorching tropical sun, the troops arrived 
at the town of Siboney. At sunrise the next morning. General Young, 
acting under General Wheeler 's orders, with four troops of the Tenth and 
four of the First Cavalry, began the march along the valley road 
which led to Santiago, while Colonel Wood led the Eough Eiders along 
a hill trail to the left, which joined the main road about four miles farther 
on, at a point where it went over the mountain. 

THE BATTLE OF LA QUASSINA. 

This place, where the two trails met, was known as La Quassina, and 
it was at this point that the Spanish had taken up their position. The 
Spanish fortification consisted of breastworks flanked by block-houses, 
and after General Young had arrived and made a careful examination 
of the Spanish position, he placed his battery in concealment about a 
thousand yards from the Spanish line, deployed the white regulars with 
the colored regulars in support, and after he had given time for Colonel 
Wood to arrive, opened the battle. The jungle was extremely dense, and 
as the Spaniards used smokeless jDOwder, it was almost impossible to 
locate tliem, but the advance was pushed forward rapidly, and in the 
face of heavy firing the American troops climbed the ridges and drove 
the Spaniards from their intrenchraents. In the meantime, Colonel 
Eoosevelt and his Eough Eiders had commenced their advance. The 
way lay up a very steep hill, and numbers of the men, exhausted from 



134 ROOSEVELT— THE ROUGH RIDER. 

their march of the day before, had either dropped their bundles or fallen 
out of line, so that less than 500 men went into action. 

MADE NO OUTCEY WHEK HIT. 

"We could hear the Hotchkiss guns and the reply of two Spanish 
guns, and the Mauser bullets were singing through the trees over our 
heads, making a noise like the humming of telephone wires, but exactly 
where they came from we could not tell," said the Colonel of the Eough 
Riders in describing the fight. ' ' The Spaniards were firing hi^h and for 
the most part by volleys, and their shooting was not very good. Gradu- 
ally, however, they began to get the range, and occasionally one of our 
men would crumple up. In no case did the men make an outcry when hit, 
seeming to take it as a matter of course ; at ths outside making only such 
a remark as, 'Well, I got it that time.' " 

Capron's troop took the lead, closely followed by Wood and Roose- 
velt at the bead of the other three troops of the Third Squadron, and 
then came Br.odie at the head of his squadron. After the Spaniards had 
been driven from their position on the right, the firing slackened soane- 
what until the enemy's outposts were located near the advance guard, 
when a brisk skirmish ensued, with the result that the enemy disappeared 
through the jungle to their main line in the rear, 

DEATH OF FISH AND CAPEON. 

"Here," says Mr. Roosevelt, "at the very outset of our active service, 
we suffered the loss of two as gallant men as ever wore uniforms. Ser- 
geant Hamilton Fish, at the extreme front, while holding the point to 
its work and firing back where the Spanish advance guard lay, was shot 
and instantly killed ; three of the men with him were likewise hit. Captain 
Capron, leading the advance guard in person, and displaying equal 
courage and coolness in the way that he handled them, was also struck, 
and died a few minutes afterwards. While I had led the troop back to 
the trail, I ran ahead of them, passing the dead and wounded men of 
L Troop. 

A HAIL OF BULLETS. 

"When I came to the front I found the men spread out in a very thin 
skirmish line, advancing through comparatively open ground, each man 



ROOSEVELT— THE ROUGH RIDER. 185 

taking advantage of what cover he could, while Wood strode about lead- 
ing his horse, Brodie being close at hand. How Wood escaped being hit 
I do not see, and still less how his horse escaped. I had left mine at the 
beginning of the action, and was only regretting that I had not left my 
sword with it, as it kept getting between my legs as I was making my way 
through the jungle. Very soon after I reached the front, Brodie was hit, 
the bullet shattering one arm and whirling him round as he stood. There- 
upon Wood directed me to take charge of the left wing in Brodie 's place 
and bring it forward. A perfect hail of bullets was sweeping over us as 
we advanced. Once I got a glimpse of some Spaniards, apparently re- 
treating far to the front and to our right, and we fired a couple of rounds 
after them. Then I became convinced, after much anxious study, that 
we were being fired at from some large red-tiled buildings, part of a 
ranch on our front. Smokeless powder and a thin cover in our front 
continued to puzzle us, and I more than once consulted anxiously the 
officers as to the exact whereabouts of our opponents. I took a rifle from 
a wounded man and began to try shooting with it myself. It was very hot 
and the men were getting exhausted, though at this particular time we 
were not suffering heavily from bullets, the Spaniards' fire going 
too high. 

EMPTY CAETEIDGE SHELLS AND TWO DEAD SPANIARDS. 

"As we advanced the cover became a little thicker and I lost sight of 
the main body under Wood; soon I halted and we fired industriously at 
the ranch buildings ahead of us, some 500 yards off. Then we heard 
repeating rifles on the right, and I supposed that this meant a battle on 
!he part of Wood's men, so I sprang up and ordered the men to rush the 
buildings ahead of us; they came forward with a will. There was a 
moment of heavy firing from the Spaniards, which all went over our 
heads, and then ceased entirely. When we arrived at the buildings, 
panting and out of breath, they contained nothing but heaps of empty 
cartridge shells and two Spaniards shot through the head." 

THE KILLED AND WOUNDED. 

The Rough Eiders lost eight men killed and thirty-four wounded in 
the last La Quassina fight. The First Cavalry lost seven men killed and 



136 ROOSEVELT— THE ROUGH RIDER. 

eight wounded. The Tenth Cavalry, one man killed and ten wounded. 
After the charge the regiment moved on a few miles and went into camp. 
The same day General Young was attacked by a fever and General Wood 
took charge of the brigade ; this left Colonel Roosevelt in charge of the 
regiment. On June 30th, the Rough Riders received orders to march 
against Santiago, and at once struck camp and, led by the First and 
Tenth Cavalry, began to move toward the Spanish city. After march- 
ing until about eight o'clock Colonel Roosevelt's men went into camp 
on El Paso Hill. No orders had been given except to the effect that the 
infantry under General Lawton was to capture El Caney, while Colonel 
Roosevelt's force was merely to make a diversion mainly with the artil- 
lery. Finding that his force was directly in line of the Spanish fire, which 
was made very evident by shells which began to burst in their midst. 
General Wood formed his brigade and, with the Rough Riders in front, 
ordered Colonel Roosevelt to follow behind the First Brigade, which was 
just then moving off the ground. Colonel Roosevelt was then ordered to 
cross the ford of the San Juan River, march half a mile to the right and 
then halt and await further orders. Meantime the battle was on and the 
Spaniards on the hills were firing in volleys. 

THE SPANIAEDS' FIEE PRACTICALLY UNAIMED. 

Colonel Roosevelt says that while his troops were lying in reserve 
they suffered nearly as much as afterwards when they charged. In his 
opinion the bulk of the Spaniards' fire was practically unaimed, or at 
least not aimed at any particular man, and only occasionally at a par- 
ticular body of men ; but they swept the whole field of battle up to the 
edge of the river, and man after man in his ranks fell dead or wounded, 
although he had his troops scattered far about, taking advantage of 
every scrap of cover. Finally Colonel Roosevelt received orders to move 
forward and support the regulars in the assault on the hills in front. 

HIS CROWDED HOUR BEGAN, 

"The instant I received the order," says Colonel Roosevelt, "I sprang 
on my horse and then my crowded hour began. Guerrillas had been 
shooting at us from the hedges and from their perches in the leafy trees, 



ROOSEVELT— THE ROUGH RIDER. 137 

and as they used smokeless powder it was almost impossible to see 
them, though a few of my men had from time to time responded. They 
had also moved from the hill on the right, which was held chiefly by 
guerrillas, although there were also some Spanish regulars with them, 
for we found them dead. I formed my men in columns of troops, each 
troop extended in open skirmishing order, the right resting on the wire 
fences which bore on the sunken land. The Ninth and First Regiments 
went up Kettle Hill with the Eough Riders, and General Sumner giving 
the Tenth the order to charge, the Third Regiment went forward, keep- 
ing up a heavy fire. ' ' 

Colonel Roosevelt then adressed the captain in command of the rear 
platoon, saying that he had been ordered to support the regulars in the 
attack upon the hills, and that in his judgment they could not take these 
hills by firing on them ; that they must rush them. The officer answered 
that his orders were to keep his men lying where they were and that 
he could not charge without orders. He asked where the Colonel was, 
and as he was not in sight, Colonel Roosevelt said : "I am the ranking 
officer here, and I give the order to charge," for he did not want to keep 
the rpen longer in the open, suffering under a fire that they could not 
return. The officer again hesitated, but Colonel Roosevelt rode on 
through the lines, followed by his Rough Riders. This proved too much 
for the regulars, and they followed after. 

GAVE THE ORDER TO CHARGE. 

When the Rough Riders came to where the head of the left wing of 
the Ninth was lying, Colonel Roosevelt gave the order to charge the hill 
on his right front, and the line, tired of waiting, obeyed the command 
with alacrity at once. Immediately after the hill was covered by Ameri- 
can troops, consisting of Rough Riders and the colored troops of the 
Ninth, together with some men of the First ; but no sooner had they cap- 
tured the position than the Spaniards opened a heavy fire upon them with 
rifles, while several pieces of artillery threw shells with considerable 
effect into their midst. From this vantage ground Colonel Roosevelt 
could observe the charge on the San Juan block-house on his left, and he 
decided to gather his men together and start them volley-firing against 
the Spaniards in the block-house and in the trenches around it. 



138 ROOSEVELT— THE ROUGH RIDER. 

"The infantry got nearer and nearer the crest of the hill," says Mr. 
Roosevelt, in his account of the battle. "At last we could see the Span- 
iards running from the rifle-pits as the Americans came on in their final 
rush. Then I stopped my men for fear they should injure their comrades, 
and called to them to charge the next line of trenches, on the hills in our 
front, from which we had been uodergoing a good deal of punishment. 
Thinking that the men would all come, I jumped over the wire fence in 
front of us and started at the double ; but, as a matter of fact, the troopers 
were so excited, what with shooting and being shot, and shouting and 
cheering, that they did not hear, or did not heed me; and after running 
about a hundred yards I found I had only five men along with me. 

A MISUNDERSTOOD ORDER. 

"Bullets were ripping the grass all around us, and one of the men, 
Clay Green, was mortally wounded ; another, Winslow Clark, a Harvard 
man, was shot first in the leg and then through the body. He made not the 
slightest murmur, only asking me to put his water canteen where he 
could get at it, which I did; he ultimately recovered. There was no use 
going on with the remaining three men, and I bade them stay where they 
were while I went back and brought up the rest of the brigade. This was 
a decidedly cool request, for there was really no possible point in letting 
them stay there while I went back^ but at the moment it seemed perfectly 
natural to me, and apparently so to them, for they cheerfully nodded, and 
sat down in the grass, firing back at the line of trenches from which the 
Spaniards were shooting at them. 

"lead on, we'll follow you," 
' ' Meanwhile, I ran back, jumped over the wire fence, and went over 
the crest of the hill, filled with anger against the troopers, and especially 
those of my own regiment, for not having accompanied me. They, of 
course, were quite innocent of wrong-doing, and even while I taunted 
them bitterly for not having followed me, it was all I could do not to 
smile at the look of inquiry and surprise that came over their faces, while 
they cried out, 'We didn't hear you, we didn't see you go. Colonel; lead 
on now, we'll sure follow you.' I wanted the other regiments to come, 
too . 60 1 ran down to where General Sumner was and asked him if I might 



ROOSEVELT—THE ROUGH RIDER. 139 

make the charge, and he told me to go and that he would see that the men 
followed. 

"By this time everybody had his attention attracted, and when I 
leaped over the fence again, with Major Jenkins beside me, the men of the 
various regiments which were already on the hill came with a rush, and 
we started across the wide valley which lay between us and the Spanish 
intrenchments. Captain Dimmick, now in command of the Ninth, was 
bringing it forward; Captain McBIain had a number of Eough Riders 
mixed in with his troop, and led them all together; Captain Taylor had 
been severely wounded. The long-legged men like Greenwaj'', Goodrich, 
sharpshooter ProflSt, and others, outstripped the rest of us, as we had a 
considerable distance to go. Long before we got near them the Spaniards 
ran, save a few here and there, who either surrendered or were shot 
down. When we reached the trenches we found them filled with dead 
bodies in the light blue and white uniform of the Spanish regular army. 
There were very few wounded. Most of the fallen had little holes in 
their heads, from which their brains were oozing ; for they were covered 
from the neck down by the trenches. 

KILLS A SPANIAED. 

"It was at this place that Major Wessels, of the Third Cavalry, was 
shot in the back of the head. It was a severe wound, but after having it 
bound up he again came to the front in command of his regiment. Among 
the men who were foremost was Lieutenant Milton E. Davis of the First 
Cavalry. He had been joined by three men of the Seventy-first New 
York, who ran up, and saluting, said, 'Lieutenant, we want to go with 
you. Our officers won't lead us.' One of the brave fellows was soon after- 
wards shot in the face. Lieutenant Davis' first sergeant, C'arenoe Gould, 
jailed a Spanish soldier with his revolver, just as the Spaniard was aim- 
ing at one of my Rough Riders. 

"At about the same time I also shot one. I was with Henry Eardshar, 
running up at the double, and two Spaniards leaped from the trenches 
and fired at us, not ten yards away. As they turned to run I closed in 
and fired twice, missing the first and killing the second. My revolver was 
from the sunken battleship Maine, and had been given me by my brother- 



140 ROOSEVELT— THE ROUGH RIDER. 

in-law, Captain W. S. Cowles, of the Navy. At the time I did not know 
of Gould's exploit, and supposed my feat to be unique; and although 
Gould had killed his Spaniard in the trenches, not very far from me, I 
never learned of it until weeks after. It is astonishing what a limited 
area of vision and experience one has in the hurly-burly of a battle. 



BLACK AND WHITE SOLDIERS MIXED. 

"There was very great confusion at this time, the different regiments 
being completely intermingled— white regulars, colored regulars, and 
Eough Eiders. General Sumner had kept a considerable force in reserve 
on Kettle Hill, under Major Jackson, of the Third Cavalry. "We were still 
under a heavy fire, and I got together a mixed lot of men and pushed on 
from the trenches and ranch-houses which we had just taken, driving the 
Spaniards through a line of palm trees and over the crests of a chain 
of hills. 

OVEELOOKED SANTIAGO. 

"When we reached these crests we found ourselves overlooking San- 
tiago. Some of the men, including Jenkins, Greenway, and Goodrich, 
pushed on almost by themselves far ahead. Lieutenant Hugh Berkely, 
of the First, with a sergeant and two troopers, reached the extreme front. 
He was, at the time, ahead of every one ; the sergeant was killed and one 
trooper wounded ; but the lieutenant and the remaining trooper stuck to 
their post for the rest of the afternoon, until our line was gradually ex- 
tended to include them. 

""While I was re-forming the troops on the chain of hills, one of Gen- 
eral Sumner's aides came up with orders to me to halt where I was, not 
advancing farther, but to hold the hill at all hazards." 

Colonel Roosevelt says that in the attack on the San Juan hills his 
regiment lost eighty-nine killed and wounded; the loss of the entire 
American forces being 1,071 killed and wounded. "I think we suffered 
more heavily than the Spaniards did in the killed and wounded," says 
Colonel Eoosevelt. "It would have been very extraordinary if the re- 
verse was the case." 



ROOSEVELT— THE ROUGH RIDER. 141 

THE SUKKENDEB OF SANTIAGO. 

Every one is familiar with the events following the charge up San 
Juan Hill and preceding the capture of Santiago— the suffering in the 
crowded trenches, the hours of weary waiting and desultory fighting, in 
all of which the Rough Eiders did their part with the precision of regu- 
lars. On the 17th of July, the city of Santiago formally surrendered, 
after which the cavalry was marched back to the foot of the hill west of 
El Caney, and there went to camp. 

Many of the Rough Riders had already been stricken down with fever, 
and in the new camp matters grew worse in a very short time. Over 50 
per cent were unfit for any kind of work ; all their clothing was in rags ; 
even the officers were without stockings and underwear. Yellow fever 
then broke out, but chiefly among the Cubans, and, owing to the panic 
caused by the dread of this disease, the authorities at Washington hesi- 
tated to order the army to return to the United States, fearing that it 
might introduce the plague into the country. General Shafter then sum- 
moned a council of officers, hoping by united action to induce the govern- 
ment to take some active step toward relieving the army at Santiago 
from destruction. 

THE CELEBRATED ROUND ROBIN. 

Finally the "Round Robin," signed by Colonel Roosevelt and all the 
other officers, was made public. As Mr. Riis says, this celebrated com- 
munication "startled the American people and caused measures of in- 
stant relief to be set on foot, the fearful truth that the army was perish- 
ing from privation and fever was not known. The cry it sent up was. 
' Take us home. We will fight for the flag to the last man if need be. But 
now our fighting is done, we will not be left here to die. ' It was signifi- 
cant that the duty of making the unwelcome disclosure fell to the Colonel 
of the Rough Riders. Of all the officers who signed it he was the young- 
est ; but from no one could the warning have come with greater force. The 
Colonel of the Rough Riders, at the head of his men on San Juan Hill, 
much as I like the picture, is not half so heroic a figure to me as Roosevelt 
in this hour of danger and doubt, shouldering the blame for the step he 
knew to be right. 



142 




gS!^ 






KArrlK MAN AND WOMAN. 



CHAPTER X. 

ROOSEVELT'S FIRST EXPERIENCE AS AN AFRICAN 

HUNTER. 

He Kills a Gnu or Wild Beast — Despatches Three Lions in One Day — Kermit Makes an Ex- 
pedition on His Own Hook— Smallpox Scare in the Camp — Other Thrilling Incidents. 

ROOSEVELT'S first night under canvas in Africa was spent in 
the camp set up for the expedition in the vicinity of the railroad 
station at Kapoto Plains. Nothing disturbed the stillness of the 
tropical night except the monotonous concert of the beasts of prey, chief 
among whom was the lion, whose awe-inspiring roar, like the rumble of 
a distant thunder, when slowly dying away in repeated echoes among 
the mountains, sent an exerting thrill through the mighty hunter's heart. 

The next morning he arose in splendid spirits and spent the day 
assorting his baggage and outfit, while his son Kermit, with some other 
membeis of the party, went out to try their luck with the rifles and 
succeeded in bringing down one antelope. "PuUy, bully," exclaimed 
the ex-President with a face beaming from pleasure when the booty 
was laid at his feet. 

He forbade the members of the expedition to give out any reports 
as to his movements and allowed only one representative of an Eng- 
lish news agency and some American reporters to accompany him. This 
inspired the Nairobi newspapers to make a venomous attack on Roose- 
velt and the acting governor, and caused the British government to ask 
tor an explanation from the local authorities. 

A fine weather favored Roosevelt's first hunt, and he had many 
reasons to be "delighted," for he bagged two wildebeests and one gazelle 
the first day. 

Next to the monkey, says an African traveler, I believe the gnu or 
wildebeest is the most inquisitive of all animals. A hunter often comes 
apon herds of twenty to fifty. As soon as they caught sight of us, he 

143 



144 ROOSEVELT AS AN AFRICAN HUNTER. 

continues, they would begin curveting around the wagons, wheeling 
about in endless circles and cutting all sorts of curious capers. 

While I was riding hard to obtain a shot at a herd in front of me, other 
herds charged down wind on my right and left, and, having described a 
number of circular movements, they took up position upon the very 
ground across which I had ridden only a few minutes before. Singly, 
and in small troops of four or five individuals, the old bull wildebeests 
may be seen stationed at intervals throughout the plains, standing mo- 
tionless during a whole forenoon, coolly watching with a philosophic eye 
the movements of the other game, uttering a loud snorting noise, and 
also a short sharp cry which is peculiar to them. When the hunter ap- 
proaches these old bulls, they commence whisking their long white tails 
in a most eccentric manner ; then, springing into the air, begin prancing 
and capering, and pursue each other in circles at their utmost speeds 
Suddenly they all pull up together to overhaul the intruder, when the 
bulls will often commence fighting in the most violent manner, dropping 
on their knees at every shock ; then, quickly wheeling about, they kick 
up their heels, whirl their tails with a fantastic flourish, and scour across 
the plain enveloped in a cloud of dust. In addition to their speed, wilde- 
beest are remarkable for their extreme tenacity of life ; and, owing to the 
vigorous use they make of their horns, are awkward creatures to hunt 
with dogs. Europeans find them good practice in rifle-shooting, as they 
will stand in herds at a distance which they think secure, say three 
hundred or four hundred yards, and watch the passer-by. Only occar 
sionally can they be approached within easy range by fair stalking; 
although they may be killed by watching at their drinking-holes at night. 
During a thunderstorm of unusual intensity, I walked, hardly knowing 
where I was going, right into a herd of gnu. I did not see them until 
I was almost among them ; but even had my gun not be&n hopelessly 
soaked, the fearful storm made self-preservation, and not destruction, 
one's chief thought. They were standing huddled in a mass, their heads 
together, and their sterns outwards, and they positively only just moved 
out of my way, much the same as a herd of cattle might have done. 

The faculty of curiosity is largely developed in the gnu, which can 
never resist the temptation of inspecting any strange object, although 




AN EAST AFRICAN TUSKER KILLED BY THE HUNTERS. 




THE HEAD OF AN EAST AFRICAN RHINOCEROS ON ITS WAY TO THE 



ROOSEVELT AS AN AFRICAN HUNTER. 145 

at the risk of its life. When a gnu first catches sight of any -anknown 
being, he sets off at full speed, as if desirous of getting to the furthest 
possible distance from the terrifying object. Soon, however, the feeling 
of curiosity vanquishes the passion of fear, and the animal halts to 
reconnoitre. He then gallops in a circle round the cause of his dread. 

The native hunters are enabled to attract a herd of gnus, feeding out 
of shot, merely by getting up a clumsy imitation of an ostrich, by hold- 
ing a head of that bird on a pole, and making at their back a peacock's 
tail of feathers. The inquisitive animals are so fascinated with the 
fluttering lure, that they actually approach so near as to be easily pierced 
with an arrow or an assegai. 

The gnu, or wildebeest, inhabits Africa. At first sight it is difficult 
to say whether the horse, buffalo, or deer predominates in its form. It, 
however, belongs to neither of these animals, but is one of the bovine 
antelopes. The horns cover the top of the forehead, and then, sweeping 
downwards over the face, turn boldly upwards with a sharp curve. The 
neck is furnished with a mane like that of the horse, and the legs are 
formed like those of a stag. 

His next victim was what is known as a Thompson gazelle. It was 
secured after several hours ' hunt, from which the members of the party 
returned to the camp tired and exhausted. 

The gazelle is regarded as the embodiment of grace and beauty, and 
is celebrated in song and story. It is usually of a sandy color and has a 
white streak on the side of the face from the base of the horn nearly to 
the nose, thus cutting off a dark triangular patch in the middle of the 
forehead, while the streak itself is bordered by a dark line. The horns, 
which are generally present in both sexes, are recurved and completely 
ringed throughout the greater part of their length. Most of the gazelles 
do not exceed thirty inches in height, although the mohr reaches thirty- 
six inches. There are about twenty-one living species. 

The gazelle so famous in Oriental poetry inhabits Arabia and Syria. 
Its eyes are very large, dark and lustrous, so that the Oriental poets love 
to compare the eyes of a woman to those of a gazelle, just as Homer con- 
stantly applied the epithet ox-eyed to the more majestic goddesses, such 
as Juno and Minerva. It is easily tamed when young, and is frequently 



146 ROOSEVELT AS AN AFRICAN HUNTER. 

seen domesticated in the court yards of houses in Syria. Its swiftness 
is so great that even a greyhound cannot overtake it, and the hunters 
are forced to make use of hawks, which are trained to strike at the head 
of the gazelle, and thus confuse it and retard its speed, so as to permit 
the dogs to come up. The color of this pretty little animal is a dark 
yellowish brown, fading into white on the under parts. 

A peculiar gazelle, known as the gerenuk, or Waller's gazelle, in- 
habits Eastern Africa, and is remarkable for the great length of its 
neck, which has been likened to a miniature giraffe. 

The gerenuk is found all over the Somali country' in small families, 
never in large herds, and generally in scattered bush, ravines and rocky 
ground. I have never seen it in the cedar-forests, nor in the treeless 
plains. Gerenuk are not necessarily found near water; in fact, gen- 
erally in stony- ground with a sprinkling of thorn-jungle. Its gait is 
peculiar. When first seen, a buck gerenuk will generally be standing 
motionless, head well up, looking at the intruder, and trusting to its 
invisibility. Then the head dives under the bushes, and the animal goes 
off at a long, crouching trot, stopping now and again behind some bush 
to gaze. The trot is awkward-looking, and very like that of a camel; 
the gerenuk seldom gallops, and its pace is never very fast. In the whole 
shape of the head and neck, and in the slender lower jaw, there is a 
marked resemblance between the gerenuk and the dibatag. It subsists 
more by browsing than by grazing and it may not unfrequently be ob- 
served standing up on its hind-legs, with outstretched neck, and its fore- 
feet resting against the trunk of a tree, in order to pluck the foliage. 

A beautiful species of gazelle is the Dorcas, found in Egypt and Bar- 
bary, where it lives in large troops upon the borders of the cultivated 
country, and also in the deserts. When pursued it flies to some dis- 
tance, then stops to gaze a moment at the hunters, and again renews 
its flight. The flock, when attacked collectively, disperse in all direc- 
tions, but soon unite, and when brought to bay defend themselves 
with courage and obstinacy, uniting in a close circle, with the females 
and fawns in the center, and presenting their horns at all points to their 
enemies ; yet, notwithstanding their courage, they are the common prey 
of the lion and panther and are hunted with great perseverance. 



CHAPTER XI. 

ROOSEVELT'S REMARKABLE SKILL AS A HUNTER. 

Exciting Encounters with a Bull Rhinoceros — The First Elephant Falls for His Never Failine 
Bullet — Giraffes, Leopards and Other Beasts Bagged — Cubs Captured Alive. 

ROOSEVELT 'S success as a hunter in Africa during the first four 
months has already proved to be a record-breaking chain of sur- 
prising achievements. The first three months' hunting yielded 
42 head of big game and among whom were seven lions, ten rhinoceros, 
4 hippopotami, 4 giraffes, 3 wildebeests, 5 buffalos and one elephant. 

During this brilliant career as a beast killer Roosevelt has time and 
again risked his life, and his success has been due to his undaunted cour- 
age, unerring aim and exceptional presence of mind. 

All of these qualities of his combined brought death to a large bull 
rhinoceros near Machabos. 

The long, low, uncouth-looking beast, of some five feet in height at 
the shoulder, and shaped much like an immense hog, came running full 
tilt at our nimrod. 

The short, upright horn on the snout, the contour of the animal, and 
the loose folds of skin that covered his ribs, the maddened squeal that was 
heard above the snapping of the bush, proclaimed the arrival of the most 
dangerous of all wild animals, the African rhinoceros. 

Roosevelt's resolution was taken in an instant. He must either kill 
the bull, or be killed himself aknost inevitably. He was not ten feet from 
him when- 
One flash ! It was enough ! Struck through the brain the old bull 
dropped instantaneously, and the ex-President was safe. 

The rhinoceros is a favorite game in Africa. It has a ferocious dis- 
position and is hard to kill. The easiest and least dangerous method is 
for the hunter to conceal himself and shoot it when it comes to drink at 
the pool. The true sportsman prefers to hunt it on horseback with dogs. 

147 



148 



ROOSEVELT'S REMARKABLE SKILL. 



As the eyes of the rhinoceros are very small, it seldom turns its head 
and therefore sees nothing but what is before it. It is to this that it 
owes its death, and never escapes if there be so much plain as to enable 
the horses of the hunters to get before it. Its pride and fury then makes 
it lay aside all thoughts of escaping, except by victory over its enemy. 
For a moment it stands at bay ; then at a start runs straight forward at 
the horse which is nearest. The rider easily avoids the attack by turn- 
)^ig short to one side. This is the fatal instant; a naked man who ia 




ONE FLASH ! AND THE OLD BULL LAY AT THE EX-PBESIDENT S FEET. 



mounted behind the principal horseman, drops off the horse, and, unseeii 
by the rhinoceros, gives it, with a sword a stroke across the tendon of the 
heel, which renders it incapable either of flight or resistance. 

Several travelers have mentioned that there are certain birds whieh 
constantly attend the rhinoceros, and give him warning of approaching 
danger. Thieir accotints were either reweived with silemt crdntempl;, or 



ROOSEVELT'S REMARKABLE SKILL. 149 

treated with open ridicule, as preposterous extensions of the traveler's 
privilege of romancing. I can bear witness to the truth of these reports, 
says a famous sportsman. Once while hunting the rhinoceros in Africa, 
I saw a huge female lying in the jungle asleep. My first thought was to 
photograph her and then attack her. I began to crawl toward her, but 
before I could reach the proper distance several rhinoceros-birds, by 
which she was attended, warned her of the impending danger, by sticking 
their bills into her ear, and uttering their harsh, grating cry. Thus 
aroused, she suddenly sprang to her feet, and crashed away through 
the jungle at a rapid trot, and I saw no more of her. 

Next to the elephant in size, comes the rhinoceros, which with the 
hippopotamus, lays claim to bulk and ferocity unequalled by any other 
member of the animal kingdom. The rhinoceros is found in the rivers of 
Central Africa and Southern Asia. It can only live in tropical climates. 

The length of the rhinoceros is usually about twelve feet, and this is 
also nearly the girth of its body. The skin, which is of a blackish color, is 
disposed, about the neck, into large plaits or folds. A fold of the same 
kind passes from the shoulders to the fore legs ; another from the hind 
part of the back to the thighs. The skin is naked, rough, and covered 
with a kind of tubercles, or large callous granulations. Between the 
folds, and under the belly, it is soft, and of a light rose-color. The horns 
are composed of a closely-packed mass of horn fibers, growing from the 
skin, and having no connection with the bones of the skull, although there 
are prominences on the latter beneath each horn. All are mainly abroad 
at night, and while some resemble the tapirs in frequenting tall grass- 
jungles and swampy districts, others seem to prefer the open plains. 

Some himters have created the impression that the hide of the rhinoc- 
eros will turn a leaden bullet and sometimes an iron one. This is a 
popular error, for a common leaden ball will pierce the hide at a dis- 
tance of thirty or forty paces, especially if a double charge of powder be 
used, which is the custom with all rhinoceros hunters. The most deadly 
aim is just behind the shoulder. The skull is too thick and the brain 
pan too small for a successful shot at the head. 

The killing of the huge rhinoceros bull which was of unusual size 
and no doubt is one of the most valuable specimens in the Smithsonian 



150 ROOSEVELT'S REMARKABLE SKILU 

collection called forth repeated cheers for Bwana Tambo from the 
sonorous throats of the natives. 

The African elephant is a more dangerous animal than the Indian, 
and is more ready to charge. The first one killed by Eoosevelt was a 
huge animal and the leader of a herd of about a dozen. At a distance 
of forty feet Eoosevelt struck its heart and it went over dead. A baby 
elephant was captured an hour later and sent over to the New York 
Zoological Garden. The Arabs slay the elephant by hamstringing it 
with a long two-edged sword. They follow the animal until it faces its 
pursuers and prepares to charge. The hunter then puts his horse to a 
gallop, closely followed by the elephant. They follow at their best pace, 
and as soon as they come up with the fleeing animal, one leaps to the 
ground, and with one blow of his huge sword divides the tendon of the 
elephant's leg a short distance above the heel. The ponderous beast is 
at once brought to a standstill, and is at the mercy of his aggressors. 

A leopard or African Panther was killed by our ex-President during 
the hunt and its cubs captured alive. The animal was dispatched at a 
distance of only six paces and already had mauled a beater and was 
charging Kermit when the fatal shot was fired. 

Among the reptiles killed by Eoosevelt was a python, measuring 23 
feet. It was quietly making a meal of an antelope when the bullet struck 
it back of the head, cutting a vertebra. The naturalists of the party had 
collected two other pythons and four hundred birds and animals. 

In Nairobi a splendid reception had been planned in his honor, but 
had to be abandoned owing to his expressed desire to spend the time writ- 
ing. Half the distance Eoosevelt rode with Major Mearns on the loco- 
motive cowcatcher, for about 22 miles, and the scenery along the road 
delighted him, especially the Escarpment and the Eift Valley. 

The highest point reached was the Kikuyu escarpment— 7,830 feet— 
from where Eoosevelt had a magnificent view down 2,000 feet into the 
great Eift Valley, where elephants, monkeys, etc., are plentiful, but 
fairly safe from the hunter owing to the thickness of the growth. 



CHAPTER XII. 

ROOSEVELT'S THRILLING EXPERIENCES. 

How Col. Roosevelt Hunted Lions — Exciting Adventures with Elephants, Rhipoceri, Hippo- 
potami, Lions, Etc. — Hunting Big Game Hard, Strenuous Work — The Colonel a Mighty 
Hunter — Saved from Death in the Nick of Time — Kermit a Good Shot — What the Small- 
pox Scare Revealed — Loring and Mearns Climb Mount Kenia — Col. Roosevelt Discovers 
New Animal — Last Stage of the Hunting Trip — Smithsonian Institute Receives Greatest 
Collection of Specimens in the World. 

By J. T. Thompson. 

In hunting lions Col. Eoosevelt took with him a great many natives 
^med with bows and arrows who beat the bush, raise a noise and drive 
the lion from his lair. Dogs formed the vanguard of the shooting party 
which was accompanied by gunbearers, for the lion is so quick in attack 
that even an expert hunter has no time to reload his gun after a shot. 
Col. Roosevelt shot his lions at a distance of from 60 to 150 yards. His 
habit was to put three bullets into it, one in the chest as he faced him, 
one in the withers as he turned to run and one in the back to break the 
vertebrae. The order of the shots depended upon the lion 's attitude. 

Many of the Colonel's first shots broke the lion's backs, although 
as many as five shots were necessary to dispatch one huge brute, the 
additional two shots being fired, one each by Sir Alfred Pease and 
Kermit Roosevelt. 

One of the interesting bits about the distinguished Colonel's lion 
shooting in the Kapiti Country was that Lady Pease accompanied the 
party on all its lion hunts and saw the ex-President shoot all his lions 
and never flinched during the critical moments of the hunt, which are 
many, and sorely try even experienced hunters. 

Elephant hunting is the most fascinating of all Big Game pursuits 
because of the element of danger in connection with it. It is considered, 
that everything being equal, the chances are about even for the hunter 
and the hunted. It is not a pleasure trip, nor is it a task for any but 
the most seasoned and nervy hunters. The hunter must be in th« saddle 

151 



152 ROOSEVELT'S THRILLING EXPERIENCES. 

at dawn and ride to the feeding grounds of this animal, when a herd 
is sighted the real work begins as one must creep, sometimes for a mile 
until they get to within twenty or thirty feet of them, or even nearer, 
and of course, if they get the wind or hear the hunter, the chances of 
escape are small. An elephant charging a hunter at so short a distance 
covers the ground quickly and to elude it one must be very quick and 
shoot straight and true. Col. Eoosevelt secured his first elephant in the 
Kenia District, he was anxious to do this so that there would be better 
chances of preserving the skin in good condition in this cooler climate. 
There are larger and better elephants in the Nile Country of Uganda 
but the Colonel thought it unwise to wait until then when there was a 
good chance to get one in the Kenia District. 

KOOSEVELT CHARGED BY INFURIATED ELEPHANT. 

Col. Eoosevelt accompanied by Mr. Cunninghame the big game 
hunter and guide crawled into a herd of elephants about thirty feet from 
a big bull he wanted to kill. He killed the elephant at the second shot. 
Suddenly before the Colonel could reload another bull charged him at 
close range from the herd. Both hunters quickly dodged behind trees, 
and Mr. Cunninghame fired and turned the bull from Mr. Eoosevelt 
just in time to save his life. It was a close shave. 

IN A TIGHT PLACE. 

One of the Eoosevelt party while in the Mweru District had an ex- 
perience that would test the ability and mettle of any hunter in the 
world and came off victorious. He was out hunting with only a native 
gun bearer Avhen he encountered a charging man-eating lion. He had 
just fired and killed the lion when there came charging at him a large 
rhinoceros. A good shot killed the rhino when to his amazement a huge 
bull elephant came thundering towards him which he also shot dead. 
The whole three of these animals had charged him within a space of 
twenty paces. 

Many strange things happen while hunting in Africa. When Mr. 
Selous and Mr. McMillan, two of the Eoosevelt party were out in the 
Nyeri District accompanied by Mr. Judd, the professional hunter, they 
were after lions one day and Judd was following Mr. Selous on a mule. 



ROOSEVELT'S THRILLING EXPERIENCES. 153 

The grass was long and they did not see a big lion until the mule nearly- 
stepped on it. The mule swerved suddenly and Judd fired from his hip 
with his rifle and almost simultaneously the mule bucked him off and 
he landed almost touching the lion. 

He thought his last hour had come and braced himself to make the 
fight of his life but to his surprise the lion didn't move. After waiting 
for a few minutes for the attack he suddenly realized that the lion was 
dead. He inspected the lion carefully and found that his shot had en- 
tered the eye and killed it instantly without leaving a mark on the skin. 

That there are plenty of lions in the district where Col. Eoosevelt 
hunted is shown by the fact that prior to his visit man-eating lions had 
been playing havoc with the Government's safaris and traders' safaris, 
so that the Government at last was forced to close the road to traffic. 
It is estimated that over one hundred native men, woman and children 
have lost their lives to these man-eaters in the past year. 

LETTERS FROM AMERICA. 

Immediately following Col. Eoosevelt 's arrival in Africa hundreds of 
letters from the United States arrived for him on every steamer. 
These letters contained all kinds of requests including requests 
for live wild animals for zoological gardens, skins of dead animals, 
snakes, birds' eggs, teeth, claws of lions and tigers (the writer evidently 
not knowing that there were no tigers in Africa and that it would 
utterly spoil the value of any specimen to mutilate it by taking out the 
claws and teeth). There were also requests for plants, picture post 
cards, and for all kinds of objects including pickled meat and dried meat 
of game. Of course it was impossible for such requests to be granted 
and also impossible for Col. Roosevelt even to attempt to answer the 
letters, as his time was fully taken up hunting and writing for a 
magazine. 

ROOSEVELT GETS THE ITCH. 

Shortly after the expedition reached the Althi River Country Col. 
Roosevelt got the "Nairobi itch." This particular form of itch consists 
of little red spots all over the body and hands and face, and looks very 
bad but it is really no worse than common American hives. 



154 ROOSEVELT'S THRILLING EXPERIENCES. 

A PRESENT FOE MISS AUCE. 

Two baby antelopes sent by Col. Eoosevelt to bis daughter Alice 
(Mrs. Nicholas Longworth), arrived in New York in the fall of 1909 
on the steamer Vaderland from Antwerp. Captain Burman of the 
vessel kept the little animals on the bridge, and had them fed with milk 
from a bottle on the way over. The antelopes were transferred from 
the Gennan East Africa steamer Admiral to the Vaderland at Antwerp. 

On August 9th, 1909, Col. Eoosevelt and party departed for Nyeri 
wliich is suitated in the Northwest of Kenia Province. The day before 
they left the second consignment of specimens was shipped to the 
Smithsonian Institution, via Mombasa. It contained about 2,500 speci- 
mens of all kinds including birds, mammals, snakes, plants, etc. 

Nyeri is an important trade centre in British East Africa. The 
neighborhood is the headquarters of the Masai tribe, warlike nomads, 
who inhabit the plains in this district. Excellent sport was promised 
the expedition in tliis district and this proved to be true Col. Roosevelt 
getting many fine specimens of antelope, buffalo, etc. 

LOEING AND MEARNS ON AN EXPLORING TRIP. 

On September 3rd, 1909, J. Alden Loring and Major Edgar A. 
Mearns both of the Smithsonian African Expedition in charge of Col. 
Theodore Eoosevelt left Nairobi on an exploring trija in the Province 
of Kenia. They intended to scale Mount Kenia which is the highest 
mountain in this district, being about 17,200 feet in height. This moun- 
tain was ascended for the first time in 1899 by Mackinder. The moun- 
tain has many glaciers and its timber line is at 10,300 feet. Loring and 
Mearns succeeded in getting to within about 700 feet of its summit 
which is covered with snow the year round, although the mountain is 
situated very close to the equator. 

These two members of the party also collected thousands of rare and 
valuable specimens of birds, mammals, etc., and returned to Nairobi 
to rejoin the Colonel and his son Kermit. 

A FIGHT AGAINST ODDS. 

Col. Eoosevelt, attended by two native boatmen, went out on Lake 
Naivasha in a rowboat to shoot hippopotami. The first one encountered 



ROOSEVELT'S THRILLING EXPERIENCES. 155 

was a cow. Before the hunter could shoot the beast snorted angrily. 
In less than a second the water all about the boat was churned to foam 
by the lashings of the other hippopotami which had answered the 
cow's call. 

Some of the huge beasts dove under the boat and tried to upset it 
by coming up under it with their snouts and backs. Others drove 
straight at the boat, with jaws distended, and endeavored to bite out 
the sides. 

The natives cowered in the bottom of the boat, certain their doom 
was at hand, and shrieked loud prayers of suppliction to their pagan 
gods. 

Mr. Eoosevelt, however, kept his feet in the shaking boat and with 
certain aim shot the two finest specimens in the water. Then he clubbed 
the others on the snouts with the butt of his rifle until they gave up 
the fight. 

The animals slain on that hair-raising occasion were a splendid bull 
and an unusually fine cow. 

A BOYAL INVITATION. 

Lidj Jeassu, the Crown Prince of Abyssinia invited Theodore 
Roosevelt to a great elephant hunt, promising to beat up a white ele- 
phant for him and otherwise to arrange a splendid shooting pro- 
gramme. 

This news was brought into Berlin by Adolf Mayer, a kinsman of 
King Menelik of Abyssinia, who arrived there with a commission from 
the Abyssinian Government to purchase supplies. 

King Menelik sent an invitation to Mr. Eoosevelt at Washington to 
be his guest, but Mr. Eoosevelt declined, explaining that as he had 
refused the invitations of several European sovereigns, he could not 
make an exception of King Menelik, however much he might desire to 
do so. It was then arranged that the Crown Prince should invite Mr. 
Roosevelt unofficially. Before Mayer left Abyssinia a mission had been 
sent to hand this invitation to Mr. Eoosevelt wherever it could find him, 
and King Menelik was hopeful that the former President of the United 
States would accept the invitation in its present form. 



156 ROOSEVELT'S THRILLING EXPERIENCES. 

The envoys of the King were empowered to point out to Mr. Koose- 
velt, Mr. Mayer said, "that there is unrivalled elephant hunting in 
Abyssinia. The Crown Prince will send out 5,000 horsemen to encircle 
an immense range of prairie and drive in the elephants. Hundreds and 
possibly thousands of elephants could be thus assembled, and there 
would probably be one or two white ones among this number. These 
beasts are not really white, but merely animals of great vigor who 
have lived to be gray haired." 

When it was suggested that the Crown Prince of Abyssinia was 
only fourteen years old, Mr. Mayer replied that Abyssinians develop 
young. He declared that the Prince was an expert and adventurous 
huntsman ; that he spoke English, French and German, and that he was 
quite capable personally of showing Mr. Eoosevelt fine hunting. 

"Many stories have reached the court of King Menelik," Mr. Mayer 
said, in conclusion, "of Mr. Roosevelt's prowess as a horseman, a 
hunter, a soldier and an administrator. The King is most keen to greet 
him, and he probably would go to the borders of his country with a 
great following to receive Mr. Eoosevelt. ' ' 

Mr. Mayer is the son of a German engineer who married a sister 
of King Menelik. 

WHAT THE SMALLPOX SCARE KEVEALED. 

Just before the expedition was leaving for the Tana Eiver District 
it was reported that one of the native bearers had smallpox. This 
necessitated a close inspection of every one of the seventy-two bearers. 
They were all found to be free from any disease but Col. Roosevelt 
was indignant when he found that 32 out of the 72 bearers who had been 
carrying 60 pound boxes on their heads for hundreds of miles were 
women. 

Col. Roosevelt, on September 17th, found good shooting in the Mweru 
District and he was especially pleased with a large bull elephant which 
he shot, the tusks of which weighed nearly 200 pounds. In response 
to our correspondent's question about the hunting and the expedition 
Col. Eoosevelt said: "We are having capital fun and every member 
of the expedition is well." 



ROOSEVELT'S THRILLING EXPERIENCES. 157 

While Col. Roosevelt hunted in the Mweru District Kermit was in the 
Grwaso Nyiro and was extremely successful in bagging several lions and 
some buffalo, but he had poor luck with elephants and his father joined 
him to assist Kermit in an effort to get an elephant. Kermit had killed 
nearly as many varieties of wild animals as his father during the trip 
but the elephant had proved too elusive for him. His luck changed 
after his father joined him for he got an elephant and a rhino in one day. 

Shooting the African buffalo is one of the most hazardous tasks a 
hunter can undertake. They are not very plentiful nowdays and this 
coupled with the fact that they are a semi-water animal and live in 
marshes makes it hard to get at them. As a matter of fact a hunter 
has got to go after them in a swampy countiy where the advantage 
is all in the buffalo's favor. Col. Roosevelt had some thrilling ex- 
periences hunting this animal, which he says is incredibly strong and 
fast over the marshy ground. A wounded buffalo is the most to be 
feared of all African wild beasts and in one instance the whole Roose- 
velt party were in great danger but escaped unhurt. 

On October 15th, 1909, the expedition arrived from the North of 
Guaso Nyiro all well with the exception of a native porter who was 
tossed by a wounded rhinoceros. On this trip Col. Roosevelt shot three 
more elephants which completed the group for the Smithsonian In- 
stitute at Washington. He also killed a large bull elephant for the 
American Museum of Natural History at New York. Much other game 
was shot on this trip including a rhino with excellent horns, a buifalo, 
a giraffe, an eland, a zebra, ostrich and oryza. Kermit killed two 
elephants and an exceptionally large rhinoceros. 

TEIBAIi HTJNTEBS SPEAB LION FOE COL. ROOSEVELT. 

On December 11th, 1909, a long stream of porters could be seen wind- 
ing across the veldt toward the station at Nairobi, looking for all the 
world like a string of ants. The stars and stripes were held aloft by a 
giant native, and the sound of horns made strange discords with the 
chanting of the weird and elusive safari song. 

Shortly Col, Roosevelt arrived on the back of his favorite horse. 
Tranquillity. It was the end of Ms last trip in the British East African 
proteiJtorate. 



168 ROOSEVELT'S THRILLING EXPERIENCES. 

This safari trip, which was the fourth to be made out of Nairobi, 
gave Col. Roosevelt and his party an opportunity to witness an exciting 
hunt at A. E. Hoy's farm at Sirgoi, in the Guasu Nguisho country, the 
spearing of a lion by Nandi warriors. 

Seventy of these spearsmen had been asked to take part in the 
drive, and they assented readily, for when a warrior spears a lion he 
becomes a leader of the fighting section of the tribe and may wear a 
headdress formed of the lion's mane, and walk at the head of the file of 
the Nandi warriors when on the march. When in these hunts the tribes- 
men display extraordinary courage. 

SPEAEMEN CORNER ANGRY LION. 

The band of seventy almost naked men, with their long, sharp spears, 
attended by the chosen spectators, the latter being mounted, proceeded 
down a long valley, where the gi'ass was thick and thorn trees lined its 
edges. 

Soon a lion was observed, not more than 400 yards in front. Imme- 
diately the warriors gave chase, and in less than two miles they had 
rounded ujj the king of the wilderness. The horsemen then approached 
and it was seen that the lion at bay was a full grown, black maned one. 

The spearsmen began their task of surrounding the quarry. Every 
man went to his allotted position, and the circle slowly closed in on the 
snarling beast, which swished its tail and kept up a continual roaring. 

The warriors drew to within some twenty yards of the lion and the 
horsemen closed up to see the kill, yet remained at a sufficient distance 
so as not to interfere with the spearsmen 's movements. Three time? 
the lion made a savage charge at the now stationary warriors, but 
stopped short each time, with mane bristling,roaring in impotent rage 
at its tormentors. 

LION IN DEATH THROES MAIMS NATIVE. 

Again the attacking party advanced to within ten yards of their 
victim. One last desperate effort and the lion drove directly at 
the line, only to fall with ten spears quivering in its body. But in that 
brief moment it managed to drag down one of the natives, its claws 
sulking into the man's flesh. 



ROOSEVELT'S THRILLING EXPERIENCES. 159 

The death of the king of beasts seemed to awaken all the fire in the 
warriors' blood. They began a dance of triumph around the body, wav- 
ing their blood stained spears, some of which were bent by the force of 
the shock ; holding their shields above their heads, and shouting forth 
blood curdling yells in the excess of their savage joy over the victory. 

In the meantime the injured man was being given medical attention. 
He bore the pain of his wounds without a sign of concern. He who 
first had jabbed his spear through the lion joined in the dance at the 
start, but soon retired at a distance, where he seated himself, apparently 
indifferent to the antics of his fellows. He now was a leader of men, 
and must therefore not show sign that he had done anything out of the 
ordinary. 

KOOSEVELT DISOOVEKS A NEW ANIMAl,. 

A new animal was discovered in British East Africa by Col. Roose- 
v^elt. This new animal was first announced from the Smithsonian In- 
Btitute, January 3rd, 1910, as having been discovered by the distin- 
guished hunter and party, is a hitherto unknown species of Otocyon to 
which officials of the Scientific organization have given the specific name 
of "Vergatus." It is a small carnivorous animal closely resembling 
the fox. 

"Otocyon Eooseveltus" as a name for the new animal was suggested 
as being appropriate, and one which would have perpetuated the name 
of the former President as the discoverer of the new species, but Smith- 
sonian officials, fearing the discoverer would object decided to make 
the name which means ' ' striped. ' 

The otocyon vergatus is generally buff in color and has been found 
to differ slightly from otocyon megalotis which is found farther south 
in Africa, especially in color and in the characteristics of its teeth and 
skull. 

The otocyon is peculiar to Africa and is not represented in the 
United States but resembles in color the swifter kit fox of the western 
plains. The skull of this new form closely resembling that of the gray 
fox of our native fauna. 

This discovery is of special interest for the reason that compara- 
tively few new forms were expected from this region in Africa as that 



160 ROOSEVELT'S THRILLING EXPERIENCES. 

territory up to this time has been thoroughly examined by British 

Naturalists. 

KEEMIT HAS AMAZING LUCK. 

The luck of Kermit Eoosevelt has been amazing. While Col. Roose- 
velt was hunting with Lord Delamere, Kermit went off with R. B. Cole 
and his Wanderobo warriors. The Wanderobos are adepts at killing 
bongo, which are exceedingly rare and only to be found in the forests. 
In a short space of time the younger Eoosevelt had secured a large and 
fine specimen of the female bongo and one of the young beasts. This 
was a feat that any old hunter might justly have been proud of, for no 
white man ever before had stalked and shot at bongo. There are only 
two cases on record of a white man shooting bongo with the aid of 
the natives and their dogs. 

So pleased was one of the residents here with the success of the 
youtli that he presented Kermit with a fine specimen of the male bongo, 
and so the Smithsonian Institution will have a complete family group, 
the only one in the world. 

KERMIT IS BETTER SHOT THAN HIS FATHER. 

When Col. Roosevelt was at the McMillan ranch, near Nairobi, he 
admited that his son Kermit was a better shot than himself. He would 
not however tell this to Kermit as he was afraid it would make the 
young man think too much of himself. Kermit 's prowess proved a 
valuable aid to the party both in getting" animals for food and speci- 
mens for the Smithsonian Institute. 

COL, ROOSEVELT IS RIVAL OF BIBLICAL NIMROD. 

If you will open your Bible and turn to the tenth chapter of the book 
of Genesis, which gives a list of the descendants of Noah, you will find 
the name of Nimrod, who, it is said, ' ' began to be a mighty one in the 
earth. He was a mighty hunter before the Lord," wherefore it is said 
"even as Nimrod the mighty hunter before the Lord." 

Unfortunately there is no list of Nimrod 's exploits. There was no 
national museum in the neighborhood of Mount Ararat. The Smith- 
sonian Instituion did not exist in those days. Therefore we have no 
means of comparison, but it is perfectly safe to assert that, Theodore 




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From Stereograph Copyright ]909, bv Underwood & Underwood, N. Y. 

CURING ANTELOPE FOE USE ON LONG FORCED MARCHES. 
Contrary to popular ideas there are large sections of African Jungle and plain where 
Col. Roosevelt hunted, where food material of everj' sort is scarce and must be planned for 
beforehand. The native porters are here seen after the hunt curing strips of Antelope 
meat with which they sustain life while crossing the dreary wastes. 



ROOSEVELT'S THRILLING EXPERIENCES. 361 

Roosevelt, like Nimrod, the son of Cush, "began to be a mighty one 
in the earth" long before he went to Africa, and since he started in 
pursuit of lions, hippopotami, giraffe and other beasts of the field and 
the jungle, he has shown himself to be a mighty hunter before the Lord 
and has sent home more than 600 casks and bales of trophies and a 
menagerie of living things to prove it. 

The serious work of preparing the Eoosevelt trophies for exhibition 
began the first week in January, 1910. Scientific tanners of great skill 
and long experience are in Washington, and the atmosphere around the 
basement of the Smithsonian Institution was redolent of pungent odors, 
such as arise from the contact of acids and other chemical agencies that 
are employed to arrest the forces of nature. It will be more than a year 
before anything will be ready for exhibition. The Eoosevelt trophies 
will be set up in the new museum building which is nearly comi^leted 
and will doubtless be open to the public in the fall of 1910, But it 
will take at least a year to tan and stuff the hides and mount and install 
the other trophies which have been received from Africa. And it will 
•^e several years before the work is entirely completed because of the 
enormous extent and extraordinary value of the collections. 

Up to January 1st, 1910, Mr. Eoosevelt had already sent to the 
Smithsonian more than 6,000 objects of interest, including the skins and 
hides of the animals he has killed, hundreds of rare birds, reptiles, fishes, 
botanical specimens, native implements, utensils and other ethnological 
material of great scientific value and intense human interest. No ex- 
pedition, either private or public, that was sent out for exploration 
ever produced such results. No expedition of the kind was ever con- 
ducted on such a large scale or enjoyed the extraordinary advantages 
whidi Colonel Eoosevelt commanded. The officials of the British, 
Dutch and Portuguese governments, the local authorities and foreign 
population of Central Africa ; the native chiefs and tribesmen, the mis- 
sionaries and everybody who was capable of rendering any service 
lo the modern Nimrod did their best to contribute to its success 
and never before have the jungles and wilderness of Africa been 
beaten so thoroughly for game or searched for all forms of animate 
and inanimate objects of interest. 



162 ROOSEVELT'S THRILLING EXPERIENCES. 

The expedition is almost over and the trophies that have been re- 
ceived thus far included whatever was collected up to January 1st, 1910. 
Since that day the party has been busily engaged adding to the number 
and undoubtedly the shipments that are already on the way and those 
which may be expected in the future will more than double in number 
and in value those which have already been received. 

The skins and hides were packed and shipped in casks of brine which 
will not be opened until the tanners are ready to work on them. The 
skeleton of every beast has been sent along in another package, and 
already a carload of bones have been boiled and scraped and put in order 
for articulation by the taxidermists. They will be exhibited separately. 
The skins and hides will be stuffed and mounted on manikins in lifelike 
attitudes. 

The invoices already received show thirteen lions and lionesses shot 
by the ex-President himself, four giraffes of different species, two black 
rhinoceri, which are very rare, and a dozen others of more common 
varieties; several hippopotami and several elephants, seven zebras, and 
hyenas, leopards, cheetahs, hartebeestes, waterbucks, gazelles, impallas, 
wart-hogs, dik-diks, and other wild beasts, some of which were never 
before brought into this country; and all these are to be mounted for 
permanent exhibition in the new museum. There are also numerous 
cases of birds, including several varieties hitherto unknown, and several 
hundred small animals, such as rats, rabbits, moles, and mice, numerous 
snakes, lizard^ and other examples of crawling and creeping things 
which are not attractive to look at but have great scientific value. 

It is interesting to conjecture how these examples of the animal 
kingdom, which are being rapidly exterminated, will look to future 
generations who will visit the national museum that is now approach- 
ing completion. Hundreds of thousands of people go to see the walking 
stick, the account books and the shoe buckles of George Washington. 
The field glasses and the sword of General Grant are of intense in- 
terest to everybody, while a rail that was split by Abraham Lincoln 
attracts as much attention as the capitol of the United States. Then 
what will future generations say when they stand in the presence of 
the hippopotami, the elephants, lions and other wild beasts that were 
shot and sent as trophies by another ex-President? 



ROOSEVELT'S THRILLING EXPERIENCES. 1G3 

It is not the intention of the Smithsonian Institution to selfishly 
retain all of the trophies of the Eoosevelt expedition. Dr. Waleott, the 
secretary, says that the duplicates will be used, according to the custom 
of the institution, for exchanges with other museums and for presenta- 
tions to universities, colleges and museums of natural history through- 
out the country. Hence it is probable that every museum of importance 
may have one or more zoological specimens from the "bag" of our 
modern Nimrod. 

MAKEUP OF THE EXPEDITION. 

The expedition consists of six principals, besides several hundred 
assistant hunters, beaters-in, field taxidermists, porters and other 
servants and camp followers of various sorts. The chief men are Theo- 
dore Eoosevelt, Kermit Roosevelt, Lieutenant Colonel Edgar A. Mearns 
of the medical corps of the United States army, Edmund Heller, natur- 
alist ; J. Loring Alden, naturalist, and E. J. Cunninghame, professional 
hunter and explorer, who is the executive oflScer and general manager. 
He had charge of the organization of the expedition and the purchase 
of the equipment and supplies and is the business man of the outfit. 

Mr. Cunninghame is an Englishman, a famous rifle shot, and has 
probably more trophies to his credit than any otter big game hunter 
in the Av'orld. He has spent almost his entire time in Africa for twenty 
years or more. He has made it his business to furnieh outfits and guides 
for the nobility and millionaries of England, France, Germany and 
other countries who have gone out there to hunt big game. He has or- 
ganized and conducted several expeditions for the British Museum and 
has had a larger experience in the mountains and jungles of Africa 
than anj^ other man. 

Lieutenant Colonel Mearns, who is on the retired list of the army, 
has been an agent of the Smithsonian Institution for many years in 
making collections of natural history specimens in different parts of 
the world, but this is his first experience in Africa. He has also done 
a good deal of work for the Museum of Natural History in New York, 
and is generally recognized as one of the most successful and competent 
collectors in the country.- His epecialty is birds, ,he.is a botanist of note 



164 ROOSEVELT'S THRILLING EXPERIENCES. 

and is a member of all the great scientific societies in this and other 
countries. On this expedition he is the disbursing officer, the medical 
authority and the business representative of the Smithsonian In- 
stitution. 

Edmund Heller is a young Californian, a graduate of Stanford 
University, 36 years old. At the time of his appointment he was assis- 
tant curator of zoology in the University of California. He was a 
member of the expedition sent to Africa by the Field Museum of 
Chicago in 1900 under Professor Carl E. Akeley and traversed a large 
part of the same section through which the Roosevelt party has been 
working. Mr. Heller, like Mr. Cunninghame, is, therefore, familiar 
with the topography as well as the work. He has also had considerable 
experience as a collector of mammals, birds, fishes and other objects of 
natural history in British Columbia, Mexico, Alaska and Central 
America. 

J. Loring Alden of Owego, N. Y., is 38 years old, and for several 
years has been connected with the biological bureau of the Department 
of Agriculture at Washington. Formerly he was attached to the zoo- 
logical gardens of Central Park, New York, and he has participated in 
several explorations in various parts of America as a collector and 
naturalist. He has a great reputation as a field naturalist and for his 
genius in catching animals and birds alive. This is his special work 
in connection with the Roosevelt expedition, and he has already demon- 
strated the wisdom of his choice. Col. Roosevelt says that he does not 
believe that three better men could be found for their special work than 
Alden, Heller and Mearns. 

In addition to the 6,000 inanimate objects that have been sent home, 
a collection of several wild beasts have arrived safely at the zoological 
park in "Washington, where they are now happy and contented. These 
include a male and a female lion, each about 2 years old, a male and 
two female lions, each about 18 months old, which Dr. Baker says are 
as fine specimens of the king of beasts as were ever brought to this 
country. There are also leopards, cheetahs, warthogs, gazelles, a large 
ea^e of unusual specsies, a small vulture and a huge buteo. 



ROOSEVELT'S THRILLING EXPERIENCES. 165 

THE LAST STAGE OF THE HUNT. 

In January 1910 the "Smithsonian African Scientific Expedition" 
started for Wadelai in Belgian Kongo. C^^ ■vas pitched and named 
"Rhino Camp" as it was for the purpose of getting good specimens 
of the white rhinoceros that they selected this place. A few days after 
their arrival Col. Eoosevelt succeeded in getting three good bulls and 
two cows of the white rhinoceros family as well as considerable lesser 
game. The naturalists collected many species of birds and mammals, 
insects as well as plants, flowers, etc. 

CAMP RHINO HAS NARROW ESCAPE. 

The second day at Camp Rhino furnished the party with an in- 
teresting experience which came nearly proving very disastrous. The 
camp on account of the number requires considerable space, and near 
the cooking tent a grass fire was accidently started. It burned with 
amazing rapidity and soon threatened the entire camp and its outfit. 
Col. Roosevelt's experience on the western plains of America stood 
him in good stead and he quickly had all hands working at beating 
and backfiring and clearing the grass immediately surrounding the 
camp, and by energetic work the camp was saved. 

On February 2nd, 1910, a collection of moths that live on antelope 
horns was received at the Smithsonian Institution from the Former 
President Eoosevelt. The donation came in the form of a pair of 
horns on which the larvae were snugly imbedded. The authorities are 
taking good care of the horns, so that the larvae may hatch. 

Up to February 4th, 1910, Col. Eoosevelt had the following trophies 
to his credit: 

Lions 7 Leopard 1 

Rhinoceroses . ., .16 Hartebeest 1 

Giraffes , , 10 Bohor 1 

Wildebeests 8 Impalla 1 

Thompson's gazelle 1 Waterbuck 1 

Hippopotami ,. . . . 4 Buffaloes 7 

Python 1 Elands 2 

Ostrich 1 Topi 4 



106 ROOSEVELT'S THRILLING EXPERIENCES. 

Elephants 9 Bushbuck 1 

Zebra 1 Oribi 1 

Oryx 1 Kob 1 

Besides his li&t of Big Game Mr. Roosevelt has shot hundreds of 
smaller denizens of the jungle, beasts, birds and reptiles, as well as 
antelope, hartebeest, etc., for food for his own party and sefari. 

Kermit Roosevelt has established his prowess as a nimrod up to 
the same date by shooting the following: 

Lions 10 Buffaloes 4 

Cheeta 3 Monkeys 2 

Giraffes 2 Eland 1 

Wildebeest 1 Topi 3 

Leopard 1 Rhinoceroses 3 

Hippopotamus 1 Elephants 2 

On February 4, 1910, the Roosevelt expedition arrived at Nimule, 
Uganda Protectorate according to schedule. All the members were in 
excellent health and were delighted with the Congo district where they 
had good sport and secured splendid specimens of the white rhinoceros 
family complete. On February 5, 1910, the expedition left for Gon- 
dokoro which took them through the most trying part of their journey. 
Indeed for ten days they were isolated in a most dangerous wilderness 
hitherto so forbidding to the white man that it had not even been in- 
vaded by the telegraph companies. 

On February 17, 1910, Col. Roosevelt and party were met sixteen 
miles from Gondokoro, Sudan, on the Upper Nile, by Chief Keriba and 
his native band of musicians and an immense number of natives. The 
parade to Gondokoro was amid a continuous clamor of native tom-toms, 
drums and bugles. The entrance into the village was rudely picturesque 
for nothing that British and native hospitalitj^ could suggest was lack- 
ing in the welcome. Reaching the town the band struck up the air 
"America" and following the musicians a native porter carried a large 
American flag. Then came the caravan jDroper, Col. Roosevelt, Kermit 
and the other American hunters and the large body of native porters 
who had an important if humble share in the work of the expedition. 

Waiting on the Bar-el-Jabel river, the most southerly tributary of 



ROOSEVELT'S THRILLING EXPERIENCES. 167 

the Nile, was the launch of General Sir Reginald Wingate, Sirdar of 
the Egyptian army and from its masthead floated the Stars and 
Stripes. Col. Eoosevelt hoarded the launch at once and was taken to a 
brick house which had been placed at his disposal. 

KERMIT ROOSEVELT (bWANAMTOTO) A HERO. 

Soon after the expedition arrived at Gondokoro one of the native 
porters accidentally fell into the river. His fellow porters tried to res- 
cue him but without success as they were afraid of the crocodiles which 
infest the stream. Kermit Roosevelt and Mr. Loring hearing of the 
accident hastened to the spot and heedless of the dangers from croco- 
dile and reptiles in the swift current, braved death by diving into the 
water in an effort to save porter. Kermit dived several times but failed 
to rescue the man but succeeded in bringing the body to shore although 
a crocodile came near him and nearly caught him. Scores of natives on 
the bank cheered Kermit as they watched his efforts which were com- 
mended by his father and the other members of the party. Kermit 's 
efforts so exhausted him that he was given medical aid but soon re- 
covered. 

The final week of hunting was at this place. The party hunting 
along the banks of the river where they were successful in getting 
some excellent specimens of elephants, lions, etc. 

On February 26, 1910, the party embarked on the Sirdar's launch 
for Khartoum. Several enterprising American newspapers had sent 
over sjoecial correspondents to greet Col. Roosevelt as he emerged from 
the jungle and they had an exciting race up the Nile for that purpose. 
The race proved to be a dead heat all of them arriving at the same 
time, March 11th. After a hearty greeting to the newspaper men the 
Colonel said he had nothing to say on American political questions and 
would have nothing to say during his entire European trip. The 
Colonel appeared hard and strong and Kermit was also in good health. 

The party embarked the following day for Khartoum where they 
arrived March 14th. The Colonel was given a splendid reception. 
Just outside the city he was met by the Staff of the Sirdar of Egypt 
who extended the first formal greetings to the renowned hunter. The 



f) 



168 ROOSEVELT'S THRILLING EXPERIENCES. 

city was gayly decorated with American, Egyptian and British flags and 
many thousands of people lined the shores to catch a glimpse of the ex- 
President. Col. Eoosevelt was dressed in a khaki hunting suit with 
white helmet. As the boat came into the pier the crowd burst into 
cheering which the Colonel acknowledged by raising his hat. He was 
taken direct to the Sirdar's palace, but left in a few minutes with Ker- 
mit to meet Mrs. Eoosevelt and Miss Ethel who were to arrive by train. 

COLONEL EOOSEVELT BEUNITED WITH HIS FAMILY. 

After a year's separation Col. Roosevelt and his family were re- 
united in Khartoum in the Southern part of Egypt. The officials of the 
city had so arranged affairs that this family reunion was in strict pri- 
vacy. No one was allowed in the station but the Colonel and his son 
Kennit. After a few minutes seclusion a happy family emerged and 
proceeded at once to the palace where no one was allowed to disturb 
them until the following day. 

On March 16th, the party visited Ondunnan and rode on the famous 
battlefield whereon the Khalifa power was broken and Egypt became 
one of the civilized nations. At a banquet in the evening. Col. Eoose- 
velt was the guest of honor and captivated those present with a stirring 
speech. 

The following days were spent in sight seeing in this land of many 
wonders. Col. Eoosevelt was particularly interested in the Assuan 
Dam on the Nile which he said was the greatest engineering feat in the 
world, but when the Panama Canal was finished it would eclipse it. He 
went about the country riding Camels, spirited Arabian horses and 
donkeys, visiting tombs of Kings 3000 years old, mummy shaped cof- 
fins found in caverns in Eocky hills, ruins of cities thousands of years 
old and which for over a thousand years covered by the desert sands. 



CHAPTER XIII. 
ROOSEVELT VISITS CHRISTIAN MISSIONS IN AFRICA. 

Religions of Africa — Fetichism — Devil Worship — Portuguese and Protestant Missions — London 
Missionary Society — Livingstone — Dutch Reformed Church— American Missions — Catholic 
Missions in Northern Africa — Persecutions — Martyrdoms — A Christian Ruler. 

ROOSEVELT has always taken a deeiD interest in tlie efforts made 
by the missionaries to Christianize and civilize barbarian coun- 
tries and during his stay in Africa had an excellent opportunity 
to study this work at close range. 

• The forms of religious beliefs professed by the inhabitants of Africa 
may be classed under three heads— Christian, Mohammedan, and pagan. 
The second form of faith was propagated in this continent at a very 
early jjeriod of Mohammedan history ; and we tind professors of it among 
many tribes which are not far removed from a state of savagery. 
These, however, are only nominally Mohammedans; in their gross super- 
stitions, their ignorance, and their revolting practices, they are really 
pagans; and their profession of belief in the Prophet of Islam only 
serves to bring contempt upon his teachings, as too many who call 
themselves by a holier name bring contempt, by the manner of their lives, 
upon the religion which they profess. 

It is difficult to speak in general terms of the faiths which are classed 
under the head of pagan. Some tribes appear to have a confused and 
gross belief in a future life; others declare that death ends all. Others 
again, believe in the transmigration of souls, and hold certain animals 
in reverence, as inhabited by the souls of dead friends. The negroes on 
the equatorial western coast of Africa believe that the souls of men fre- 
quently pass into gorillas, and that such animals are too cunning for 
the hunter. Some people have a well defined belief in a superior Being, 
who is good and beneficent ; others, again, while they believe in spirits, 
cannot imagine one that is not malevolent; and are perpetually in 

169 



170 



ROOSEVELT VISITS CHRISTIAN MISSIONS. 



terror of all supernatural agencies. But whatever rank these various 
religions may hold in point of purity or approach to reason, there is 
one thing in which they all agree : all teach a belief in magic, by whatever 
name it may be called; and the sorcerer is a person to be feared, the 
diviner to be honored. 




ATBICAN SUPERSTITION — UNFAVOKABLE PKOPUECT. 

One particular form of this belief in magic is Fetichism, or the belief 
in charms. A European explorer of recent years relates that on one 
occasion, when he had become unconscious from the effects of fever, 
he found, upon recovering his senses, that he was almost literally 
covered with charms which his faithful servitors had believed would 
restore him to health. But it was not even an opportunity for a faith 
cure; for he cast aside the antelope's horns, elephant's teeth and similar 
articles, and took a dose of quinine. The present writer is not prepared 
to say what are the peculiar virtues of the various fetiches, or whether 
the Africans are so ridiculous as to hang a horse-shoe over the stable- 



ROOSEVELT VISITS CHRISTIAN MISSIONS. 171 

door for luck, or carry a horse-chestnut in the pocket (those of them who 
wear clothes) to ward off rheumatism. 

From their universal belief in spirits, and that prevailing impres- 
sion that spirits cannot be beneficent, arises what has been styled devil- 
worship. Much of that to which this name is applied is properly so 
called, since it is an effort to propitiate bad spirits ; it may be that ig- 
norance of their language and customs has caused some genuine wor- 
ship of a Good Being to be so designated; since the stranger would sup- 
pose the god so worshipped to be, necessarily, a false one. 

In 1481, the king of Portugal sent ten ships with five hundred soldiers 
and one hundred laborers, together with "a proper complement of 
priests," to Elmina. The mission thus founded lingered on for a 
period of 241 years, but does not seem to have made any impression 
upon the natives, except those who were immediately dependent upon the 
whites at the station. Finally, in 1723, the mission of the Capuchins at 
Sierra Leone was given up, and they disappeared altogether from West 
Africa. Whatever influence they may have had at the time has left 
no permanent traces. 

An effort was made by the same authority to establish a mission 
station at the mouth of the Congo ; but the natives proved too thoroughly 
wedded to their immoral practices to be really desirous of a purer mode 
of life. Somewhat of the story might be told, did orr space admit ; but 
the end is wrapped in darkness ; vessels came from Portugal, and found 
that the missionaries had disappeared, and no one could or would tell 
them how. 

The earliest Protestant efforts for the evangelization of Africa were 
made in 1736. In that year the Moravians determined to send out a mis- 
sionary to the southern part of this great continent. The next year, 
George Schmidt arrived at the mouth of Sergeant's River. Though op- 
posed and persecuted both by the government of the colony and by 
the native chiefs, he persevered, and at last succeeded in establishing a 
mission at Genadenthal, one hundred and twenty miles north of the 
Cape. The results of nine years' labor showed that forty-seven families 
had professed Christianity, and received baptism. He then returned to 
his native Holland, to seek for assistance ; but not only did he find no 



172 ROOSEVELT VISITS CHRISTIAN MISSIONS. 

others who would join him, but for some unexplained reason, he was 
not allowed to return. He passed the remainder of his days as a poor 
day-laborer in Germany, "with his heart in that southern land which he 
was never to see again." 

On the west coast, the efforts of the Moravians were less successful. 
Beginning there at the same time that Schmidt went to South Africa, five 
diiTerent attempts were made to establish missionary stations ; but they 
were made at the cost of eleven lives. Finally, in 1770, the effort was 
given up. 

The Methodists were the next to seek to occupy the field. In the 
Minutes of the Conference for 1792, we find Africa, for the first time, 
set down as one of the missionary stations, Sierra Leone being the point 
selected. Four years later, the names of A. Murdoch and W. Patten are 
set down as missionaries to the Foulab country. 

In 1798, the London Missionary Society sent out four missionaries, 
who arrived at the Cape the next year. Of these the most remarkable 
was Dr. Vanderkemp, who for years endured great hardships in his work 
of preaching the gospel to "his beloved Hottentots." But the most not- 
able (with one great exception) of the missionaries sent out by this so- 
ciety was Robert Moffat. 

He was a young man of but twenty-two when he offered himself 
for the work. Of his early training we have not space to say much; 
but volumes are told of the influences which had surrounded him at home, 
in the answer of his parents when he asked their consent to engage in 
this work: "We have thought of your proposal to become a mission- 
ary; we have prayed over it; and we cannot withhold you from so 
good a work." He never had any formal theological training; and 
seems, indeed, to have had but slight acquaintance with schools gen- 
erally. 

Great Namaqua-land was to be the scene of his earliest labors; a 
region where there had already been some effort at evangelization, so 
that the chief Africaner was thought to give evidence that would war- 
rant a hope of his conversion. The missionarj% of course, had landed at 
Cape Town; and the journey across Cape Colony was both toilsome and 
adventurous. It was late in January, 1818, when he arrived at Afri- 
caner's kraal, on the banks of the Orange River. 



ROOSEVELT VISITS CHRISTIAN MISSIONS. 173 

No sooner was he told that a white man had come, than Africaner 
appeared and demanded if Moffat were the missionai'y who had been 
promised. Eeceiving an answer in the affirmative, he turned to two 
women standing by, and commanded them to build a house for the mis- 
sionary at once. They went to work with an alacrity that showed how 
pleasing the task was; and in an hour's time the "house" was finished. 
It is true that it was not a very substantial edifice ; composed of native 
mats hung on poles, it was a shelter from neither rain nor sun, and fre- 
quently required extensive repairs after a storm. A dog could push 
aside the mats and enter at will ; sometimes such an uninvited visitor 
would help himself to the missionary's stock of provisions for the next 
day. "Nor were these all the contingencies of such a dwelling; for as 
the cattle belonging to the village had no fold, I had been compelled to 
start up from a sound sleep, and try to defend myself and my dwelling 
from being crushed to pieces by the rage of two bulls which had met to 
fight a nocturnal duel." 

But the hut, rude and unsubstantial as it was, was the best that they 
knew how to build; and Moffat felt himself more than repaid for such 
slight evils as bodily discomfort when the chief Africaner became an 
earnest Christian, and zealously seconded the efforts of the young mis- 
sionary to teach his people not only the Gospel, but those lessons of 
Industry and cleanliness which so powerfully assist the missionary in all 
countries to emphasize the blessings which his religion would teach the 
world. 

Several efforts were made to find a place which would be more suit- 
able for a missionary station than Africaner's kraal; it was desired to 
reach other peoples more directly ; but these efforts were not successful. 
Finally, it was decided that Africaner's two brothers, who proved to be 
able and willing assistants, should conduct the services at the kraal when 
Moffat foimd it necessary to absent himself on missionary tours. These 
he made frequently. This missionary rode a borrowed horse, to the 
back of the saddle of which was tied a blanket, in which was wrapped 
his Bible and hymnbook. His guide rode an ox. They were not en- 
cxunbered with useless baggage ; they carried only a pipe, some tobacco, 
and a tinder-box— for it was before tbe days of iQatohes. Thoir living 



174 



ROOSEVELT VISITS CHSISTIAN MISSIONS. 



they managed to get wherever they might be. After a day's ride through 
the hot sun, they would ask a drink of milk at the village to which they 
came ; and then, assembling the people in a corner of the cattle-fold, the 
missionary would tell the glad tidings he had come so far to bring. 
His sermon done, and some talk held with the people individually, the 




.THE PROPHETESS AT WOBK. 



preacher would lie down on a mat in the corner of a hut for the night. 
After another address in the morning, the preacher and his companion 
would ride on toward another village, where the same thing would be 
repeated. Often their only breakfast was a drink of milk and some- 
times, on arriving in the evening at a point where they had expected 
to find a village, they would discover that lack of grass and water had 
compelled the inhabitants to drive their flocks and herds, and remove 
their rude huts and few belongings to some other point. 



ROOSEVELT VISITS CHRISTIAN MISSIONS. 175 

Moffat spent forty years in this work ; and lived to see the mission- 
ary stations pushed as far as the head-waters of the Limpopo, in 
twenty-four degrees south latitude; Kolobeng being then the farthest 
station in the interior. His daughter became the wife of the most 
famous African missionary— David Livingstone. It is useless here to 
follow his work in detail, since the country which he traversed has 
been explored by travelers who have noted more closely than he the 
characteristics of the country, because they were less concerned with 
the welfare of the people. Moffat was, above all else, a missionary; 
that work, in his eyes, far transcended anything else in importance; 
hence there is but little space for him in a volume on the history of 
African exploration. 

In regard to the missionary labors of Livingstone, we shall here say 
nothing; but when he returned to England after his first great journey 
and long residence in Africa, his account of his experiences gave a 
greater impulse to the missionary effort for this part of the world than 
anything else had ever done. It is in place to sum up the results of 
ninety years' labor by the emissaries of the London Missionary Society 
in Africa. There are about twenty principal stations, with fifty-two 
branches, including the Tanganyika mission in Central Afi'ica. One of 
the chief stations, Kuruman, seven hundred and fifty miles due north 
from the Cape, was founded by Moffat and Hamilton in 1817 ; it was here 
that Livingstone found a church-house, a well-stocked garden, and a 
printing-press— evidences of civilization that surprised the newly ar- 
rived missionary not a little. It was here, too, that he found Mary 
Moffat, who had not then (1840) dreamed that she would one day be- 
come Mary Livingstone. 

Twenty-five English missionaries and something more than a hun- 
dred native preachers carry on the work so nobly' begun, and the sta- 
tions of the society now have forty-two schools, with more than two 
thousand pupils. The communicants number nearly twenty-five thou- 
sand. 

The Dutch Reformed Church is naturally, from the number of B^rs 
there resident, a strong one in South Africa; and from the settle- 
ments as a basis, missionaries have gone out among the surrounding 



176 



ROOSEVELT yiSITS CHRISTIAN MISSIONS. 



tribes, until between four and five thousand of the aborigines have been 
brought into the church, while moie than twenty thousand others are 
under instruction. 

"When Livingstone had aroused enthusiasm in England in regard to 
African mission work, the two great universities, Oxford and Cam- 
bridge, resolved to institute a mission at the mouth of the Zambesi. 
Bishop Mackenzie was selected to take charge of it; and accompanied 







ilil n 



A SLATE MABKET. 



by six Englishmen, and five colored men from the Cape, he arrived 
at the scene of his intended labors iu 1S61. But he was not long to work 
here. He became entangled in the terrible slavery broils, and made fre- 
quent trips to a country far from healthful ; he contracted a fever through 
these journeys, which was neglected because the press of his duties was so 



ROOSEVELT VISITS CHRISTIAN MISSIONS. 177 

great. He sank rapidly, and died in the hut of a native, situated on the 
edge of a dark forest. His companion read the burial service over his 
body ; but in a few days more, he too was cut down by the terrible fever, 
and was buried in that strange land. Another and another fell vic- 
tims to the climate, and in 1862 the attempt was, for the time, given up. 
It has since been revived, however, and a mission instituted, with head- 
quarters at Zanzibar, and twelve laborers in the tield, with as many 
assistants. 

Shortly after the death of Livingstone, the Free Church of Scotland 
resolved to establish a memorial mission. Livingstonia was adopted 
as the name, and the southern end of Lake Nyassa as the site. Ten thou- 
sand pounds was the sum subscribed, and the Free Church of Scotland, 
the Established Church of Scotland and the United Presbyterian Church 
united in the enterprise. The work received a severe blow when Dr. 
Black, a young man of great promise, died; his last words were: 
"Africa must not be given up, though it should cost thousands of 
liA^es." True to this watchword, the work in this section has been 
carried on with unextinguishable zeal; and a companion mission sta- 
tion called Blantyre established some two hundred miles from Livings- 
tonia. 

The American Board for Foreign Missions began its work on the 
west coast of Africa in 1834. by establishing a station at Cape Palmas. 

The same point has been chosen as a station by the American 
Episcopalians, who have also stations at other places not far distant. 

The efforts of the Baptists of this country havf; been most vigorous 
in Liberia and the Yarriba country, where churches and schools have 
been established, and much good has been accomplished among the 
natives of the vicinity. 

Most of the American missions are on the west coast of Africa. 
The first established was that of the American Baptist Missionary Union, 
in Liberia, in 1821. After eleven years, this was followed by the estab- 
lishment of another station in the same locality by the American Pres- 
byterian Board of Missions. The same year (1832) the Methodist Epis- 
copal Missionary Society sent a missionary to Liberia, who died shortly 
after reaching that country. The good work was carried on, however, 

12 



178 ROOSEVELT VISITS CHRISTIAN MISSIONS. 

and others followed him to the dangerous charge, but without suffer- 
ing the same fatal results from the climate. The work is now carried 
on chiefly by native workers, who are less liable to the dreaded African 
Fever than strangers; and the work is under the charge of a colored 
bishop (Taylor). 

The "American Board" of Missions began its African work in 1834 
at Cape Palmas; and two years afterward, the Protestant Episcopal 
Church of the United States established a station at the same point. 
This church sent out three missionaries, who worked faithfully among 
the dense population of the surrounding country. Not a little of their 
success was due, speaking from a purely secular point of view, to the 
fact that one of these missionaries was a physician, and was enabled 
to win the confidence of the natives by attending to their physical ills. 
Native helpers have been trained, schoo'.s have been established and a 
newspaper is published in the interests of the mission. 

In South Africa the Boers or descendants of Dutch colonists and 
French Huguenots have done much for the Christianizing of the in- 
habitants. Wherever the African farmer went he carried his old 
Dutch Bible with him and with it went the spirit of prayer and devotion 
which always has characterized the Dutch nationality. The Boers es- 
tablished municipal government and built churches and schoolhouses 
and while they originally were nothing but hunters and tradesmen, still 
they carried with them a spirit of thrift and piety, which has had a 
very wholesome effect on the native population. After long struggles 
with the savages and a wild nature, the Boers established two inde- 
pendent republics, which existed until the recent war with England, 
which resulted in their overthrow. They are now organized into a Brit- 
ish Colony with their own parliament and colonial government. Chris- 
tianity is gradually gaining in Africa and the time is not very far dis- 
tant when the Dark Continent will have surrendered to Christ. In fact, 
our religion is making more rapid progress among the child-like, un- 
sophisticated natives there than in Asia, where an old civilization and 
philosophical speculation of a mostly assertive nature has rather pre- 
disposed the inhabitants for a pantheistic view than for the stern mono- 
theism of the Christian religion. 



CHAPTER XIV. 
THE AFRO-AMERICAN NEGRO AND THE SLAVE TRADE. 

How the Slave Trade Originated— Cruelty of the Slave Traders — Efforts to Suppress It — 
Liberia, the Afro-American Republic — Its People and Governme:it — Sacrificing a Child — 
Roasting People Alive — Breaking the Bones of Victims — Adveninres of the Cannibals — 
The Value of Female Slaves. 

WHEN Roosevelt landed in Africa the iniquitous sla\e trade, 
which had flourished for centuries, had long ago been sup- 
pressed, and only a faint shado-^ of its horrors was still hover- 
ing over the eastern territories of the continent. The tirst traces of this 
nefarious trade can be noted as far back as 1619, when slaves were 
brought from the western coast of Africa to Virginia. It is said that the 
first load consisted to 14 blacks. The trade proved profitable and in- 
creased from year to year and at present the descendants of these Afri- 
can negroes amount to an eighth of our population. 

This trafific was carried on to such an extent that during the eighteenth 
century more than two million slaves were imported into the Eng- 
lish colonies and sold there. In one single year 192 slave-ships carried 
47,140 slaves. This, however, excited a great agitation, and the follow- 
ing year, 1772, all slaves in the British dominions were set free. 

The cruelties that characterized the slave-trade are too nerve-racking 
to be told. The following incident told by the famous African explorer, 
Captain Baker and relating to his visit to Fatino, once the headquarters 
of the Central African slave-trade, is quite interesting. 

Baker reached this place before any knowledge of his coming had 
been received by the old slaver, who, therefore, was wholly unprepared 
for his visitor. Baker saw active preparations going on for secreting the 
slaves, but it was too late. The slaver, Abou Laood, greeted him in the 
most cordial manner professing great delight at his visit. Knowing 
what this hypocrisy meant Baker received the address with a similar 
manifestation of friendship. At the same time, however, he desired to 

17a 



180 



AFRO-AMERICAN NEGRO AND SLAVE TRADE. 



show the slave hunter that he was at the head of a force sufficient to 
put a stop to the nefarious trade. Accordingly he let his regulars en- 
gage into a sham battle, and to heighten the effect the band played 
several military airs, which brought thousands of natives to the scene. 
The buglers, cymbals and bass-drums proved irresistable to the Afri- 
cans, who are passionately fond of miusic ; and the safest way to travel 
in those wild countries is to play the cornet, if possible without ceasing, 
which would secure a safe passage. An Italian organ grinder would 




CAPT.UN SAilLEL BAJCEB. 



march through Central Africa, followed by an admiring and enthusiastic 
crowd, who, if his tunes were lively, would form a dancing escort of 
most untiring material. 



DANCING VENUSES. 



As the troops returned to their quarters, with the band playing rather 
lively airs, women were observed running down from their villages, 
and gathering from all directions toward the common center. As they 



AFRO-AMERICAN NEGRO AND SLAVE TRADE. 181 

approached nearer, the charms of music were overpowering, and, halt- 
ing for an instant, they assumed the most graceful attitudes, and then 
danced up to the band. In a short time the buglers could hardly blow 
their instruments for laughing at the extraordinary effects of the female 
dancers. A fantastic crowd surrounded them, and every minute added 
to their number. Even the babies were brought out to dance ; and these 
infants strapped to their mothers' backs, and covered with jDumpkin 
shells, like young tortoises, were jolted about by their infatuated mothers 
without the slightest considei'ation for the weakness of their necks. As 
usual among all tribes in Central Africa, the old wom;en were even more 
determined dancers than the young girls. Several old Venuses made 
themselves extremely ridiculous, as they sometimes do in civilized coun- 
tries when attempting the allurements of younger days. 

When their king dies his body is slowly roasted on a gigantic gridiron, 
over a fire until it resembles an overdone jack-rabbit. It is then wrapped 
in bark-cloths and lies in state until his successor is elected and ascends 
the throne after bloody fights with other pretenders that might last for 
years. An immense pit or trench is now dug, capable of containing sev- 
eral hundred people. This den is lined with bark-cloths. The late king's 
wives are seated at the bottom to receive upon their trembling knees the 
carcass of their departed lord. The previous night the king's body- 
guard surround the dwellings and seize the people indiscriminately as 
they issue from their doors and bring them to the pit's mouth. Their 
legs and arms are broken with warclubs, and they are pushed into the 
pit on the top of the king's body and his unfortunate wives. An im- 
mense din of drums, horns, flageolets and whistles, mingled with the 
yells of a frantic crowd, drown the shrieks of the sufferers, u^oon whom 
the earth is shoveled and stamped down by thousands of cruel fanatics, 
who dance and jump upon the loose mould so as to force it into a comjaact 
mass, through which the victims of their horrid sacrifice cannot grope 
their way. At length the mangled mass is buried and trodden down 
beneath a hummock of earth, and all is still. 

A regular traffic was maintained between the traders of Uganda, 
in which young girls were made the object of barter. A plump, young 
girl was usually sold for a first-class elephant tusk or in some cases 



182 AFRO-AMERICAN NEGRO AND SLAVE TRADE. 

for a dozen needles and a new shirt. This was termed legitimate trade 
but some slavers took a less expensive way of securing female slaves, for 
they made war on the people, massacred the males and bore away the 
female prisoners as slaves. Slavery of girls was, moreover, encouraged 
by the shameful usuage of fathers selling their daughters to the highest 
bidder, who might use them either as slaves or wives. A large family of 
girls was, therefore, a source of revenue to the father, who disposed 
of them in exchange for trinkets or cows, of which latter usually twelve 
to fifteen are paid for a fine looking young girl. 

Thanks to the efforts of the Christian missionaries and civilized gov- 
ernments of Europe and America these vicious practices had ceased 
long before Roosevelt put his foot on the soil where they once had been 
perpetrated. And had they not, we may rest assured that he would at 
once have put a stop to them. 

Vile as the slave trade :was it almost seems as if it had been a means 
in the hands of Divine Providence to help lift the Dark Continent out 
of the abyss of savagery and barbarism, for the descendants of the 
former slaves are returning to sow the seed of Christianity and organ- 
ized government among their kindred. On the west coast of Africa is the 
little negro republic of Liberia with a coast line of about 300 miles and 
extending 250 miles into the interior, including about 75,000 square miles 
of territory. 

The republic is at present inhabited by about 24,000 descendants of 
American negroes and 1,000,000 native Africans. The government is 
of course in the hands of the former, who speak the English language 
and try to uphold the banner of American civilization among the aborig- 
ines, who are divided in many tribes, speaking various dialects, and just 
emerging from the night of barbarism, under the dark shadow of which 
their ancestors not very long ago used to sacrifice children to propitiate 
their angry gods, roast people alive, break the bones of their victims, 
treat their women as slaves, and eat their enemies or captives. The 
torch of Christianity is now lighting up the darkness and spreading the 
gospel of Love and Wisdom in the former wilderness— thanks to the 
efforts of philanthropic Americans. 



CHAPTER XV. 

LIVINGSTONE, THE MISSIONARY AND EXPLORER. 

His Education and Early Ambitions — His Thirst for Knowledge — Studies Whole Morning in 
Factory — Intended to Go to China but Was Providentially Directed to Africa — His Ex- 
citing Experiences, Thrilling Adventures and Epoch-Making Discoveries in the Dark Con- 
tinent. 

AS Roosevelt sat on the deck of the magnificent steamer Hamburg, 
plying its way through the blue waves of the Mediterranean and 
leaving behind him Europe with its memories and ancient civili- 
zations he might have been seen re-reading the fascinating life story of 
Livingstone, the great and famous explorer who first opened the Dark 
Continent to advancing civilization. 

Livingstone's life excels in fascinating interest. It tells us about a 
youth who from his earliest years was inspired with an insatiable thirst 
for knowledge and actuated by high and noble motives. He tells us 
how at the age of ten he was put in a cotton factor-y to aid by his earnings 
in lessening bis mother's anxiety. With part of his wages he bought 
books, attended an evening school and his m,other often had to snatch 
the books out of his hands to prevent him from spending the whole 
night in studying. His working hours in the factory were from six in the 
morning till eight at night and his reading while at work was carried on 
by placing the book on a portion of the spinning jenny, so that he could 
catch sentence after sentence as he passed at his work. This enabled him 
to support himself while attending medical and Greek classes in Glas- 
gow in winter and divinity lectures in summer. He never received a 
lift from anyone and no doubt should have accomplished his project to 
go to China as a medical missionary by his own efforts, had not friends 
advised him to join the London Missionary Society on account of its un- 
sectarian. character, which exactly agreed with his ideas, for in his 
own words it "sends neither Episcopacy, nor Presbyterianism, nor Inde- 
pendency, but the Gospel of Christ to the heathen. ' ' 

183 



184 LIVINGSTONE, MISSIONARY AND EXPLORER. 

This society sent him not to China, where the opium war then was 
raging, but to Africa, whose first successful apostle he was destined to 
become. He set sail for the Cape and from this point proceeded to 
Kuruman, the farthest inland station of the Society. Here he stayed 
six months to learn the language of the natives and then continued his 
journey partly on foot, because his oxen were sick, to the valley of 
Mobatsa, which he selected as the site of a missionary station. This 
village was much annoyed by lions and here occurred one of his most 
famous adventures. We let him tell it in his own words : 

"It is well known that if one of a troop of lions is killed, the others 
take the hint and leave that part of the country. So, the next time t!he 
herds were attacked, I went with the people, in order to encourage them 
to rid themselves of this annoyance by destroying one of the marauders. 
"We found the lions on a small hill about a quarter of a mile in length, and 
covered with trees. A circle of men was formed round it, and they 
gradually closed up, ascending pretty near to each other. Being down 
below OH the plain with a native school-master, named Mebalwe, a most 
excellent man, I saw one of the lions sitting on a piece of rock within the 
now closed circle of men. Mebalwe fired at him before I could, and the 
ball struck the rock on which the animal was sitting. He bit at the 
spot struck, as a dog does at a stick or stone thrown at him; then 
leaping away, broke through the circle and escaped unhurt. The men 
were afraid to attack him, perhaps on account of their belief in witch- 
craft. When the circle was re-formed, we saw two other lions in it;l 
but we were afraid to fire lest we should strike the men, and they 
allowed these beasts to break through also. If the Bakatla had acted 
according to the custom of the country, they would have speared the 
lions in the attempt to get out. Seeing we could not get them to kill one 
of the lions, we bent our footsteps toward the village ; in going round the 
end of the hill, however, I saw one of the beasts sitting on a piece of rock 
as before, but this time he had a little bush in front. Being about 
thirty yards off, I took a good aim at his body through the bush, and 
fired both barrels into it. The men then called out: 'He is shot! He is 
shot!' Others cried: 'He has been shot by another man, too; let us go 
to him I' I did not see any one else shoot at him, but I saw the lion's 



LIVINGSTONE, MISSIONARY AND EXPLORER. 185 

tail erected in anger behind the bush, and turning to the people, said: 
'Stop a little, till I load again.' When in the act of ramming down the 
bullets, I heard a shout. Starting and looking half round, I saw the 
lion just in the act of springing upon me. I was upon a little height; 
he caught my shoulder as he sprang, and we both came to the ground be- 
low together. Growling horribly close to my ear, he shook me as a 
terrier dog does a rat. The shock produced a stupor similar to that 
which seems to be felt by the mouse after the first shake of the cat. It 
caused a sort of dreaminess, in which there was no sense of pain nor feel- 
ing of terror, though quite conscious of all that was happening. It was 
like what patients partially under the influence of chloroform describe, 
who see all the operation, but feel not the knife. This singular condition 
was not the result of any mental process. The shake annihilated fear, and 
allowed no sense of horror in looking round at the beast. This peculiar 
state is probably produced in all animals killed by the carnivora ; and if 
so, is a merciful provision by our benevolent Creator for lessening the 
pain of death. Turning round to relieve myself of his weight, as he had 
one paw on the back of my head, I saw his eyes directed to Mebalwe, who 
was trying to shoot him at a distance of ten or fifteen yards. His gun, a 
flint one, missed fire in both barrels ; the lion immediately left me, and 
attacking Mebalwe, bit his thigh. Another man, whose life I had saved 
before, after he had been tossed by a buffalo, attempted to spear 
the lion while he was biting Mebalwe. He left Mebalwe and caught this 
man by the shoulder, but at that moment the bullets that he had received 
took effect, and he fell down dead. The whole was the work of a few 
moments, and must have been the paroxysms of his dying rage. * * * 
Besides crunching the bone into splinters, he left eleven teeth wounds 
in the upper part of my arm. ' ' 

Livingstone had attached himself to a tribe known as the Bakwains, 
whose chief was converted to Christianity. He thought that the mission- 
ary's methods were too slow and recommended whips of rhinoceros hide 
as more effective, which help in evangelizing of course was declined. 
The chief was a polygamist and a noted rain-doctor. But he finally 
consented to send away his many wives and instead of doctoring the 
skies dug an irrigation canal, which supplied the country with all the 



186 



LIVINGSTONE, MISSIONARY AND EXPLORER. 




ELEPHANT AND ITS TOUNO. 



water it needed. After having staid there for some time, built school- 
houses and other buildings, and christianized the greater part of the 
tribe Livingstone continued his expedition northward until he discovered 
the shallow and muddy Lake Ngami. 

They witnessed many sights peculiar to this part of the world. One 



LIVINGSTONE, MISSIONARY AND EXPLORER. 187 

occurrence that particularly excited their curiosity was the behavior of a 
herd of elephants when drinking at the river. These huge animals would 
play like so many children in the water, throwing great quantities of it 
over each other, and screaming with delight at the fun. On finishing 
their sport and endeavoring to leave the water at a point where the 
bank was quite steep, a comical sight ensued of their desperate struggles 
to get out. The elephants about Ngami, they observed, were much 
smaller than farther south, the variation in height being as much as 
three feet. 

Several new kinds of animals were observed; and many different 
species of fish. The natives living along the Zouga are determined 
fishermen, for much of their food is drawn from the water. They use 
nets knotted like those of other countries; and also spear the fish 
with javelins having a handle so light that itTeadily floats on the surface. 
They show great dexterity in harpooning the hippopotamus; and the 
barbed blade of the spear being attached to a rope made of the young 
leaves of the palmyra, the animal cannot rid himself of the canoe, 
attached to him in whale fashion, except by smashing it, which he fre- 
quently does with his teeth or by a stroke of his hind foot. 

Proceeding further to the north he discovered the majestic Zambesi 
River, one of the largest waterways of the world. The country being 
very unhealthy he now sent his wife and children back to England and 
turned his steps alone to the interior. 

His journey was a slow one, delayed as it was by accidents and 
ravages of the Tsetse or fever fly. It was the last day of the year when 
he arrived at Kolobeng. By the middle of January they reached the 
Kalahari desert, but an unusual quantity of rain having fallen they did 
not suffer for water. Lions and ostriches are numerous in this country. 
Livingstone says of this bird : 

"The ostrich is generally seen quietly feeding on some spot where 
no one can approach him without being detected by his wary eye. As the 
wagon moves far along to the windward he thinks it is intending to cir- 
cumvent him, so he rushes up a mile or so from the leeward, and so near 
to the front oxen that one sometimes gets a shot at the silly bird. When 
he begins to run, all the game in sight follows his example. I have seen 



188 



LIVINGSTONE. MISSIONARY AND EXPLORER. 



this folly taken advantage of when he was feeding quietly in a valley open 
at both ends. A number of men would commence running, as if to cut 
off his retreat from the end through which the wind came ; and although 
he had the whole country hundreds of miles before him by going to the 
other end, on he madly rushed to get past the men, and so was speared. 
He never swerves from the course he once adopts, but only increases 
his speed. 




OSTBICH HUNTING IN THE DESEBT. 



"When the ostrich feeds, his pace is from twenty to twenty-two 
inches ; when walking, but not feeding, it is twenty-six inches ; and when 
terrified, as in the case noticed, it is from eleven and a half to thirteen 
and even fourteen feet in length. Only in one case was I at all satisfied 
of being able to count the rate of speed by a stop-watch, and if I am not 
mistaken, there were thirty in ten seconds; generally one's eye can no 
more follow the legs than it can the spokes of a carriage-wheel in rapid 
motion. If we take the above number, and twelve feet stride as the aver- 
age pace, we have a speed of twenty-six miles an hour. It cannot be very 



LIVINGSTONE. MISSIONARY AND EXPLORER. 189 

much above that, and is therefore slower than a railway locomotive. 
They are sometimes shot by a horseman making a cross cut to their unde- 
viating course, but few Englishmen ever succeed in killing them. ' ' 

In May he arrived at Linganti, the capital of Makololo, where "he 
was taken with the fever. Anxious to try the native cure for this disease 
he gave himself up to the treatment of one of the Makololo doctors. Of 
the result he says : "After being stewed in their vapor baths, smoked like 
a red herring over green twigs, and charmed secundum artem, I con- 
eluded that I could cure the fever much quicker than they. ' ' He offered 
to teach them to read but they declined alleging that it might make them 
content with one wife like other converts to Christianity. 

After remaining at Linyanti for about a month, Livingstone set out 
to ascend the river, Sekeletu, who had volunteered to accompany him, 
being his companion, together with about one hundred and sixty of his 
tribe. They traveled on land for some distance, but finally took to the 
canoes, of which thirty-three were required for the transportation of 
their party. 

The river was one which had never been explored by a white man 
thus far from the coast; and Livingstone could not sufficiently admire 
its grandeur. Along the banks were villages and fields which gave evi- 
dence of an industrious and jDrosperous people. They met with no 
particular difficulties in the ascent except at the cataract of Gouye, where 
the canoes had to be carried overland for more than a mile. The river 
was sufSciently high to make it possible to pass the rapids without 
portage. 

Their journey, however, was not attended by any special adventure 
until they reached Njambi, a callage of the Chiboque. They arrived 
here on Saturday, and the missionary expected to spend the ensuing 
Sunday in talking to the people. But his expectations were not fulfilled. 
The chief refused the gift of the hump and ribs of an ox which Living- 
stone had killed, and demanded that the traveler should present him 
with a man, an ox, or a gun. Oxen they had none to spare; of guns 
they had but five ; and the missionary had no notion of leaving one of 
his faithful servants in slavery. The young Chiboque brandished their 
weapons threateningly, but Livingstone was firm. He declared that 



190 LIVINGSiONE, MISSIONARY AND EXPLORER. 

he and his people would not strike the first blow, but that if attacked 
they would defend themselves. 

"It was rather trying for me, because I knew that the Chiboque 
would aim at the white man first; but I was careful not to appear flur- 
ried, and, having four barrels ready for instant action, looked quietly 
at the savage scene around. * * * The chiefs and counselors, seeing 
that they were in more danger than I, did not choose to follow our 
decision that they should begin by striking the first blow, and then see 
what we could do, and were perhaps influenced by seeing the air of 
cool preparation which some of my men displayed, and the prospect 
of a work of blood." 

A compromise was finally effected, and the party passed on. But 
their experience here was only an earnest of what would await them in 
the country to the west. 

In the meantime his Makololo attendants improved the time by 
becoming acquainted with the wonders of European architecture. They 
had been unable to comprehend how a house could be two stories high ; 
since their huts are made by sticking the poles in the ground so as to 
form a cone, and covering that with skins or thatch, they could not 
understand how the poles for the second story were provided with a 
foundation, or what use the second floor would be, with the peak of the 
lower hut projecting above its floor. One of them, who had seen Liv- 
ingstone's honse at Kolobeng, described it as a mountain with several 
caves in it. Now, however, they all understood this much. The Eng- 
lish vessels in port were another source of wonder; and they gravely 
pronounced these "towns;" designating them particularly as "towns 
that you climb into with a rope." The statement that these vessels, 
with their huge guns, were used to put down the slave-trade, afforded 
the poor creatures unalloyed gratification. 

Some of the difficulties of traveling through an African forest are 
succinctly stated in the following lines : 

"We pushed on through forests abounding in climbing plants, many 
of which are so extremely tough that a man is required to go in front 
with a hatchet ; and when the burdens of the carriers are caught, they 
are obliged to cut the climbers with their teeth, for no amount of tug- 



LIVINGSTONE, MISSIONARY AND EXPLORER. 191 

ging will make them break. The paths in all these forests are so 
zig-zag that a person may imagine he has traveled a distance a thirty 
miles, which, when reckoned as the crow flies, may not be fifteen." 

During this journey Livingstone suffered from twenty-seven at- 
tacks of fever and, therefore, was glad to at last arrive at Libonta, 
where he and his party were particularly cordially received; for they 
were looked upon as men risen from the dead ; the most skilful diviners 
having long before declared that they had perished. The missionary's 
means, acquired in Loanda, had all been spent, during a journey in 
which many delays had occurred, but this made no difference to the 
natives whose love had been won long before. They knew that Liv- 




HIPPOPOTAMI, 



Ingstone had been engaged in an effort to open the country to trade, and 
to suppress the slave-trade, and that was enough for them. Even Liv- 
ingstone's men said: "Though we return as poor as we went, we have 
not gone in vain." 

One of the adventures of the party shortly after they left Libonta 
is worth recording, as a characteristic accident: 

"I left Naliele on the 13th of August, and when proceeding along 
the shore at midday, a hippopotamus struck the canoe with her fore- 
head, lifting one-half of it quite out of the water, so as nearly to overturn 
it. The force of the butt she gave tilted Mashauana out into the river; 
the rest of us sprang to the shore, which was only about ten yards off. 



192 LIVINGSTONE, MISSIONARY AND EXPLORER. 

Glancing back, I saw her come to the surface a short way off, and looh 
at the canoe, as if to see if she had done much mischief. It was a 
female, whose young one had been speared the day before. No damage 
was done except wetting person and goods. This is so unusual an 
occurrence, when the precaution is taken to coast along the shore, that 
my men exclaimed: 'Is the beast mad!' There were eight of us in the 
canoe at the time, and the shake it received shows the immense power 
of this animal in the water." 

Long before this, Livingstone had heard that a party of Matabele 
had brought a number of parcels to the south bank of the Zambesi, and 
left them there in the care of the Makololo. The two tribes are sworn 
enemies, and the Makololo would not believe that Mr. Moffat had sent 
these goods to Dr. Livingstone, as the bearers told them. The Matabele 
answered : 

"Here are the goods; we place them now before you, and if you 
leave them to perish the guilt will be yours." 

After much divination, and with fear and trembling, the Makololo, 
who feared some attempt to bewitch them, built a hut over the jaarcels, 
and there Livingstone found them safe on his return in September, 
1855, exactly a year after they reached that destination. Among other 
things, there was a copy of an address by Sir Roderick Murchison before 
the Eoyal Geographical Society, in which he stated his conviction that 
the interior of Africa was not a vast plateau, but a vast basin, flanked 
by mountains and highlands. This was the very same conclusion to 
which Livingstone had come, although with infinitely more difficulty: 

"In his easy-chair he had forestalled me by three years, though I 
had been working hard through jungle, marsh, and fever, and since the 
light dawned upon my mind at Dilolo, had been cherishing the pleasing 
idea that I should be the first to suggest the idea that the interior of 
Africa was a watery plateau of less elevation than flanking hilly ranges." 

From this point they went directly to Linyanti, where the m:en who 
had accompanied him were at last able to tell their own people of the 
wonderful things that they had seen. They had gone to the end of the 
world, and had only turned back when there was no more land. 



LIVINGSTONE, MISSIONARY AND EXPLORER. 193 

Escorted by Sekeletu and his followers as far as the island of Kalai, 
two days' journey below the mouth of the Chobe, he determined to visit 
the great cataract of the Zambesi to which he has given an English 
name— Victoria Falls : 

' ' Of these we had often heard since we came into the country ; indeed, 
one of the questions asked by Sebituane was, 'Have you smoke that 
sounds in your country?' They did not go near enough to examine 
them, but viewing them with awe at a distance, said, in reference to 
the vapor and noise, 'Mosi oa tunya' (smoke does sound there). It was 
previously called Shongwe, the meaning of which I could not ascertain. 
The word for a pot resembles this, and it may mean a seething caldron, 
but I am not certain of it. Being persuaded that Mr. Oswell and myself 
were the very first Europeans who ever visited the Zambesi in the 
center of the country, and that this is the connecting link between the 
known and the unknown portions of that river, I decided to use the 
same liberty as the Makololo did, and gave the only English name I 
have affixed to any part of the country. * * * * After twenty min- 
utes' sail from Kalai we came in sight, for the first tiinie, of the columns 
of vapor appropriately called 'smoke,' rising at a distance of five or 
six miles, exactly as when large tracts of grass are burned in Africa. 
Five columns now arose, and, bending in the direction of the wind, they 
seemed placed against a low ridge covered with trees ; the tops of the 
columns at this distance appeared to mingle with the clouds. They 
were white below, and higher up became dark, so as to simulate smoke 
very closely. The whole scene was extremely beautiful ; the banks and 
islands dotted over the river are adorned with sylvan vegetation of 
great variety of color and form,. * * * * The falls are bounded on 
three sides by ridges 300 or 400 feet in height, which are covered with 
forest, the red soil appearing among the trees. * » * j ^[^ not 
comprehend it until, creeping with awe to the verge, I peered down into 
a large rent which had been made from bank to bank of the broad Zam- 
besi, and saw that a stream of a thousand yards broad leaped down a 
hundred feet and then became suddenly compressed into a space of 
fifteen or twenty yards. * * * On the left side of the island we 

had a good view of the mass of water which causes one of the columns 
u 



194 LIVINGSTONE, MISSIONARY AND EXPLORER. 

of vapor to ascend, as it leaps quite clear of the rock, and forms a thick 
unbroken fleece all the way to the bottom. Its whiteness gave the idea 
of snow, a sight I have not seen for many a day. As it broke into (if I 
may use the term) pieces of water, all rushing on in the same direction, 
each gave off several rays of foam, exactly as bits of steel, when burned 
in oxygen gas, give off rays of sparks. The snow-white sheet seemed 
like myriads of small comets rushing on in one direction, each of which 
left behind its nucleus rays of foam. I never saw the appearance re- 
ferred to noticed elsewhere. It seemed to be the effect of the mass of 
water leaping at once clear of the rock, and but slowly breaking up 
into spray." 

It was nearly the end of November when Sekeletu parted from him 
and returned home; Livingstone then turned toward the north, and 
traveled for a few days over a beautiful but uninhabited district. There 
was a great abundance of game here, and on several occasions the lions 
approached unpleasantly close to their camp, but did no damage. 

They had just passed Zumbo when the traveling procession was in- 
terrupted in a manner that is well worth description : 

"Tsetse and the hills had destroyed two riding oxen, and when the 
little one that I now rode knocked up, I was forced to miarch on foot. 
The bush being very dense and high, we were going along among the 
trees, when three buffaloes, which we had unconsciously passed above 
the wind, thought that they were surrounded by men, and dashed 
through our line. My ox set off at a gallop ; and when I could manage 
to glance back, I saw one of the men up in the air about five feet above 
a buffalo, which was tearing along with a stream of blood running down 
his flank. When I got back to the poor fellow, I found that he had 
lighted on his face, and though he had been carried about twenty yards 
on the horns of the buffalo before getting the final toss, his skin was 
not pierced nor was a bone broken. When the beasts appeared, he had 
thrown down his load and stabbed one in the side. It turned suddenly 
upon him, and before he could use a tree for defense, carried him off. 
We shampooed him well, and in about a week he was able to engage in 
the hunt again." 



CHAPTER XVI. 
LIVINGSTONE'S SECOND JOURNEY THROUGH AFRICA 

The Expedition to the Zambesi River-Livingstone and his Makololo-The Elephant Marshes 
The 5f ;7g;;^^"'j^^,^^_Hippopotamus Trap-The Great Unwashed-Lake Nyassa-Ascen 
of ZambesT-Insolent Ferrymen-The Victoria Falls-"The White Man Must Be Saved 
!!Fre"nrslaves-Heart Rending Stories-Slave Hunters' Escape-A Desolated Country 
—Robbed— Arrival of Slaves. 

DURING the course of bis first journey Livingstone had become 
thorougb'.y well acquainted with the slave-trade as earned on 
in the interior of Africa. He believed the great remedy for the 
existin- evil would be the opening up of the country to commerce; if 
the tribes of the interior could trade directly with the white man, and 
exchan-e their ivory and other articles of produce for the cloths and 
manufa^ctured goods which they covet, there would be no temptation 
for them to capture slaves and trade them for these desired articles. 
It was for this reason that, having failed to find a suitable place for the 
establishment of a missionary station, he gave up that idea, and made 
his way across the continent to Loanda, and then back again to the 
mouth of the Zambesi. Returning to England, his narrative of the time 
.vhich he had spent in Africa aroused men to a longing to increase the 
missionary aid sent to that continent. _ 

But Livingstone had advanced beyond the position of a missionary; 
Ms views had broadened so that he was no longer content to spend his 
days in one place, teaching the people around him; he was eager and 
anxious to put down the slave-trade, by showing the people who supplied 
the market that a more lucrative business could be established m the 
development of the agricultural and mineral resources of their country. 
The government and the Royal Geographical Society lent him their 
heartiest aid; and the expedition to the Zambesi was undertaken very 
soon after his return to England. 



196 



LIVINGSTONE'S SECOND JOURNEY. 



Livingstone was made consul, which, of course, gave this undertak- 
ing a semi-national character, and enabled him to deal with other 
powers to much better advantage. The most liberal provision was 
made in the way of supplies, which even included a small steam-launch, 
named the ' ' Ma-Eobert. ' ' This was sent out from England in sections, 
and put together at the mouth of the Zambesi. 




KATFIR KBAAL. 



Dr. Livingstone s brother, Eev. Charles Livingstone, who had been 
living for some years in the United States, was a member of the expedi- 
tion ; also Dr. Kirk, the celebrated botanist. They left England March 
10, 1858, and reached the mouth of the Zambesi in May. Their instruc- 



LIVINGSTONE'S SECOND JOURNEY. 



197 



tions were to extend the knowledge already attained of the geography 
and mineral and agricultural resources of Eastern and Central Africa ; 
to improve their acquaintance with the inhabitants, and to endeavor to 
engage them to apply themselves to industrial pursuits and to the culti- 
vation of their lands wih a view to the production of raw materials to 
be exported to England in return for British manufactures. Their first 
object was to exjilore the Zambesi, its mouths and tributaries, with a 




SLATES AND THEIB HABDSHIFS. 



view to their being used as highways for commerce and Christianity to 
pass into the vast interior of Africa. They entered the Biver Luawe 
first, because its entrance is so smooth and deep that the vessel could 
easily go in without a boat sounding ahead. Here the Ma-Robert was 
screwed together, and launched as the proper vessel for these coast 
explorations. 

They found the Luawe unnavigable at a short distance above its 
mouth, by reason of the vegetable matter in the channel; after ascend- 



198 LIVINGSTONE'S SECOND JOURNEY. 

ing about seventy miles, it ended in a marsh, being only a tidal river 
after all. They now resolved to try the East Luabo, as the main stream 
of the Zambesi is called. This proved to be the river which they sought, 
although it was xiot then known that the Zambesi has four separate 
mouths. 

The Pearl, the vessel in which they had come from England, accom- 
panied the Ma-Eobert as far as the Island of Simbo ; when tinding that 
the river was becoming too shallow for her draught (9 feet 7 inches) 
she steamed down the river, after having landed the goods belonging 
to the expedition on a small island; and the exiDedition to the Zambesi 
was fairly launched on its independent career. 

The country around the mouth of the Zambesi had long been in the 
possession of the Portuguese; but their maps of it had been anything 
but reliable. It is charged that they had represented the Quillimane as 
the true mouth of the Zambesi, in order to promote and protect the slave 
trade; if the British vessels, and those of other nations, sent out to 
watch for slavers, could be persuaded to keep a close lookout on the 
Quillimane, as the outlet of the Zambesi, the slavers could readily sail 
down the true Zambesi and get safely out to sea before they should be 
discovered. Be this as it may, it is certain that one official Portuguese 
map had the mouth of the Mazaro, a narrow creek which in time of 
flood communicates with the Quillimane, as the point at which the Zam- 
besi began to discharge its waters into the more northern river. As a 
fact, this creek is some six or eight feet above the level of the Zambesi, 
except, as mentioned, during periods of very high water. 

Arrived at the mouth of this creek, the members of the expedition 
found that they had run into a veritable hornets' nest. A half-caste 
named Mariano or Matakenya had built a stockade near the mouth of 
the Shire, and carried on his trade as a slave-hunter. So long as he con- 
fined his depredations to the tribes of the interior, the indignation of 
the Portuguese settlers was not aroused; but he was allowed to send 
his kidnaped victims in chains to Quillimane, thence to be sent to the 
French Island of Bourbon. But as soon as Mariano began to practice 
violence on the people nearer at hand, under the very guns of the fort, 
the whites began to protest. Mariano paid no attention ; and Dr. Liv- 



LIVINGSTONE'S SECOND JOURNEY. 



199 



ingstone was told, by a gentleman of the highest standing, that it was 
no uncommon occurrence for a slave to rush into the room where the 
informant's fami.y was at dinner, pursued by one of Mariano's men 
with spear in hand to murder him. 

War was declared against Mariano, and a force was sent to take 
him. He resisted for a time; but knowing that Portuguese governors 
have small salaries, and are amenable to bribery, he went down to Quil- 




A ZULU DINNER PARTY. 



limane to "arrange" with the governor. Bat that official was of a dif- 
ferent stamp from most of his predecessors ; and clapped the atrocious 
murderer into prison. When the English explorers came into the coun- 
try, Mariano 's brother, Bonga, was at the head of the rebel forces ; and 
the contest was waging fiercely. 

The fact that ihey were Englishmen proved to both parties at once 
what were their opinions regarding the slave trade ; yet they were re- 
garded as friends by Bonga 's forces as well as by the Portuguese. On 



200 LIVINGSTONE'S SECOND JOURNEY, 

more than one occasion, they were almost in the midst of a fight; but 
hapi^ily escajDed unharmed, and able to preserve their neutrality. 

The right bank of the Zambesi is held by the Landeens or Zulus, to 
whom the Portuguese pay a pretty heavy annual tribute. Eegularly 
every year the Zulus come to Senna and Shupanga to collect this tribute, 
which is really paid by the few wealthy merchants of Senna. They 
submit to pay two hundred pieces (sixteen yards each) of cloth, besides 
beads and brass wire, etc., to secure themselves from being plundered 
in war. The Zulu is like the Irish landlord of tradition; the more his 
tenants cultivate, the higher tribute he demands. On asking some of 
the Portug-uese why they did not try to raise certain highly profitable 
products, the Englishmen received this characteristic reply: 

"What's the use of our cultivating any more than we do? The Lan- 
deens would only come down on us for more tribute." 

They arrived at Tette Sept. 8, and Dr. Livingstone at once went 
ashore. He was received by the Makololo with the most affecting joy ; 
tempered with a ludicrous respect for his new clothes. Some were 
hastening to embrace him; when others cried out: 

"Don't touch him; you will spoil his new clothes," 

LIVINGSTONE AND HIS MAKOLOLOS. 

Dr. Livingstone had heard, while he was in England, that his Mako- 
lolos who had not returned to their own country were to receive from 
the Portuguese government a sufficient support ; but he found now that 
no such rumor had ever reached Africa ; they had been given hoes and 
land sufficient for gardens by a generous officer of that government, but 
it had been a gift paid for out his own pocket ; and they had maintained 
themselves by means of these gardens, and by cutting and selling wood. 
These now readily attached themselves to the expedition; and the leader 
was only too glad to have assistants whose faithfulness had been tried. 

Ascending the river, they carefully examined the Kebrabasa Rapids. 
After making their way seven or eight miles up through the swift cur- 
rent, they saw that this was not feasible until they knew what was to 
come next; and anchoring the little steamer below the rapids, proceeded 
to ascend the bank of the stream on foot. The stones upon the path 



LIVINGSTONE'S SECOND JOURNEY. • 201 

were so hot that the soles of the Makololo's feet were blistered; but 
still they continued to advance. The Makololo told Dr. Livingstone 
that they had always thought that he had a heart, but that now they, 
knew he had none ; and appealed to Dr. Kirk to return, since the leader 
must have gone mad before he determined to go where no living foot 
could tread. Unfortunately for the Makololo, Dr. Kirk did not under- 
stand a word of their language ; and Dr. Livingstone, knowing him to 
be as anxious as himself to explore the Kebrabasa, did not think it worth 
while to translate. 

At last, however, they arrived at the cataract of Morumba, which 
is a sloping fall of about twenty feet in thirty yards. It is sufiBcient to 
stop all navigation except in the highest floods, when the river some- 
times rises eighty feet above the level of the dry season. 

They retraced their footsteps, then; although not exactly over the 
same path; they crossed Mount Morumba, which rises very near the 
fall, and camped on its side the first night of their return journey. As 
their guide had told them, the people were very ready to sell them pro- 
visions as long as they appeared to be leaving the country; in fact the 
ignorant people manifested the most unreasoning opposition to an ex- 
pedition the objects of which were beyond their comprehension. The 
story is told that shortly after their departure from Tette, the river 
rose a foot and became turbid. A native Portuguese went to the gov- 
ernor with a grave face and complained that that Englishman was 
"doing something to the river." 

Finding that it was impossible to take their steamer of only ten- 
horse-power through Kebrabasa, and convinced that, in order to force 
a passage when the river was in flood, much greater power was required, 
due information was forwarded to her majesty's government, and ap- 
plication made for a more suitable vessel. In the mean time, they turned 
their attention to the River Shire, a northern tributary of the Zambesi, 
which joins it about a hundred miles from the sea. The Portuguese 
could tell them nothing concerning this stream, except that it was cov- 
ered with a mass of aquatic plants, which they pronounced impassable. 
They received a hint, however, that it was not the duckweed, but the 
hostility of the natives which had caused the one Portuguese expedition 



202 LIVINGSTONE'S SECOND JOURNEY. 

for the exploration of this river to return without making any consid- 
erable progress. 

Their first trip to the Shire was in January, 1859. A considerable 
quantity of duckweed floated on the river for the first twenty-five miles, 
but not enough to obstruct navigation. They met with the first obstruc- 
tion at the village of a chief named Tingane. This chief had always 
been the barrier to all intercourse between the Portuguese black traders 
nnd the natives farther inland; but on the explorers telling him that 
they had come neither to take slaves nor to fight, but only to open up a 
path by which their countrymen might come to purchase cotton or any- 
thing else that he had to sell (except slaves) he became at once quite 
friendly, and the men who had been dodging behind trees to take aim 
at the strangers with their poisoned arrows, came out and listened to 
tlie words of the missionary. 

They ascended the Shire for a distance of about one hundred miles 
from its mouth; although the windings of the river are such that this 
distance represents about two hundred miles of actual travel. At this 
point, their further progress was stopped by the rapids, the first of 
which was named by them Murchison Falls. During the time that they 
were ascending the river, the natives kept a strong guard on the bank, 
night and day; apparently distrusting the strangers. The general 
opinion which the natives of this portion of Africa entertain in regard 
to white men does not speak well for the Portuguese, the first whites 
with whom they became acquainted. 

THE ELEPHANT MASSHES. 

A second trip up the Shire was begun about the middle of March. 
Thanks to their conciaating behavior on the previous journey, they 
found the natives extremely well disposed toward them. Leaving the 
banks of the river about ten miles below the falls, Drs. Livingstone and 
Kirk, with a number of Makololo, started on foot lor Lake Shirwa. They 
traveled in a northerly direction over a mountainous country, among 
people who did not seem to be well-disposed, and with guides who were 
far from being trustworthy. This unreliability was partly due to their 
ignorance of the country and the language; they asked to be led to 



LIVINGSTONE'S SECOND JOURNEY. 203 

"Nyanja Mukulu," or Great Lake, meaning thereby Lake Shirwa; but 
since the word Nyanja, or Nyanza, means a lake, river, marsh, or even 
a rivulet, the guides did not clearly understand them, and conducted 
them to 'the Great Elephant Marsh. 

From this point, the party pressed on without guides, or with crazy 
ones. Eegarding these, Dr. Livingstone says : 

"They were often under great obligations to the madmen of the 
different villages ; one of these honored them, as they slept in the open 




IN THE GBEAT ELEPHANT MABSH. 



air, by dancing and singing at their feet the whole night. These poor 
fellows sympathized with the explorers, probably in the belief that they 
belonged to their own class ; and uninfluenced by the general opinion of 
their countrymen, they really pitied, and took kindly to the strangers, 
and often guided them faithfully from place to place, when no sane man 
could be hired for love or money." 

The perseverance of the party was finally crowned with success; 
for on April 18 they discovered Lake Shirwa, a body of bitter water, 
having no outlet, and containing leeches, fish, crocodiles and hippo- 
potami. Their point of view was at the base of Mount Pirimiti or 
Mopeupeu, on its south-southwest side. Thence the prospect north- 



204 LIVINGSTONE'S SECOND JOURNEY. 

wtird ended in a sea horizon with two small islands in the distance ; a 
larger one, resembling a hil'-top and covered with trees, rose more in 
the foreground. Ranges of hiLs appeared on the east, and on the west 
stood Mount Chikala. The shore, near which they spent two nights, was 
covered with reeds and papyrus. 

From the people living near the lake, they gathered that there was 
a much larger one to the north, separated from Shirwa on'y by a tongue 
of land. But they considered that enough had been done for one expedi- 
tion ; it would be better to return from this point, and, having gained the 
confidence of the natives as far as this, make another trip for the explora- 
tion of countries beyond. They accordingly went back to their vessel 
on the Shire. 

They reached Tette June 23, and from that point proceeded to the 
Kongone for the necessary repairs upon their vessel. They again 
ascended the Zambesi in August, and about the middle of that month 
reached the mouth of the Shire, which they proposed to ascend once 
more, and make, from the head of navigation, an overland trip to Lake 
Nyassa. 

HIPPOPOTAMUS TRAPS. 

They found the banks lined with hippopotamus traps; for the ani- 
mals were evidently very plentiful, if the tracks on the bank were any 
guide. The hippopotamus feeds only on land, and crops the grass as 
short and even as a mowing machine. The trap consists of a beam five 
or six feet long, armed with a spear-head or hard-wood spike, covered 
with poison, and suspended from an overhanging branch by a cord, 
which, coming down to the path, is held by a catch, to be set free when 
the brute treads on it. Being wary beasts, they are very numerous, 
even where these traps are plentiful. One got frightened by the ship 
as she was steaming close to the bank. In its eager hurry to escape it 
rushed on shore, and ran directly under a trap, when down came the 
heavily weighted beam on its back, driving the poisoned spear-head a 
foot deep into its flesh. In its agony it p'unged back into the river, to 
die in a few hours, and afterwards furnished a feast for the natives. 
The poison on the spear-head affects only that part of the flesh which 



LIVINGSTONE'S SECOND JOURNEY. 



205 



is directly around the wound, and this is always thrown away. In some 
places the descending wood is weighted with heavy stones, but in others 
the hard, heavy wood needs no extra weight. 

As they passed the neighborhood of the Great Elephant Marsh, they 
saw many elephants ; but these sagacious animals soon learned that the 




NATIVES HUNTING AH ELEPHANT. 



puffing monster was a thing to be avoided, and fled in terror before the 
approach of the steamer. They succeeded, however, in catching a fine 
young elephant alive, as he was climbing up the bank to follow his dam; 
but after he was drawn on board, he was woimded by one of the men, 
and died in a few days. 

They left ship August 28, 1859, for the discovery of Lake Nyassa. 
The party numbei'ed four whites, thirty-six Makololo, and two guides. 



206 LIVINGSTONE'S SECOND JOURNEY. 

The party was unnecessarily large, but it was thought that the strength 
of numbers would prevent attack from natives inclined to be hostile, and 
command respect from others. For the same reason, each one carried 
a musket, although many of the Makololo had never drawn a trigger. 
They were a week in crossing the highlands in a northerly direction; 
and having reached the Upper Shire valley, some 1200 feet above the 
sea-level, they were detained for some days by the sickness of one of 
the white men. 

They found that the natives of this region were considerably ad- 
vanced, in respect to their manufactures. They weave cotton cloth, by 
painfully slow processes ; make pottery, and dig the iron ore out of the 
hills and make it into good axes, spears, needles, arrow-heads, bracelets, 
and anklets. Every village has its charcoal-burners, its smelting-house, 
and its blacksmiths. They weave neat baskets from split bamboos, and 
make fish-nets of a plant-fiber from their hills. 

THE GEEAT UNWASHED. 

These people, judging from the old men and women who came to 
look on the white men, are generally long-lived; but they do not owe 
their longevity to cleanliness; an old man told them that he remembered 
to have washed once in his life, but it was so long ago that he had for- 
gotten how it felt. They were much annoyed by one man, who persisted 
in preceding them from viHage to village and proclaiming that they had 
wandered ; that they did not know where they were going. Persuasions 
and remonstrances were alike in vain; finally, he was informed that 
they were going to take him down to the river and wash him ; he dis- 
appeared and was seen no more. 

The language here was so unlike those dialects with which Dr. Liv- 
ingstone was acquainted, that they were obliged to have recourse to an 
interpreter. This man, Masakasa, had an unbounded faith in anything 
that was said in a book; on one occasion, this faith served them well. 
The natives had persistently asserted that there was no such lake as 
that of which they were in search ; but Masakasa knew that the lake was 
m-entioned in a book, and grew indignant accordingly. 



LIVINGSTONE'S SECOND lOURNEY. 207 

"There is a lake," said lie to the natives, "for how could the white 
men know about it in a book if it did not exist ?" 

Then they r.dmitted that there was a lake ; and were probably not a 
little impressed by the white man's magical knowledge of things he had 
never seen. They pressed on, and discovered Lake Nyassa a little before 
noon of September 16, 1859. They could make out that there were hills 
on both sides of the lake, looking from their point of view at the southern 
end ; but the haze from burning grass prevented their seeing very far. 
They learned afterward that they preceded a German explorer, Dr. 
Roscher, by about two months in the discovery of this lake. The only 
results of his discovery, however, were told in the depositions of his 
servants after they arrived at the Cape; for he was murdered by the 
natives shortly after reaching the lake. 

THE SLAVE TRADE, 

They were now among the Ajawa, who furnished a large number of 
slaves to the market, and are more debased in this traffic than most 
other tribes, since they sell each other. The chief with whom they re- 
monstrated seemed ashamed of selling his own people, but apologized 
by saying that he sold only those who were bad. The party made but a 
short stay at Lake Nyassa, being, as usual, anxious to persuade the 
natives that they had no other object in view than to see the country. 
After a land- journey of forty days, they returned to the vessel October 
6. It was necessary to send two of their number across the country from 
the Shire to Tette ; and Dr. Kirk and Mr. Rae, the engineer, undertook 
the journey. But during their absence, the vessel began to leak so 
badly that they were obliged to go to the Kongone again for repairs. 
The steel plates were defective, and had been damaged by some chem- 
ical action shortly after the vessel was launched, so that they were full 
of minute holes. It leaked so badly that they were frequently compelled 
to mop up the cabin floor, and the engines proved so unsatisfactory that 
the Ma-Eobert was re-christened the "Asthmatic." Returning from 
the sea, it was nearly the end of April, 1860, before they again reached 
Tette. 



208 



LIVINGSTONE'S SECOND JOURNEY. 

ASCENT OF ZAMBESI. 



As they proceeded up the Zambesi toward the country of the Mako- 
lolo, they found that many of the Makololo, -who had descended the river 
■vrith Dr. Livingstone in 1856, deserted them ; the reason of this was, that 
these men had formed new ties in Tette, marrying slave-wives; they 
could not take their wives or children with them, and gradually deserted 
the party until all who had married in Tette had left. Yet at setting 




CBU£I.rT OF SLAVE ISA0EB3. 



out, they had declared that they wished to return to their own country. 
They of course left the Asthmatic below, as she could not ascend the 
Kebrabasa; this was no matter of regret to the Makololo who had been 
compelled to cut the wood for her fires on the former journeys. One of 
them laughingly exclaimed in broken English : 



LIVINGSTONE'S SECOND JOURNEY. 209 

"Oh, Kebrabasa good, very good; no let shippee up to Sekeletu, 
too muchee work, cuttee woodyee, cuttee woodyee; Kebrabasa good." 

They arrived at the Chicova plains, the level country above the 
Kebrabasa hills, June 7, and at Zumbo, on the left bank of the Loanwa, 
on the 26th. Here they had some difficulty in getting ferried across the 
river ; the ferrymen were all tipsy, and did not come when they were 
expected. Having a waterproof cloak, which could be inflated into a 
small boat, they sent one of their attendants across in this improvised 
canoe. At the summons thus delivered, three men brought them the 
shaky canoes, lashed together. Five men were all that could be taken 
at a trip ; and after four trips, the ferrymen began to clamor for drink. 
The travelers had none to give; and they became insolent, declaring 
that not another man should cross that day. One of the Makololo began 
to remonstrate with them, when a loaded musket was presented at him 
by one of the trio. In an instant the gun was out of the rascal's hands, 
a rattling shower of blows fell on his back, and he took an involuntary 
header into the river. He crawled up the bank a sad and sober man,, 
and all three fell at once from the height of saucy swagger to a low depth 
of slavish abjectness. The musket was found to have an enormous 
charge, and might have blown the Makololo to pieces but for the promp- 
titude with which his companions administered justice in a lawless band. 
They were all ferried safely across the river by eight o'clock in the 
evening. 

On the 4th of August they reached Moachemba, the first of the 
Batoka villages which then owed allegiance to Sekeletu. From this 
point, they could see distinctly, with the naked eye, the columns of vapor 
rising from Victoria Falls, although the cataract was twenty miles 
away. Here they learned that many of the Makololo had been regarded 
as dead, not having been heard of since they accompanied Dr. Living- 
stone to the sea. They also learned that a recent effort to establish a 
missionary station at Linyanti had proved a failure and been abandoned. 
On the 9th, they set out to visit the falls, in the canoes of a native named 
Tuba Mokoro, who was said to possess the best "medicine" for ensuring 
safety in the rapids above the falls. This important personage forbade 
all talking while in the canoes, as it might impair the power of the medi- 



210 LIVINGSTONE'S SECOND JOURNEY.' 

cine; and the white men, fearing to distract the steersman's attention 
when it might be critically necessary for him to attend to his business, 
obeyed unhesitatingly. They found that the hippopotami had trodden 
down the fruit trees which Dr. Livingstone had planted on his previous 
visit; and now erected a strong hedge for protection to newly sown 
seeds. There was not much hope, however, but what the same animals 
would break down the hedge. 

LEPK OSY. 

Arriving at the town of Sekeletu, they found that, as they had been 
told, the chief was afiiicted with the leiorosy. He had been treated by 
several different doctors of his own tribe, and was now under the care 
of an aged negress who had come from some distance especially to take 
this case. Sekeletu, however, insisted upon placing himself at once 
under the care of the white doctor ; and Drs. Livingstone and Kirk gave 
him the best remedies, internal and external, that their store of medi- 
cines afforded. He considered that his disease was the result of en- 
chantment practiced by one of his enemies, and could not be persuaded 
otherwise. It was the opinion of his white physicians that the disease 
was rather due to the inordinate quantities of matokwane, or Indian 
hemp, which he smoked ; and they could hardly induce him to give it up 
while he was under their treatment. 

They found, indeed, that many of the natives are slaves of this 
pernicious habit, which makes the smokers feel strong in body, but 
weakens and finally destroys the mind. Both men and women indulge 
freely in its use; although the men do not like their wives to follow their 
own example, and sometimes forbid it entirely. 

Dr. Livingstone determined now to go to Linyanti, in order to pro- 
cure some medicines and other articles which he had left there in his 
wagon, eight years before. He found them all intact, and the wagon in 
fairly good condition, although the cover was, as might be expected, 
very rotten. The people inquired affectionately after "Ma-Eobert" 
and her children, and asked why he had not brought them. 

"Are we never more to know anything of them but their names?" 
asked the affectionate creatures, whose love had been won years before. 



LIVINGSTONE'S SECOND JOURNEY. 



211 



Eeturning to Shesheke by a trip whicli required three days, the party 
left that point September 17, 1860, taking with tbem a number of Mako- 
lolo who were to return with additional medicines for Sekeletu. The 
path now pursued was a little nearer the river than that by which they 
had come, in order to see Kalunda and the Moamba Falls. They passed 
over a rugged country, with many hills and perennial streams, of which 
the Sindi was the finest for irrigation. They encamped on the Kolomo 
on the 1st of October; and on the 5th, after crossing some hills, rested 
at the village of Simariango. 



w^^^m^ri^m 




LANUl^'G or THE EXl'LuiUCIiS 0»N TU£ ZAMBEtil. 



A considerable part of their journey eastward was made by water; 
and in at least one instance, their attendants showed their faithfulness. 
Entering the narrow gorge called Karivua, the huge waves of the mid- 
current began at once to fill the canoes. With great presence of mind,, 
and without the least hesitation, two mien lightened each by jumping 
overboard ; they then ordered a Batoka to do the same. 



212 LIVINGSTONE'S SECOND JOURNEY. 

"I cannot swim," he replied. 

"Jump out, then, and hold on to the canoe," they answered him; 
"for the white men must be saved." 

Swimming alongside, they guided the swamping canoes down the 
swift current to the foot of the rapid, and then ran them ashore to bale 
them out. Thanks to the bravery of these poor fellows, nothing was 
lost, although everything was well soaked. A few hundred yards 
brought them to another rapid; but as this was worse than the first 
the canoes had to be unloaded, and the goods carried about a hundred 
yards. 

They continued their voyage down the river, not leaving their canoes 
until they arrived at Kebrabasa; here their bearers complained much 
about having to carry the goods, and wished that they had tried the 
rapids. This difSeulty over, they reached Tette early on the morning of 
the 23rd of November, having been absent a little over six months. The 
Zambesi being unusually low, they remained at Tette till it rose a little, 
and then left on the 3rd of December for the Kongoue. Here their vessel 
was laid up for repairs ; but the attempt was useless. New leaks broke 
out every day ; the engine-pump gave way ; the bridge broke down ; three 
compartments filled at night. On the morning of the 21st the vessel 
grounded on a sandbank and filled; she could neither be emptied nor 
got off; the river rose during the night, and all that could be seen of her 
the next morning was about six feet of her two masts. Thus ended the 
Ma-Eobert, otherwise the Asthmatic. 

On the 31st of January, 1861, their new ship, the Pioneer, arrived 
from England, and anchored outside the bar of the Kongone; but the 
weather being stormy, she did not venture into the harbor until five 
days later. Two cruisers came at the same time, on board one of which 
were Bishop Mackenzie and his assistants, for the Universities' Mis- 
sions. 

The bishop desired them to take him and his colleagues up the Shire 
as far as Chibisa's, supposing that that would be a suitable place to 
establish the mission; but Dr. Livingstone, remembering the fate of 
the station at Linyanti, and fearful that, as there were no medical men 
on the bishop's staff, they might fall victims to the African fever, ob- 



LIVINGSTONE'S SECOND JOURNEY. 



213 



jected very strongly to this plan. In addition to this reason, was another : 
the Portuguese government refused to open the Zambesi to the ships of 
other nations, and it was therefore impolitic to expend so much labor at 
this point, when others that were equally important and miore easily 
accessible were neglected. Finally, it was decided that the bishop should 
accompany the Zambesi expedition to the Kovuma, which their new 
instructions bade them explore, and ascertain whether the country 




FISHING IN HIE ZAMBESI UIVER. 



around its headwaters was suitable for the establishment of a station. 
The other members of the mission were to proceed in one of the cruisers, 
to Johanna, and there await the orders of their superior. 

Arriving at the mouth of the Rovuma toward the end of February, 
it was not until the 11th of March that they proceeded up the river, 
which had fallen four or five feet while they were delayed at the mouth, 
awaiting the arrival of the bishop; for he had chosen to go this far 
in the cruiser Lyra. But the river fell rapidly as they ascended, and as 
the Marqh flood is the last of the season, they saw that the only thing 
to save the Pioneer from being hopelessly grounded was to get her back 



214 LIVINGSTONE'S SECOND JOURNEY. 

to salt water as quickly as possible. Had the expedition been absolutely 
unincumbered, they would have left the ship and pushed on in boats or 
on foot, and done what they could toward the exploration of the river 
and Lake Nyassa, from which it was supposed to flow; but they were 
anxious to advance the work of the mission; and therefore, decided to 
return to the Shire, see the mission party safely settled, and after- 
ward explore Lake Nyassa and the Rovuma from the lake downward. 
Fever broke out on board the Pioneer at the mouth of the Eovuma, and 
the vessel was soon left, through the illness of the officers, to the man- 
agement of Dr. Livingstone. 

They arrived at the mouth of the Zambesi after a prosperous voy- 
age, and steamed up to the mouth of the Shire without any special 
adventure. Their vessel, however, was not well adapted for their pur- 
pose in one particular: her draught was too great, being five feet, for 
the Shire. Much of their time was spent in getting her off sand-bars, 
and she could not venture down the river until a rise had increased 
its depth. 

FREEING SLAVES. 

Arrived at Chibisa's village, they left the river, July 15, and with a 
sufficiently strong party, went inland to show the bishop a suitable 
station for the mission. Halting at the village of Mbame. they were 
told that a slave party on its way to Tette would presently pass 
through. "Shall we interfere?" they asked of each other. The ques- 
tion was a difficult one to answer, for all of their valuable goods had 
been left at Tette, and if they were to interfere to free these slaves, 
the owners of them might retaliate by procuring the destruction of 
these stores. But the slave-hunters had taken advantage of the ex- 
pedition's opening the country to white men, and had persistently 
dogged their footsteps in places where they had never dared to venture 
before. The Englishmen therefore resolved to run all risks and put a 
stop, if possible, to the slave-trade, which had followed on the foot- 
steps of their discoveries. A few minutes after Mbame had spoken to 
them, the slave party, a long line of manacled men, women and children, 
came wending their way around the bill and into the valley, on the side 



LIVINGSTONE'S SECOND JOURNEY. 215 

of which the village stood. The black drivers, armed with muskets, 
and bedecked with various articles of finery, marched jauntily in the 
front, middle, and rear of the line; some of them blowing exultant 
notes out of a long tin horn. They seemed to feel that they were doing 
a very noble thing, and might proudly march with an air of triumph ; 
but the instant the fellows caught a glimipse of the English, they darted 
off like mad into the forest— so fast, indeed, that they caught but a 
glimpse of their red caps and the soles of their feet. The chief of 
the party alone remained, and he, from being in front, had his hand 
tightly grasped by a Makololo. He proved to be a we'.l-known slave of 
the late commandant at Tette, and for some time the Englishmen's at- 
tendant while there. On asking him how he obtained these cap- 
tives, he answered that he had bought them ; but on inquiry being made 
of the people themselves, all, save four, said they had been captured in 
war. While this inquiry was going on, he bolted, after his men. 

The captives knelt down, and in their way of expressing thanks, 
clapped their hands with great energy. They were thus left entirely 
on the hands of the whites, and knives were soon at work, cutting the 
women and children loose. It was more difficult to cut the men adrift, 
as each had his neck in the fork of a stout stick, six or seven feet long, 
and kept in by an iron rod which was riveted at both ends across the 
throat. "With a saw, luckily in the bishop's baggage, one by one the 
men were sawn out into freedom. The women, on being told to take the 
meal they were carrying and cook breakfast for themselves and the 
children, seemed to consider the news too good to be true ; but after a 
little coaxing, went at it with alacrity, and made a capital fire by which 
to boil their pots with the slave sticks and bonds, their old acquain- 
tances through many a sad night and weary day. Many were mere 
children of five years and under. One little boy, with the simplicity of 
childhood, said to one of the liberators: 

"The others tied and starved us; you cut the ropes and tell us to 
eat; what sort of people are you? Where did you come from?" 



216 



LIVINGSTONE'S SECOND JOURNEY. 

HEAKT-EENDING STORIES. 



The stories that the captives had to tell were heart-rending: two 
women had been shot the day before for attempting to untie the thongs ; 
this, the rest were told, was to prevent them from attempting to es- 
cape. One woman had her baby's brains knocked out because she 
could not carry the load and it; and a man was dispatched with an 




AFBICAN BEVDSW OF TBOOPS. 



axe because he had broken down with fatigue. Eighty-four, chiefly 
women and children, were liberated ; and on being told that they were 
now free, and might go wherever they wished, or remain with their 
liberators, they all chose to stay; and the bishop decided that they 
should be attached to the mission, to be educated as members of a 
great Christian family. 

They proceeded next morning to Soche's with their liberated party, 
the men cheerfully carrying the bishop's goods. As they had begun, 



LIVINGSTONE'S SECOND JOURNEY. 217 

it was of no use to do the things by halves, so eight others were freed in 
a hamiet on their path; but a party of traders, with nearly a hundred 
slaves, fled from Soehe's on hearing of these proceedings. Dr. Kirk 
and four Makololo followed them with great energy, but they got off 
clear to Tette. Six more captives were liberated at Mongazi's, and 
two slave-traders detained for the night, to prevent their carrying 
information to a still larger party in the front. Of their own accord 
they volunteered the information that the governor's servants had 
charge of the next party; but the Englishmen did not choose to be led 
by them, though they offered to act as guides to his excellency's own 
agents. Two of the bishop's black men from the Cape, having once 
been slaves, were now zealous emancipators, and volunteered to guard 
the prisoners during the night. So anxious were these heroes to keep 
them safe, that, instead of keeping watch and watch, both kept watch 
together till toward four o'clock in the morning, when sleep stole 
gently over them both, and the wakeful jirisoners, seizing the oppor- 
tunity, escaped. One of the guards, perceiving the loss, rushed out 
of the hut, shouting: 

SLAVE HUNTERS ESCAPE. 

"They are gone! The prisoners are off! And they have taken my 
rifle with them, and the women, too! Fire! Everybody fire!" 

The rifle and the women, however, were safe enough, the slave- 
traders being glad to escape alone. Fifty more slaves were freed the 
next day in another village; and, the whole party being stark naked, 
cloth enough was left to clothe them, better probably than they had 
ever been clothed before. The head of this gang, whom the libera- 
tors recognized as the agent of one of the principal merchants of 
Tette, said that they had the license of the governor for all that they 
did. This was no news to the Englishmen, who were convinced that 
it was quite impossible for any enterprise to be undertaken there 
without the governor's knowledge and connivance. 



218 LIVINGSTONE'S SECOND JOURNEY. 

A DESOLATE COUNTKy. 

They now approached the Manganja country, where they had seen 
such evidence, on the previous journey, of progress in manufactures. 
The country was now desolated by a war between the inhabitants and 
the Ajawas; the villages were all deserted; the stores of corn were 
poured out in cartloads, and scattered all over the plains, and all along 
the paths, neither conquerors nor conquered having been able to con- 
vey it away. About two o'clock they saw the smoke of burning vil- 
lages, and heard triumphant shouts, mingled with the wail of Man- 
ganja women, lamenting over their slain. The bishop then engaged 
the company of Englishmen in fervent prayer; and on rising from 
their knees, they saw a long line of Ajawa warriors, with their cap- 
tives, coming round the hill-side. The first of the returning conquer- 
ors were entering their own village below, and were welcomed back 
by the women with "lillilooings." The Ajawa head man left the path 
on seeing the whites, and stood on an ant hill to obtain a good view 
of their party. They called out that they had come to have an inter- 
view with his people, but some of the Manganja, who followed them, 
shouted : 

"Our Chibisa is come!" 

Chibisa being well known as a great conjurer and general. The 
Ajawa ran off, yelling and screaming: 
"Nliondo! Nl-ondo!" (War! War!) 

The whites heard the words of the Manganja, but did not think 
of them at the moment as neutralizing all their own expressions re- 
garding laeace. The captives threw down their loads on the path, 
and fled to the hills ; and a large body of armed men came running up 
from the village, and in a few seconds were all around the whites, 
though mostly concealed by the projecting rocks and long grass. In 
vain the Englishmen jarotested that they had not come to fight, but 
to talk with them. Thej^ would not listen, having good reason in the 
cry of "Our Chibisa." Flushed with recent victory over three vil- 
lages, and confident of an easy triumph over a mere handful of men, 
they began to shoot their poisoned arrows, sending them with great 
force upward of a hundred yards, and wounding one of the Makololo 



LIVINGSTONE'S SECOND JOURNEY. 



219 



through the arm. The slow withdrawal of the English up the ascent 
from the village only made them more eager to prevent their escape; 
and in the belief that this retreat was the evidence of fear, they closed 
upon the little party with bloodthirsty fury. Some came within fifty 
yards, dancing hideously; others, having quite surrounded them, and 
availing themselves of the rocks, and long grasses hard by, were in- 




KAFFIB WARBIOKS SKIRMISHING. 



tent on cutting them off, while others made off with their women and 
a large body of slaves. Four were armed with muskets ; and the Eng- 
lishmen were obliged in self-defense to return their fire and drive 
them off. When they saw the range of the rifles, they very soon de- 
sisted and ran away; but some of them shouted to the whites from the 
hill the consoling intimation that they would follow, and kill them 
where they slept. Only two of the captives escaped to the English- 
men, but probably most of those made prisoners that day fled else- 



220 LIVINGSTONE'S SECOND JOURNEY, 

where in the confusion. The whites returned to the village which they 
had left in the morning, after a hungry, fatiguing, and most unpleasant 
day. 

Though the explorers could not blame themselves for the course 
which they had pursued, they felt sorry for what had happened. It 
was the first time they had ever been attacked by the natives or had 
come into collision with them; though they had always taken it for 
granted that they might be called upon to act in self-defense they were 
on this occasion less prepared than usual, no game having been ex- 
pected here. The men had only a single round of cartridge each ; their 
leader had no revolver, and the rifle he usually fired with was left at 
the ship, to save it from the danip of the season. Had they known 
better the effect of slavery and murder on the temper of these blood- 
thirsty marauders, they would have tried messages and presents be- 
fore going near them. 

The bishop, feeling as most Englishmen would at the prospect of 
the i^eople now in his charge being swept off into slavery by hordes 
of men-stea!ers, proposed to go at once to the rescue of the captive 
Manganja, and drive the marauding Ajawa out of the country. All 
were warmly in favor of this save Dr. Livingstone, who opposed it on 
the ground that it would be better for the bishop to wait, and see the 
effect of the check the slave-hunters had just experienced. On the 
bishop inquiring if in the event of the Manganja asking aid against 
the Ajawa, it would be his duty to accede to the request: 

"No," replied Dr. Livingstone, "you will be oppressed by their* 
importunities, but do not interfere in native quarrels." 

It would have been better if the bishop had followed this advice, 
which he mentions in his journal. 

The members of the mission now having proceeded far enough to 
be able to form^ their own opinion of the country, the Zambesi expedi- 
tion left them, and returned to the ship. A few days after their re- 
turn, a party consisting of Dr. Livingstone, Dr. Kirk, and Charles 
Livingstone started for Lake Nyassa with a light four-oared gig, a 
white sailor, and a score of attendants. They hired people along the 
path to carry the boat past the forty miles of the Murchison Cataracts 



LIVINGSTONE'S SECOND JOURNEY. 221 

for a cubit of cotton cloth a day. This was such magnificent pay, that 
twice the required number of men eagerly offered their services; 
crowds followed them,; and it was only by taking down the names of 
the porters engaged in the morning that they could dispute claims 
made by those who had only helped during the last ten minutes of 
the evening. 

After passing the cataracts, they launched their boat upon the 
broad and deep waters of the Upper Shire, and were virtually on the 
lake, for the gentle current shows but little difference of level. The 
natives regard the Upper Shire as a prolongation of Lake Nyassa ; for 
where what the explorers called the river approaches Lake Shirwa, 
a little north of the mountains, they said that the hippopotami, "which 
are great night travelers," pass from one lake into the other. There 
the land is flat, and only a short land journey would be necessary. 

The geographical features of the lake which they now entered have 
becom'e comparatively well known since that day, so that it is unneces- 
sary here to enlarge upon the subject; nor were they impressed, as 
other discoverers have been, with the grandeur of the scene before them 
when they first came in sight of it. At this second entrance into Lake 
Nyassa, as on the previous occasion, the air was full of smoke from 
burning grass, and their view was consequently extremely contracted. 

By Chitanda, near one of the slave-crossing places, they were 
robbed for the first time in Africa, and learned by experience that 
these people, like miore civilized nations, have expert thieves among 
them. It might have been only a coincidence, but they never suffered 
from imprudence, loss of property, or were endangered, unless among 
people familiar with slaving. They had such a general sense of se- 
curity, that never, save when they suspected treachery, did they set a 
watch at night. Their native companions had, on this occasion, been 
carousing on beer, and had removed to a distance of some thirty yards ; 
that their free and easy after-dinner remarks might not be heard by 
their employers. Two of the whites had a slight touch of fever. Be- 
tween three and four o'clock in the morning some light-fingered gentry 
came, while the explorers slept ingloriously— rifles and revolvers all 
ready— and relieved them of mlost of their goods. The boat's sail, 



222 LIVINGSTONE'S SECOND JOURNEY^. 

under which they slept, was open all around, so that the feat was 
easy. One of them felt his pillow moving, but in the delicious dreamy 
state in which he lay, thought it was one of the attendants adjusting 
his covering, and so, as he fancied, let well enough alone. 

BOBBED. 

Their consternation on awaking in the morning and finding their 
clothing, .beads, and rice gone, may well be imagined. Tbeir first ques- 
tion to each other was: "Is the cloth gone?" For the loss of that would 
have been equivalent to all their money. Fortunately, the parcel had 
been used as a pillow that night, and thus was safe. The rogues left 
on the beach a pair of boots and the aneroid barometer, also some 
dried plants and fishes; but they carried off many other specimens 
which had been collected, some of the notes of the journey, and nearly 
all of their clothing. They coixld not suspect the people of the village 
where they lay; they had probably been followed by the thieves for 
several days, watching their opportunity. 

They found that the northern end of the lake was the scene of 
lawlessness and bloodshed. So threatening did the various parties of 
natives appear, that the attendants of the explorers, who were making 
the journey bj^ land, while the white men kept to the boat, became 
afraid to go on, unless a white man should join their party; and indeed, 
the danger was not small. Dr. Livingstone accordingly left the boat, 
and having taken the first morning's journey along with them, and 
directing the boat .to call for him at a bay in sight, both parties pro- 
ceeded north. In an hour Dr. Livingstone and his party struck in- 
land, on approaching the foot of the mountains which rise abruptly 
from the lake. Supposing that they had heard of a path behind the 
high range which there forms the shore, those in the boat held on their 
course ; but it soon began to blow so fresh that they had to run ashore 
for safety. While delayed for a couple of hours, two men were sent 
up the hill to look for the land party, but they could see nothing of 
them, and the boat party sailed as soon as it was safe to put to sea, 
with the conviction that the missing ones would regain the lake in 
front. 



LIVINGSTONE'S SECOND JOURNEY. 223 

The boat passed a couple of parties, evidently lake pirates, who 
assured them that there was a path behind the hills. Pursued by an- 
other party of pirates, they put their boat to its utmost speed to es- 
cape ; and after sailing twelve or fifteen miles north of the point where 
Dr. Livingstone had left them, a gale compelled them to seek shelter 
in a bay. A succession of gales prevented their advancing or going 
back to the point whence they had started. 

In the meantime. Dr. Livingstone and his party had tried the path 
behind the hills, and found it so bad as to be almost impassable. They 
therefore turned back to the coast, expecting to find the boat; but only 
saw it disappearing away to the north. They pushed on as briskly 
as possible after it, but the mountain-flank which forms the coast 
proved excessively tedious and fatiguing; traveling all day, the dis- 
tance made, in a straight line, was under five miles. As soon as day 
dawned the march was resumed ; and after hearing at the first inhabited 
rock that their companions had passed it the day before, seven Mazitu 
suddenly appeared before them. These demanded presents, and be- 
came boisterous; but the quiet persistence of Dr. Livingstone made 
them retreat. Their presence showed that there was more of less 
danger to be encountered. The next night was spent, unconsciously, 
on the very brink of a precipice; the party having traveled during 
every moment of daylight, and fearing to kindle a fire lest it should 
attract the attention of the Mazitu. The next night was also spent 
without fire, except a little for cooking the flesh of a goat which they 
killed. The next day. Dr. Livingstone was delighted to see the boat 
coming back, having been separated from his companions for four 
days. 

Their exploration of the lake extended from the 2nd of September 
to the 27th of October, 1861 ; and having expended or lost most of the 
goods they had brought, it was necessary to go back to the ship. They 
reached the vessel November 8, in a very weak condition, having suf- 
fered more from hunger than on any previous trip. Bishop Mackenzie 
came down to the ship to visit them, and gave a glowing account of his 
success at the mission. It was hoped that it could soon be made self- 
sustaining to a considerable degree. 



224 



LIVINGSTONE'S SECOND JOURNEY. 



The river was rapidly and steadily falling; and they were obliged 
to wait until it should begin to rise, before the Pioneer could cross 
the bars. Not until January 7 did they leave their anchorage at Ruo, 
reaching the Zambesi on the 11th. Arrived at Tette, they expected to 
be called to account, in some way, for liberating the slaves ; but beyond 
a mere mention of the fact by one of the owners of the liberated cap- 
tives, nothing was said; all the others seemed to be ashamed to speak 
of it. 




CANOES ON I.AEE SHIBWA, 



Descending the Zambesi, they anchored in the Great Luabo mouth ; 
and here, January 30, the British vessel Gordon arrived, bringing 
Mrs. Livingstone and some ladies who were to join their relatives 
connected with the Universities' Mission. This vessel also brought out 
the sections of a new iron steamer intended for the navigation of Lake 
Myassa, called the Lady of the Lake, or Lady Nyassa. Owing to the 
rivers being in flood, their progress up stream was extremely slow; 



LIVINGSTONE'S SECOND JOURNEY. 225 

and they were finally obliged to put the hull of the Lady Nyassa to- 
gether, and tow her up to Murchison Falls. 

They were naturally anxious, as they progressed, to receive news 
of the mission; but it was some tim,e before they were able to learn 
anything of it. At last, however, they learned that the bishop and 
Mr. Burrup had both died, from the consequences of exposure during 
a trip undertaken to rescue some of their "Mission family" of liber- 
ated slaves, who had been recaptured. The bishop's sisters and Mr. 
Burrup 's wife had arrived on the Gordon, and just reached the Shire 
in time to learn the sad news of the two deaths. 

Shortly after this, the surviving members of the mission decided 
to remove to the lower Shire valley— a course which had the fatal con- 
sequences that Dr. Livingstone foresaw. 

DEATH OF MRS. LIVINGSTONE. 

Many members of the Zambesi expedition were prostrated by the 
fever, which seems to have raged with unusual virulence this year; 
and they noticed that an extraordinary number of natives wore the 
stripes of palm-leaf which are their sign for sickness and mourning. 
In April, Mrs. Livingstone was taken down; and after a few days' ill- 
ness, died April 27, 1862. She had come out again to Africa, thinking 
to assist her husband in his work as she had done before ; but was 
taken before she could reach those who affectionately remembered "Ma- 
Robert." She was buried at Shupanga, under the shade of a wide- 
spreading baobab tree. 

After many delays, the Lady Nyassa was launched on the 23rd of 
June. In accordance with their customs, the natives hotly discussed 
the question of what would be the result of putting so much iron in 
the water ; some affinning that it would go to the bottom at once, others 
asserting that the white men had powerful medicine that would en- 
able them to keep even iron from sinking. Dr. Livingstone frequently 
notes the warm discussions which the negroes of this part of Africa 
hold over any question upon which they chance to differ ; these discus- 
sions often ending in laying wagers as to the event of a given course. 

"■3 



226 LIVINGSTONE'S SECOND JOURNEY. 

When the discussion cannot be settled this way, one party will chal- 
lenge the other to a foot-race, and the winner is held to have been in 
the right. 

HOSTILE PORTUGUESE OFFICIALS. 

The Portuguese officials threw so many obstacles in the way of 
ascending the Zambesi, that they at last concluded to explore the 
Rovuma, at least until the water of the Zambesi should be at a stage 
which would not assist these officers in their efforts to detain them. 
They accordingly sailed for the mouth of the Eovuma. The first peo- 
ple with whom they met were inclined to be hostile; but as they as- 
cended the river, they found them more friendly. At last, after travel- 
ing about a hundred and forty miles by the river's course from the 
sea, or nearly two degrees of longitude in a straight line from the 
coast, they were obliged to stojD. The river was narrow and full of 
rocks, with a rapid divided into such narrow passages that only a 
native canoe could pass through them. The natives reported a worse 
place above their turning-point, the passage being still narrower. They 
now saw that their easiest path to Nyassa was by way of the Shire, 
even with the Portuguese officials in the way ; and they decided to return 
and try that path again. They reached the Pioneer October 9, and put 
to sea nine days later. 

Their destination as the Zambesi, but their fuel failed, and they 
were obliged to put into Quillimane. The delay thus occasioned 
brought them to the Zambesi so late in the season, that that river was 
very low, and their progress was correspondingly impeded. While 
waiting the March rise, they unscrewed the Lady Nyassa at a point about 
five hundred yards below the first cataract, and began to make a road 
over the thirty-five or forty miles of land portage by which to carry 
her up piecemeal. 

The valley of the Shire had been well populated when they saw it on 
their former expeditions ; but now, the results of the slave-trade, com- 
bined with those of a famine induced by drought, had turned the once 
smiling country into a wilderness. Everywhere that they turned, they 
saw desolation ; and the living were not enough to bury the dead. De- 



LIVINGSTONE'S SECOND JOURNEY. 



227 



caying corpses poisoned the atmosphere, or floated down the river in 
too great numbers for the over-gorged crocodiles to consume. The 
effect upon the spirits of the explorer^ may be imagined; and when to 
this feeling was added sickness, it was judged best that the two who 
suffered most severely physically, should return home. These were 




CABEYING THE STEEL BOAT AND CUTTING A PATH THBOUGH THE FOBEST. 



Dr. Kirk and Charles Livingstone. The parting took place May 19; 
and with them went all the whites that could be spared. 

On the 2nd of July, a dispatch was received from Earl Russell, 
containing instructions for the withdrawal of the expedition. The 
attempt to open up this portion of Africa to trade was regarded as 
practically hopeless, while the Portuguese government maintained such 
an attitude— counteracting the effect of its open instructions to its 



228 LIVINGSTONE'S SECOND JO URNE Y. 

officials by actual private instructions, or by allov?ing abuses of au- 
thority which practically nullified the laws made in Lisbon. In the 
then condition of the river, however, it was useless to attempt a return 
to the sea. 

They accordingly decided to make an exploratory journey on foot 
to the northward. Crossing the country to the southern shores of 
Lake Nyassa, they skirted the western coast of that body of water al- 
most half-way to the northern end; then, by a three days' journey to 
the westward, reached a village on the banks of a tributary of the' 
Loangwa. It was now the latter part of September; and if they were 
to take advantage of the winter floods, they could not afford to go 
farther. From this point, their path was, with slight variations, that 
by which they had come. Eeaching the ship, they took advantage of 
a rise about the middle of January to sail down the Shire, and, after 
some delays, occasioned by waiting to take on board some members of 
the helpless "Mission famity" of Bishop Mackenzie, the mission hav- 
ing now been abandoned, they reached Zanzibar April 16, 1864: ; and 
after two weeks spent there, directed the course of the Lady Nyassa 
to Bombay. Early in June, after sailing more than twenty-five hundred 
miles, they sighted Bombay; the expedition to the Zambesi had com* 
to an end. 



CHAPTER XVII. 

LIVINGSTONE'S LAST EXPEDITION. 

Attendants and Arrivals — Misfortunes — The Open Sore of the World — Loss of Medicines — 
Illness— A Marriage — An Earthquake — Serious Illness — Theft of Goods — "Sorest Delay I 
Ever Had" — Broken Hearts — A Journey Through Dangers — Death Threatened Thrice In 
One Day — Destitute — The Darkest Hour — The Dawn — The Stars and Stripes at Ujiji — 
Henry M, Stanley — Hardships — His Last Prayer — His Death Discovered. 

THE Zambesi expedition, described in the previous chapter, was 
substantially a failure; and no one felt this more keenly than 
its illustrious leader. Not only had he spent thousands of pounds 
of the Government's money and of his own, without attaining any ap- 
preciable result, or at least any such result as had been expected, but 
his failure had brought the whole subject of African exploration into 
disfavor with his countrymen. He returned to England, a disappointed 
man. But although the popular feeling was now as much against the 
exploration of Africa as at the close of the first journey it had been in 
favor of it, there were some whose interest was not lightly to be 
changed. The president of the Royal Geographical Society still held 
the work as of the same importance ; and it was Sir Roderick Murchi- 
son who, almost as soon as he had returned, proposed that the ex- 
plorer should undertake a third journey, for the purpose of fixing the 
true water-shed of Inner Southern Africa. After much difficulty, Sir 
Roderick persuaded that Government to advance five hundred pounds 
for this purpose; the Council of the Royal Geographical Society sub- 
scribed as much more; and "a valued private friend" of Dr. Living- 
stone's placed a further thousand pounds at his disposal. 

The expedition was organized at Bombay, and proceeded thence 
to Zanzibar. From this point, Livingstone sailed down the coast to 
Mikindany Bay, near the mouth of the Rovuma River; thence they 
were to proceed overland to Lake Nyassa. 

229 



230 



LIVINGSTONE'S LAST EXPEDITION. 



ATTENDANTS AND ANIMALS. 

His attendants numbered thirty-six. Of these, three had been with 
him on the previous trip, employed, not at the beginning, but after the 
arrival of the Pioneer; of these we shall have occasion hereafter to 
single out Susi by name. Two of his attendants were among the slaves 
liberated by the party when Bishop Mackenzie was with it; of these, 
Chuma is the one whose name has been perpetuated by what he did 
for his master. 




TBAVELEES AND THE MIEAGE. 



Six camels, two buffaloes and a calf, two mules, and four donkeys, 
were the animals attached to the expedition. It should be noted that 
while the bite of the tsetse is fatal to the horse and to cattle, it does 
not affect the donkey or the mule any more than it injures the wild 
beasts or man. This fact will explain the reason for selecting these 
animals. 



LIVINGSTONE'S LAST EXPEDITION. 231 

They reached Eovuma Bay March 22, 1866; and landed April 6, 
at the point chosen. Then the march began, nearly due west, as they 
followed the course of the river. The journey to the lake is naarked 
only by misfortunes. The camels proved as vulnerable to the tsetse as 
cattle, and all died from the bites. The mules and three donkeys suc- 
cumbed to the ill-usuage of their drivers. The thirteen Sepoys muti- 
nied, and then proved so worthless that Dr. Livingstone was obliged to 
dismiss them; the ten Johanna men deserted in a body; one of the nine 
Nassick boys died, and another met some of his friends and con- 
cluded to remain with them. Thus the expedition of thirty-seven which 
had left Zanzibar had dwindled down to a little group of twelve per- 
sons. 

The first hundred pages of his journal of this expedition are melan- 
choly reading; containing, as they do, little beyond the record of events 
which would have discouraged a less determined explorer to the point 
of retracing his footsteps and giving up the effort: and of devices for 
easing the pangs of hunger; for which the folly and laziness of the 
attendants themselves were largely responsible. But Liviiigstone's 
was too great a mind to be shaken by such adverse winds as these; and 
he pressed steadily forward. 

THE OPEN SOEE OF THE WORLD. 

There is yet another element of sadness in these early pages of his 
journal. Even in the first stages of his journey, there was again laid 
bare to his eyes "the great open sore of the world," as the slave-trade 
has fitly been styled. In a little more than two months after leaving 
the coast, the first indications that they were on the track of the slave- 
traders appeared. First, they passed by a woman tied by the neck to 
a tree, and dead; the people of the surrounding country explained 
that she had been unable to keep up with the other slaves in a gang, 
and her master had determined that she should not become the property 
of any one else if she recovered after resting a time. They saw others 
tied up in a similar manner, and others lying in the path shot or 
stabbed, a pool of their own blood surrounding them. The explana- 
tion which the traveler invariably received was that the Arab who 



232 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST EXPEDITION. 

owned these victims was enraged at losing his money by the slaves be- 
coming unable to m,arch, and vented his spleen by murdering them. 
Dr. Livingstone remarks that the traders are quite well aware that 
such an example as this spurs the others to renewed endeavors to keep 
up with the march, even when their strength is rapidly failing them. 
In other cases, they found slaves who were dying of starvation, having 
been abandoned because they could not go on, or because the trader 
found his stock of provisions insuiBcient for those under his charge. 

On the 8th of August, he again reached the shores of Lake Nyassa, 
this time at the mouth of the Masinje Eiver. "It was as if I had come 
back to an old home I never expected again to see," he writes; "and 
pleasant to bathe in the delicious waters again, hear the roar of the 
sea, and dash in the rollers." He remained at this point for several 
days, taking observations, and writing up his journal fully. Then 
he skirted the southern shore of the lake, reaching the western borders 
September 25. 

It had been his intention to strike directly north-west from Nyassa 
for the exploration of Lake Tanganyika; but the intervening country 
was filled with hostile Mazitu, and it was not safe for his little party 
to attempt to cross it. He therefore resolved to journey directly west 
until he reached the Zalyanyama Mountains, and then to proceed nearly 
due north until the lake was reached. 

AN AFRICAN SPONGE. 

Most of the country crossed in this westward journey was lowland, 
of the kind known in Africa as "sponges." Wherever a plain sloping 
toward a narrow opening in hills or higher ground exists, we have the 
conditions requisite for the forming of an African sponge. The vege- 
tation, not being of a peat-forming kind, falls down, rots, and then 
forms a rich black loam. In many cases, a mass of this loam, two or 
three feet thick, rests on a bed of pure river sand, which is revealed 
by crabs and other aquatic animals bringing it to the surface. In the 
dry season, the black loam is cracked in all directions, and the cracks 
are often as much as three inches wide, and very deep. The whole 
surface falls down and rests on the sand; but when the rains come, 



LIVINGSTONE'S LAST EXPEDITION. 



233 



the first supply is nearly all absorbed in the sand. The black loam 
forms soft slush, and floats on the sand. The narrow opening prevents 
it from moving off in a landslip, but an oozing spring rises at that 
spot. All the pools in the lower portion of this spring-course are 
filled by the first rains, which happen south of the equator when the 
sun goes vertically over any spot. The second, or greater rains, hap- 
pen in his course north again, when all the bogs and river-courses be- 
ing wet, the sui^ply runs off, and forms th* inundation. This was cer- 




UAULING OF STEAMEE THROUGH THE VEGETATION. 



tainly the case which Livingstone had observed on the Zambesi and the 
Shire; and taking the different times for the sun's passage north of 
the equator, he considered that it explained the inundation of the 
Nile. 

It may be inferred that traveling over ground of this nature was 
not the easiest thing in "the world ; but so long as the little party was 
not thrown among hostile tribes, it did not matter so much. The peo- 
ple through whose territory they were passing were Manganja, a very 
industrious race, combining agriculture and hunting with nets with 
various handicrafts, such as weaving and working in iron. 

The Manganja are very ceremonious in their demeanor toward 



234 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST EXPEDITION. 

each other ; and were very friendly to the strangers. In return for the 
food and native sweet beer with which the chiefs generally provided 
them at each stopping-place, Livingstone usually gave a "cloth," (two 
yards of unbleached muslin), and so little clothing is worn in this 
country that this was considered quite a munificent payment. Owing, 
however, to the raids and forays of the Mazitu, food was very scarce 
in some localities, and more than once the caravan was almost on the 
verge of starvation. 

They crossed the Loangwa, the great northern tributary of the 
Zambesi, the middle of December; and reached the Chambeze late in 
the following January (1867). But before they got to the banks of 
this latter river, they had met with a loss which affected the whole after 
history of the expedition; and the editor of Livingstone's Last Jour- 
nals has advanced the statement that this loss materially hastened his 
death, by leaving him without the means of counteracting fever, and 
thus allowing his constitution to be undermined. 

The desertion of so large a number of his men in the very outstart 
of the expedition had made him dependent upon the people of the 
country through which he passed for porters and for guides; the 
Johanna men had been intended chiefly for the latter purpose. 

They were traveling through the forest near the Lobo, having just 
set out from Lisunga. Their guides were two Waiyau who had joined 
them some time before, and who were considered perfectly trust- 
worthy because of their uniform good conduct ever since they had joined 
the caravan. A boy named Baraka, who was very careful, had charge 
of the medicine box, which was packed with a parcel containing five 
large cloths and all Baraka 's clothing and beads. The Waiyau offered 
to exchange burdens for a while with Baraka, his own being the lighter 
(his real reason was that his own contained no cloth). Baraka con- 
sented. The fugitives watched their chance, and suddenly disappeared 
in the dense forest. Besides Baraka 's package, they took all ^he 
dishes, a large box of powder, some flour, for which a high price had 
been paid, the tools, two guns, and a cartridge-pouch. The loss of these 
things was bad enough, but the great loss was the medicine. Living- 
stone says: "I felt as if I had now received the sentence of death, 



LIVINGSTONE'S LAST EXPEDITION. 235 

like poor Bishop Mackenzie," whose medicines had been wetted and 
rendered worthless by the upsetting of a boat. 

The caravan returned to Lisunga, and men were at once sent out 
to scour the surrounding country for a trace of the fugitives. Living- 
stone was aware that they could attach no value whatever to the medi- 
cine-chest but would throw it and its precious contents away as soon 
as they had got the clothing and beads out of the parcel. 

They remained for two days at Lisunga, and then, having bought 
all the provisions which the chief had to sell, were obliged to push 
forward in spite of the rain. For the next few days, tliey had much 
difficulty in obtaining food; but looked forward to great plenty when 
they should have reached the village of the jDOwerful Chitapangwa. 

This was called Molemba; and they came to it about noon of the 
last day of January. It was surrounded by a triple stockade, the 
inner being defended also by a deep, broad ditch, and a hedge of 
a thorny shrub, resembling the tomato or nightshade family. Chita- 
pangwa sent to inquire if they desired an audience ; and the messenger 
informed them that they must take something in their hands the first 
time they went to see so great a man. Dr. Livingstone was tired from 
marching, and sent word that he would not come until evening. About 
five o'clock he sent notice of his coming. They passed through the 
inner stockade, and then to an enormous hut, where sat Chitapangwa, 
with three drummers and ten or more mem, with two rattles in their 
hands. The drummers beat furiously, and the rattlers kept time 
to the drums, two of them advancing and receding in a stooping 
posture, with rattles near the ground, as if doing the chief obeisance ; 
but still keeping time with the others. The traveler declined to sit on 
the ground, and so an enormous tusk was brought for him. The chief 
saluted courteously. He had a fat, jolly face, and legs loaded with 
brass and copper leglets. Dr. Livingstone mentioned his losses by the 
desertion of the Waiyau, but as power is merely nominal, Chitapangwa 
could do nothing. After talking a while, he conducted his guest to a 
group of cows, and pointed out one. 

"That is yours," he said politely. 



236 



LIVINGSTONE'S LAST EXPEDITION. 



The tusk on which the explorer had sat was also sent after him to 
his quarters, as being his. Before they separated, Chitapangwa put 
on the cloth which Livingstone had given him, as a token of accept- 
ance; and further showed his gratitude by sending two large baskets 
of sorghum to the stranger's hut after dark. The gift of the cow, how- 
ever, proved a delusion and a snare ; for when the traveler would have 
it killed the nest day, a man interfered, and pointed out a much 




THb LuUltr OF A 6LACK KINO. 



smaller one; an appeal to the chief ended in his having to pay Chit- 
apangwa about four times the value of the animal in cloth, and then 
the savage was not satisfied. 

Sending a number of letters from this point by means of a small 
party of Arab slavers, who were on their road to Zanzibar, Dr. Living- 
stone remained at this village about three weeks. This stay was partly 
on account of illness, as he was taken down with the fever, which he 



LIVINGSTONE'S LAST EXPEDITION. 237 

had no means of curing. But much of the time was spent in negotiating 
for food with Chitapangwa. 

THE DRIVEE-ANTS. 

About the middle of March, they met with an enemy who had not 
before been encountered. Dr. Livingstone says : 

"A shower of rain set the driver-ants on the move, and about two 
hours after we had turned in we were overwhelmed by them. They 
are called kalandu, or nkalanda. To describe this attack is utterly 
impossible. I wakened covered with them; my hair was full of them. 
One by one they cut into the flesh, and the more they are disturbed, 
the more vicious are their bites; they become quite insolent. I went 
outside the hut, but there they swarmed everywhere; they covered 
the legs, biting furiously; it is only when they are tired that they 
leave off." 

They reached Lake Tanganyika the 1st of April, viewing it from 
the summit of the ridge two thousand feet above its level, which forms 
the southern boundary of its cup-like bed. The village at this point, 
Pambete, is surrounded with palm-oil-trees, tall and graceful as those 
found upon the west coast. 

But the leader of the expedition was too weak and ill to make jour-, 
neys about the lake. At one time, he was unconscious for several hours 
from the effects of fever; and finally his faithful servants hung a 
blanket before the entrance to his hut, that the curious natives might 
not be witnesses of his weakness. Nor could he learn anything by in- 
quiry of the people. Either they were wholly ignorant, or they mis- 
trusted him so much that they would give no information. 

They remained at this village a month, before the leader was able 
to travel; and then he was far from being well. Toward the end of 
May, they arrived at Chisaka, Chitimba's village, and here they were 
detained for more than three months, owing to trouble between a party 
of Arab traders and a native chief, Nsama. Dr. Livingstone frankly 
says he heard but one side of the story, that of the Arabs, and hence 
cannot pretend to state the case truly; but the fact that the native 
chiefs generally condemned Nsama seemed to indicate that he was in 



MS LIVINGSTONE'S LAST EXPEDITION. 

the wrong. About the middle of September, however, the Arabs having 
lost about fifty men and Nsama probably twice as many, negotiations 
for a peace were entered upon; and as was often the case among 
civilized nations in other days, this peace was to be cemented with a 
marriage, Nsama promising to give one of his daughters to Hamees, 
one of the Arabs, as a wife. She came riding pick-aback on a man's 




THE KING ADDBESSINQ HIS SUBJECTS. 



shoulders into the village where her future lord was for the time, 
"a nice, modest, good-looking young woman, her hair rubbed all over 
with nkola, a red pigment m,ade from the cam-wood, and much used as 
an ornament. She was accompanied by about a dozen young and old 
female attendants, each carrying a small basket with some provisions, 
as cassava, ground-nuts, etc. The Arabs were all dressed in their 
finery, and the slaves, in fantastic dresses, flourished swords, fired 
guns, and yelled. When she was brought to Hamees' hut she descended, 



LIVINGSTONE'S LAST EXPEDITION. 239 

aad with her maids went into the hut. She and her attendants all had 
sm,ail, neat features. I had been sitting with Hamees, and now rose up 
and went away. As I passed him, he spoke thus to himself: 'Hamees 
Wadim Tagh! see to what you have brought yourself?' " 

Nsama had been a great conqueror in his time, and with bows and 
arrows as the arms of his enemies, he was invincible; but the Arabs 
had of course been provided with fire-arm,s, and it was to the su- 
premacy of weapons, not of generalship, that he had been obliged to 
yield so far as to consent to a peace. Dr. Livingstone visited his vil- 
lage, Itawa, and found the people particularly handsome. Nsama was 
very gracious, and promised guides and porters; but showed so much 
distrust that the traveler finally decided to go on without the prof- 
fered assistance. 

Keeping to the north of Nsama 's country after this brief visit, the 
party moved westward until it reached the north end of Moero. This 
was Nov. 8; it was the rainy season again, and the explorer was ob- 
Uged to be very careful where he traveled, lest he again fall a victim 
to that fever against which he was now defenseless. 

Their next visit of note was to a chief of Lunda, called the Casembe. 
This word, which means simply a general, has been applied as a proper 
name both to the chief and to the village where he lives. The Portu- 
guese had used it in the latter sense; and their various observations 
as to the location of the village Casembe did not agree very closely, for 
the simple reason that each Casembe, as he came into office, removed 
the village from its previous site to one which pleased him better. 
The town at the time of Livingstone's visit was situated on the east 
bank of the lakelet Mofwe, and one mile from its northern end. The 
plain extending from the Lunde to the town of Casembe is level, and 
studded pretty thickly with red-ant hills, from fifteen to twenty feet 
high. Casembe had made a broad path from his town to the Lunde, 
a distance of about a mile and a half. The town consisted of a space 
a mile square, dotted over with cassava plantations, in the midst of 
which were the huts. The court or compound of Casembe was sur- 
rounded by a hedge of high reeds, ornamented with about sixty human 
skulls. Before the gigantic hut within this enclosure, which was Ca- 



240 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST EXPEDITION. 

sembe's abode, the chief sat on a square seat placed on lion and leopard 
skins ; he was dressed in a coarse blue and white print edged with red 
baize, arranged in large folds "so as to look like a crinoline put on 
wrong side foremost." His arms, legs, and head were covered with 
sleeves, leggings, and cap made of various colored beads arranged in 
patterns ; a crown of yellow feathers surmounted his cap, and he con- 
sidered himself a model of royal magnificence. 

"While at this village, Dr. Livingstone was provided with food on a 
liberal scale; and his presents seemed to be fully appreciated. His 
first gift to the chief consisted of eight yards of orange-colored serge, 
a large striped table-cloth, another large cloth, ajid a large richly 
gilded comb for the hair, such as ladies wore about 1820. As Lunda 
fashions in coiffure are various, this could not fail of being a wel- 
come gift. 

Casembe showed himself very friendly, although the traveler, re- 
membering the skulls, and noting that m,any of his attendants had 
their ears cropped or their hands lopped off in token of their master's 
displeasure, could not trust him entirely. Although the Portuguese 
had visited this country, it is to be noted that Casembe thought there 
were only two sovereigns in the world. Queen Victoria and the sultan 
of Zanzibar. 

As they came down the watershed toward Tanganyika, they entered 
an area of the earth's surface still disturbed by internal igneous action. 
A hot fountain in the country of Nsama, they found, was often used to 
boil cassava and maize. Earthquakes are no rarity in this section of 
the country, and one was experienced which shook their hut, and set 
the fowls to cackling, in the middle of the night. The most remark- 
able effect of this earthquake was, that it changed the rates of the 
chronometers, and stopped one entirely. 

Dr. Livingstone was so affected by the climate that he was unable 
to leave Casembe 's town until late in June, 1868, although he had 
arrived there in the previous autumn. His desire was to explore Lake 
Bangweolo, but the shores of it were so marshy, and the intervening 
country so overflowed during the wet season that it was highly im- 
prudent for him to attempt it. 



LIVINGSTONE'S LAST EXPEDITION. 



241 




•v^^ 



'TSiiku 



THTi CONGO KING, 



DISCOVERY OF LAKE BANGWEOLO. 



It was on the 18th of July, 1868, that Dr. Livingstone discovered 
this lake, one of the largest in central Africa. It is extraordinary to 
note the total absence of all pride and enthusiasm as, ahnost parenthet- 
ically, he records the fact in these few brief words : 



16 



242 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST EXPEDITION. 

"Reached the chief village of Mapuni, near the north bank of Bang- 
weolo. On the 18th I walked a little way out, and saw the shores of 
the lake for the first time, thankful that I had come safely hither." 

His intention to explore the lake was not carried out for a week, 
a strong and unfavorable wind detaining him on shore. But his re- 
turn was much delayed by the condition of the country. We have al- 
ready referred to that contest between Nsama and the Arab traders, 
which was apparently settled by the marriage of Hamees to Nsama 's 
daughter. But this alliance did not accomplish this result; for the 
lady, hearing what seemed to her an indication that her father was to 
be attacked by her husband's people, departed quietly from her new 
home, and was seen no more. The other native chiefs, beginning to 
be alarmed at the encroachments of the Arabs, joined forces and at- 
tempted to storm the stockade of one of their leaders. They suffered 
a severe defeat in this attempt ; and the whole country was thrown into 
turmoil and confusion. For several months travel or exploration was 
impossible ; and several times the life of the stranger was in imminent 
danger. During this period, he occupied his tim,e in writing out an ex- 
ceedingly valuable treatise on^the subject of the periodical floods which 
drain the enormous cistern-lakes of Central Africa. It would mani- 
festly be out of place to transfer that treatise to these images ; and the 
reader who would study the subject is referred to the work of which 
the present chapter is substantially an abridgment— "The Last Jour- 
nals" of David Livingstone in Central Africa. 

At last, a cruel outrage perpetrated by one of the Arabs on the 
natives of Kizinga so exasperated the latter that they declared war; 
and although badly defeated in the first instance soon compelled the 
slave-traders to leave the country. With a party of these, led by Mo- 
hammed Bagharib, Livingstone started to Ujiji on December 11. The 
march to the nearest point on Lake Tanganyika occupied just two 
months, but was entirely uneventful, except that just before reaching 
the lake, Livingstone had an attack of pneumonia, accompanied by 
spitting of blood and distressing weakness. He had to be carried for 
sixteen days, during part of which time he was insensible, and lost 
count of the days of the week and the month. And this was the man 



LIVINGSTONE'S LAST EXPEDITION. 243 

who at the start, had been able to outstrip all his companions in walk- 
ing, and was often obliged to loiter on the way because the caravan 
could not keep up with his swift, steady pace. 

He had arranged for a quantity of goods to be sent from Zanzibar 
to Ujiji by one of the caravans trading along this route ; and fully ex- 
pected to find at this point, not only cloth and beads for propitiating 
the natives along his way, but a supply of the sorely needed medicines. 
Unfortunately, the goods had been intrusted to a scoundrel, who had 
helped himself most liberally to them. Sixty-two out of the eighty pieces 
of cloth had been stolen, and most of his best beads. Medicines, wine, 
and cheese had been left at Unyanyembe, thirteen days' journey east 
of Ujiji. Nor was the distance the only difficulty; the way was blocked 
by a Mazitu war, so that he must wait at Ujiji until the governor of 
Unyanyembe should have an opportunity of forwarding the goods in 
safety. 

At Ujiji, however, he found a supply of flannel, which was very 
beneficial worn next to the skin, in his jsresent condition. He also re- 
ceived a present of Assam tea from Calcutta, and his own supply of 
coffee and a little sugar had not been stolen. 

The next month was occupied in writing letters home; and on the 
27th of April he records that he had finished forty-two. He had great 
difficulty in persuading any one to undertake to deliver these at Zan- 
zibar; the ijrobability is, that even those who were not directly impli- 
cated in the tlieft of his goods were afraid that they would be accused 
of it; at last, however, he found messengers who promised to take 
them; and to their charge the documents were confided. That is the 
end of the history of the letters then written; for they never reached 
their destination. 

EXPLORING THE RIVER LUALABA. 

July 12, he set out to explore the Manyuema country, hitherto a 
country wholly unknown. Securing canoes, he skirted the edge of the 
lake for a short distance, then crossed it, and struck along tbe coast on 
foot. They passed through Uguha, or the country of the Waguha, and 
came to the territory occupied by the Manyuema. 



244 



LIVINGSTONE'S LAST EXPEDITION. 



Late in October, 1869, being thoroughly rested, he determined to 
cross the country to the Lualaba, and buy a canoe for its exploration. 
It is scarcely necessary to say that at the period of which we write, the 
course of this river was shrouded in mystery. Their route was west and 
south-west, through a country of beauty so great that he seems never 
tired of praising it. But they found the people far from friendly. 




COOKIKG THE LOCUSTS. 



A slave-trader had been through there, and had treated the people 
with great severity; in spite of the difference of color, they persisted 
in looking upon Dr. Livingstone as akin to the Arab. Owing to this 
state of feeling, they found it impossible to buy a canoe in which to 
cross the Luamo, the banks of which they reached November 17. 
Finally the party returned to Bambarre. 

A second trip was begun the day after Christmas, the route being 
slightly altered, so that they struck the Luamo at a higher point than 



LIVINGSTONE'S LAST EXPEDITION. 245 

before. Their course frora Bambarre for a number of days was nearly 
due north. They found the people civil, as a rule, but like noisy chil- 
dren, all talking and gazing when they entered a village. But weak- 
ness and sickness delayed them, and it was a month and more before 
they reached the Lualaba. 

The incidents of the nest few months need not be recorded in de- 
tail. He made but little progress, and even after reaching the banks 
of the Lualaba he turned aside, to visit Arab traders who had come for 
ivory, and with whom he was good friends. Under the date of June 
26, we have this entry: 

"Now my people failed me; so, with only three attendants, Susi, 
Chuma and Gardner, I started off to the north-west for the Lualaba." 

SUFFERS FROM SORE FEET. 

But this was another false start. For the first time in his life his 
feet failed him ; and learning that the Lualaba took a great bend to the 
west-south-west, he gave up the quest, and limped back to Bambarre 
with his three faithful servants. Fairly baffled by the difficulties in 
his way, and sorely troubled by the demoralized state of his men, who 
had been seduced by the Arabs to a more lucrative employment, the 
explorer turned back from this point. He was laid up for some time 
with the sores on his feet, which became irritable eating ulcers, so 
painful that sometimes he could not sleep. 

While he was thus rendered helpless, the few men that had not 
deserted him occupied much of their time in hunting. The chief game 
about this point was the soke, a species of the chimpanzee which has 
sometimes been identified with the gorilla; but no white scientist has 
ever seen the soko, and those Africans who came to England after 
the death of Dr. Livingstone failed to recognize the gorilla, stuffed, 
which is in the British Museum, as a soko. Nor do the descriptions 
of soko-hunts lead us to believe that they are the same as that power- 
ful and ferocious animal of Western Equatorial Africa, which Du 
Chaillu has described. The soko is represented by some to be ex- 
tremely knowing, successfully stalking men and women while at their 
work, kidnapping children and running up trees with them; he seems 



246 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST EXPEDITION. 

to be amused by the sight of the young natives in his arms, but comes 
down when tempted by a bunch of bananas, and as he lifts that, drops 
the child. One man was cutting honey from a tree, when a soko sud- 
denly appeared and caught him, and then let him go. Another man 
was hunting, and missed in his aim when he attempted to stab a soko ; 
it seized the spear and broke it, then grappled with the man, who called 
for help to his companions; it bit off the ends of his fingers and es- 
caped unharmed. Another still was caught by a soko while hoeing; 
he roared out, but the soko giggled and grinned, and left him as if it 
had attacked him in play. A child caught up by a soko is often abused 
by being pinched and scratched and let fall. 

His friend Mohammed, the chief of the ivory traders, offered to go 
with him to see the Lualaba; the explorer explained that it would not 
be sufficient for him to see it, he must descend the stream and see 
whither it flowed. Mohammed then offered to provide him with men; 
and this offer was accepted, the equivalent of two hundred and seventy 
pounds sterling being paid as amends for the injury to his ivory trade 
which the loss of these men would occasion. 

Eighty days had passed since Dr. Livingstone first knew that his 
feet had failed him, before he was able to use them again. He was, by 
the journey which he was now beginning, entering upon the solution of 
a vexed geographical problem. It was a vexed problem, because the 
assumption of a point as true had caused errors which could not be 
corrected as long as this error obtained. This mistake was in identify- 
ing the Chambeze with the Zambesi. The map of Africa which Dr. 
Livingstone carried with him upon this expedition contained this 
error; the map-maker showing the river as running up-stream, and be- 
tween three and four thousand feet up-hill, in order to reach the Zam- 
besi which was known through Livingstone's former expedition, aa 
well as by the settlements of the Portuguese. 

Upon this trip, the explorer departed from the course which he 
had previously marked out for himself, to give no European name to 
any natural feature; this rule had been broken but once before, when 
he gave to the great cataract of the Zambesi the name of Victoria Falls ; 
he now gave English names to the lakes which are the head-waters 



LIVINGSTONE'S LAST EXPEDITION. 247 

of the Congo— Palmerston Fountain, Frere Fountain, and Lake Lin- 
coln, thus perpetuating, in the interior of Africa, the names of three 
men who had been, in his own day, most prominent in their efforts to 
suppress slavery. 

But his effort to descend the Lualaba was not without hindrance. 
Under date of December 10, 1870, he says : 

"I am sorely let and hindered in this Manyeema. Rain every day, 
and often at night. * * * This is the sorest delay I ever had." 

BROKEN HEARTS. 

While detained thus at Bambarre, Dr. Livingstone became ac- 
quainted with a curious disease— the strangest disease which he had 
seen in that country, he declared. Freemen who were taken as slaves 
died without any assignable cause, the only pain which they suffered 
being in the region of the heart. He regarded their death as due to 
that much scoffed-at trouble, a broken heart. 

Late in December, the traveler's goat, on which he depended for 
milk, was killed by a leopard. A gun set for the animal went off at ten 
o'clock at night. The next morning, some of the attendants of the 
explorer set off on a hunt, and tracked him to his lair. The ball had 
broken both hind-legs and -one fore-leg; yet he sprang viciously upon 
the foremost of the hunters, and bit him badly. Speared by the com- 
rades of the man attacked, he proved to be a splendid specimen of his 
kind, being six feet eight inches from, tip of nose to end of tail. 

They left Bambarre February 16, but progressed very slowly. 
Their way lay across a great bend of the Lualaba, and they traveled on 
foot. After a journey lasting about six weeks, they came once more 
to the bank of the Lualaba, a mighty stream, at least three thousand 
yards broad, and so deep that the people living near by declared it 
could never, at any time of the year, be forded. The current, he found 
to be about two miles an hour. 

But having reached the banks of this mighty river, the traveler 
found that he could go no farther, for the present at least; the sus- 
picions of the natives prevented him from obtaining canoes either for 
descending or for crossing it. Here he remained from March 31 until 



248 



LIVINGSTONE'S LAST EXPEDITION. 



July 20, hoping day by day to be able to obtain canoes ; getting bits of 
uncertain information now and then from the people about the rivers 
of the surrounding country, and striving to teach those with whom he 
came in contact. Finally, there was a terrible fight at this point, 
which was a market-place for the whole surrounding country. A 
quarrel between the natives and a slave of the ivory-traders who had 
come hither was taken up by all interested, and between three and four 
hundred persons killed. Livingstone, powerless to prevent the slaugh- 




GREAT HONEY GUIDE. 



ter, could only look on at the affrighted people struggling in the river 
into which they had plunged for safety, and, when the fight was over, 
intercede for those who had fled to him for safety. So far had the 
people been carried by their anger, that after it was all over, no one 
could give a connected account of the reasons for the fight. They had 
seen their friends fighting, and had joined in. 

On July 20, he started back to Ujiji, but the journey back was 
different from anything that this old traveler had yet experienced. 
The ivory-traders had passed through this country, and maltreated the 



LIVINGSTONE'S LAST EXPEDITION. 249 

natives to such an extent that the whole country was aroused ; and Dr. 
Livingstone being constantly taken for an Arab, was in perpetual dan- 
ger of his life. Three times in one day (August 8) was he delivered 
from impending death, 

A DANGEROUS PATH. 

In passing along the narrow path, with a dense wall of vegetation 
touching either hand, the party came to a point where an ambush had 
been placed, and trees cut down to obstruct their passage while the as- 
sailants speared them; but for some reason it had been abandoned. 
Nothing could be detected; but by stooping down toward the earth and 
looking up toward the sun, a dark shade could sometimes be seen; this 
was an infuriated savage, and a slight rustle in the dense vegetation 
meant a spear. A large spear from Livingstone's right lunged past, 
and, almost grazing his back, stuck firmly in the soil. The two men 
from whom it came appeared in an opening in the forest only ten yards 
off, and bolted, one looking back over his shoulder as he ran. As they 
are expert with the spear, the traveler could only account for its miss- 
ing by supposing that the man had been too sure of his aim, and by at- 
tributing his safety to the protecting care of his Father. 

Shortly after this, another spear was hurled at him, missing him by 
about a foot in front. Guns were fired into the thick forest, but with no 
effect, for nothing could be seen ; but they heard the savages jeering and 
denouncing them close by. Two of Livingstone's men were killed by 
them. 

The third danger was not from concealed speaimen. Coming to a 
part of the forest cleared for cultivation, the explorer noticed a giant 
tree, made to appear still taller by growing out of an ant-hill twenty 
feet high ; it had fire applied near its roots. 

Dr. Livingstone heard a crack, which told that the fire had done its 
work in felling the tree ; but he felt no alarm until he saw the mass of 
wood sway and then descend directly toward him. He ran a few paces 
back, and down it came to the ground within a yard of where he paused ; 
breaking into several lengths, it covered him with a cloud of dust. Had 



250 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST EXPEDITION. 

the branches not been rotted off previously, he could scarcely have 
escaped. 

His attendants, who had been scattered in all directions, regarded 
this as a good omen, taken in connection with his other escapes that 
day, and came running toward him, crying out : 

"Peace! Peace ! You will finish all your work in spite of these peo- 
ple, and in spite of everything!" 

Beaching Ujiji October 23, he found that all his goods had been sold 
by an Arab, Shereef, to his friends, at nominal prices. In spite of the 
protests of other traders, more than three thousand yards of calico and 
seven hundred pounds of beads had been thus sacrificed. Shereef had 
the assurance, however, even after this was fully made known to Dr. 
Livingstone, to come to shake hands with him ; and when the long-suf- 
fering traveler rebelled against such behavior at last, and refused to do 
so, the Arab assumed an air of displeasure, as if he had been badly 
treated. He afterward came twice a day with his salutation of ' ' Balghere 
(good luck) !" until Livingstone told him that if he were an Arab, his 
( Shereef 's) hand and both ears would be cut off for thieving; and the 
traveler wanted no salutations from him. 

DESTITUTE. 

He was now utterly destitute, and with no prospect of further sup- 
plies for months to come ; for letters must be dispatched to the coast be- 
fore such would be sent to him ; and how to pay the bearers of such let- 
ters, except m promises, he could not tell. He had made up his mind, if 
he could not get people at Ujiji, to wait until men should come from the 
coast; but to wait in beggary, was what he had never contemplated; and 
he "now felt miserable." 

The few simple words are significant enough, if we consider the 
patience of the man. Livingstone's journals are unlike those of every 
other African traveler in the brevity and lack of enthusiasm with which 
the events are chronicled; the cold and undemonstrative nature of the 
Scotchman shows itself most plainly in this way; and especially in re- 
spect to his own sufferings. But in this ease, we must remember that 
it is something more than natural reluctance to enlarge upon his feel- 



LIVINGSTONE'S LAST EXPEDITION. 251 

ings ; it is even more than the manly reticence regarding personal phys- 
ical pain, which is shown by the great majority of the explorers; it is 
the patience of the Christian, who sees in all the suffering and trouble 
which come upon him, the trial which is to fit him for his Master's pur- 
pose. 

Just as his spirits had reached their lowest ebb, the dawn began to 
break; an Arab merchant, who said that he him,self had no goods, of- 
fered to sell some ivory, and give the goods so obtained to the stranger. 
This was encouraging; but Livingstone felt that he was not yet at the 
point of accepting such an offer. 

"Not yet, but by and by," he said to the Arab. 

He had still a very few goods for barter remaining, goods which had 
been left in the care of another Arab than the one who had stolen his 
new stock, which he had deposited before going to Manyuema, in case 
of retui'ning in extreme need. These he was now resolved to use, to 
get to the coast a letter, if possible. He had been full two years without 
any tidings from Europe whatever ; he had sent dispatches during that 
time, but as we have seen, they had not reached the coast. 

Such were the circumstances surrounding this great explorer when 
his servants brought him word that an Englishman was approaching 
the town. Susi came running to his master at the top of his speed, and 
in great excitement. He breathlessly gasped out: 

"An Englishman! I see him!" 

In an instant he was off. Dr. Livingstone followed him to the door, 
and saw the caravan approaching the town. Bales of goods, a tin bath, 
huge kettles, cooking-pots, tents, and all the paraphernalia of a well- 
equipped traveler through a country where few or no conveniences were 
to be expected, struck him with a sense of the difference between him- 
self and the approaching stranger. 

"This m.ust be a luxurious traveler," he told himself, "and not one 
at his wit's end like me." 

THE STAES AND STRIPES. 

The first glance at the caravan had showed him that Susi had been 
mistaken in one particular— this was not an Englishman, for at the 



252 



LIVINGSTONE'S LAST EXPEDITION. 



head of the caravan floated the flag of England's eldest daughter, the 
United States. The stranger was Henry M. Stanley. 

Of the meeting, we need not here give details. Overwhelmed as 
Livingstone was by surprise at the coming of this man, sent by a 




MEETING BETWEEN STANLEY AND LIVINGSTONE. 



stranger through the heart of Africa especially to find him if alive, and 
to bring back his bones if he were dead, we could hardly expect that his 
narrative of the meeting would be clear and succinct ; he was too bewild- 
ered, probably, in spite of his Scotch coolness of head, to remember 
just what took place. Little by little the whole wonderful story came 



LIVINGSTONE'S LAST EXPEDITION. 253 

home to him, and he realized that he was once again in communication 
with the outer world. And with this realization, came renewed vigor; 
he was no longer the hroken-down old man, spiritless, bitterly disap- 
pointed at the failure to reach the points which he had endeavored to 
attain, heart-sick at the duplicity which had left him well-nigh without 
resources in the heart of this great continent ; a new life seemed to fill 
his veins, and emotions that had lain dormant in Manyuema revived 
at the tidings that he had to tell. But while struggling to express 
the flood of feeling which so nearly overwhelmed him, these are the 
words he uses: 

"I really do feel extremely grateful, and at the same time I am a lit- 
tle ashamed at not bding more worthy of the generosity." 

Mr. Stanley brought news that Sir Eoderick Murchison most earn- 
estly desired that Lake Tanganyika should be fully explored, and ac- 
cordingly, after a little more than two weeks spent at Ujiji, the whole 
party set out for the north of the lake. The start was made November 
16, but a cruise to the head of the lake failed to reveal any passage into 
the Nyanza, or any stream flowing out of Tanganyika ; the natives ap- 
peared to know nothing of any large lake to the north, and they returned 
to Ujiji a month after they had left it. 

Directly after their return, they made ready for a journey towards 
the east to secure Dr. Livingstone's goods, the English government 
having granted one thousand pounds for supplies for the explorer, in 
addition to the assistance which Mr. Bennett had commissioned Stan- 
ley to bring. Owing to the illness of the younger traveler, however, they 
did not leave Ujiji until two days after Christmas. The same causa 
which had detained them at Ujiji delayed their journey somewhat after 
they had started ; and during one stage, Mr. Stanley had to be carried 
on a cot. After a march of fifty-four days, they reached Unyanyembe, 
over three hundred miles away, 

Mr. Stanley was extremely anxious to have Dr. Livingstone return 
to England with him, to recruit his strength ; but the old explorer was 
by no means ready to do so. His own judgment told him : 

"All your friends will wish you to make a complete work of the ex- 
ploration of the sources of the Nile before you retire." 



254 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST EXPEDITION. 

His daughter Agnes had written ; 

' ' Much as I wish you to come home, I would rather that you finished 
your work to your own satisfaction than return merely to gratify me." 

In spite of the persuasions of his newly found friend, then, he re- 
solved to remain until this work should be accomplished. Probably, in 
the enthusiasm which had been re-awakened in his breast, and the re- 
turn of a measure of good health, he did not realize what inroads upon 
his constitution had been made by the fever from which he had suffered 
so much after the theft of his medicines. Feeling so much better, he 
fancied himself a strong man again. 

They remained at Unyanymebe until the lith of March, Dr. Living- 
stone preparing dispatches and letters for the outer world to which his 
companion was so shortly to return. On the date mentioned, they sep- 
arated; communication between them was kept up for some time; and 
it was arranged that Mr. Stanley was to procure men for Dr. Living- 
stone in Zanzibar, and send them forward to Unyanyembe, where he 
was to await them. The time thus spent in waiting was utilized by com- 
pleting many calculations which lack of time had caused him to leave 
unfinished, and by planning his work for the future. Briefly stated, it 
was his intention to allow the remainder of the year 1872 (at that time, 
five months,) for the journey to his new field of exploration; devote 
the whole of 1873 to his work, and return in 1874 to home and a well- 
eai*ned repose. 

It was the middle of August before the caravan of porters arrived 
at Unyanyembe. They numbered fifty-seven. Besides these new men, 
of whom John and Jacob Wain-wright are to be remembered. Dr. Liv- 
ingstone had five old servants with him— Susi, Chuma and Amoda, 
who had been employed by him during the Zambesi expedition, and 
Mabruki and Gardner, two of the Nassick boys who had left Zanzibar 
with his caravan at the beginning of the present journey. 

Leaving a sufiicient quantity of goods with Sultan bin Ali to secure 
their return journey from Unyanyembe to the coast, the caravan set 
out August 23. A week later, the two Nassicks had, "from sheer lazi- 
ness," allowed all the cows to stray; they were found a long way off. 
but one was missing, and was never recovered. One cow, their best 



LIVINGSTONE'S LAST EXPEDITION. 255 

milker, had been lost three days after starting. Two of the pagazi, 
engaged at a village on their road, deserted, taking with them a quan- 
tity of calico belonging to the men. Thus the story goes on. 

The latter half of September, they were much delayed by sickness, 
both of the leader and of his followers. They came in sight of Tangan- 
yika October 8, and slowly approached the lake from which so short a 
distance seemed to divide them. Their course was nearly due south 
to Fipa, as that was the town to which their steps were now directed; 
they had been many times assured in Unyanyembe that the route to 
this point was much shorter and less difficult than that to Ujiji. 

From this point they skirted the shores of the lake ; and early in No- 
vember came within sight of the Luazi. For some time past, Living- 
etone had been tormented by doubts about the Lualaba ; he was in search 
of the ultimate sources of the Nile, not considering that the discovery 
of the two Nyanzas had settled this vexed question ; what if, after all, 
the Lualaba should prove to be a tributary of the Congo? The ques- 
tion occurs more than once in his journal, even before the meeting with 
Stanley, showing that the idea was gaining hold upon his mind. Still, 
he pressed on, resolved to find out for himself what was the destina- 
tion of this great river. 

The journey now turned toward the southwest, for he wished to visil 
Lake Bangweolo again, and ascertain what connection it might have 
with a great river-system. The journey was without special incident; 
there was the same old story of natives angered by the outrageous treat- 
ment of Arab traders, and consequently jealous of all strangers ; of ef- 
forts to get food, sometimes unavailing because of this jealousy ; of sick- 
ness of the men; and finally, here and there we find the simple word 
"ill" among the entries in his journal, coupled sometimes with a state- 
ment of the length of time during which his illness had continued. Oc- 
casionally, the feeble writing testifies more plainly than words that his 
strength was failing. 

February 13, they arrived within sight of Lake Bangweolo ; the plain 
surrounding the lake was under water, and it was necessary to obtain 
canoes to make their way along the shore of the enlarged lake. Halt- 
ing at the village of a chief named Matipa, they entered into negotia- 



256 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST EXPEDITION. 

tions for these vessels. Matipa showed himself at first very friendly, 
but on one pretext or another, put off the arrival of the canoes in a suf- 
ficient number to serve their purpose. At last, they found that he was 
deliberately acting treacherously; Dr. Livingstone then took posses- 
sion of Matipa 's own hut, fired his pistol through the roof, and left ten 
men to guard the village. Matipa fled to another village, while his peo- 
ple sent off and brought a number of canoes, so that Livingstone's men 
were enabled to embark at once. Later intercourse showed that Matipa 
was thoroughly frightened by the warlike demonstration, and became 
once more very friendly, 

HAEDSHIPS. 

An entry under date of March 24 will give some idea of the hard- 
ships endured at this time, when the end was so rajoidly approaching: 

""\Te i^unted six hours to a little islet without a tree, and no sooner 
did we land than a pitiless, pelting rain came on. We turned up a canoe 
to get shelter. We shall reach the Chambeze to-morrow. The wind tore 
the tent out of our hands, and damaged it, too ; the loads are all soaked, 
and with the cold, it is bitterly uncomfortable. A man put my bed into 
the bilge, and never said 'Bale out,' so I was safe for a wet night, but 
it turned out better than I expected. No grass, but we made a bed of 
the loads, and a blanket fortunately put into a bag." 

It is interesting, in this portion of his journal, to note what care Susi 
and Chuma took of their master. He does not seem to realize it him- 
self, yet from his own record we see that, day by day, their watchful- 
ness over him was increasing, as they saw his strength diminishing. It 
was on this journey that, for the first time, he was unable to wade thg 
streams which they crossed on foot; and all the way to Bangweolo, 
wherever they came to a sponge or a river, Chuma carried his master 
on his strong and willing shoulders, even though the main stream came 
up to Susi's mouth as they waded along. 

The voyage over this overflowed land was far from easy sailing On 
the seventh of April, he records that they were lost for five hours on the 
grassy prairies, which were covered with from three to five feet of 
vrater. The next morning they obtained guides from a village within 



LIVINGSTONE'S LAST EXPEDITION. 257 

hearing, who caused them to take their large canoe along a course 
where the water was sometimes but fifteen inches deep ; and although 
the men put all their strength to her, she stopped at every haul with a 
jerk, as if in a bank of adhesive plaster. 

But exertion and exposure had further weakened him; and a few 
days later we find the entry that he was so weak he could hardly walk, 
but tottered along nearly two hours, and then lay down quite done 
over. At this resting-ijlace, he made coffee— the last of his stock— and 
tried to go on again; but in an hour's time was compelled to give it up. 
Even then, he was very unwilling to be carried, but, "on being pressed," 
allowed the men to help him on by relays to Chinama, a highly culti- 
vated region. 

From this point forward we carry the story forward by means of 
the narration of his two faithful servants. April 21, he tried 
to ride the donkey, but was so weak that he fell to the ground utterly 
exhausted and faint. Chuma carried him back to the village which 
they had just left, and placed him in his hut. The next day, they con- 
trived a sort of litter, known to the natives at a kitanda, a framework 
covered with grass, and having a blanket laid upon it. On this he was 
placed, while Chuma walked by his side, to steady the sick man when 
the bearers stopped; for he was so weak that he could not otherwise 
have kept from falling off. 

HIS LAST SICKNESS AND DEATH. 

They arrived at the village of Kalunganjova, on the banks of the 
Molilamo, April 27. From this point, they sent out to buy food. The 
effort was unsuccessful, for the Mazitu had made raids through that 
country, and taken everything. The chief, nevertheless, made them a 
substantial present of a kid and three baskets of ground-nuts; and 
those who had food were quite willing to sell it for beads. The chief 
visited Dr. Livingstone on the morning of the 29th, and assured him 
that he would personally accompany the caravan to the crossing-place 
of the river, in order to be sure that canoes were furnished as he 
wished them to be. 

But when they were ready to set out. Dr. Livingstone was too weak 

17 



258 



LIVINGSTONE'S LAST EXPEDITION. 



to walk from his bed in the hut to the kitanda at the door. It was there- 
fore necessary, because the door was so narrow, to break down one of 
the frail walls of the hut; through the breach thus made, the bearers 
brought the litter close to the sick man's bed, and he was carefully- 
lifted upon it. 

/ 




LIVINGSTONE S LAST JOUENEY, 



With almost incredible gentleness, when we remember that only 
love had taught them how to deal with the sick, these men, who had un- 
til the last few years been rude and untaught savages, lifted him from 
the kitanda into the canoe, and again into the litter when they had 
crossed the river; for the canoe was not wide enough to admit the 
kitanda with the sick man upon it. Susi hurried on ahead of the cara- 
van, that a hut might be built at Chitambo's village, which was their 
present destination, by the time that his master arrived. 

The natives stood in silent wonder as he was helped from his litter 
into the hut, for his praises had reached them long ago. This was the 
"good man," as he was emphatically called by the tribes that knew 



LIVINGSTONE'S LAST EXPEDITION. 259 

him best; and tliey watched him till he was lost to their view inside 
the hut. 

The next day, the chief paid a visit of ceremony to his guest; but 
Dr. Livingstone was obliged, after an effort to talk to him, to send him 
away, telling him to come again the next day, when he hoped to have 
more strength. The day wore on, and night came; some of the men 
took to their huts; it was the duty of others to keep watch. The boy 
who was appointed to sleep just within his master's hut, summoned Susi 
about eleven o'clock; Livingstone asked a few questions, tirst about 
noises that he heard outside, and then about distances, the latter show- 
ing that his mind was wandering. An hour later, the man was again 
summoned, and attended to his master's wants, getting the medicine 
which was required. 

"All right; you can go out now," said the white man. 

The hours passed on; it was not yet dawn when the boy came to 
Susi again, this time in fright : 

"Come to Bwana; I am afraid; I don't know if he is alive." 

Susi called his immediate companions, and six men went to the doc- 
tor's hut. A candle, stuck by its own wax to a box, was burning at the 
head of the rude bed; the light showed their master's form, kneeling 
by the side of the bed, his head buried in his hands upon the pillow; 
He gave no sign of hearing them ; one of them gently touched his cheek; 
it was quite cold; at some time between midnight and dawn, of the 
1st of May, 1873, David Livingstone had knelt in prayer, and died upon 
his knees. 

Livingstone's remains were taken back to England and interred in 
Westminster Abbey. 

Just one year before the day that he died he had finished a letter to 
the New York Herald, trying to enlist American zeal to stop the east- 
coast slave-trade. His concluding words were: "All I can add, in 
very loneliness, is, may Heaven's rich blessing come down on every 
one, American, English or Turk, who will help to heal the open sore of 
the world." Nothing could better represent the man, and these words 
consequently were inscribed on the tablet at his grave in Westminster. 



260 



LIVINGSTONE'S LAST EXPEDITION. 




CHAPTER XVIII. 
STANLEY'S SEARCH FOR LIVINGSTONE. 

Birth and Youth of Stanley — To America — In the Confederate Army — In the U. S. Navy — 
Adventures in Turkey — In Abyssinia — In Spain — Find Livingstone — OS to Zanzibar — 
Shooting Hippopotami — News of Livingstone — An Insolent Fellow — Attempt to Assassin- 
ate Stanley — Fever — War — Mirambo and His Misdeeds. 

WHILE Livingstone for years was lost in the wilds of Africa 
several unsuccessful attempts were made to locate him. Only 
one man succeeded in accomplishing what so many had at- 
tempted, viz., Henry M. Stanley, and the stoiy of his adventurous jour- 
ney sounds like a tale from the Arabian Nights. 

In the year 18-40, there was born, near the town of Denbigh, in Wales, 
a boy, who was named after his father and grandfather, John EoUand, 
or Rowlands, as the name is sometimes anglicized. His father died 
when he was but two years old; his mother married again, not many 
years afterward. He was for several years a pupil at the poor-house 
of St. Asaph, where he procured the best education that that institu- 
tion of learning could afford. Leaving this, he was employed for a 
year as a teacher at Mold, in Flintshire ; but finding this quiet life very 
little to his taste, he made his way to Liverpool, and there shipped 
as cabin-boy in a vessel bound for New Orleans. There, while look- 
ing for employment, he came into contact with a wealthy, childless 
merchant named Stanley. This gentleman liked the boy so well that he 
employed him about various parts of his extensive business, promot- 
ing him rapidly ; and finally adopted him as his own son, promising to 
provide liberally for him. 

But the youth had a restless spirit, and could not be prevailed upon 
to settle down and enjoy the good things of this life unless a great deal 
of the spice of variety could be added to them. He wandered away into 
tlie wildest parts of Arkansas; thence he made his way overland to 

261 



262 STANLEY'S SEARCH FOR LIVINGSTONE. 

California, making friends with many of the Indians on the way, and 
sitting gravely by their council fires when it so pleased him to do. At 
last, he returned to New Orleans. His adopted father had given him 
up as dead, and welcomed him as one who had come back from beyond 
the grave. 

The trial of thus losing his adopted son, as he thought that he had, 
had been a severe one to Mr. Stanley ; but he was not destined to suf- 
fer again from the young man's roving disposition. Shortly after his 
return, the elder Stanley (for of course his adopted son had assumed 
his name) died suddenly ; investigation showed that he had left no will ; 
and the angry relatives whom young Eollant-Stanley was to have sup- 
planted as the heir, inherited all his fortune. The young man was 
turned adrift, receiving from the affectionate adopted father nothing 
but the name of Henry Moreland Stanley. 

IN THE CONFEDERATE AEMY. 

Very shortly afterward, the war between the States broke out ; and 
young Stanley, being in New Orleans, and surrounded by Confederate 
influences, enlisted in the Southern army. After various adventures 
and some hair-breadth escapes, he was captured by the enemy, and 
held as a prisoner of war. The case was a hopeless one; there was no 
chance of regaining his late comrades ; and the soldier promptly took 
the oath of allegiance to the United States and enlisted in the United 
States navy. It would seem that he had none of the qualities which 
would recommend him for promotion on board of a man-of-war where 
the discipline was peculiarly rigid, as it was on the iron-clad Ticon- 
deroga; but in a few months' time we find him acting ensign. 

After the war was over, his ship was sent to the Mediterranean. 
Here he obtained leave, and, with two of his comrades, started on a pe- 
destrian tour of a part of Syria. They were attacked by Turkish bri- 
gands, and only with great difBculty were they able to make their way 
back to Constantinople, there to appeal to the American minister for 
assistance and redress. But for the excellent generalship of Stanley, 
they would never have reached the Turkish capital. 

It is a little doubtful whether this adventure occurred before or after 



STANLEY'S SEARCH FOR LIVINGSTONE. 



263 



he had left the United States service; although the probabilities are 
that it was previous to doffing his uniform. Whatever the truth may be 
in the case, he left the navy about this time, and before he revisited his 
native place, a very few months after his Turkish adventure. 



WITH THE NEW YOKK HEEALD. 



Returning to America, he was employed as special correspondent 
of the New York Herald, and given a roving commission. His duties 
first took him to Abyssinia, where the British were then waging war' 




THE ALOETOGTJ. 



against King Theodore. It is (or was) an article of firm belief in Eng- 
land that the government receives the earliest news from the seat of 
war, and gives out the information to the newspapers ; and that news- 
paper correspondents are simply to fill up the outlines thus kindly 
furnished by the authorities. Mr. Stanley somewhat astonished the 
people of the War Department by providing the London newspapers 
with information which had not then reached the office of the Minis- 
ter. It was one evidence of the energy which was derived in part from 



264 STANLEY'S SEARCH FOR LIVINGSTONE. 

Mother Nature, and in part learned from the people of his adopted 
country. 

The war over, he returned to the United States, and was attached, 
still in the capacity of special correspondent of the Herald, to the 
Indian Commission of 1867. In 1868-9, we find him in Spain, fol- 
lowing the fortunes of the royal forces and those of the republicans, 
as the latter strove to dethrone Isabella II. "While he was portraying 
the situation for the benefit of the readers of the Herald, he received, 
October 16, 1869, a dispatch from Paris. It ran thus : 

"Come to Paris on important business," 
and was signed by James Gordon Bennett, Jr., the manager of the 
New York Herald. The telegram reached him at ten A. M. ; he at once 
proceeded to make ready; his pictures and books were packed in a 
hurry; his laundress was not given time to finish drying his clothes; 
by noon he was ready, having only to say good-bye to his friends. 

At three in the afternoon, that being the hour at which the first ex- 
press left Madrid after the receipt of the telegram, he was on his way, 
arriving in Paris the following night. He went straight to the Grand 
Hotel, and knocked at the door of Mr. Bennett's room. 

A voice bade him enter ; he found Mr. Bennett in bed. 

"Who are you?" was the first question. 

"My name is Stanley," was the reply. 

"Ah, yes, sit down; I have important business for you." 

Throwing over his shoulders his robe de chambre, Mr. Bennett 
asked: 

"Where do you think Livingstone is?" 

"I really do not know, sir," rejoined the subordinate, rather taken 
aback (if Stanley ever was taken aback) at the suddenness of the ques- 
tion. 

"Do you think he is alive?" 

"He may be, and he may not be." 

"Well, I think he is alive, and that he can "be found, and I am going 
to send you to find him." 

"Wliat!" ejaculated Stanley; "do you really think that I can find 
Dr. Livingstone? Do you mean me to go to Central Africa?" 



STANLEY'S SEARCH FOR LIVINGSTONE. 265 



{i^ 



'Yes, I mean that you shall go and find him wherever you may hear 
that he is, and to get what news you can of him and perhaps"— deliver- 
ing himself thoughtfully and deliberately— "the old man may be in 
want ; take enough with you to help him, should he require it. Of course 
you will act according to your own plans, and do what you think best 
-but 



FIND LrVINGSTONE. " 



The subordinate wondered at the cool order of sending one to Cen- 
tral Africa to search for a man whom most men believed to be dead; 
and asked: 

' ' Have you considered seriously the great expense you are likely to 
incur on account of this little journey!" 

"What will it cost?" asked the chief, abruptly. 

"Burton and Speke's journey to Central Africa cost between three 
thousand and five thousand pounds, and I fear it cannot be done under 
two thousand five hundred pounds." 

"Well, I will tell you what you will do. Draw a thousand pounds 
now; and when you have gone through that, draw another thousand, 
and when that is spent, draw another thousand; and when you have 
finished that, draw another thousand, and so on; but, FIND LIVING- 
STONE." 

He was not to go directly to Africa ; or at least not to the part where 
he might expect to find Livingstone. He was to go first to the inaugura- 
tion of the Suez Canal ; then proceed up the Nile, find out what he could 
about Baker's expedition under the authority of the Khedive (the cele- 
brated Englishman was then just starting for Upper Egypt), write up 
a practical guide for Lower Egypt, go on to Jerusalem, visit Constan- 
tinople, the Crimea and its battle-grounds, cross the Caucasus to the 
Caspian Sea, write up Persepolis and Bagdad, get to India by a jour- 
ney across Persia, and thence start to Zanzibar, if news of Livingstone 
had not been received in the meantime. Having mapped out this little 
program, Mr. Bennett told him that this was all, and bade him good- 
night. 

He followed out his instructions to the letter, arriving in India in 



266 STANLEY'S SEARCH FOR LIVINGSTONE. 

August, 1870 ; on October 12, he sailed from Bombay to Mauritius, the 
journey occupying thirty-seven days; and at last arrived at Zanzibar, 
January 6, 1871. Here he was well received by the United States con- 
sul, Captain Webb ; and had the good fortune, as he then esteemed it, 
to meet with Dr. Kirk, the coadjutor of Dr. Livingstone during the Zam- 
besi expedition. 

Many questions now occurred to the traveler, which he had no means 
of answering. They were such as these : How much money is required? 
How many pagazis, or carriers? How many soldiers, free black men, 
natives of Zanzibar, or freed slaves from the interior? How much 
cloth? How many beads? How much wire? What kinds of cloth 
are required for the different tribes? He studied the volumes of Afri- 
can travels at his command, chiefly Burton, Speke, and Baker; but in- 
formation such as he sought was not to be found in them. Even the 
hints in Baker's "Ismailia" were not available, for the materials for 
that volume had not yet been collected; and Baker does not answer 
there such questions as these. 

PKEPARATIONS FOR THE JOURNEY. 

An insuperable obstacle to rapid transit in Africa is the want of car- 
riers; and as speed was the main object of the expedition under his 
command, his duty was to lessen this difficulty as much as possible. 
His carriers could only be engaged after arriving at Bagamoyo, on the 
main land. He had over twenty good donkeys ready, and he thought a 
cart adapted for the goat-paths of Africa might prove an advantage. 
Accordingly, he had one constructed, eighteen inches wide and five feet 
long, supplied with two fore-wheels of a light American wagon, more 
for the purpose of conveying the narrow ammunition-boxes. He esti- 
mated that if a donkey could carry to Unyanyembe a load of four frasil- 
ahs, or one hundred and forty pounds, he ought to be able to draw eight 
frasilahs on such a cart, which would be equal to the carrying capaci- 
ties of four stout pagazis. 

When his purchases were completed, and he beheld them piled up, 
tier after tier, and row upon row, he was rather abashed at his own 
temerity. Here were nearly six tons of material; and as a man's maxi- 



STANLEY'S SEARCH FOR LIVINGSTONE. 



267 



mum load does not exceed seventy pounds, his eleven thousand pounds 
would require about one hundred and sixty men. 

Shortly before their departure from Zanzibar, Mr. Stanley was 
presented to the sultan, who gave him letters to his officers at Baga- 
moyo and Kaole, and a general introductory letter to all Arab mer- 
chants whom he might meet on the road; and concluded his remarks 
to the traveler with the expressed hope that, on whatever mission he 
was bound, he would be perfectly successful. 




'V^vs\;W^Sa<v^-^«i<. 



THE LESSEB CIVET. 



^»s,» ^.WJ-'' 



^^'^ 



OFF FOR CENTRAL AFRICA. 

By the fourth of February, all his preparations were completed; 
and on the fifth, the New York Herald expedition sailed from Zanzi- 
bar to the mainland. This space has been devoted to the fitting out of 
the expedition, because only a fairly detailed account can give any 
idea of the difficulties which an experienced traveler, of more than 
ordinary intelligence and energy (to put it mildly) encounters in or- 



268 STANLEY'S SEARCH FOR LIVINGSTONE. 

ganizing an expedition to Central Africa, even with unlimited means at 
his command. 

On the 25th of March, exactly seventy-three days after his arrival 
at Zanzibar, Stanley's fifth caravan, led by himself, left the town of 
Bagamoyo for the first journey westward. The other caravans had 
preceded him, some by as much as a month. They left Bagamoyo, the 
attraction of all the curious, with much eclat; and defiled up a narrow 
lane shaded almost to twilight by the dense umbrage of two parallel 
rows of mimosas. Thej' were all in the highest spirits. The first 
camp, Shamba Gonera, they arrived at in one hour and thirty minutes, 
equal to three and one-fourth miles. The first or "little journey," 
was performed very well, "considering," as the Irishman says. The 
boy Selim upset the cart not more than three times ; Zaidi, the soldier, 
only once let his donkey, which carried his master's box of ammuni- 
tion and one bag of his clothes, lie in a puddle of black water. The 
clothes had to be re-washed; the ammunition-box, thanks to its owner's 
prevision, was water-proof. Kamma perhaps knew the art of donkey- 
driving, but had sung himself into oblivion of the difSculties with 
which an animal of the pure asinine breed has to contend, such as not 
knowing the road, and inability to resist the temptation of straying 
into a manioc-field; and the donkey, misunderstanding the direction in 
which he was required to go, ran off at full speed along an opposite 
road, until his pack got unbalanced, and he was fain to come to the 
earth. But these incidents were trivial, of no importance, and natural 
to the first "little journey" in Africa. 

The road was a mere foot-path, and led over a soil which, though 
sandy, was of surprising fertility, producing grain and vegetables a 
hundred fold, the sowing and planting of which was done in the most 
unskilful manner. In their fields, at heedless labor, were men and 
women in the scantiest costumes, compared with which Adam and 
Eve, in their fig-leaf apparel, must have been modesty indeed. 

JUNGLES AND OTHEK OBSTACLES. 

They were detained for three days at this first stopping-place ; but 
shortly after leaving it reached the turbid Kingani, famous for its hip- 



STANLEY'S SEARCH FOR LIVINGSTONE. 269 

popotami. They began to thread the jungle along its right bank until 
they were halted point-blank by a narrow sluice having an immeas- 
urable depth of black mud. The difficulty presented by this was very 
grave, although its breadth was barely eight feet; the donkeys, and 
least of all the horses, could not be made to traverse two poles like 
the biped carriers, neither could they be driven into the sluice, where 
they would quickly founder. The only available way of crossing it in 
safety was by means of a bridge, to endure in this conservative land for 
generations as the handiwork of the Wasungu. So they set to work, 
there being no help for it, with American axes, to build a bridge. It 
was compassed of sis stout trees thrown across; over these were laid 
crosswise fifteen pack saddles, these covered again with a thick layer 
of grass. All the animals crossed it safely; and than for the third 
time that morning the process of wading was performed. 

A half-mile to the north, and they reached the ferry; while the 
work of unloading the donkeys was going forward, Stanley sat down 
on a condemned canoe to amuse himself with the hippopotami by pep- 
pering their thick skulls with his No. 12 smooth-bore. One old fellow, 
with the look of a sage, was tapped close to the right ear by one of his 
smaller bullets ; instead of submerging himself as others had done, he 
coolly turned round his head as if to ask: 

"Why this waste of valuable cartridges on us?" 

The response to this mute inquiry of his sageship was an ounce and 
a quarter bullet from the smoothbore, which made him bellow with 
pain, and in a few moments he rose again tumbling in his death 
agonies. As his groans were so piteous, the sportman refrained from 
a useless sacrifice of life, and left the amphibious horde in peace. 

Mr. Stanley was anxious to try what a good watch-dog might do 
to protect him from the unmannerly Wagogo, of whom he had heard 
much from the Arabs ; and had accordingly brought one with him. He 
found it of very great use, in keeping out of his tent these ruffians of 
the wilderness. Shortly after crossing the above-named river, the 
fifth caravan became the fourth, by reason of delays which sickness im- 
posed upon that which had started the earlier. 



270 



STANLEY'S SEARCH FOR LIVINGSTONE. 




AK DLD HIPPOPOTAMUS WITH THE LOOK OF A SAGE. 



STANLEY'S SEARCH FOR LIVINGSTONE. 271 

THE EAINY SEASON. 

They pushed on toward Kingaru, the rainy season having now 
begun, and made travel very difficult. The natives poured into camiJ 
from the villages in the woods with their vendibles. Foremost among 
these, as in duty bound, came the chief, bearing three measures of ma- 
tama and a half-measure of rice, of which he begged, with paternal 
smiles, the traveler's acceptance. But under the smiling mask, bleared 
eyes, and wrinkled front of him was visible the soul of trickery, which 
was of the cunningest kind. Eesponding under the same mask adopted 
by this knavish elder, Stanley said : 

"The chief of Kingaru has called me a rich sultan. If I am a rich 
sultan why comes not the chief with a rich present to me that he 
might get a rich return ? ' ' 

Said he, with another leer of his wrinkled visage : 

"Kingaru is poor, there is no matama in the village." 

To this appeal, Mr. Stanley replied that since there was no matama 
in the village, he would pay the chief half a shukka, or a yard of 
cloth, which would be exactly equivalent to his present; that if the 
chief preferred to call his small basketful a present, the white man 
would be content to call his yard of cloth a present. With this logic 
the chief had to be satisfied. 

One of the two horses brought from Zanzibar died the next day, and 
by the orders of the leader, was buried, in order that the decaying 
flesh might not affect the health of the people of Kingaru. This con- 
sideration, however, was but poorly repaid; for the chief demanded 
that the white man should pay a fine of two doti of Merikani for his 
presumption in burying the horse within his domain. To this Stanley 
replied by demanding how many soldiers he had. The question was 
repeated before the answer was given that he had none, only a few 
young men. To this the white man retorted: 

"Oh, I thought you might have a thousand men with you, by your 
going to fine a strong white man, who has plenty of guns and soldiers, 
two doti for burying a dead horse." 

The chief was staggered but not convinced; whereupon Stanley, 



272 



STANLEY'S SEARCH FOR LIVINGSTONE. 



after explaining the sanitary reasons for burying the animal, gener- 
ously offered to repair his error at once: 

"This minute my soldiers shall dig him out again, and cover up 
the soil as it was before; and the horse shall be left where he died. 
Ho ! Bombay, take soldiers with jembes to dig my horse out of the 
ground, drag him to where he died, and make everything ready for 
a march to-morrow morning." 




iiZABA's AGOUTI. 



Kingaru, his voice considerably higher, and his head moving to 
and fro with emotion, cries out : 

"No, no, master! Let not the white man get angry. The horse is 
dead, and now lies buried ; let him remain so, since he is already there-, 
and let us be friends again." 

The second horse died that night. Other misfortunes came. Out 
of a force of twenty-five men, one deserted, and ten were on the sick- 



STANLEY'S SEARCH FOR LIVINGSTONE. 273 

list. They left Kingaru April 6; and the long stay there had com- 
pletely demoralized soldiers and pagazis, Oiily a few of them had 
strength to reach Imbiki before night; the others, attending the laden 
donkeys, put in an appearance next morning, in a lamentable state of 
mind and body. 

At Muhalleh, which they reached a little after the middle of April, 
they met Selim bin Bashid, bound eastward, with a huge caravan carry- 
ing three hundred ivory tusks. This good Arab, besides welcoming 
the newcomer with a present of rice, gave him news of Livingstone. 
He had met the old traveler at Ujiji, had lived in the next hut to him 
for three weeks, described him as looking old, with long gray mus- 
taches and beard, just recovered from severe illness, looking very 
wan; when fully recovered Livingstone intended to visit a country 
called Manyuema by way of Marungu. 

AN INSOLENT FELLOW. 

But illness was not the only danger with which he had to contend. 
Of the two white men hired at Zanzibar, Farquhar had shown himself 
to be inexcusably extravagant in the expenditure of the stores com- 
mitted to his care. He was continually crying out like a sick baby for 
half a dozen people to wait upon him, and if they did not happen to 
understand the English language in which he addressed them, he poured 
out a volley of the most profane abuse that ever offended the ears of 
a Christian gentleman. The soldiers were in such dread of his insane 
violence that they feared to go near him. He was ill with a disease of 
which Stanley could secure no definite description of the symptoms; 
and by his weight and see-sawing method of riding killed every donkey 
that he rode. 

But Shaw was even worse to deal with than Farquhar; and since 
he had been with the caravan which Stanley led in person, the leader's 
patience, so far as he was concerned, was about exhausted, when on 
May 15th, the crisis came. It was at breakfast time; the meal had 
just been served, and Stanley had asked Shaw to carve. 

"What dog's meat is this?" he asked, in the most insolent way 
imaginable. 

ia 



274 STANLEY'S SEARCH FOR LIVINGSTONE. 

"What do you mean?" asked Stanley. 

Then ensued a volley of abuse, tempered with profanity; to which 
the indignant chief replied by a recapitulation of what they had brought 
upon him ; closing with an expostulation at being sworn at at his own 
table, and reminding Shaw that he was his (Stanley's) servant. An 
oath was the rejoinder; but before Mr. Shaw could say more, he had 
measured his length on the ground. 

He thereupon demanded his discharge ; to which Stanley most will- 
ingly agreed; giving orders at once that Shaw's tent should be struck, 
ijnd that he and his baggage should be escorted two hundred yards out- 
side the camp. After breakfast was over, Stanley explained to Farqu- 
har how necessary it was for him to be able to proceed; that as Farqu- 
har was sick, and would probably be unable to march for a time, it 
would be better that he should be left in some quiet place, under the 
care of a good chief, who would, for a consideration, look after him 
until he got well. To this Farquhar had agreed. 

Stanley had barely finished speaking before Bombay came to the 
door and informed him that Mr. Shaw would like to speak to him. He 
went out to the gate of the camp, and there met Shaw, looking ex- 
tremely penitent and ashamed. He commenced to ask pardon, and 
began imploring Stanley to take him back again; promising that he 
should never find fault with him again. Stanley held out his hand to 
him, saying: 

"Don't mention it, my dear fellow. Quarrels occur in the best of 
families. Since you apologize, there is an ^nd of it." 

That night as Stanley was falling asleep, he heard a shot, and a 
bullet tore through his tent, a few inches above his body. He snatched 
his revolvers and rushed out of his tent, and asked the men about the 
watchfires, "Who shot?" They had all jumped up, rather started at 
the sudden report. 

"Who fired that gun?" 

"Bana Mdogo," said one, (the little master, i. e., Shaw). 

Stanley lit a candle, and walked with it to Shaw's tent. 

"Shaw did you fire?" 



STANLEY'S SEARCH FOR LIVINGSTONE. 275 

There was no answer. He seemed to be asleep, he was breathing 
so hard. 

"Shaw! Shaw! did you fire that shot?" 

"Eh— ehl" said he, suddenly awaking— "me?— me fire? I have 
been asleep." 

Stanley's eye caught sight of his gun lying near him. He seized it, 
felt it, put his little finger down the barrel. The gun was warm, his 
finger was black from the burnt gunpowder. 

"What is this?" he asked, holding his finger up; "the gun is warm. 
The men tell me you fired." 

' ' Ah, yes, ' ' replied Shaw ; " I remember it. I dreamed I saw a thief 
pass my door, and I fired. Ah— yes— I forgot. I did fire. Why, what 
is the matter?" 

"Oh, nothing," said Stanley. "But I would advise you in future, 
in order to avoid all suspicion, not to fire into my tent, or at least so near 
me. I might get hurt, you know, in which case ugly reports would get 
about, and this perhaps would be disagreeable, as you are probably 
aware. Good night." 

But what a clumsy way to murder ! Surely, had he done so, Stan- 
ley's own men would have punished him as the crime deserved. A 
thousand better opportunities than this would be presented in a month's 
march. Stanley could only account for it by supposing he was momen- 
tarily insane. 

The next thing which must be done was to provide a home for 
Farquhar until he should be able to return to the coast. Leucole, the 
chief of the village, with whom Stanley made arrangements for Farqu- 
har 's protection and comfort, suggested that he should appoint some 
man in his employ to wait on him, and interpret his wishes to Leucole 's 
people. Making inquiry, Stanley was assured by Bombay that any 
soldier whom he might appoint for this purpose would obey him until 
he was gone, and then run away. Despite Bombay's assertion, the 
leader inquired of each man personally whether he would be willing to 
stay behind, and wait on the sick Musungu (white man). From each 
man he received an answer in the negative; they were afraid of him, 
he damned them so; and Ulimengo mimicked him so faithfully, yet so 



276 STANLEY'S SEARCH FOR LIVINGSTONE. 

ludicrously, that it was almost impossible to abstain from laughing 
As, however, the sick man absolutely needed some one to attend him, 
Stanley was compelled to use his authority; and Jako, who could speak 
English, was, despite his protestations and prayers, appointed. Six 
months provisions of white beads, besides a present for Leucole, a car- 
bine, ammunition and tea were set aside for Farquhar's wants. 

This took place in the neighborhood of the Mpwapwa range of 
mountains, a country memorable to the traveler by reason of its plen- 
tiful and excellent milk, and its equally plentiful earwigs, for which 
!ie did not feel quite so grateful as for the milk. Second to the earwigs 
in importance and numbers he found the white ants, whose powers of 
destructiveness were simply awful. Mats, cloth, portmanteaus, clothes, 
in short, every article he possessed, seemed to be on the verge of de- 
struction; and as he witnessed their voracity, he felt anxious lest his 
tent should be devoured while he slept. 

MIRAMBO AND HIS MISDEEDS. 

The road to Ujiji was closed by Mirambo, chief of Uyoweh; what 
was to be done? Stanley found himself in the midst of preparations 
for war on the part of the Arabs of Unyanyembe. 

This Mirambo of Uyoweh, it seems, for the past few years had 
been in a state of chronic discontent with the policies of the neighbor- 
ing chiefs. Formerly a pagazi for an Arab, he had now assumed regal 
power, with the usual knack of unconscionable rascals who care not by 
what means they step into power. "WTien the chief of Uyoweh died, 
Mirambo, who was head of a gang of robbers infesting the forests of 
Wilyankuru, suddenly entered Uyoweh, and constituted himself lord 
paramount by force. Some feats of enterprise, which he performed 
to the enrichment of all those who recognized his authority, estab- 
lished him firmly in his position. This was but a beginning; he carried 
war through Ugara to Ukonongo, through Usagozi to the borders of 
Uvinza, and after destroying the population over three degrees of 
latitude, he conceived a grievance against Mkasiwa, and against the 
Arabs, because they would not sustain him in his ambitious projects 
against their ally and friend with whom they were living in peace. 



STANLEY'S SEARCH FOR LIVINGSTONE. 



277 



The first outrage which this audacious man committed against the 
Arabs was the halting of an Ujiji-bound caravan, and the demand for 
five kegs of gunpowder, five guns, and five bales of cloth. This ex- 
traordinary demand, after expending more than a day in fierce contro- 




THE GEMSBOK. 



versy, was paid; but the Arabs, if they were surprised at the exorbi- 
tant blackmail demanded of them, were more than ever surprised when 
told to return the way that they came ; and that no Arab caravan should 
pass to Ujiji except over his dead body. 



278 



STANLEY'S SEARCH FOR LIVINGSTONE. 




THE ZEBRA. 



STANLEY'S SEARCH FOR LIVINGSTONE. 279 

One road to Ujiji had been tried, and had been found impassable. 
The southern route was not well known to those about him ; and they 
vaguely hinted of want of water and robber Wazavira as obstacles in 
the way. 

But before he could venture on this new route, he had to employ a 
new set of men, as those whom he took to Mfuto considered their en- 
gagement at an end, and the fact of five of their number being killed 
rather damped their ardor for traveling. It was useless to hope that 
Wanyamwezi could be engaged, because it was against their custom 
to go with caravans, as carriers, during war-times. His position was 
most serious; but although he had a good excuse for returning to the 
coast, he felt that he must die sooner than return. 

While Stanley was still uncertain what to do, or how to procure 
a sufficient number of pagazis, firing was heard from the direction of 
Tabora, where the Arabs were still encamped. Some of the men who 
were sent out to ascertain the cause came running back with the in- 
formation that Mirambo had attacked Tabora with over two thousand 
men, and that a force of over one thousand Matuta, who had allied 
themselves with him for the sake of plunder, had come suddenly upon 
Tabora, attacking from opposite directions. Later in the day, or about 
noon, the way was crowded with fugitives from Tabora, who were 
rushing to Kwihara for protection. From these people, Stanley re- 
ceived the sad information that the noble Khamis bin Abdullah, with 
many of his adherents, had been slain. Perceiving that his people were 
ready to stand by him, Stanley made preparations for defense by 
boring loop-holes for muskets into the stout clay walls of his tembe. 
They were made so quickly, and seemed so admirably adapted for the 
efficient defense of the tembe that his men got quite brave ; and Wang- 
wana refugees with guns in their hands, driven out of Tabora, asked to 
be admitted to this tembe to assist in its defense. Livingstone's men 
were also collected, and invited to help defend their master's goods 
against Mirambo 's supposed attack. By night, Stanley had one hun- 
dred and fifty armed men in his courtyard, stationed at every possible 
point where an attack was to be expected. The next day, Mirambo had 
threatened, he would come to Kwihara; Stanley hoped that he would 



280 



STANLEY'S SEARCH FOR LIVINGSTONE. 



come, and was resolved that if he came within range of an American 
rifle, it should be seen what virtue lies in American lead. 
The tembe was fortified 



so strongly that Stanley ex- 
pressed it as his firm con- 
viction that ten thousand 
Africans could not take it; 
four or five hundred Euro- 
l^eans without cannon, or 
fifty with its aid, he adds, 
might take it. But having 
expended all this care, and 
waited so anxiously to give 
Mirambo a taste of Ameri- 
can lead, that gentleman 
chose to avoid the place 
where such a reception had 
been prepared for him, and 
turned his attention to 
Mfuto. 

While he was anxiously 
gathering up a sufficient 
number of men to transport 
his necessary baggage to 
Ujiji, Stanley received a 




KALULU, STANLEYS FAVOBITE SEBVANT. 



present. This was nothing less than a little boy slave, named Ndugu 
M'hali. The name did not suit his fancy, and he called the chiefs of his 
caravan together and asked them to choose a better one. Various names 
were suggested, but Ulimengo, after looking at his quick eyes, and 
noting his celerity of movement, pronounced the name "Ka-lu-lu" best 
for him, "Because," said he, "just look at his eyes! So bright! Look 
at his form! So slim! Watch his movements! So quick!" 

"Yes, bana," said the others, "let it be Kalulu." 

Kalulu is a Kisawahili term for the young of the blue-buck an- 
telope. 



STANLEY'S SEARCH FOR LIVINGSTONE. 281 

"'Well, then," said Stanley, water being brought in a huge tin 
pan, Selim, who was willing to stand god-father, holding him over the 
water, ' ' let his name henceforth be Kalulu, and let no man take it from 
him." 

MIEAMBO's ATTACKS. 

The next day (Sept. 8) word was received that Mirambo had at- 
tacked Mfuto; the result of the engagement was not told until the 
next day; when the welcome news was received that Mirambo had 
been repulsed with severe loss. From this point forward, Mirambo 
had but little terror for the people at Kwihara, and Stanley was able 
to carry on his work of getting ready for the journey to Ujiji, un- 
hindered by any circumstance except the sickness of Shaw and Selim. 

A farewell banquet was given on the 17th; two bullocks were bar- 
becued ; three sheep, two goats, and fifteen chickens, one hundred and 
twenty pounds of rice, twenty large loaves made of Indian corn flour, 
one hundred eggs, ten pounds of butter, and five gallons of sweet milk 
were the contents of which the banquet was formed. 

The march was without other incidents for several days. It was 
Oct. 2 that they caught sight of a herd of giraffes, whose long necks 
were seen towering above a bush they had been nibbling at. This sight 
was greeted with a shout, for they knew that they had entered 
the game country, and that near the Gombe, where they intended to 
halt, they would find plenty of these animals. 

Three hours brought them to Manyara. Arriving before the vil- 
lage-gate, they were forbidden to enter, as the country was through- 
out in a state of war, and the villagers did not wish to be compromised. 
The travelers were directed to ruined huts outside the town, near a 
pool of clear water. After they had built their camp, the guide was 
sent to buy food; he was informed that the chief had forbidden his 
people to sell any grain whatever. Two royal cloths were selected, 
and sent by Bombay to propitiate the chief; but proved useless; and all 
the caravan went supperless to bed. 

The bale of choice cloths was opened again the next morning and 
four royal cloths were this time selected, and two dotis of Merikani, 



282 



STANLEY'S SEARCH FOR LIVINGSTONE. 



and Bombay was again dispatched, burdened with compliments and 
polite words. It was necessary to be very politic with a man who was 
so surly, and too powerful to make an enemy of. What if he made up 
his mind to imitate the redoubtable Mirambo, king of Uyoweh! The 
effect of Stanley's munificent liberality was soon seen in the abundance 
of provender which came into the camp. Before an hour went by, 
there came boxes full of choroko, beans, rice, matama or dourra, and 
Indian corn, carried on the heads of a dozen villagers; and shortly 




THE PICHICIAGO. 



afterward the Mtemi himself came, followed by about thirty musketeers 
and twenty spearmen, to visit the first white man ever seen on this 
road. Behind these warriors came a liberal gift fully equal in value to 
that sent to him, of several large gourds of honey, fowls, goats, and 
enough vetches and beans to supply the caravan with four days' food. 



STANLEY MEETS MIRAMBO. 

Stanley met the chief at the gate of his camp, and bowing pro- 
foundly, invited him to his tent, which he had arranged as well as hi^ 
circumstances would permit, for this reception. His Persian carpet 
and bear skin were spread out, and a broad piece of bran-new crimson 
cloth covered his kitanda, or bedstead. 



STANLEY'S SEARCH FOR LIVINGSTONE. 283 

The chief, a tall, robust man, and his chieftains were invited to 
seat themselves. They cast a look of such gratified surprise at their 
host, his face, his clothes, and guns, as it is impossible to describe. They 
looked at him intently for a few seconds, and then at each other, which 
ended in an uncontrollable burst of laughter, and repeated snappings 
of the fingers. After a short period expended in exchanging compli- 
ments, the chief desired Stanley to show him his guns. The Win- 
chester rifle elicited a thousand flattering observations from the ex- 
cited man; and the tiny deadly revolvers, whose beauty and work- 
manship they thought superhuman, evoked such gratified eloquence 
that the American was glad to try something else. The double-barreled 
guns fired with heavy charges of powder caused them to jump up in 
affected alarm, and then to subside to their seats convulsed with 
laughter. As the enthusiasm of the guests increased, they seized each 
other's index fingers, screwed them and pulled at them until the host 
feared they would end in their dislocation. After having explained to 
them the difference between white men and Arabs, Stanley pulled out 
his medicine chest, which evoked another burst of rapturous sighs at 
the cunning neatness of the array of vials. He asked what they meant.' 

"Doiva,^' replied Stanley, sententiously ; a word which may be in- 
terpreted, medicine. 

"Oh-h, oh-h," they murmured, admiringly. The white man suc- 
ceeded, ere long, in winning unqualified admiration ; and his superiority, 
compared with the best of the Arabs they had seen, was but too evi- 
dent. "Doiva, doiva,^' they added. 

"Here," said Stanley, uncorking a vial of medicinal brandy, "is 
the Kisungu pombe (white man's beer) ; take a spoonful and try it," 
at the same time handing it. 

"Haclit, hacht, oh, haclit! What! Eh! What strong beer the white 
men have! Oh, how my throat burns!" 

"Ah, but it is good," said Stanley; "a little of it makes men feel 
strong and good; but too much of it makes men bad. and they die." 

"Let me have some," said one of the chiefs; and the request was 
echoed until all had asked. 

The exhibitor next produced a bottle of concentrated ammonia, 



284 STANLEY'S SEARCH FOR LIVINGSTONE. 

which he explained was for snake-bites, and headaches ; the sultan im- 
mediately complained he had a headache, and must have a little. Tell- 
ing him to close his eyes, Stanley suddenly uncorked the bottle, and 
presented it to his majesty's nose. The effect was magical, for he 
fell back as if shot, and such contortions as his features underwent 
are indescribable. His chiefs roared with laughter, and clapped their 
hands, pinched each other, snapped their fingers, and did many other 
ludicrous things. Finally the sultan recovered himself, great tears 
rolling down his cheeks, and his features quivering with Jaugbter; 
then he suddenly uttered the word "Kali,^^ strong, quick, or ardent 
medicine. He required no more; but the other chiefs pushed forward 
to get one wee sniff, which they no sooner had than all went into par- 
oxysms of uncontrollable laughter. The entire morning was passed 
in this state visit, to the satisfaction of all concerned. 

"Oh," said the sultan at parting, "these white men know every- 
thing! The Arabs are dirt compared to them." 

October 4, they left their camp here, and traveled toward Gombe, 
which is four hours and a quarter from Manyara. Here, at last, was 
the hunter's paradise. Hunters were now directed to proceed east 
and north to procure meat, because in each caravan it generally hap- 
pens that there are fundi, whose special trade is to hunt for meat for 
the camp. Some of these are experts in stalking, but often find them- 
selves in dangerous positions, owing to the near approach necessary 
before they can fire their most inaccurate weapons with any degree of 
certainty. 



CHAPTER XIX. 

HOW STANLEY FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

A Mutiny — Stanley's Life Again Attempted — Attack of a Leopaid — Lions near the Camp — 
"A White Man at Ujiji" — Silencing a Woman — Tanganyika — "Dr. Livingstone, I Pre- 
sume?" — Under the Palms of Ujiji — A Lion in the Grass — Parting from Livingstone — 
"Drop That Box, and I'll Shoot You"— Going Home. 

We have not space here to detail Stanley's prowess in hunting, 
since it brought nothing of special adventure; we must pass on to a 
more dangerous incident. 

The caravan remained two days at this camping-place, the hunters 
procuring plenty of meat, which the others cut and sliced so that it 
might be dried for future use; and even then the meat-loving, lazy 
Wangwana did not wish to go. They delegated Bombay early in the 
morning of the 7th to speak to Stanley, and entreat him to stop one 
day longer. Bombay was well scolded for bearing any such request 
after two days' rest; and Bombay was by no means in the best of 
humors; flesh-pots full of meat were more to his taste than a constant 
tramping, and its consequent fatigues. Stanley saw his face settle 
into sulky ugliness, and his great nether lip hanging down limp, which 
means, as if expressed in so many words : 

"Well, get them to move yourself, you wicked, hard man! I shall 
not help you." 

An ominous silence followed Stanley's order to the kirangozi to 
sound the horn, and the usual singing and chanting were not heard. 
The men turned sullenly to their bales, and Asmani, the gigantic guide, 
was heard to say grumblingly that he was sorry he had engaged to guide 
the Musungu to the Tanganyika. However, they started, though re- 
luctantly. Stanley stayed behind with the gun-bearers, to drive the 
stragglers on. In about half an hour he sighted the caravan at a 
dead stop, with the bales thrown on the ground, and the men standing 
in groups talking angrily and excitedly. 

285 



286 HOW STANLEY FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

Taking his double-barreled gun from Selim's shoulder, he selected 
a dozen charges of buckshot, and slipping two of them into the bar- 
rels, and adjusting his revolvers in order for handy work, he walked 
on toward them. He noticed that the men seized their guns as he ad-* 
vanced. When within thirty yards of the groups, he discovered the 
heads of two men apiDear above an ant-hill on his lift, with the barrels 
of their guns carelessly pointed toward the road. 

He halted, threw the barrel of his gun into the hollow of the left 
hand, and then, taking a deliberate aim at them, threatened to blow their 
heads off if they did not come forward to talk to him. These two men 
were gigantic Asmani, and his sworn companion Mabruki, the guides 
of Sheikh bin Nasib. As it was dangerous not to comply with such an 
order, they presently came; but keeping his eye on Asmani, Stanley 
saw him move his fingers to the trigger of his gun, and bring his gun 
to a "ready." Again the white man lifted his gun, and threatened 
him with instant death, if he did not drop his musket. 

Asmani came on in a sidelong waj', with a smirking smile on his 
face, but in his eyes shone the lurid light of murder as plainly as it 
ever shone in a villain's eyes. Mabruki sneaked to Stanley's rear, 
deliberately putting powder in the pan of his musket ; but sweeping the 
gun sharply around, the Musungu jjlanted the muzzle of it about two 
feet from his wicked-looking face, and ordered him to drop his gun 
instantly. He let it fall from his hand quickly ; and, giving him a vigor- 
ous poke in the stomach with the double-barrel, which sent him reeling 
a few feet, Stanley turned to Asmani, and ordered him to put his gun 
down; accompanying the order with a nervous movement of his own 
weapon, pressing gently on the trigger at the same time. Never was 
a man nearer his death than was Asmani during those few moments. 
The white man was reluctant to shed his blood, and he was willing to 
try all possible means to avoid doing so; but if he did not succeed in 
cowing this ruffian, authority was at an end. The truth was, they 
feared to proceed farther on the road, and the only possible way of 
inducing them to move was by an overpowering force and exercise of 
his power and will in this instance, even though he might pay the pen- 
alty of his disobedience with death. As Stanley was beginning to feel 



HOW STANLEY FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 287 

that Asmani had passed his last moment on earth, as he was lifting 
his gun to his shoulder, a form came up behind him, and Mabruki Speke 
cried in horror-struck accents: 

"Man, how dare you point your gun at the master?" 

Mabruki then threw himself at Stanley's feet, and endeavored to 
kiss them, and entreated him not to punish him : 

"It is all over now," he said, "there will be no more quarreling; 
we will go to the Tanganyika, without any more noise; and Inshallah! 
we shall find the old Musungu at Ujiji! Speak, men, freedmen, shall 
we not? Shall we not go to the Tanganyika without any more trouble? 
Tell the master with one voice." 

"Ay Wallah! Ay Wallah! Bana yango! Eamuna manneno mgini!" 
which, being literally translated, means : 

"Yes, by Godl Yes, by God! my master! There are no other 
words." 

"Ask the master's pardon, man, or go thy way," said Mabruki, 
peremptorily, to Asmani; which Asmani did, to the gratification of 
them all. It only remained for Stanley to extend a general pardon to 
all, except to Bombay ana Ambari, the instigators of the mutiny, which 
was now happily quelled. For Bombay could by a word, as the cap- 
tain, have nipped all manifestation of bad temper at the outset, had he 
been so disposed. But no, Bombay was more adverse to mai'ching 
than the cowardliest of his fellows, not because he was cowardly, but 
because he loved indolence, and made a god of his belly. So, snatching 
up a spear, Stanley laid its staff vigorously on Bombay's shoulders, 
and then sprang upon Ambari, whose mocking face soon underwent a 
remarkable transformation; and then clapped them both in chains, 
with a threat that they would be kept chained until they knew how to 
ask their master's pardon. Asmani and Mabruki were told to be cau- 
tious not to exhibit their ugly tempers any more, lest they might taste 
the death they had so fortunately escaped. 

Again the word was given to march, and each man, with astonishing 
alacrity, seized his load, and filed off quickly out of sight; Bombay and 
Ambari in the rear in chains, with Kingaru and Asmani, the deserters, 
v*^eighted with the heaviest loads. They had barely traveled an hour 



288 



HOW STANLEY FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 



from the Gombe before Bombay and Ambari m trembling accents im- 
plored their master's pardon; he permitted them to continue for half 
an hour longer, when he finally relented, releasing them both from 
their chains, and restoring Bombay to his full honors as captain. 




IBS WHJ) BOAS. 



They traveled fourteen days in a southwesterly direction and Stan- 
ley intended to have gone still further south ; but rumors of war on the 
path before them induced him to change this plan. After consulting 
with Asmani, the guide, he decided to strike across toward the Tan- 
ganyika, on a west-by-north course through the forest, traveling, when 
it was advantageous, along elephant tracks and local paths. 

AH were firm friends now; all squabbling had long ceased. Bombay 



il 



HOW STANLEY FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 289 

and his master had forgotten their quarrel ; the kirangozi and Stanley 
were ready to embrace. Confidence returned to all hearts; for now, 
as Mabruki Unyanyembe said: "They could smell the fish of the Tan- 
ganyika." 

They were now in a country where the most dangerous animals 
were to be found ; Stanley had already seen the first herd of elephants 
in their native wilds ; and their camp on the Mtambu proved to be near 
the lairs of leopards and of lions. As some of the men were taking the 
two donkeys to water from this camp, a leopard sprang upon one of the 
animals, and fastened its claws in his throat. The frightened donkey 
began to bray so loudly, and was so warmly assisted by its companions, 
that the leopard bounded away through the brake, as if in sheer dis- 
may at the noisy cries which the attack had provoked. The donkey's 
neck exhibited some frightful wounds, but the animal was not danger- 
ously hurt. 

MEETS A WILD BOAB. 

Stanley, thinking that possibly he might meet with an adventure 
with a lion or leopard in that dark belt of tall trees, took a stroll along 
that awesome place with the gun-bearer, Kalulu, carrying an extra sup- 
ply of ammunition and an additional gun. But after an hour's search 
for adventure he had encountered nothing, and strolled further in 
search of something to shoot. Presently he saw a huge wild boar 
feeding quietly at some distance from him. He got two shots at this 
animal, but his bullets were not heavy enough to penetrate his thick 
hide and do any material damage, so that the boar escaped. As it was 
now getting late, and the camp was three miles away, they were obliged 
to return without the meat. On their way to camp they were accom- 
panied by a large animal which persistently followed them on their left. 
It was too dark to see plainly, but a large form was visible, if not very 
clearly defined. It must have been a lion. 

About eleven that night, they were startled by the roar of a lion very 
near the camp ; soon it was joined by another and another, and the nov- 
elty of the thing kept the white man awake. He endeavored to sight a 
rifle ; but the cartridges might as well have been filled with sawdust for 

19 



290 HOW STANLEY FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

all the benefit which he derived from them. Disgusted with the miser, 
able ammunition, he left the lions alone, and turned in, with their roar 
as a lullaby. 

A WHITE MAN. 

November 3, being then in Uvinza, they saw a caravan which came 
from the direction of Ujiji, consisting of about eighty Waguhha. They 
asked the news, and were told that a white man had just arrived at 
Ujiji from Manyuema. This news startled them all. 

"A white man?" Stanley asked. 

"Yes, a white man," was the reply. 

"How is he dressed?" 

"Like the master," they said, referring to Stanley. 

" Is he young or old f ' ' 

"He is old. He has white hair on his face, and he is sick." 

"Where has he come from?" 

"From a very far country away beyond Ugubha, called Manyuema." 

"Indeed! And is he stopping at Ujiji now?" 

"Yes, we saw him about eight days ago." 

"Do you think he will stop there until we see him?" 

"Sigue" (don't know). 

"Was he ever at Ujiji before?" 

"Yes, he went away a long time ago." 

It must be Livingstone. It can be no other; but still— he may be 
some one else— some one from the west coast— or perhaps he is Baker. 
No, Baker has no white hairs on his face. But they must now march 
quickly, lest he hears that they are coming, and runs away. Stanley 
addressed his men, and asked them if they were willing to march to 
Ujiji without a single halt: and then promised them, if they acceded to 
his wishes, two doti for each man. All answered in the aflSrmative, 
almost as much rejoiced as he was himself. But he was madly re- 
joiced, intensely eager to solve the burning question: "Is it Dr. Liv- 
ingstone?" He did wish there was a railroad, or at least horses in this 
country ; with a horse he could reach Ujiji in about twelve hours. 



HOW STANLEY FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 



291 



DELAYS AND DANGER. 

But the time necessary was mucli longer than this. They must 
pass through Uhha, and there they were subject to many delays. The 
messenger of the king demanded Jiongo, or tribute, to an enormous 
extent. After considerable haggling, this was paid; a few miles fur- 
ther on, the king himself demanded honga, and denied all knowledge 
of his supposed agent. This, too, had to be paid. Yet farther, the king's 
brother required honga, for he was almost as powerful as the king. 

Upon consultation with his chief men, Stanley decided that the only 
way to escape absolute penury as the result of a journey through Uhha, 



1 




THE ALPINE MARMOT. 



was to keep away from the villages and roads, and, trusting only to the 
compass, plunge boldly into the forests and make their way, by a hith- 
erto untrodden path, out of the country. Provisions sufficient to last six 
days were purchased, the guides were given an extra douceur, orders 
for the strictest silence Aroughout the march were issued, and the car- 
avan marched. 

They stole out of their camp near a village at 3 A. M. ; and by 8 had 
reached the Eusugi, where they camped in a clump of jungle near its 
banks. An hour after they had rested, some natives, carrying salt from 
the Malagarazi, were seen coming up the right bank of the river. When 
abreast of the hiding-place they detected the strangers, and dropping 
their salt-bags, they ran to give the alarm to the neighboring villages, 



292 HOIV STANLEY FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

iuur miles away. The men were immediately ordered to take up their 
loads, and in a few minutes they had crossed the Rusugi, and were mak- 
ing direct for a bamboo jungle which appeared in their front. 'Almost 
as soon as they entered, a weak-brained woman raised a series of pierc- 
ing yells. The men were appalled at this noisy demonstration, which 
would call down upon their heads the vengeance of the Wahha for evad- 
ing the tribute to which they thought themselves entitled. In half an 
hour they would have hundreds of howling savages about them in the 
jungle, and probably a general massacre would ensue. The woman 
screamed fearfully, again and again, for no cause whatever. Some of 
the men with the instinct of self-preservation, at once dropped their 
bales and their loads, and vanished into the jungle. The guide came 
rushing back to Stanley, imploring him to stop her noise. The woman's 
husband, livid with rage and fear, drew his sword, and asked his mas- 
ter's permission to cut off her head at once. Had Stanley given the 
least signal, the woman had paid for her folly with her life. He at- 
tempted to hush her cries by putting his hand over her mouth, but she 
violently wrestled with him, and continued her cries worse than ever. 
There remained nothing else for him to do but to try the virtues of his 
whip over her shoulders. He asked her to desist after the first blow. 
Nol She continued her insane cries with increased force and volume. 
Again his whip descended upon her shoulders. "No, no, no !" Another 
blow. "Will you hush?" "No, no, no!" Louder and faster she cried, 
and faster and. faster he showered the blows for the taming of this 
shrew. However, seeing he was as determined to flog as she was to 
cry, she desisted before the tenth blow, and was silent. A cloth was 
folded over her mouth, and her arms were tied behind her ; and in a few 
moments, the runaways having returned to tlieir duties, the expedi- 
tion moved forward again with redoubled pace. 

Still keeping silence, they at last passed through Guhha, and were 
out of danger of extortion. They arrived at a point whence the Tan- 
ganyika could be seen, November 10. It was the fifty-first day after 
leaving Unyanyembe, and the two hundred and thirty-sixth after leav- 
ing Bagamoyo. They now pushed on rapidly, lest the news of their 
coming might reach the people of Bunder Ujiji before they came iu 



HOW STANLEY FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 



293 



sight and were ready for them. They halt at a little brook, then ascend 
the long slope of a naked ridge, the very last of the myriads they have 
crossed. They arrive at the summit, travel across and arrive at its 
western rim, and the port of Ujiji is below them, embowered in the 
palms, only five himdred yards from them. Their hearts and feelings are 




THE WATEB DEEBLET, OB CHEVBOTAIN. 



with their eyes, as they peer into the palms and try to make out in which 
hut or house lives the white man with the gray beard they heard about 
on the Malagarazi. 

"Unfurl the flags, and load your guns!" 
• "Ay Wallah, Ay Wallah, hana!" respond the men eagerly. 
"( )ne — ^two — ^three — ^fire!" 



294 HOW STANLEY FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

A volley from nearly fifty guns roars like a salute from a battery of 
artillery; we shall note its effect presently on the peaceful-looking 
village below. 

"Now, kirangozi, hold the white man's flag up high, and let the Zan- 
zibar flag bring up the rear. And you men keep close together and keep 
firing until we halt in the market-place, or before the white man's house. 
You have said to me often that you could smell the fish of the Tangan- 
yika—I can smell the fish of the Tanganyika now. There are fish, and 
beer, and a long rest waiting for you. MARCH!" 

FORWARD ! MARCH ! 

Before they had gone a hundred yards their repeated volleys had 
had the effect desired. They had awakened Ujiji to the knowledge 
that a caravan was coming, and the people were witnessed rushing 
up in hundreds to meet them. The mere sight of the flags informed 
every one at once that they were a caravan, but the American flag 
borne aloft by gigantic Asmani, whose face was one vast smile on this 
day, rather staggered them at first. However, many of the people who 
now approached them remembered the flag. They had seen it float over 
the American consulate and from the mast of many a ship in the har- 
bor of Zanzibar ; and they were soon welcoming the beautiful flag with 
cries of Bindera Kisuggu!—a white man's flag! Bindera Merikami 
—the American flag!" 

Then the newcomers were surrounded by them; by Wajiji, Wany- 
amwezi, Wangwana, Warundi, Waguhha, Wamanyuema and Arabs, and 
were almost deafened with shouts of "Yambo, yambo, bana! Yambo, 
hana! Yambo hana!" To all and each of Stanley's men the welcome 
was given. 

They were now about three hundred yards from the village of Ujiji, 
and the crowds were dense about them. Suddenly Stanley heard a 
voice on his right say: 

"Good morning, sir." 

Startled at hearing this greeting in the midst of such a crowd of 
black people, he turns sharply around in search of the man, and sees 
him at his side, with the blackest of faces, but animated and joyous— 



HOW STANLEY FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 



295 



a man dressed in a long white shirt, with a turban of American sheet- 
ing around his woolly head ; and he asks : 

"Who the mischief are you?" 

"I am Susi, the servant of Dr. Livingstone," said he, smiling and 
showing a gleaming row of teeth. 

"What! Is Dr. Li\ingstone here?" 

"Yes, sir." 




ANT BEAE. 



"In this village?" 

"Yes, sir." 

"Are you sure?" 

"Sure, sure, sir. Why, I leave him just now." 

"Good morning, sir," said another voice. 

"Hallo," said Stanley. "Is this another one?" 

"Yes, sir." 

' ' Well , what is your name ? " 



296 HOW STANLEY FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

"My name is Chuma, sir." 

"What, are you Chuma, the friend of Wekotami?" 

"Yes, sir." 

"And is the doctor well I" 

"Not very well, sir." 

"Where has he been so long?" 

"In Manyuema." 

"Now you, Susi, run and tell the doctor I am coming," 

"Yes, sir;" and off he darted like a madman. 

But by this time they were within two himdred yards of the village, 
and the multitude was getting denser, and almost preventing their 
march. Flags and streamers were out; Arabs and Wangwana were 
pushing their way through the natives in order to greet the new-com- 
ers ; for according to their account, the strangers belonged to them. But 
the great wonder of all was: 

"How did you come from Unyanyembe ? " 

Soon Susi came running back, and asked Stanley his name ; he had 
told the doctor that a white man was coming, but the doctor was too 
surprised to believe him; and when asked the white man's name, Susi 
was rather staggered. But during Susi's absence, the news had been 
conveyed to the doctor that it was surely a white man that was com- 
ing, whose guns were jfiring and whose flag could be seen; and the 
great Arab magnates of Ujiji had gathered together before the doc- 
tor's house, and the doctor had come out from his veranda to discuss 
the matter and await his arrival. 

In the meantime, the head of the expedition had halted, and the 
kirangozi was out of the ranks, holding his flag aloft ; and Selim said to 
his master: 

UVINGSTONE FOUND. 

"I see the doctor, sir. Oh, what an old man ! H.e has got a white 
beard. ' ' 

And Stanley— what would he not have given for a bit of friendly 
wilderness, where he might vent his joy in some mad freak, such as 
idiotically biting his hand, turning a somersault, or slashing at trees, 



HOW STANLEY FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 297 

in order to allay those exciting feelings that were well nigh incontroll- 
able. His heart beat fast, but he must not let his face betray his emo- 
tions, lest it shall detract from the dignity of a white man appearing 
under such extraordinary circumstances. 

So he did that which he thought was most dignified. He pushed 
back the crowds, and passing from the rear, walked down a living ave- 
nue of people, until he came in front of the semi-circle of Arabs, in 
the front of which stood the white man with the gray beard. As he 
advanced slowly toward him, he noticed that the great explorer was 
pale, looked wearied, had a gray beard, wore a bluish cap with a faded 
gold band round it, had on a red-sleeved waistcoat, and a pair of gray 
tweed trousers. Stanley would have run to him, only he says, "I was 
a coward in the presence of such a mob— would have embraced him, 
only, he being an Englishman, I did not know how he would receive me ; 
so I did what cowardice and false pride suggested was the best thing 
—walked deliberately to him, took off my hat, and said: 

" *Dr. Livingstone, I presume?' " 

"Yes," said he, with a kind smile, lifting his cap slightly. 

Stanley replaced his hat on his head, and Livingstone put on his 
cap;. and they both grasped hands; and Stanley then said aloud: 

"I thank God, Doctor, that I have been permitted to see you." 

' ' I feel thankful, ' ' replied Livingstone, ' ' that I am here to welcome 
you. ' ' 

Stanley turned to the Arabs, took off his hat to them in response 
to the saluting chorus of "Yamhos" he received, and the doctor in- 
troduced them to him by name. Then oblivious of the crowds, obliv- 
ious of the men who had shared dangers with him, Livingstone and Stan- 
ley turned their faces toward the elder man's tembe. They are seated 
with their backs to the wall. The Arabs take seats on their left. More 
than a thousand natives are in front of them, filling the whole square 
densely, indulging their curiosity, and discussing the fact of two white 
men meeting at Ujiji— one just come from Manyuema, in the west, and 
one from Unyanyembe in the east. 

Conversation began; questions innumerable, yet of the simplest 
kind; then Livingstone began to tell the story of his travels, while Stan- 



298 HOW STANLEY FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

ley listened entranced. The Arabs rose with a delicacy of which the 
white men approved, as if they intuitively knew that they ought to be 
left to themselves. Stanley sent Bombay with them, to give them the 
news they also wanted so much to know about the affairs at Unyany- 
embe; they all had friends there, and it was but natural that they 
should be anxious to hear of what concerned them. 

"No, doctor," was the reply, "read your letters first, which I am 
sure you must be impatient to read." 

"Ah," said he, "I have waited years for letters, and I have been 
taught patience. I can surely afford to wait a few hours longer. No, 
tell me the general news: how is the world getting along!" 

"You probably know much already. Do you know that the Suez 
canal is a fact— is opened, and a regular trade carried on between 
EuroJDe and India through it?" 

"I did not hear about the opening of it. Well, that is grand news ! 
What el^e?" 

Shortly, Stanley found himself acting the part of an annual periodi- 
cal to him. There was no need of any exaggeration— of any penny-a- 
line news, or of any sensationalism. The world had witnessed and ex- 
perienced much during the past few years. The Pacific railroad had 
been completed; Grant had been elected President of the United States; 
Egypt had been flooded with savans ; the Cretan Rebellion had been ter- 
minated ; a Spanish Revolution had driven Isabella from the throne of 
Spain, and a regent had been appointed; General Prim was assas- 
sinated; a Castelar had electrified Europe with his advanced ideas 
upon the liberty of worship; Prussia had humbled Denmark, and an- 
nexed Schleswig-Holotein, and her armies were now around Paris ; the 
"Man of Destiny" was a prisoner at Wilhelmshohe ; the Queen of 
Fashion and the Empress of the French was a fugitive; and the child 
born in the jourple had lost forever the imiDerial crown intended for his 
head; the Napoleon dynasty was extinguished by the Prussians, Bis- 
marck and Von Moltke; and France, the proud empire, was humbled 
to the dust. What could a man have exaggerated of these facts? What 
a budget of news it was to one who had emerged from the depths of 
the primeval forests of Manyuema! 



CHAPTER XXI. 

STANLEY'S TRIUMPHANT MARCH ACROSS THE 
DARK CONTINENT. 

Stanley Explores Same Ground as Roosevelt— Preparations for the Journey— Departure— In- 
terviewed by Lions — A Three Days' Fight— Crocodiles and Hippopotami — Sickness and 

Death in the Camp — A Murderous Outbreak — A Fight and a Fine Uganda and Its 

People — Panic in the Camp — The Terror of Africa — In Dwarf Land — Cataracts and Can- 
nibals—The Congo— Struggling On— Victoria and Albert Nyanza. 

WHEN Stanley set out to find the outlet of Lake Tanganyika 
and. the sources of the Nile and to explore the then unknown 
western half of the African continent hardly anyone realized 
the wonderful resources of that rich and undeveloped country. 

His equipment included guns, ammunition, ropes, saddles, medical 
stores, provisions, gifts for native chiefs, scientific instruments, sta- 
tionery, etc., pontoons and boats. He was accompanied by three young 
stalwart English boatmen, two magnificent mastiffs, a retriever, a bull- 
dog and a bull-terrier. When they left Zanzibar (in November, 1874) 
the party were 356 in number, including 36 women and 10 boys, the 
line being nearly half a mile in length. Their first march through 
Ugogo was a progress in a country of starvation, for the improvident 
savage natives had no provisions and on one occasion they were re- 
duced to two eupfuls of oatmeal mush for each person. 

SICKNESS AND HUNGER. 

They were much troubled by sickness among the caravan; and 
Edward Pocock was dangerously ill. But the discontent of the people 
at the difficulty of obtaining food was such that Stanley judged it 
best to keep moving, if only two or three miles a day. Accordingly, 
those who were in the worst condition were carried in hammocks, and 
they proceeded by easy stages. They reached Chiwyu January 18, and 
had just begun to erect grass huts, when the sick European died from 

299 



300 



STANLEY'S TRIUMPHANT MARCH. 



typhus fever. Here they buried hun at the foot of a hoary acacia 
with wide-spreading branches, and the lessened group of Europeans, 
with their army of black attendants, took up their journey westward 




HENBT M. STANLEY. 



the next day. This was by no means the first death in the expedition, 
although it was the first white man. Since leaving Bagamoyo, twenty 
had died, and no less than eighty-nine had deserted. 

Hitherto, in the case of all explorers, the story has rather been one 



STANLEY'S TRIUMPHANT MARCH. 301 

of difficulties resulting from the nature of the country than from the 
hostility of the natives. Mungo Park alone, of the great African ex- 
plorers, met with his death at the hands of Africans. But the story 
of Stanley's journey across the continent is, throughout, a story of bat- 
tle. He had learned forbearance, he tells us, from Livingstone, but this 
is a virtue which savage adversaries seldom appreciate, mistaking it 
for weakness and cowardice. 

While encamped at Vinyata, they received a visit from a great 
magic doctor, who brought them the welcome present of a fine fat ox. 
Repaid about four-fold for it, he came again the next day, bringing 
some milk, and again received a present. 

WAB ABOUT A GLASS OP MILK AND AN ASS. 

Many were the difficulties they encountered often for very trivial 
reasons. One day some of his native helpers had stolen some milk 
from the savage tribe, through whose territory they were journeying, 
and this being considered a sufficient cause for war they suddenly found 
themselves surrounded by a howling mob of bloodthirsty warriors. A 
brisk encounter was sustained for an hour, and then, having driven 
the savages away they returned to camp. But the next day the hostile 
natives gathered again in their front larger than before in numbers 
and still fiercer for fight; the whole neighboring country seemed to 
have been aroused. Stanley and his men were in no mood for fighting. 
They were hungry, exhausted and wretched, and the danger of starva- 
tion or extinction seemed the only end in view. Time and again the 
savages attacked and were driven back but only to return in larger 
number. Stanley himself gives this graphic description of the perilous 
situation of his command: 

"Our position, as strangers in a hostile country, is such that we 
cannot exist as a corporate expedition, unless we resist with all our 
might and skill, in order to terminate hostilities and secure access to 
the western country. We therefore wait until they advance upon our 
camp, and drive them back from its vicinity as we did the day before. 
In half an hour our people are back, and organized into four de- 
tachments of ten men each under their respective chiefs, two more de- 



302 STANLEY'S TRIUMPHANT MARCH. 

tachments of ten men each held in reserve, and one other, of ten also, de- 
tailed for the defense of the camp. They are instructed to proceed in 
skirmishing order in different directions through the hostile country, 
and to drive the inhabitants out wherever they find them lodged, to a 
distance of five miles east and north, certain rocky hills, the rendezvous 
of the foe, being pointed out as the place where they must converge. 
Messengers are sent with each detachment to bring back information. 

"The left detachment, was thrown into disorder, and were killed 
to a man, except the messenger who brought us the news, imploring 
for the reserve as the enemy were now concentrated on the second 
detachment. Manwa S^ra was dispatched with fifteen men, and ar- 
rived at the scene only in time to save eight out of the second detach- 
ment. The third plunged boldly on, but lost six of its number; the 
fourth behaved prudently and well, and as fast as each inclosed village 
was taken set it on fire. But ten other men dispatched to the scene 
retrieved what the third had lost, and strengthened Safeni. 

"Our losses in this day's proceedings were twenty-one soldiers and 
one messenger killed, and three wounded. 

' ' On the morning of the 25th we waited until 9 A. M., again hoping 
that the Wanyaturu would see the impolicy of renewing the fight ; but 
we were disappointed, for they appeared again, and apparently as 
numerous as ever. After some severe volleys we drove them off again 
on the third day, but upon the return of the Wangwana, instead of 
dividing them into detachments, I instructed them to proceed in a 
compact body. Some of the porters volunteered to take the place of 
the soldiers who perished the previous day, and we were therefore 
able to show still a formidable front. All the villages in our neighbor- 
hood being first consumed, they continued their march, and finally at- 
tacked the rocky hill, which the Wanyaturu had adopted as a strong- 
hold, and drove them flying precipitately into the neighboring country, 
where they did not follow them. 

"We knew now that we should not be disturbed. * * * Our losses 
in Ituru were twenty-four killed and four wounded, and as we had 
twenty-five men on the sick-list, it may be imagined that to replace 
these fifty-three men great sacrifices were necessary, and much, in- 



STANLEY'S TRIUMPHANT MARCH. 



30:] 




304 STANLEY'S TRIUMPHANT MARCH. 

genuity had to be exercised. Twelve loads were accordingly placed 
on the asses, and ten chiefs were detailed to carry baggage until we 
should arrive in Usukuma. Much miscellaneous property was burned, 
and on the morning of the 26th, just before day-break, we resumed our 
interrupted journey." 

Usiha proved much more hospitable, and they were not only kindly 
welcomed, but were able to procure the food which they needed so 
badly. Here, however, they were once in danger from the braying of an 
ass. 

"When in sight of their conical cotes, we dispatched one of our 
native guides to warn the natives that a caravan of Wangwana was 
approaching, and to bear messages of peace and good will. But in 
his absence, one of the Kinyamwezi asses set up a terrific braying, 
which nearly created serious trouble. It appears that on one of his 
former raids the terrible Mirambo possessed a Kinyamwezi ass which 
also brayed, and like the geese of the Koman Capitol, betrayed the 
foe. Hence the natives insisted, despite the energetic denial of our 
guide, that this ass must also belong to Mirambo, and for a short period 
he was in a perilous state. They seized and bound him, and would 
probably have dispatched him had not the village scouts returned laugh- 
ing heartily at the fright the vicious ass had caused." 

VICTOKIA NYANZA. 

Two days after these thrilling incidents they reached the shores of 
Victoria Nyanza. Before them lay a vast sheet of water, which a daz- 
zling sun transformed into silver and which stretched away across to a 
boundary of dark blue hills and mountains. 

Crowds of savages soon surrounded them from all sides. They 
informed him that the lake was so large that it would take eight years 
to trace its shores, and that there were a people dwelling on its 
shores who were gifted with tails, another a tribe of cannibals, who 
preferred human flesh to all kinds of meat. It was almost impossible 
to get the superstitious natives to follow him out on the lake. Only 
used to paddling they were afraid of the sails and fled when they were 
hoisted. Finally he selected two men and with this crew set sail upon 



STANLEY'S TRIUMPHANT MARCH. 



305 



the big waters. We cannot relate all the adventures he met on this 
historic circumnavigation. Eeaching the northeastern part of the lake 
they met a large canoe, propelled by forty paddlers, who when they 
came within fifty yards seizing their long tufted lances and shields 
began to sway them menacingly. 




nSHING AT STANLEY FALLS. 



' ' They edged toward us a little nearer, ' ' says Stanley, ' ' and ended 
by ranging their long canoe alongside of our boat. Our tame, mild 
manners were in striking contrast to their bullying, overbearing and 
insolent demeanor. The paddlers, half of whom were intoxicated, laid 
their hands with familiar freedom upon everything. We still smiled, 
and were as mild and placable as though anger and resentment could 



306 STANLEY'S TRIUMPHANT MARCH. 

never enter our hearts. We were so courteous, indeed, that we per- 
mitted them to handle our persons with a degree of freedom which 
appeared to them unaccountable— unless we were so timid that we 
feared to give offense. If we had been so many sheep, we could not 
have borne a milder or more innocent aspect. Our bold friends, reeling 
and jostling one another in their eagerness to offend, seized their spears 
and shields, and began to chant in bacchanalian tones a song that 
was tipsily discordant. Some seized their slings and flung stones to 
a great distance, whicTi we applauded. Then one of them, under the 
influence of wine, and spirits elated by the chant, waxed bolder, and 
looked as though he would aim at myself, seated observant but mute in 
the stern of my boat. I made a motion with my hand as though dep- 
recating such an action. The sooty villain seemed to become at once 
animated by an hysteric passion, and whirled his stone over my head, 
a loud drunken cheer applauding his boldness. 

"Perceiving that they were becoming wanton through our appar- 
ently mild demeanor, I seized my revolver and fired rapidly into the 
water, in the direction the stone had been flung, and the effect was pain- 
fully ludicrous. The bold, insolent bacchanals had at the first shot 
sprung overboard, and w^re swimming for dear life to Ngevi, leaving 
their canoe in our hands. 'Friends, come back, come back; why this 
fear?' cried out our interpreter; *we simply wished to show you that 
we had weapons as well as yourselves. Come, take your canoe ; see, we 
push it away for you to seize it.' "We eventually won them back with 
smiles. We spoke to them as sweetly as before. The natives were more 
respectful in their demeanor. They laughed, cried out admiringly; 
imitated the pistol shot; 'Boom, boom, boom,' they shouted. They 
then presented me with a bunch of bananas. We became enthusiastic 
admirers of each other." 

After having met many warlike tribes and successfully escaped 
their traps they finally arrived at Usavara, the hunting village of Ka- 
baka, where 

STANLEY MET THE MIGHTIEST MAN OP EQUATORIAL AFEICA. 

But he himself must tell of his reception: 

"When about two miles from Usavara, we saw what we estimated 



STANLEY'S TRIUMPHANT MARCH. 



307 



to be thousands of people arranging themselves in order on gently 
rising ground. When about a mile from the shore, Magassa gave the 
order to signal our advance with fire-arms, and was at once obeyed by 
his dozen musketeers. Half a mile off I saw that the people on the 
shore bad formed themselves into two dense lines, at the ends of which 




A CONCEBT. 



stood several finely dressed men, arrayed in crimson and black and 
snowy white. As we neared the beach, volleys of musketry burst out 
from the long lines. Magassa's canoes steered outward to right and 
left, while two or three hundred heavily loaded guns announced to 
all around that the white man, of whom Mtesa's mother had dreamed, 
had landed. Numerous kettles and bass drums sounded a noisy wel- 
come, and flags, banners and bannerets waved, and the people gave a 
great shout. Very much amazed at all this ceremonious and pompous 
greeting, I strode up toward the great standard, near which stood a 
short young man, dressed in a crimson robe which covered an im- 



308 STANLEY'S TRIUMPHANT MARCH. 

maculately white dress of bleached cotton, before whom Magassa, who 
had hurried ashore, kneeled reverently, and turning to me begged me 
to understand that this short young man was the Katekiro. Not know- 
ing very well who the Katekiro was, I only bowed, which, strange to 
saj, was imitated by him, only that his bow was far more profound and 
stately than mine. I was perplexed, confused, embarrassed, and I 
believed I blushed inwardly at all this regal reception, though I hope 
I did not betray my embarrassment. 

"A dozen well-dressed people now came forward, and grasping my 
hand declared in the Swahili langniage that I was welcome to Uganda. 
The Katekiro motioned with his head, and amid a perfect concourse 
of beaten drums, which drowned all conversation, we walked side by 
side, and followed by curious thousands, to a court-yard, and a circle 
of grass-thatched huts surrounding a larger house, which I was told 
were my quarters. 

' ' The Katekiro and several of the chiefs accompanied me to my new 
hu<^, and a very sociable conversation took place. There was present 
a native of Zanzibar, named Tori, whom I shortly discovered to be 
chief drummer, engineer, and general jaek-of-all-trades for the Kabaka. 
From this clever, ingenious man I obtained the information that the 
Katekiro was the prime minister, or the Kabaka 's deputy. * * * "VVa- 
ganda, as I found subsequently, were not in the habit of remaining in- 
curious before a stranger. Hosts of questions were fired off at me 
about my health, my journey and its aim, Zanzibar, Europe and its 
people, the seas and the heavens, sun, moon, and stars, angels and 
devils, doctors, priests, and craftsmen in general; in fact, as the rep- 
resentative of nations who 'know everything,' I was subjected to a 
most searching examination, and in one hour and ten minutes it was 
declared unanimously that I had 'passed.' Forthwith after the ac- 
clamation, the stately bearing became merged into a more friendly one, 
and long, thin, nervous black hands were pushed into mine enthusias- 
tically, from which I gathered that they applauded me as if I had won 
the honors of a senior wrangler. Some proceeded direct to the Kabaka 
and informed him that the white man was a genius, knew everything, 
and was remarkably polite and sociable; and the' Kabaka was said to 



STANLEY'S TRIUMPHANT MARCH. 



809 



have 'rubbea his hands as though he had just come into possession 
of a treasure.' " 

After this searching examination was concluded, and reported to 
Mtesa, that chief dispatched refreshments for his guest. "These few 
things," as they were styled in the message accompanying them, were 
fourteen fat oxen, sixteen goats and sheep, a hundred bunches of 




KOYAL HOSPITALITIES. 



bananas, three dozen fowls, four wooden jars of milk, four baskets of 
sweet potatoes, fifty ears of green Indian corn, a basket of rice, twenty 
fresh eggs, and ten pots or maramba wine. * When the traveler had 
eaten and was satisfied, the Kabaka would send for him. 
^ Promptly at the appointed hour, two pages came to summon the 
traveler to the presence of the foremost man of Central Africa. 

"Forthwith we issued from our courtyard, five of the boat's crew 



310 STANLEY'S TRIUMPHANT MARCH. 

on each side of me armed with Snider rifles. We reach a short broad 
street, at the end of which is a hut. Here the Kabaka is seated with 
a number of chiefs, Wakungu [generals] and Watongeleh [colonels] 
ranked from the throne in two opposing kneeling or seated lines, the ends 
being closed in by drummers, guards, executioners, pages, etc., etc. As 
we approached the nearest group, it opened, and the drummers beat 
mighty sounds, Tori's drumming being conspicuous from its sharper 
beat. The foremost man of Equatorial Africa rises and advances, 
and all the kneeling and seated lines rise— generals, colonels, chiefs, 
cooks, butlers, pages, executioners, etc., etc. 

"The Kabaka, a tall, clean-faced, large-eyed, nervous-looking, thin 
man, clad in a tarbush, black robe, with a white shirt belted with gold, 
shook my hands warmly and impressively, and bowing not ungrace- 
fully, invited me to be seated on an iron stool. I waited for him to show 
the example, and then I and all the others seated ourselves. 

"He first took a deliberate survey of me, which I returned with 
interest, for he was as interesting to me as I was to him. His im- 
pression of me was that I was younger than Speke, not so tall, but better 
dressed. This I gathered from his criticisms as confided to his chiefs 
and favoi'ites. 

"My impression of him was that he and I would become better 
acquainted, that I should make a convert of him, and make him use- 
ful to Africa." 

It will be remembered that Speke 's description of this potentate 
was not a very favorable one— vain and heartless, a wholesale tyrant 
and murderer, delighting in fat women. It had been his custom, in 
receiving a visitor with honors, to have his executioners strike off the 
heads of several slaves or subjects on the spot. Stanley found him 
intelligent, and well worthy the heartiest sympathies that Europe had 
to give him. What was the reason for this change? Stanley answers 
in his journal, in the entry written at this very time : 

"I see that Mtesa is a powerful emperor, with great influence over 
his neighbors. • • • l have witnessed with astonishment such 
order and law as is obtainable in semi-civilized countries. All this is 
the result of a poor Muslim's labor; his name is Muley bin Salim, He 



STANLEY'S TRIUMPHANT MARCH. 



311 



it was who first began teaching here the doctrines of Islam. False and 
contemptible as these doctrines are, they are preferable to the ruthless 
instincts of a" savage despot, whom Speke and Grant left wallowing in 
the blood of women, and I honor the memory of Muley bin Salim 
—Muslim and slave trader though he be— the poor priest who had 
wrought this happy change. With a strong desire to improve still more 
the character of Mtesa, I shall begin building on the foundation stones 
laid by Muley bin Salim. I shall destroy his belief in Islam, and teach 
the doctrines of Jesus of Nazareth." 





WOMEN AT MTESA'S COURT. 



Two days after his arrival at Usavara, Mtesa distinguished "Stam- 
lee" by holding what he termed a review of his fleet, forty canoes, 
holding some twelve hundred men. "The captain of each canoe was 
dressed in a white cotton shirt and a cloth head-cover, neatly folded 
turban fashion, while the admiral wore over his shirt a crimson jacket 
pi'ofusely decorated with gold braid, and on his head the red fez of 
Zanzibar. Each captain, as he passed us, seized shield and spear, and 
with the bravado of a matador addressing the Judge of the Plaza to 
behold his prowess, went through the performance of defense and 



312 



STANLEY'S TRIUMPHANT MARCH. 




WOMEN BEEAKING COBN. 



attack by water. The admiral won the greatest applause, for he was 
the Hector of the fleet, and his actions, though not remarkably grace- 
ful, were certainly remarkably extravagant. The naval review over, 
Mtesa commanded one of the captains of the canoes to try and dis- 
covei a crocodile or hippopotamus. After fifteen minutes he returned 
with the report that there was a young crocodile asleep on a rock about 
two hundred yards away. 

" 'Now, Stamlee,' said Mtesa, 'show my women how white men can 
shoot.' 

"[For the great chief was attended by a considerable number of 
the women composing his harem.] To represent all the sons of Japhet 
on this occasion was a great responsibility, but I am happy to say 



STANLEY'S TRIUMPHANT MARCH. 313 

that— wbethei' owing to the gracious influence of some unseen divinity 
who has the guardianship of their interests or whether from mere 
luck— I nearly severed the head of the young croc»dile from its body 
at the distance of one hundred yards with a three-ounce ball, an act 
which was accepted as proof that all white men are dead shots." 

Three days later, the court broke up its hunting lodge and returned 
to the capital, Stanley following at a later hour, since it was necessary 
to house his boat from the sun. The road was eight feet wide, through 
jungle and garden and forest and field. We need not linger over the 
description of the beautiful scenery enjoyed during the three hours' 
march before they came in sight of a large cluster of tall, conical grass 
huts, in the center of which rose a spacious, lofty barn-like struc- 
ture. The large building, they were told, was the palace, the hill, 
Rubaga, and the cluster of huts, the imijerial capital! 

The envoy of the two great newspapers had, as we have already 
heard from his own lips, determined to make an effort to convert Mtesa 
to ^Christianity. It was his first missionary work ; for up to the period 
of his first journey into the interior of Africa at least, he had "eared 
for none of these things. ' ' The four months ' intercourse with Living- 
stone, however, close and constant as it was, had wrought a change; 
it was owing to no set effort of the elder man; but the influence of 
his life and character taught Stanley the worth of the religion which 
he professed. On the evening of the day that the traveler had his 
first interview with Mtesa, he wrote in his diary: 

"In this man I see the possible fruition of Livingstone's hopes, 
for with his aid the civilization of Equatorial Africa becomes feasible. 
I remember the ardor and love which anunated Livingstone when he 
spoke of Sekeletu; had he seen Mtesa, his ardor and love for him had 
been tenfold, and his pen and tongue would have been employed in call- 
ing all good men to assist him." 

At every interview between them, the white man had made some 
effort to turn the conversation to the subject of religion; and not in 
vain. Mtesa and his principal chiefs soon became so absorbingly in- 
terested in the story of the Gospel as Stanley gave it to them that 
little of other business was done. Of course only the bare outlines 



314 STANLEY'S TRIUMPHANT MARCH. 

were touched upon— those essential points which are accepted by all, 
and which are as intelligible to the savage and the child as to doctor of 
divinity. 

"I showed the difference in character between Him whom white 
men love and adore, and Mohammed, whom the Arabs revere; how 
Jesus endeavored to teach all mankind that we should love all men, 
excej^ting none; while Mohammed taught his followers that the slay- 




THE IMPERIAL CAPITAL. 



ing of the pagan and unbeliever was an act that merited Paradise. I 
left it to Mtesa and his chiefs to decide which was the worthier char- 
acter. I also sketched in brief the history of religious belief from 
Adam to Mohammed. I had also begun to translate to him the Ten 
Commandments, and Idi, the emperor's writer, trnscribed in Kiganda 
the words of the Law as given to him in choice Swahili by Robert 



STANLEY'S TRIUMPHANT MARCH. 315 

Fer.uzi, one of my boat's crew, and a pupil of the Universities' Mission 
at Zanzibar." 

But Stanley must be looking after the men whom he had left at 
Kagehyi, leaving the completion of his missionary work for the pres- 
ent. Mtesa gave him permission to depart, and ordered Magassa to 
have ready thirty canoes to serve as escort. 

STANLEY LEAVES GREAT MONARCH. FIERCE ENCOUNTER WITH SAVAGES. 

Escorted by Magassa he returned along the western coast of the 
lake, all the time meeting with thrilling adventures. 

"As soon as we had sailed a little distance along the coast," he 
says, "we caught sight of a few figures which broke the even and 
smooth outline of the grassy summit, and heard the well-known melo- 
dious war-cries employed by most of the Central African tribes : ^Hehu-a 
hehu u-u-u!' loud, long-drawn, and ringing. 

"The figures increased in number, and fresh voices joined in the 
defiant and alarming note. Still, hungry wretches as we were, en- 
vironed by difficulties of all kinds, just beginning to feel warm after 
the cold and wet of the night before, with famine gnawing at our vitals, 
leagues upon leagues of sea between us and our friends at Usukuma, 
and nothing eatable in our boat, we were obliged to risk something 
reminding ourselves that 'there are no circumstances so desperate 
which Providence may not relieve.' 

"At 9 A. M. we discovered a cove near the southeast end of the 
long island, and pulled slowly into it. Immediately the natives rushed 
down the slopes, shouting war-cries and uttering fierce ejaculations. 

"The natives consulted a little while, and several— now smiling 
pleasantly themselves, advanced leisurely into the water until they 
touched the boat's prow. They stood a few seconds talking sweetly, 
when suddenly with a. rush they ran the boat ashore, and then all the 
others, seizing hawser and gunwale, dragged her about twenty yards 
over the rocky beach high and dry, leaving us almost stupefied with 
astonishment ! 

"Then ensued a scene which beggars description. Pandemonium- 
all its devils armed, raged around us. A forest of spears were levelled ; 
thirty or forty bows were drawn taut ; as many barbed arrows seemed 



316 



STANLEY'S TRIUMPHANT MARCH. 



already on the wing; thick, knotty clubs waved above our heads; two 
hundred screaming black demons jostled with each other, and struggled 
for room to vent their fury, or for an opportunity to deliver one crush- 
ing blow or thrust at us. 

"In the meantime, as soon as the first symptoms of this manifesta- 
tion of violence had been observed, I had sprung to my feet, each 
hand armed with a loaded self-cocking revolver, to kill and be killed. 




KING munza's house. 



But the apparent hopelessness of inflicting much injury upon such a 
large crowd restrained me, and Safeni turned to me, almost cowed to 
dumbness by the loud fury around us, and pleaded with me to be pa- 
tient. I complied, seeing that I should get no aid from my crew ; but. 
while bitterly blaming myself for having yielded— against my instincts 
—to placing myself in the power of such savages, I vowed that if I 
escaped this once, my own judgment should guide my actions for 
the future. 

"I assumed a resigned air, though I still retained my revolvers. 
My crew also bore the first outburst of the tempest of shrieking rage 



STANLEY'S TRIUMPHANT MARCH. 317 

which assailed them with almost sublime imperturbability. Safeni 
crossed his arms with the meekness of a saint. Baraka held his hands 
palms outward, asking with serene benignity: 

" 'What, my friends, ails you? Do you fear emjoty hands and 
smiling people like us? We are friends, we come as friends to buy 
food, two or throe bananas, a few mouthfuls of grain or potatoes, or 
muhogo (cassava), and, if you will jDermit it, we will depart as friends.' 

"Our demeanor had a great effect. The riot and noise seemed to 
be subsiding, when some fifty newcomers rekindled the smouldering 
fury. Again the forest of spears swayed on the launch, again the 
knotty clubs were whirled aloft, again the bows were drawn, and again 
the barbed arrows seemed flying. Safeni received a push which sent 
him tumbling, little Kirango received a blow on the head with a spear- 
staff, Saramba gave a cry as a club descended on his back. 

"I sprang up this time to remonstrate, with the two revolvers in 
my left hand. I addressed myself to an elder, who seemed to be re- 
straining the people from proceeding too far. I showed him beads, 
cloth, wire, and invoked the names of Mtesa, and Antari their king. 

"The sight of the heaps of beads and cloth I exposed awakened, 
however, the more deliberate passions of selfishness and greed in each 
heart. An attempt at massacre, they began to argue, would certainly 
entail the loss of some of themselves. 'Guns might be seized and han- 
dled with terrible effect even by dying men, and who knows what those 
little iron things in the white man's hands are'?' they seemed to be 
asking themselves. The elder, whatever he thought, responded with an 
affectation of indignation, raised his stick, and to right and left of 
him drove back the demoniac crew. Other prominent men now as- 
sisted this elder, whom we subsequently discovered to be Shekka, the 
king of Bumbireh. 

"Shekka, then, having thus bestirred himself, beckoned to half a 
dozen men and walked away a few yards behind the mass. It was 
the 'shauri,' dear to a free and independent African's heart, that was 
about to be held. Half the crowd followed the king and his council, 
while the other half remained to indulge their violent, vituperativa 
tongues on us, and to continually menace us with either club or spear. 



318 STANLEY'S TRIUMPHANT MARCH. 

An audacious party came round the stern of the boat and, with super- 
latively hideous gestures, affronted me; one of them even gave a tug 
at my hair; thinking it was a wig. I revenged myself by seizing his 
hand, and suddenly bending it back, almost dislocated it, causing 
him to howl with pain. His comrades swayed their lances, but I smil-. 
ingly looked at them, for all idea of self-preservation had now almost 
fled. 

"The issue had surely arrived. There had been just one brief 
moment of agony when i reflected how unlovely death appears in 
such guise as that in which it then threatened me. What would my 
people think as they anxiously awaited the never-returning master? 
What would Pocoek and Barker say when they heard of the tragedy 
of Bumbireh? And my friends in America and Europe! Tut, it is 
only a brief moment of pain, and then what can the ferocious dogs 
do more? It is a consolation that if anything it will be short, sharp, 
sudden— a gasp, and then a silence— forever and forever T And after 
that, I was ready for the fight and for death. 

DO YOUR WORST. 

"'Now, my black friends, do your worst; anytmng you choose; 
I am ready.' 

"A messenger from the king and council arrives, and beckons Sa- 
feni. I said to him : ' Safeni, use your wit.' 

" 'Please God, master,' he replied." 

The African, like all savages, is possessed by a curiosity easily 
aroused, and the natives followed Safeni, observing his every motion 
as he endeavored to make himself understood. As Mr. Stanley ob- 
serves, Safeni proved himself "a born diplomat." He used all the 
arts of the pantomime. His face was sweet and smiling; his hands 
made most eloquent gestures; he exhibited all the graces and elo- 
quence of the advocate, pleading before the jury for a client in danger 
for his life. In a short time he came back to his party radiant with 
hope, declaring it was all right, that they were safe; but that the 
savages insisted they should stay with them until they should hold 
their sliauri, when they would sell food to the starving party. But 



STANLEY'S TRIUMPHANT MARCH. 



319 



even as he was relating this, several men came forward and suddenly 
grabbed all the oars. Safeni was about to resist, but Stanley called 
out: 

' ' ' Let them go, Safeni ! ' 

"A loud cheer greeted the seizure of the oars. I became convinced 
now that this one little act would lead to others ; for man is the same 




AFRICAN VILLAGE. 



all over the world. Set a beggar on horseback and he will ride to the 
devil; give a slave an inch, and he will take an ell; if a man submit 
once, he must be prepared to submit again." 

It was truly a desperate case, yet Stanley and his men could do 
nothing. The shmiri proceeded; a messenger came demanding gifts; 
they were handed over without a word of protest. Noon came; and 
the savages, sure of their prey, withdrew to their villages for food and 



320 STANLEY'S TRIUMPHANT MARCH. 

drink; for, as the poet asks, "Where is the man who can live without 
dining?" The half-starved men in the boat were visited by the women, 
who consoled them with the assurance of being killed very soon; if, 
however, they could induce Shekka to make blood-brotherhood or eat 
honey with one of them, peace would ensue and they would be safe. 

"About 3 P. M. we heard a number of drums beaten. Safeni was 
told that if the natives collected again he must endeavor to induce 
Shekka with gifts to go through the process of blood-brotherhood. 

"A long line of natives in full war costume appeared on the crest 
of the terrace, on which the banana grove and the village of Kajurri 
stood. Their faces were smeared with black and white pigments. 
Almost all of them bore the peculiar shields of Usongora. Their ac- 
tions were such as the dullest-witted of us"recognized as indicating hos- 
tilities. Even Safeni and Baraka were astounded, and their first words 
were : 

" 'Prepare, master. Truly, this is trouble.' 

" 'Never mind me,' I replied; 'I have been ready these three hours. 
Are you ready, your guns and revolvers loaded, and your ears open 
this time?' 

' ' ' We are, ' they all firmly answered. 

" 'Don't be afraid; be quite cool. We will itry, while they are col- 
lecting together, the women's suggestion. Go frankly and smiling, 
Safeni, up to Shekka, on the top of that hill, and offer him these three 
fundo of beads, and ask him to exchange blood with you.' 

"Safeni proceeded readily on his errand, for there was no danger 
to him bodily while we were within a hundred and fifty yards, and 
their full number as yet unprepared. For ten minutes he conversed 
with them, while the drums kept beating, and numbers of men painted 
for war were increasing Shelvka's force. Some of them entertained us 
by demonstrating with their spears how they fought; others whirled 
their clubs like tipsy Irishmen at Donnybrook fair. Their gestures 
were wild, their voices were shrill and fierce, they were kindling them- 
selves into a fighting fever. 

"Safeni returned. Shekka had refused the pledge of peace. The na- 
tives now mustered over three hundred. Presently fifty bold fellows 



STANLEY'S TRIUMPHANT MARCH. 




■XECUTION or A UUTINEEE IN STAPO^T's CAMP. 



322 STANLEY'S TRIUMPHANT MARCH. 

came rushing down, uttering a shrill cry. Without hesitation they came 
straight to the boat, and hissing something to us, seized our kiganda 
drum. It was such a small affair, we did not resist; still the manner 
in which it was taken completely undeceived us, if any small hope of 
peace remained. Loud applause greeted the act of gallantry. 

"Then two men came down toward us, and began to drive some 
cows away that were grazing between us and the men on the hill. Sa- 
feni asked of one of them : 

" 'Why do you do that?' -- 

" 'Because we are going to begin fighting presently, and if you are 
men, you may begin to prepare yourselves, ' he said, scornfully. 

" 'Thanks, my bold friend,' I muttered to myself; 'those are the 
truest words we have heard today.' 

' ' The two men were retiring up the hill. 

" 'Here, Safeni,' I said, 'take these two fine red cloths in your 
hand; walk slowly up after them a little way, and the minute you 
hear my voice run back; and you, my boys, this is for life and death, 
mind ; range yourselves on each side of the boat, lay your hands on it 
carelessly, but with a firm grip; and when I give the word, push it 
with the force of a hundred men down the hill into the water. Are you 
all ready, and do you think you can do it? Otherwise we might as well 
begin fighting where we are.' 

" 'Yes, Inshallah, master,' they cried out with one voice. 

" 'Go, Safeni!' 

"I waited until he had walked fifty yards away, and saw that he 
acted precisely as I had instructed him. 

" 'Push, my boys! Push for your lives!' 

"The crew bent their heads and strained their arms. The boat be- 
gan to move, and there was a hissing, grinding noise below me. I 
seized my double-barreled elephant rifle and shouted : ' Safeni ! Safeni ! 
Return!' 

"The natives were quick-eyed. They saw the boat moving and 
with ond accord they swept down the hill uttering the most fearful 
cries. My boat was at the water's edge. 

" 'Shoot her into the lake, my men; never mind the water!' 



STANLEY'S TRIUMPHANT MARCH. 



323 



"And clear of all obstructions she darted out upon the lake. Safeni 
stood for an instant on the water's edge, with the cloths in his hand. 
The foremost of a crowd of natives was about twenty yards from 
him. He raised his spear and balanced himself, 

" 'Spring into the water, man, head first!' I cried. 

"The balanced spear was about to fly, and another man was prepar- 
ing his weapon for a deadly cast, when I raised my gun and the bullet 
ploughed through him and through the second. The bowmen halted 
and drew their bows. I sent two charges of duck-shot into their midst 




HUNTING HIPPOPOTAMI. 



with terrible effect. The natives retreated from the beach on which 
the boat had lately lain. 

"Having checked the natives, I assisted one of my men into the 
boat, and ordered him to lend a hand to the others, while I reloaded 
my big guns, keeping my eyes on the natives. There was a point about 
a hundred yards in length on the east, which sheltered the cove. Some 
of the natives made a rush for this, but my guns commanded the 
exposed position, and they were obliged to retire. 

"The crew seized their rifles, but I told them to leave them alone, 
and to tear the bottom-board out of the boat and use them as paddles ; 
for there were two hippopotami advancing on us open-mouthed, and 



324 STANLEY'S TRIUMPHANT MARCH. 

it seemed as if we were to be crushed in the water after such a narrow 
escape from the ferocious people ashore. I permitted one of the hippos 
to approach within ten yards, and, aiming between his eyes, perforated 
his skull with a three-ounce ball, and the second received such a wound 
that we were not molested by him. 

"Meanwhile, the savages, baffled and furious at seeing their prey 
escape, had rushed, after a short consultation, to man two canoes that 
were drawn up on the beach at the northwest corner of the cove. 
Twice I dropped men as they were endeavoring to launch the boats; 
but they persisted, and finally launching them, pursued us vigorously. 
Two other canoes were seen coming down the coast from the eastern 
side of the island. Unable to escape, we stopped after he had got out 
of the cove and waited for them. 

"My elephant rifle was loaded with explosive balls for this oc- 
casion. Four shots killed five men and sank two of the canoes. The two 
others retired to assist their friends out of the water. They attempted 
nothing further, but some of those on shore had managed to reach the 
point, and as we resumed our paddles, we heard a voice cry out: 

" 'Go and die in the Nyanza!' 

"And saw them shoot their arrows, which fell harmlessly a few 
yards behind us. We were saved!" 

THE VOYAGE CONTINUED. 

It was five o'clock in the evening; they had had no food all day, and 
had only four bananas in the boat for twelve hungry men. The weak 
boards which they had for paddles did not answer the purpose very 
well, and in the dead calm which succeeded a gentle breeze, they were 
able to make only three-quarters of a mile an hour. A gale came up, 
and too weak to paddle any more they gave themselves up to the fury 
of the winds. It sank at last, and ordering that one of the thwarts 
should be chopped up, Stanley made coffee with which to refresh his 
half-starved companions. 

They had had but little food before leaving Alice Island, on April 
27; and this coffee, with the four bananas, was all that passed their 
lips until the afternoon of the 30th. They landed, then, on an unin- 



STANLEY'S TRIUMPHANT MARCH. 325 

habited island ; the leader shot a brace of large fat ducks ; two of the 
men found some bananas, and two others found some luscious ber- 
ries. 

Continuing their voyage, they lauded at the cove of Wiru May 4, 
and bought some food of the natives. Two days later, after a storm 
that brought to mind the parting words of the natives of Bumbireh, 
they reached Eagehyi, and were heartily welcomed by the others. There 
was but one white man among the shore party, and Stanley inquired 
where Frederick Barker was, and why he did not come to meet them. 

"Because," answered Frank Pocock, his face clouding with the 
recollection of loss, "he died twelve days ago, and he lies there." 

As he spoke, he pointed to a low mound of earth by the lake. Thus 
two of the four white men who had set out from Zanzibar had died on 
the way; and the journey was not half done. 

It was Stanley's intention to return to Uganda with his full party, 
but the opposition of a chief whose territory lay between Kagehyi and 
Mtesa's country made it unpossible to make the journey by land, as he 
wished to do. He therefore decided to make it by water, as before; but 
had much difficulty in obtaining canoes for the purpose. At last, after 
a personal visit to Lukongeh, the chief of Ukerewe, he succeeded in 
getting twenty-three. These were very old, and he at once set his 
men to work to repair them, while he began negotiations for provisions. 
The vessels were for the transportation of one hundred and fifty men, 
women and children; twelve thousand pounds of grain, five hundred 
poimds of rice, a hundred loads of beads, cloth and wire, and thirty 
cases of ammunition. Most of the last-named article was on the Lady 
Alice. The flotilla sailed at 9 A. M. on June 20; but before they 
reached the Miandereh Islands that night, five canoes had sunk, with 
five guns, one case of ammunition, and twelve hundred pounds of grain. 
Fortunately, all the people were saved; but it was only by the most 
strenuous efforts on the part of Stanley and his men. It is in con- 
nection with their brave behavior this night that we first hear of the two 
brothers, Uledi and Shumari, whose names were afterward to be more 
prominent in the story. The canoes were thoroughly inspected the next 



326 



STANLEY'S TRIUMPHANT MARCH. 



day, and the work of repairing them was not shirked as it had been 
before starting from Kagehyi. 

Leaving a garrison of forty-four men at Kefuge Island, which they 
reached June 24, Stanley returned to Kagehyi for the last time; and 
rejoined the other party July 11. Leaving a garrison at Miandereh 
again for his canoes were not numerous enough to transport the 
whole party at once) he went on his way toward Uganda. 




TIPPOO TIB. 



He must of course pass Bumbireh on his way thither; and it was 
necessary to give the chief of that island a lesson. The king of Iroba 
was captured; and being a neighbor of the chief of Bumbireh, was 
held as a hostage until his subjects had captured Shekka. Fortunately, 
they were about this time reinforced by a number of men whom Mtesa 
had dispatched to hunt up Stanley; so that the strength of the party 
now encamped on Mahyiga Island was four hundred and seventy men. 
This was the condition of affairs when messengers came from Antari, 
King of Ihangiro, the superior of Shekka, demanding the release of that 



STANLEY'S TRIUMPHANT MARCH. 327 

chief. It was promised that when they should be released, Antari's peo- 
ple would sell food to the travelers. But this was a mere pretext by 
which Antari sought to gain the confidence of Stanley, preparatory to a 
trial of strength ; and when some of the Waganda, deceived by the appar- 
ent friendliness, ventured to Bumbireh, they were attacked and eight of 
them badly wounded, six dying from the effects of their injuries after 
the arrival of the party in Uganda. 

ANOTHER BATTLE WITH SAVAGES. 

It was a question in Stanley's mind what course should be pursued. 
Had it been a purely militaiy expedition there would of course have 
been no doubt; but for some time he hesitated about striking a blow 
except in direct self-defense. Finally, however, he decided that grat- 
itude to Mtesa and his Waganda demanded that blood should atone for 
blood. More than this, it was dangerous to leave such a deed un- 
avenged; for the savage cannot understand forbearance, which to him 
seems cowardice; patience, which is to him evidence of effeminacy. 
As he could not see any way to avoid the conflict, he determined to 
meet them on their own island, and by one decisive stroke break this 
overweening savage spirit. But Stanley's own words must tell of the 
just punishment inflicted. 

"We steered straight towards the more exposed hill-slopes. The 
savages, imagining that we were about to effect a landing there, hur- 
ried from their coverts, between two and three thousand in number. 
I examined the shores carefully, to see if I could discover the canoes 
which had conveyed this great number of warriors from the main- 
land. Meanwhile we pulled slowly, to afford them time to arrange 
themselves. 

"Arrived within a hundred yards of the land, we anchored in line, 
the stone anchors being dropped from midships that the broadsides 
might front the shore. I told Lukanjah of Ukerewe to ask the men of 
Bumbireh if they would make peace, whether we should be friends, 
or whether we should fight. 

" 'Nangu, nangu, nangu!' (No, no, no!) they answered loudly, 
while they flourished spears and shields. 

" 'Will they not do anything to save Shekkaf 



t3S 



STANLEY'S TRIUMPHANT MARCH. 



" 'Nangu, nangu! Keep Shekka; he is nobody. We have another 
M'kama' (king). 

" 'Will they do nothing to save Antari's son?' [who also was 
held as a hostage,] 




SUCKING THE POISON FBOM A WOUND RECEIVED FBOU A POISONED ABBOW. 



" ^ Nangu, nangu. Antari has many sons. We will do nothing but 
fight. If you had not come here, we should have come to you.' 



STANLEY'S TRIUMPHANT MARCH. 120 

" 'You will be sorry for it afterward.' 

" 'Hull!' incredulously; 'we are ready; come on.' 

Further parley was useless; so each man having taken aim was 
directed to fire into a group of fifty or thereabouts. The result was 
several killed and wounded. The savages, perceiving the disastrous 
effect of our fire on a compact body, scattered, and came bounding down 
to the water's edge, some of the boldest advancing until they were hip- 
deep in water; others, more cautious, sought the shelter of the cane- 
grass, whence they discharged many sheaves of arrows, all of which fell 
short of us. 

"We then moved to within fifty yards of the shore, to fire at close 
quarters, and each man was permitted to exercise himself as he best 
could. The savages gallantly held the water-line for an hour, and slung 
their stones with better effect than they shot their arrows. The spirit 
which animated them proved what they might bad done had they suc- 
ceeded in effecting a landing at Mahyiga by night, but here, however, 
the spear, with which they generally fight, was quite useless. 

"Perceiving that their spirit was abating, we drew the canoes to- 
gether, and made a feint as though we were about to rush forward 
by hundreds with their spears on the launch. The canoes were then 
suddenly halted, and a volley was fired into the spearmen, which quite 
crushed their courage, causing them to retreat up the hill far away from 
the scene. Our work of chastisement was complete. 

"The Waganda spearmen, two hundred and thirty strong, who had 
been, up to this time, only interested spectators, now clamored loudly 
to be permitted to land, and to complete the work of vengeance. 
]\rKwanga was fierce in his demands; the Wangwana seconded the 
Waganda, and in their hot ardor several of the canoes rushed on the 
cohere; but as this extremity was not my object, I resisted them; and 
when, despite my refusal, they persisted in their attempts to land, 
I threatened to fire on the first man, Mgwana or Mganda, who set foot 
on the shore; and this threat restored order." 

The way being thus cleared, they proceeded on their journey, and 
reached Dumo, in Uganda, a week later (August 12, 1875). Here they 
learned that Mtesa was making preparations for a war against the 



330 STANLEY'S TRIUMPHANT MARCH. 

Wavuma. Before they reached Ntewi, he had already marched against 
Usoga. Two courses were open to Stanley; either he could attempt 
the journey to the Albert Nyanza unaided, or he could proceed to 
Mtesa's camp, and thence prosecute the journey. He decided upon the 
latter course, believing that the delay would be made up by the shorter 
route which Mtesa's help would enable him to take. 

THE EMPEROB OF UGANDA. 

He found the emperor of Uganda and his warlike court encamped 
about the Eipon Falls. Mtesa received him with gi-eat cordiality, but 
infoi'med him that it was not customary for strangers to proceed on 
their journey while the Kabaka was at war;- if Stanley would but wait 
until he had chastised the insolent Wavuma, he should have guides to 
Muta Nzige. Stanley was also informed that the natives of the country 
lying along the route, under their chief, Kabba Eega, were at war 
with the whites of Kaniessa (Gondokoro), and hence that a consider- 
able force would be required. There was nothing for it, then, but to 
await the end of Mtesa's war. 

Mtesa attempted to end it by negotiations, but his peace party, 
dispatched to the Wavuma camp on Ingira Island, was massacred be- 
fore his very eyes. He decided at length to give battle to the enemy 
daily becoming bolder and more boastful. The result was that the 
Wavuma were left masters of the situation. Mtesa threatened that 
in the next battle, the chief who behaved cowardly should be burned, 
while his lands should be given to the peasant who distinguished him- 
self. Let us again quote the words of Stanley : 

' ' The entire war-fleet of two hundred and thirty vessels rode grace- 
fully on the calm gray waters of the channel. The line of battle, I 
observed, was formed by Chambarango, in command of the right flank, 
with fifty canoes; Sambuzi, Kukavya, Chikwata and Saruti, all sub- 
chiefs, were ranged with one hundred canoes under the command of 
Kauta, the imperial steward, to form the center; the left, flank was in 
charge of the gallant ]\rkwenda, who had eighty canoes. Tori com- 
manded a force of musketeers, and with his four howitzers was sta- 
tioned on the causeway, which was by this time two hundred yards from 
the shore. 



STANLEY'S TRIUMPHANT MARCH. 831 

A SEA BATTLE ON NAKABANGA. 

"In the above manner the fleet of vessels, containing some six- 
teen thousand men, moved to the attack upon Ingira. The center, de- 
fended by the flanks, which were to menace the rear of the Wavuma 
should they approach near the causeway, resolutely advanced to within 
thirty yards of Ingira, and poured in a most murderous fire among the 
slingers of the island, who, imagining that the Waganda meant to 
carry the island by storm, boldly stood exposed, resolved to fight. But 
they were unable to maintain that courageous behavior long, Mkwenda 
then moved up from the left, and attacked with his musketeers the 
Wavuma on the right, riddling their canoes, and making matters speci- 
ally hot for them in that quarter. 

"The Wavuma, seeing matters approaching a crisis, and not wish- 
ing to die tamely, manned their canoes, and a hundred and ninety-six 
dashed impetuously, as at first, from the rushes of Ingira with shrill 
loud yells, and the Waganda lines moved backward to the center of the 
channel, where they bravely and coolly maintained their position. As 
the center of the Uganda line parted in front of the causeway, and 
disclosed the hotly advancing enemy. Tori aimed the howitzers and 
fired at a group of about twenty canoes, completely shattering more 
than half of them, and re-loading one quickly, he discharged several 
bolts of iron three inches long among them with terrible effect. Be- 
fore this cool bearing of the Waganda, the Wavuma retired to their 
island again, and we saw numbers of canoes discharging their dead 
and wounded; and the Waganda were summoned to the Nakaranga 
shore to receive the congratulations of the emperor and the applause 
of the vast multitude. Mtesa went down to the water 'e edge to ex- 
press his satisfaction at their behavior. 

" *Go at them again,' said he, 'and show them what fighting is.* 

"And the line of battle was again formed, and again the Wavuma 
darted from the cover of the reeds and water-cane with the swiftness 
of hungry sharks, beating the water into foam with their paddles, and 
rending the air with their fearful yells. It was one of the most excit- 
ing and animating scenes I ever beheld ; but, owing to the terror of the 
stake with which their dread monarch had threatened them, the Wa- 



333 



STANLEY'S TRIUMPHANT MARCH. 



ganda distinguished themselves for coolness and method, and the Wa- 
vuma, as on a former occasion, for intrepidity and desperate courage. 
"A third time the Waganda were urged to the battle, and a third 
time the unconquerable and desperate enemy dashed upon them, to be 
smitten and wounded sore in a battle where they had not the least 
chance of returning blow for blow without danger of being swept by the 
cannon and muskets on the causeway. 




THE BYNCHOCYON — A PECULIAR AFRICAN BAT. 



"A third battle was fought a few days after between one hundred 
and seventy-eight Wavuma canoes and one hundred and twenty-two 
"Waganda ; but had the Waganda possessed the spirit and dash of their 
enemies, they might have decided the war on this day; for the Wa- 
vuma were greatly dispirited. A fourth battle was fought the next 
day oy two hundred and fourteen Waganda canoes and two hundred 
•nd three Wavuma canoes, after the usual delay and premonitory 
provocation. The Wavuma obtained the victory most signally. • • • 



STANLEY'S TRIUMPHANT MARCH. Itt 

The Waganda were disorganized and dispirited after the signal de- 
feat they had experienced. * * * On inquiring into the cause of the 
disaster, I learned that Mtesa's gunpowder was almost exhausted, and 
that he had scarcely a round left for each musket." 

Although Stanley was bound to Mtesa by past evidences of friend- 
ship, as well as by the hope of assistance in the future, he could not but 
feel strong admiration for the heroic Wavuma; and bent his energies 
"upon a solution of the problem how to injure none, but satisfy all." 
While he was considering this jjuzzling question, he was summoned to 
the council-chamber, where Mtesa was making ready to torture to 
death a Wavuma who had fallen into his hands. The emperor had but 
a few days before announced himself a Christian; and Stanley now 
warmly protested against such an un-Christian act. His arguments 
were disregarded for a long time, but finally, Mtesa listened to him. 
Stanley then promised to build a structure which should terrify the Wa- 
vuma, if Mtesa would but give him plenty of help. 

The Waganda are timid about fighting on water, being unused to 
the unstable element: it was for this reason that Stanley had advised 
the building of a causeway from the mainland to the island, that they 
might thus be on a more equal footing with the seamen Wavuma ; but 
the Waganda chiefs did not take kindly to the idea, and the causeway 
was not finished. Mtesa now gave orders that Stanley's directions 
should be minutely obeyed. 

He selected three of the strongest built canoes, each seventy feet 
long and six and one-half feet wide ; and had them drawn up four feet 
from each other. Tall trees were laid across them, and lashed firmly 
to the thwarts. Seven-foot poles were lashed to the thwarts of the 
outer canoes, and long poles, one inch in diameter, twisted in among 
these. When completed, it resembled an oblong stockade, which the 
spears of the enemy could not penetrate; and formed a floating fort, 
propelled by invisible rowers, and manned by more than two hundred 
men. This immense structure slowly advanced toward the island, 
while a voice from within asked the Wavuma if they were ready to 
submit to Mtesa now; if they went through the form of submission, 
he offered pardon to all ; if they refused, this terrible thing would blow 



334 STANLEY'S TRIUMPHANT MARCH. 

iniiTiipi!ffPfiii(ihi'P'»TP'«'ii| 




STANLEY'S TRIUMPHANT MARCH. 885 

them into atoms. The Wavuma, terrified by the strange thing, which 
doubtless contained some powerful spirits, yielded to the demand ; and 
the mysterious structure solemnly began its way back to the cove 
whence it had started. Thus the Wavuma, like the Trojans, were 
conquered by strategy when their determined valor defied open force. 
Here ends this marvellous circumnavigation of that mysterious 
large lake, which no white man before had explored. Its thrilling ad- 
venturous, brisk fighting and dangerous escapades even surpass 
Ulysses' adventures as told by the immortal Homer and we should have 
to fill a whole book would we narrate them all. King Mtesa granted our 
heroes the desired guide and escort for his visit to Albert Nyanza, 
and they at once began their overland march, carrying their barge. 
Lady Alice, and a canoe which had been named the "Livingstone." 
They had to pass through warlike tribes, but their escort consisted of 
more than 2,000 men besides Stanley's own force of 180, so that they 
were not attacked by the natives. 

THEY ABBIVE AT ALBERT NYANZA. 

They reached the shores of the lake in January; but there was a 
precipice with a sheer descent of fifty feet, down which the boats must 
be lowered; and while they were debating about the best way to ac- 
complish this, hostile demonstrations by the natives frightened the 
Waganda, who were already discontented ; and the leader of that force 
determined to return. Stanley was advised by his captains that half 
of his own force would accompany the Waganda in spite of all they 
could do; and he was therefore compelled to return with them. With 
the punishment that Mtesa inflicted upon his disobedient subjects, we 
have nothing to do. He expressed the greatest regret to Stanley that 
they had not fulfilled their orders; and offered a force of a hundred 
thousand men for the accomplishment of the traveler's purpose, if 
that number should be necessary. The offer was, however, declined; 
and Stanley left Uganda. 

Stanley next visited Rumanika, the gentle king who was subordinate 
to the fiery Mtesa. The dusky giant (for Eumanika was six feet six 
in his bare feet) received Stanley with much kindness, and praised hig 



188 



STANLEY'S TRIUMPHANT MARCH. 



country, Karagwe. He claimed not only the great river, Kagera, but a 
more wonderful thing still, the Hot Springs of Mtagata. Under the 
escort of this chief, Stanley began the circumnavigation of Lake Wind- 
ermere, March 8 ; and made several similar excursions from his camp 
on the Kagera. 

March 11, Rumanika furnished him with an escort of thirty men 
and a guide for his visit to Mtagata Hot Springs, which they reached 




NIAM-NIAMS (man AND WOMAN). 



after two days' journey. These remarkable springs are sis in num- 
ber, the temperature varying from one hundred and seven degees 
Fahrenheit to one hundred and twenty-nine and one-half degrees. A 
sample of the water taken to London and there analyzed, showed it to 
be faintly alkaline, holding sodium carbonate in solution. The natives 
praised the waters of the springs so highly that Stanley resolved to test 
them in his own person; but although he remained three days there 
and drank an enormous quantity of the water, he experienced no good. 
He intimates that the benefit received in cutaneous diseases result* 



STANLEY'S TRIUMPHANT MARCH. 837 

more from the unusual cleanliness than from any virtue in the water it- 
self. 

A great deal of information was received from Eumanika concern- 
ing the geography of the surrounding country ; and his sub-chiefs added 
their quota. Eumanika 's knowledge (not drawn from personal ex- 
perience) included a race of people but two feet high, another with 
tails, and still another with ears so long that they touched the ground 
when the man stood upright, and when he lay down, formed a sleep- 
ing mat and a covering from the cold. 

Having traced the extreme southern sources of the Nile, from the 
marshy plains and cultivated uplands where they are born, down to 
the mighty reservoir called the Victoria Nyanza, Stanley, on April 7, 
resumed his "journey in a southerly direction, and traveled five miles 
along a ravine, at the bottom of which murmured the infant stream 
Luhugati. On coming to its source we ascended a steep slope until we 
stood on the summit of a grassy ridge at the height of five thousand 
six hundred feet by aneroid. Not until we had descended a mile to the 
valley of Uyagoma did I recognize the importance of this ridge as the 
water-parting between one of the feeders of the Lake Victoria and the 
source of the Malagarazi, the principal affluent of Lake Tanganyika." 

Descending into the basin of the Tanganyika, the expedition arrived 
at Serombo April 22, and here received a visit from the mighty Mir- 
ambo whose war with the Arabs was now at an end. He insisted on 
making blood-brotherhood with Stanley, and tried to excel the white 
man in the generosity of his gifts. 

"We need not follow them through the uneventful journey to the 
shore of the Tanganyika. They arrived at iTjiji May 27, 1876. Provid- 
ing for the well-being of his followers during his absence, Stanley set 
out, June 11, with eleven men and two boy gun-bearers, to circum- 
navigate the lake, with the view of finding its outlet. The Lady Alice 
was accompanied by a canoe lent by an Arab, called the Meofu. The 
Arabs of Ujiji were quite convinced that these vessels would never be 
able to live in the Tanganyika, and predicted the most doleful things. 

They arrived at the banks of the Lukuga July 16. It will be re- 
membered that Cameron positively asserted that this river flows out of 

22. 



338 STANLEY'S TRIUMPHANT MARCH. 

Lake Tanganj'ika. Stanley was unable to find any current; and de- 
cided that what had been a river, the affluent of Tanganyika, was now 
but a creek or inlet, above which were marshes and ooze. He explains 
this by supposing that the surface of Tanganyika has been steadily 
rising, until the lake is now above the mouth of the original river ; and 
adduces proof that the lake had actually risen considerable since the 
time that he, in company with Livingstone, explored its shores. His 
recollections of particular points were confirmed by Arabs resident at 
Ujiji. 

SM.VLL-P0X AND FEVER. 

The circumnavigation of the lake was completed July 31, after an 
absence of fifty-one days from Ujiji. Stanley found the small-pox 
raging in this place, and it had carried off five of his men, who had 
evaded vaccination at Eosako. The fever attacked him, as it had also 
attacked his lieutenant, Frank Pocock, during his absence ; and to add 
to their troubles, thirty-eight men deserted on the eve of their depart- 
ure from Ujiji. Five more disappeared during the first stages of their 
journey, one of whom was Kalulu. Stanley determined to recover these 
men, for he had shortly before treated them with the greatest generos- 
ity, distributing three hundred and fifty pounds' worth of cloth among 
them gratuitously. Pocock and Kacheche were sent after the deserters, 
and captured seven, one of whom was Kalulu; these receiving merited 
punishment, an end was put to misconduct and faithlessness for the 

time. 

The shores of the Luama were reached October 11 ; and they followed 
this stream for a distance of two hundred and twenty miles, to its con- 
fluence with the greater river. The Luama here was about four hun- 
dred yards wide; the Lualaba, one thousand four hundred. "A broad 
river, of a pale grey color, winding slowly from south and by east. 

* * * A secret rapture filled my soul as I gazed upon the majestic 
stream. The great mystery that for all these centuries Nature had kept 
hidden away from the world of science, was waiting to be solved. 

* • * Before me lay the superb river ; my task was to follow it to the 
ocean." 



STANLEY'S TRIUMPHANT MARCH. 339 

A DANGEROUS EXPEDITION. 

At the village of Mkwanga, eight miles fi-om the confluence of these 
rivers, they met with Tippu Tib, otherwise Hamed bin Mohammed, a 
noted Arab trader with whom Cameron had had dealings; and from 
whom they learned how the Englishman had failed to obtain the canoes 
necessary for the descent of the Lualaba. The Arab endeavored to dis- 
suade him from the attempt; and painted the difficulties of the journey 
in strong colors. Stanley himself saw what they were ; Livingstone the 
Beloved had failed to overcome them by persuasion ; Cameron had failed 
to overcome them with his forty-five Snider rifles— an argument more 
generally understood by the savages. Tippu-Tib would not consent to 
be his escort unless Stanley would return to Nyangwe with him. What 
should be done? Stanley took his trusty lieutenant into council, and 
carefully stated all the advantages and difficulties of the various al- 
ternatives that presented themselves. Both were at heart anxious to 
explore the Lualaba to its mouth, but neither would say so. Under these 
circums ^nces, Frank made a proposition. 

" 'I say, sir, let us toss up ; best two out of three to decide it. ' 

" 'Toss away; here is a rupee.' 

" 'Heads for the north and the Lualaba; tails for the south and 
Katanga.' 

"Frank stood up, his face beaming. He tossed the rupee high up. 
The coin dropped. 

" 'What is it r I asked. 

" 'Tails, sir,' said Frank, with a face expressive of strong disap- 
proval. 

" 'Toss again,' 

"He tossed again, and tails was again annoimced— and six times run- 
ning tails won. We then tried straws— the short straws for the south, the 
long straws for the River Lualaba— and again we were disappointed, for 
Frank persisted in drawing out the short straws, and in leaving the long 
straws in my hands. 

" 'It is of no use, Frank. We'll face our destiny despite the rupee 
and the straws. With your help, my dear fellow, I will follow the 



340 STANLEY'S TRIUMPHANT MARCH. 

A contract was concluded with Tippu Tib, by which the trader agreed 
to accompany them sixty marches, of four hours each, when, if they 
found the country hostile, they should return with him to Nyangwe ; if 
they met Portuguese or Arab traders, a portion of the expedition was to 
continue the journey with them, and the remainder to return with Tippu 
Tib. This arrangement prevented desertions, as no Arab would harbor 
a runaway from an expedition with which one of their own countrymen 
was connected. 

November 5, 1876, they left Nyangwe, one hundred and forty-six men 
comjirising the expedition proper while Tippu Tib mustered seven hun- 
dred. Their road lay through the dense, almost impenetrable forest; 
and their progress at first was necessarily slow. So slow, indeed, that 
the Arab trader became disgusted, and regardless of the loss of the 
money, which was tQ be forfeited if he refused to fulfill his part of the 
contract, announced that he intended to return. Arguments at length 
persuaded him to compromise, and the expedition again took up the 
line of march. 

In a village of Uvinza, Stanley found the principal street decorated 
with skulls which looked to him like those of the human species. The 
chief and his people, however, informed him that they were soko skulls ; 
that the sokos stole their bananas, and were because of that hunted by 
his people, the flesh being used for meat. Stanley purchased two of the 
skulls, some of which bore the marks of the hatchet which had caused 
death ; and on his return to England submitted them to Professor Hux- 
ley. The eminent scientist unhesitatingly pronounced them human, one 
being a man's, the other a woman's ; thus showing that the Wavinza are 
cannibals. 

November 19, they reached a point on the Lualaba forty-one miles 
north of Nyangwe, in latitude three degrees thirty-five seconds south, 
and twenty-five degrees, forty-nine seconds east longitude. From this 
point, Stanley speaks of the river as the Livingstone, claiming that as 
the name is changed each time it receives an affluent, it is useless to at- 
tempt to follow the native designations. Here it was, while busily plan- 
ning the future journey, that Stanley suddenly saw his way clear before 



STANLEY'S TRIUMPHANT MARCH. 341 

him. They had encamped on the banks of the river, and he had been con- 
sidering the means of crossing it. 

"I sprang up; told the drummer to call to muster. The people re- 
sponded wearily to the call. Frank and the chiefs appeared. The Arabs 
and their escort came also, until a dense mass of expectant faces sur- 
rounded me. I turned to them and said : 

" 'Arabs! Sons of Unyamwezi! Children of Zanzibar! Listen to 
words. We have seen the Mitamba of Uregga. We have tasted its bit- 
terness, and groaned in spirit. We seek a road. We seek something by 
which we may travel. I seek a path that shall take me to the sea. I have 
found it.' 

" 'Ah! A-ah-h!' and murmurs and inquiring looks at one another. 

" 'Yes! El Jiamd ul Illahl I have found it. Kogard this mighty 
river. From the beginning it has flowed on thus, as you see it flow to- 
day. It has flowed on in silence and darkness. Whither? To the Salt 
Sea, as all rivers go. By that Salt Sea, on which the great ships come 
and go, live my friends, and your friends, Do they not?' 

"Criesof 'Yes!yes!' 

" 'Yet, my people, although this river is so great, so wide and deep, 
no man has ever penetrated the distance lying between this spot on which 
we stand and our white friends who live by the Salt Sea. Why? Be- 
cause it was left for us to do!' 

" 'Ah, no ! no ! no !' and despairing shakes of the head. 

" 'Yes,' I continued, raising my voice; 'I tell you, my friends, it has 
been left from the beginning of time until today for us to do. It is our 
work, and no other. It is the voice of Fate ! The ONE GOD has written 
that this year the river shall be known throughout its length ! We will 
have no more Mitambas ; we will have no more panting and groaning by 
the wayside ; we will have no more hideous darkness ; we will take to the 
river, and keep to the river. To-day I shall launch my boat on that 
stream, and it shall never leave it until I finish my work. I swear it!' 

" 'Now, you Wangwana ! You who have followed me through Turu, 
and sailed around the great lakes with me; you have followed me like 
children following their father through TJnyoro and down to Ujiji, and 
as far as this wild, wild land, will you leave me here ? Shall I and my 



342 STANLEY'S TRIUMPHANT MARCH. 

white brother go alone? Will you go back and tell my friends that you 
left me in this wild spot, and cast me adrift to die ? Or will you, to whom 
I have been so kind, whom I love as I would love my children, will you 
bind me, and take me back by force? Speak, Arabs! Where are my 
young men, with hearts of lions ? Speak, Wangwana, and show me those 
who dare follow me ! ' 

"Uledi, the coxswain, leaped upward, and then sprang towards me, 
and kneeling grasped my knees and said : 

" 'Look on me, my master! I am one! I will follow you to death!' 
' ' ' And I, ' Kacheche cried. 

" 'And I, and I, and I,' shouted the boat's crew. 

" 'It is well. I knew I had friends. You then who have cast your lot 
with me stand on one side, and let me count you. ' 

"There were thirty-eight. Ninety -five stood still and said nothing. 

" 'I have enough. Even with you, my friends, I shall reach the sea. 
'S>vi there is plenty of time. We have not yet made our canoes. We have 
not yet parted with the Arabs. We have yet a long distance to travel 
with Tippu Tib. We may meet with good people, from whom we may 
buy canoes. And by the time we part I am sure that the ninety-five men 
now fearing to go with us will not leave their brothers, and their master 
and his white brother, to go down the river without them. Meantime, I 
give you many thanks, and shall not forget your names.' " 

While Stanley was speaking to the Arabs, endeavoring to persuade 
them that cataracts and cannibals were dangers which he should over- 
come, a canoe had approached from the opposite bank, with two men 
in it. They demanded a thousand cowries for each man whom their 
tribe should set across the river ; and being offered ten, withdrew, utter- 
ing a peculiar cry, which Stanley's interpreter declared was a war- 
cry. Stanley crossed the river in the Lady Alice, and entered into nego- 
tiations with the horde of savages that he found there. It was agreed, 
upon the demand of the natives, that ten men should go from each side 
to a certain island the next morning and make blood-brotherhood. For- 
tunately the white man was on his guard ; and secretly posted a reserve 
of twenty men in the bushes before sending off Frank and the stipulated 



STANLEY'S TRIUMPHANT MARCH. 



343 




ATTACK ON A NEGBO VILLAGE BY SLAVE HUNTERS. 



344 STANLEY'S TRIUMPHANT MARCH. 

escort. The savages landed later, and although they behaved well at first, 
by the time that six canoes had discharged their human cargo they be- 
came so violent that had not Frank and his men risen with their guns 
ready they would have been speared where they sat. Seeing the state of 
affairs, the reserve emerged from the bushes. Stanley, who was four 
minutes' row up the stream in the Lady Alice, bade his men bend to 
their oars; and the treacherous savages, seeing that their wiles had 
been foreseen, took to their canoes and paddled away. 

Stanley then landed thirty men with axes on the other. side of the 
river ; and floating down to a point opposite the Wenya village, tossed a 
small bag of beads on shore, and professed himself willing to pay for the 
ferriage, explaining that it was useless for them to resist longer, as 
thirty of his men were already landed in their country. A good under- 
standing seemed to be thus established ; and the expedition was ferried 
over in safety. 

But the natives seized the first opportunity to decamp ; and when the 
travelers went to their village the next morning, to cement the new 
friendship by means of gifts, not a soul was to be found. It was the 
same in the neighboring villages; the alarm had spread from place to 
place during the night. 

The force was now divided, thirty-six men, including Stanley, form- 
ing the river party, while the remainder marched by land. The river 
party arrived November 23, at the mouth of the Ruiki, and after wait- 
ing until the next morning, rowed up stream to look for the others. Not 
finding any trace of them, the boat returned to the camp, where about 
two-thirds of this small party had been left as a garrison. It had been 
attacked during the leader's absence; but although there were several 
sheaves of iron-headed and wooden spears, besides reed arrows, in the 
camp, no one of the travelers had been wounded. The land party did not 
arrive until the next day ; and told of having been attacked, three of their 
number being killed. They had lost the road and were thus delayed. 

The rapids of Ukassa were passed the next day; not without danger 
from the natives as well as from the waters ; and from this point forward 
we find the two perils constantly besetting the adventurers. Nor was 
this all; such was the physical condition of the men, that "there was 



STANLEY'S TRIUMPHANT MARCH. 



345 



enough work in the stricken expedition for a dozen physicians. Every 
day we tossed two or three bodies into the deep waters of the Living- 
stone—poor creatures, what a life ! wandering, ever wandering, in search 
of graves." 



NEW DIFFICULTIES. 



Let US follow the history of a few days more minutely than ever; 
to see what were the difficulties besetting them. It is December, and 
they have passed the island of Mpika about the middle of the month. 

"While rowing down, close to the left bank, we were surprised by a 








sr=S:!^«^ 



THE QtTAaOA. 



346 STANLEY'S TRIUMPHANT MARCH. 

cry from one of the guards of the hospital canoes, and turning round 
saw an arrow fixed in his chest. The next instant, looking towards the 
bank, we saw many men in the jungle, and several arrows flew past my 
head in extremely unpleasant proximity. 

"We sheered off, pulling hard down stream. * * * "We drew in 
shore, and sending out ten scouts to lie in wait in the jungle, I mustered 
all the healthy men, about thirty in number, and proceeded to construct a 
fence of brushwood. Presently a shriek of agony from another of my 
men rang out through the jungle, followed immediately by the sharp 
crack of the scouts' Sniders, which again was resjionded to by an in- 
fernal din of war-horns and yells, while arrows flew past us from all 
directions. Twenty more men were at once sent into the jungle to assist 
the scouts, while, with might and main, we labored to surround our 
intended camp with tall and dense hedges of brushwood, with sheltered 
nooks for riflemen. After an hour's labor, the camp was deemed suf- 
ficiently tenable, and the recall was sounded. The scouts retreated on 
the run, shouting as they approached : 

' ' ' Prepare ! prepare ! they are coming ! ' 

"About fifty yards of ground outside of our camp had been cleared, 
which, upon the retreat of the scouts who had been keeping them in check, 
was soon filled by hundreds of savages, who pressed upon us from all 
sides but the river, in the full expectation that we were flying in fear. 
But they were mistaken, for we were at bay, and desperate in our re- 
solve not to die without fighting. Accordingly, at such close quarters 
the contest became terrific. Again and again the savages hurled them- 
selves upon our stockade, launching spear after spear with deadly force 
into the camp, to be each time repulsed. Sometimes the muzzles of the 
guns almost touched their breasts. The shrieks, cries, shouts of encour- 
agement, the rattling volley of musketry, the booming war-horns, the 
yells and defiance of the combatants, the groans and screams of the wo- 
men and children in the hospital camp, made together such a medley 
of hideous noises as can never be effaced from my memory. For 
two hours this desperate conflict lasted. More than once, some of the 
Wangwana were about to abandon the struggle and run to the canoes, 
but Uledi the coxswain and Frank threatened them with clubbed mus- 



STANLEY'S TRIUMPHANT MARCH. 347 

kets, and with the muzzles of their rifles drove them back to the stock- 
ades. At dusk the enemy retreated from the vicinity of the clearing; 
but the hideous alarms produced from their ivory horns, and increased 
by the echoes of the dense forest, continued ; and now and again a venge- 
ful poison-laden arrow flew by with an ominous whiz to quiver in the 
earth at our feet, or fall harmlessly into the river behind us." 

A strict watch was kept during the night; but the men in the camp 
were so quiet that those in the jungle thought they slept, and attacked 
them. In the morning, they rowed about five hundred yards down the 
river, and occupied a deserted village on the right bank. 

"We were not long left unmolested. The savages recovered their 
wits, and strove desperately to dislodge us, but at each end of the village, 
which was about three hundred yards long, our muskets blazed inces- 
santly. I also caused three or four sharp-shooters to ascend tall trees 
along the river banks, which permitted them, although unseen, to over- 
look the tall grasses and rear of the village, and to defend us from fire. 
* * * The combat lasted till noon, when, mustering twenty-five 
men, we made a sally, and succeeded in clearing the skirts of the village 
for the day. * * * During the night there was a slight alarm, and 
now and then the tapping on the roofs and the pattering among the 
leaves informed us that our enemies were still about, though we did not 
reply to them. The next morning an assault was attempted; but the 
enemy retreated almost immediately into the jungle. 

DESPEEATE BATTLE WITH NATIVES. 

"About noon, a large flotilla of canoes was observed ascending the 
river close to the left bank, manned by such a dense mass of men that 
any number between five hundred and eight hundred would be within the 
mark. We watched them very carefully until they had ascended the 
river about half a mile above us, when, taking advantage of the cur- 
rent, they bore down towards us, blowing their war-horns, and drum- 
ming vigorously. At the same moment, as though this were a signal 
in concert with those on land, war-horns responded from the forest, and 
I had scarcely time to order every man to look out when the battle-tem- 
pest of arrows broke upon us from the woods. But the twenty men in the 



348 STANLEY'S TRIUMPHANT MARCH. 

nests at the corners of the villages proved STifficient to resist the attack 
from the forest side, Frank Pocock being in charge of one, and Sheikh 
Abdallah of the other, while I, with twenty men lining the bushes along 
the water line, defended the river side. 

' ' This was a period when every man felt that he must either fight or 
resign himself to the only other alternative, that of being heaved a head- 
less corpse into the river. * * * Therefore, though the notes of the 
war-horns were dreadful, our foes pertinacious and numerous, and evi- 
dently accustomed to victory, I failed to observe one man among my peo- 
ple then fighting who did not seem desirous to excel even Uledi the cox- 
swain. 

"The battle had continued half an hour with a desperate energy, only 
qualified by our desperate state. Ammunition we possessed in abund- 
ance, and we made use of it with deadly effect, yet what might have 
become of us is doubtful, had not the advanced guard of Tippu Tib and 
our land division arrived at this critical juncture, causing dismay to the 
savages in the forest, who announced the reinforcement by horns to the 
savages in the canoes, many of whom were making strenuous efforts to 
effect a landing. The river savages, upon hearing these signals, with- 
drew, but as they were paddling away they proclaimed their intention 
of preventing all escape, either up river or down river, and expressed 
their contenipt for us by throwing water towards us with their paddles. 
We saw the canoe mysteriously disappear behind an island, situated 
about sixteen hundred yards off and opposite to our camp." 

That night, Stanley and Pocock, with crews of picked men, made their 
way, with muffled oars, to the island, and captured thirty-eight of the 
enemy's canoes. This enabled them to make their own terms with the 
savages, who were glad enough to make blood-brotherhood with Safeni 
for the return of fifteen of their vessels. Stanley had lost four men 
killed in the contest and thirteen wounded. 

Stanley now determined to dispense with his Arab escort; and since 
a sufficient number of canoes had been procured, to take to the river in 
good earnest. Food must be procured and prepared for at least twenty 
days ; the canoes must be thoroughly overhauled, and lashed in couples, 
to prevent their capsizing. The vessels were named by the Zanzibaris 



STANLEY'S TRIUMPHANT MARCH. 349 

after those which visited their native place ; except half a dozen, which 
were christened by the two white men. 

ATTACKED BY CANNIBALS. 

Christmas day was passed pleasantly and happily. Three days later 
the final farewells were spoken; the Arabs returned toward the starting- 
point, and the expedition sailed down the river, toward the Unknown. 

For a week they journeyed through a country where the war-cry, 
frequently heard, was "Meat!" but fortunately they were not seriously 
molested, as their camp was always well guarded at night; and the 
fame of their prowess had evidently preceded them. On January 4, 1877, 
they came within hearing of the first cataract of Stanley Falls, But 
louder yet sounded the piercing yells of the savage Mwana Ntaba from 
both sides of the great river. This tribe had attacked them the previous 
afternoon, but had been repulsed, a huge canoe of theirs being cap- 
tured by the Lady Alice. Theirs was a terrible alternative ; either they 
must face the cannibals, collected in they knew not what numbers, or 
they must dare the cataracts. Possibly it was only a choice between 
deaths, by knives or by drowning ; the latter was certain, if they chose 
the water route ; the former left room for hope, if they chose the land 
route. They therefore decided to fight the way around the cataracts. 

"There was only one way to resolve the problem, and that was to meet 
the Bakumu and dare their worst, and then to drag the canoes through 
the dense forest on the left bank. Accordingly, we prepared for what 
we felt assured would be a stubborn contest. At early dawn of the 10th 
of January, with quick throbbing pulses, we stole up the river for about 
a mile, and then with desperate haste dashed across to the shorer [from 
the island where they had been encamped] where we became immedi- 
ately engaged. We floated down to the bend just above the cataract, and 
there secured our boats and canoes out of the influence of the stream. 
Ijeaving Frank with eight men and sixty axes to form a stockade, I led 
thirty-six men in a line through the bushes, and drove the united Baswa 
and Bakumu backward to their villages, the first of which were situated 
a mile from the river. Here a most determined stand was made by them, 
for they had piled up heaps of brushwood, and cut down great trees to 



350 STANLEY'S TRIUMPHANT MARCH. 

form defenses, leaving only a few men in front. We crept through the 
jungle on the south side and succeeded in forcing an entrance and driving 
them out. We had thus won peace for this day, and retreated to our 
camp. We then divided the expedition into two parties, or relays, one to 
work by night, the other by day, after which I took a picked body of 
pioneers with axes and guns and cut a narrow path three miles in length, 
blazing the trees as a guide, and forming rude camps at intervals of 
half a mile. * * * 

"We were not further disturbed during this day. In the evening 
Frank began his work with fifty axemen, and ten men as scouts, de- 
ployed in the bush,es in front of the working party. Before dawn we 
were all awakened, and making a rush with the canoes, succeeded in 
safely reaching our first camp by 9 A. M., with all canoes and baggage. 
During the passage of the rear-guard the Bakumu made their presence 
known to us by a startling and sudden outburst of cries ; but the scouts 
immediately replied to them with their rifles, and maintained their posi- 
tion until they were supported by the other armed men, who were now 
led forward as on the day before. We chased the savages two miles 
inland, to other, villages which we had not hitherto seen ; and these also 
we compelled them to abandon." 

PASSING THE CATARACTS. 

Thus the work of passing the cataracts went on, night and day, and 
after seventy-eight hours' immense exertions, the canoes were laimched 
once more. But their difficulties were not yet at an end. Three cat- 
aracts had been passed in safety ; how many remained below? But per- 
haps an extract from Stanley's journal will give a more vivid picture of 
the occurrences the day after the third cataract was safely passed than 
any other words could do : 

"January 14.— As soon as we reached the river we began to float the 
canoes down to a two-mile stretch of rapids to a camp opposite the south 
end of Ntunduru Island. Six canoes were taken down safely by the gal- 
lant boat's crew. The seventh canoe was manned by Museati, Uledi 
Muscati, and Zaidi, a chief. Museati, the steersman, lost his presence of 
mind, and soon upset his canoe in a piece of bad water. Muscati and 



STANLEY'S TRIUMPHANT MARCH. 351 

his friend Uledi swam down the furious stream to Ntunduru Island, 
whence they were saved by the eighth canoe, manned by stout-hearted 
Manwa Sera and Uledi, the coxswain of the Lady Alice ; but poor Zaidi, 
the chief, paralyzed by the roar of the stream, unfortunately thought 
bis safety was assured by clinging to his canoe, which was soon swept 
past our new camp, in full view of those who had been deputed with 
Frank to form it, to what seemed inevitable death. But a kindly Provi- 
dence, which he has himself gratefully acknowledged, saved him even on 
the brink of eternity. The great fall at the north end of Ntunduru Island 
happens to be disparted by a single pointed rock, and on this the canoe 
was driven, and, borne down by the weight of the waters, was soon split 
in two, one side of which got jammed below, the other tilted upward. To 
this the almost drowned man clung, while perched on the rocky point, 
with his ankles washed by the stream. To his left, as he faced up stream, 
there was a stretch of fifty yards of falling water ; to his right were 
nearly fifty yards of leaping brown waves, while close behind him the 
water fell down sheer to six or eight feet, through a gap ten yards wide, 
between the rocky point on which he was perched and a rocky islet three 
hundred yards long. 

"When called to the scene by his weeping friends from my labors 
up river, I could scarcely believe my eyes, or realize the strange chance 
which placed him there ; and certainly a more critical position than the 
poor fellow was in cannot be imagined. * * * The solitary man on that 
narrow pointed rock was apparently calmer than any of us; though 
we could approach within fifty yards, he could not hear a word we said; 
he could see us, and feel assured that we sympathized with him in his 
terrible position. 

"We then, after collecting our faculties, began to prepare means to 
save him. After sending men to collect rattans, we formed a cable, by 
which we attempted to lower a small canoe, but the instant it seemed to 
reajch him the force of the current hurrying to the fall was so great that 
the cable snapped like packthread, and the canoe swept by him like an 
arrow, and was engulfed, shattered, split, and pounded into fragments. 
Then we endeavored to toss toward him poles tied with creepers, but 
the vagaries of the current and its convulsive heaving made it impos- 



352 STANLEY'S TRIUMPHANT MARCH. 

sible to reach him with them, while the man dared not move a hand, but 
sat silent, watching our futile efforts, while the conviction gradually set- 
tled on our minds that his doom, though protracted, was certain. 

' ' Then, after anxious deliberation with myself, I called for another 
canoe, and lashed to the bow of it a cable consisting of three one-inch 
rattans twisted together and strengthened by all the tent ropes. A simi- 
lar cable was lashed to the side, and a third w,as fastened to the stern, 
each of these cables being ninety yards in length. A shorter cable, thirty 
yards in length, was lashed to the stern of the canoe, which was to be 
guided within reach of him by a man in the canoe. 

"Two volunteers were called for. No one would step forward. I 
offered rewards. Still no one would respond. But when I began to 
speak to them, asking them how they would like to be in such a position 
without a single friend offering to assist in saving them, Uledi the cox- 
swain came forward and said: 

" 'Enough, master, I will go. Mambu Kwa Mungu'—Mj fate is in 
the hands of God. 

"And immediately he began preparing himself by binding his loin- 
cloth firmly about his waist. Then Marzouk, a boat-boy, said : 

" 'Since Uledi goes, I will go too.' 

"Other boat-boys, young Shumari and Aaywa, offered their services, 
but I checked them, and said : 

" 'You surely are not tired of me, are you, that you all wish to die? 
If all my brave boat-boys are lost, what shall we do?' " 

RESCUE OF ZAIDI. 

"Uledi and his friend Marzouk stepped into the canoe with the air of 
gladiators, and we applauded them heartily^ but enjoined on them to be 
careful. Then I turned to the crowd on the shore who were manning 
the cables, and bade them beware of the least carelessness, as the lives of 
the three young men depended on their attention to the orders that would 
be given. 

"The two young volunteers were requested to paddle across the river, 
so that the stern might be guided by those on shore. The bow and side 
cables were slackened until the canoe was within twenty yards of the 



STANLEY'S TRIUMPHANT MARCH. 



353 




jj HIPPOPOTAMI THAT MB. ROOSEVELT WAS VEEY SUCCESSFUL IN SHOOTING. 



354 STANLEY'S TRIUMPHANT MARCH. 

roaring falls, and Uledi endeavored to guide the cable to Zaidi, but the 
convulsive heaving of the river swept the canoe constantly to one side, 
where it hovered over the steep slope and brown waves of the left 
branch, from the swirl of which we were compelled to draw it. Five 
times the attempt was made, but at last, the sixth time, encouraged by 
the safety of the cables, we lowered the canoe until it was within ten 
yards of Zaidi, and Uledi lifted the short cable and threw it over to him 
and struck his arm. He had just time to grasp it before he was car- 
ried over into the chasm below. For thirty seconds we saw nothing of 
him, and thought him lost, when his head rose above the edge of the fall- 
ing waters. Instantly the word was given to haul away, but at the first 
pull the bow and side cables parted, and the canoe began to glide down 
the left branch with my two boat-boys on board ! The stern cable next 
parted, and, horrified at the result, we stood muttering: "La il Allah, il 
Allah,' watching the canoe severed from us drifting to certain destruc- 
tion, when we suddenly observed it halted. Zaidi, in the channel clinging 
to his cable was acting as a kedge-anchor, which swei^t the canoe against 
the rocky islet. Uledi and Marzouk sprang out of the canoe, and lean- 
ing over assisted Zaidi out of the falls, and the three, working with des- 
perate energy, succeeded in securing the canoe on the islet. 

"But though we hurrahed and were exceedingly rejoiced, their po- 
sition was still but a short reprieve from death. There were fifty yards 
of wild waves, and a resistless rush of water, between them and safety, 
and to the right of them was a fall three hundred yards in width, and 
below was a mile of falls and rapids, and great whirlpools, and waves 
rising like little hills in the middle of the terrible stream, and below 
these were the fell cannibals of Wane-Mukwa and Asama. 

"How to reach the island was a question which now perplexed me. 
We tied a stone to about a hundred yards of whipcord, and after the 
twentieth attempt they managed to catch it. To the end of the whipcord 
they tied the tent rope which had parted before, and drawing it to our 
side we tied the stout rattan creeper, which they drew across taut and 
fastened to a rock, by which we thought we had begun to bridge the 
stream. But night drawing nigh, we said to them that we would defer 
further expei'iment till morning. 



STANLEY'S TRIUMPHANT MARCH. 355 

' ' Meantime the ninth canoe, whose steersman was a supernumerary 
of the boat, had likewise got upset, and he out of six men was drowned, 
to our regret, but the canoe was saved. All other vessels were brought 
down safely, but so long as my poor faithful Uledi and his friends are on 
the islet, and still in the arms of death, the night finds us gloomy, sor- 
rowing, and anxious. 

"January 15.— My first duty this morning was to send greetings to 
the three brave lads on the islet, and to assure them that they should be 
saved before they were many hours older. Thirty men with guns were 
sent to protect thirty other men searching for rattans in the forest, and 
by nine o'clock we possessed sixty strong canes, besides other long climb- 
ers, and as fast as we were able to twist them together they were drawn 
across by Uledi and his friends. Besides, we sent light cables to be 
lashed round the waist of each man, after which we felt trebly assured 
that all accidents were guarded against. Then hailing them I motioned 
to Uledi to begin, while ten men seized the cable, one end of which he 
had fastened around his waist. Uledi was seen to lift up his hands to 
heaven, and waving his hands to us as he leaped into the wild flood, seiz- 
ing the bridge cable as he fell into the depths. Soon he rose, hauling him- 
self hand over hand, the waves brushing his face, and sometimes rising 
over his head, until it seemed as if he scarcely would be able to breathe ; 
but by jerking his body occasionally upward with a desperate effort, he 
so managed to survive the waves and to approach us, where a dozen 
willing hands were stretched out to snatch the half-smothered man. 
Zaidi next followed, but after the tremendous proofs he had given of his 
courage and tenacious hold we did not much fear for his safety, and he 
also landed, to be warmly congratulated for his double escape from 
death. Marzouk, the youngest was the last, and we held our breath while 
the gallant boy was struggling out of the fierce grasp of death. "V\Tiile 
yet midway the pressure of water was so great that he lost his hold of 
two cables, at which the men screamed in terror lest he should relax 
his hold altogether from despair ; but I shouted harshly to him : 

*' 'Pull away, you fool. Be a man.' 

"At which with three hauls he approached within reach of our will- 
ing hands, to be embraced and applauded by all. The cheers we gave 



856 STANLEY'S TRIUMPHANT MARCH. 

•were so loud and hearty that the cannibal Wane-Mukwa must have 
known, despite the roar of the waters, that we had passed through a 
great and thrilling scene." 

SHOUTS OF DEFIANCE AND THREATS. 

We heed not follow them through their almost daily encounters with 
the hostile natives, many of whom were cannibals ; some of them were 
driven off, others were glad to make friends with the white men and 
their followers. They arrived at the mouth of the Aruwimi, February 
1. At this point in the river, they had seen many canoes. Stanley con- 
tinues: 

"We heard shouts of defiance or threats, we knew not which— we had 
become indifferent to the incessant noise and continued fury. * * * 
As soon as we have fairly entered the waters [of the Aruwimi] we see a 
great concourse of canoes hovering about some islets which stud the mid- 
dle of the stream. The canoe-men, standing up, give a loud shout as 
they discern us, and blow their horns loudei than ever. We pull briskly 
on to gain the right bank, and come in view of the right branch of the 
affluent, when, looking up stream, we see a sight that sends the blood 
tingling through every nerve and fiber of the body, arouses not only our 
lively interest, but also our most lively apprehensions— a flotilla of 
gigantic canoes bearing down upon us, which both in size and numbers 
eclipse anything encountered hitherto ! Instead of aiming for the right 
bank, we form in line, and keep straight down the river, the boat taking 
position behind. Yet after a moment's reflection, as I note the numbers 
of the savages, and the daring manner of the pursuit, and the apparent 
desire of our canoes to abandon the steady compact line, I give the order 
to drop anchor. Four of our canoes affect not to listen, until I chase 
them, and threaten them with my guns. This compelled them to return 
to the line, which is formed of eleven double canoes, anchored ten yards 
apart. The boat moves up to the front, and takes position fifty yards 
above them. The shields are nest lifted by the non-combatants, men, 
women, and children in the bows, and along the outer lines, as well as 
astern, and from behind these the muskets and rifles are aimed. 

"We have sufficient time to take a view of the mighty force bearing 



STANLEY'S TRIUMPHANT MARCH. 357 

down on us, and to count the number of the war-vessels which have been 
collected from the Livingstone and its great affluent. There are fifty- 
four of them ! A monster canoe leads the way, with two rows of up- 
standing paddJes, forty men on a side, their bodies bending and swaying 
in unison as with a swelling barbarous chorus they drive her down 
toward us. In the bow, standing on what appears to be a platform, are 
ten prime young warriors, their heads gay with feathers of the parrot 
crimson and gray ; at the stern, eight men with long paddles whose tops 
are decorated with ivory balls, guide the monster vessel ; and dancing up 
and down from stem to stern are eight men who appear to be chiefs. 
All the paddles are headed with ivory balls, every head bears a feather 
crown, every arm shows gleaming white armlets. From the bow of the 
canoe streams a thick fringe of the long white fiber of the Hyphene palm. 
The crashing sound of large drums, a hundred blasts from ivory horns, 
and a thrilling chant from two thousand human throats, do not tend to 
soothe our nerves or to increase our confidence. However, it is neck or 
nothing. We have no time to pray, or to take a sentimental look at the 
savage world, or even to breathe a sad farewell to it. So many other 
things have to be done speedily and well. 

"As the foremost canoe comes rushing down, and the consorts on 
either side beating the water into foam, and raising their jets of water 
with their sharp prows, I turn to take a last look at our people, and say 
to them : 

" 'Boys, be firm as iron; wait until you see the first spear, and then 
take aim. Don't fire all at once, keep aiming until you are sure of your 
man. Don't think of running away, for only your guns can save you.' 

"Frank is with the Ocean on the right flank, and has a choice crew, 
and a good bulwark of black wooden shields. Manwa Sera has the Lon- 
don Town— which he has taken charge of instead of the Glasgow— on 
the left flank, the sides of the canoe bristling with guns, in the hands of 
tolerably steady men 

A MONSTER CANOE MANNED WITH WARRIORS. 

"The monster canoe aims straight for my boat, as though it would 
run us down ; but when within fifty yards swerves aside, and when nearly 



358 STANLEY'S TRIUMPHANT MARCH. 

opposite, the warriors above the manned prow let fly their spears, and 
on either side there is a noise of rushing bodies. But every sound is soon 
lost in the ripping and crackling of musketry. For five minutes we are 
so absorbed in firing that we can take note of nothing else ; but at the 
end of that time we are made aware that the enemy is re-forming about 
two hundred yards above us. 

' ' Our blood is now up. It is a murderous world, and we feel for the 
first time that we hate the filthy, vulturous ghouls that inhabit it. "We 
therefore lift our anchors, and pursue them up stream along the right 
bank, until rounding a point we see their villages. "We make straight for 
the banks, and continue the fight in the village streets with those who 
have landed, hunt them out into the woods, and there only sound the 
retreat, having returned the daring cannibals the compliment of a 
visit." 

Still floating down the river, they came to the country of the Ban- 
gala February 14. Stanley had some hopes of conciliating this tribe 
by means of gifts, as they were somewhat accustomed to the visits of 
the traders; for the travelers were now indeed approaching the por- 
tion of the river which was known to the merchants. Let us see how 
these efforts to make friends succeeded: 

' ' We had left Observation Island about half a mile behind us when 
the prows of many canoes were seen to emerge out of the creek. I stood 
up and edged toward them, holding a long piece of red cloth in one hand 
and a coil of brass wire in another. "We rested on our oars, and the 
men quietly placed their paddles in the canoe, and sat up, watchful, 
and ready for contingencies. As we floated down, numbers of canoes 
advanced. 

"I hailed the natives, who were the most brilliantly decorated of 
any that I had seen. * * * The natives returned no answer to my 
hail; still I persisted. I observed three or four canoes approaching 
Frank's vessel with a most suspicious air about them, and several 
of their canoes menacing him, at which Frank stood up and menaced 
them with his weapon. I thought the act premature, and ordered him 
to sit down and look away from them. I again raised the crimson cloth 
and wire, and by pantomime offered to give it to those in front, whom 



STANLEY'S TRIUMPHANT MARCH'. 



359 



I was previously addressing; but almost immediately those natives who 
had threatened Frank fired into my boat, wounding three of my young 
crew, and two more natives fired into Frank's canoe, wounding two. The 
missiles fired into us were jagged pieces of iron and coppor precisely 
similar to those which the Ashantees employed. After this murderous 




THE BUSH HOQ. 



outrage there was no effoi't made to secure peace. The shields were 
lifted, and proved capital defenses against the hail of slugs. Boats, 
shields and canoes were pitted, but only a few shields were perforated. 
' ' The conflict began in earnest, and lasted so long that armnunition 
had to be redistributed. We perceived that, as the conflict continued, 
every village sent out its quota. * * * At three o'clock, I counted 



360 STANLEY'S TRIUMPHANT MARCH. 

sixty-three canoes opposed to us. * * * And, allowing five gnns on 
an average to each of the sixty-three canoes, there were three hundred 
and fifteen muskets opposed to our forty-four. Their mistake was in 
supposing their slugs to have the same penetrative power and long 
range as our missiles had. * * * After the departure of the wounded 
chief to the shore, the firing became desultory, and at 5 :30 P. M. our 
antagonists retired, leaving us to attend to our wounded, and to give 
three hearty cheers at our success. This was our thirty-first fight on 
the terrible river— that last but one— and certainly the most determined 
conflict that we had endured." 

Stanley's thikty-second fight with savages. 

The thirty-second fight took place March 9, a band of savages at- 
tacking them just as they were preparing breakfast; fourteen men 
were wounded before the savages were repulsed, but none were killed. 

March 11, they arrived at a widening of the river into a lake-like 
expanse, which the leader, at the suggestion of his lieutenant, named 
Stanley Pool. Although their struggles with the natives were now at 
an end, having reached a point where they were more accessible to 
trade, the travelers found that they were by no means safe from dangers 
by river. Just below that expansion of the stream which was thus chris- 
tened, are the cataracts now known as Livingstone Falls ; and here new 
trials awaited them. 

Passing several bad pieces of river, they had reached a point just 
below the Cauldron, and Stanley was superintending arrangements for 
a camp on the hard white sand of the river-bank. Glancing up, to his 
horror he caw the Crocodile, one of the canoes, in mid-river, far below 
the point which they had rounded, gliding with the speed of an arrow 
toward the falls over the treacherous calm water. Human strength 
availed nothing; he could but watch the vessel as she darted over the 
fall, bearing with her his boy Kalulu and four others. They saw it 
whirled round three or four times, then plunged down into the depths; 
out of which the stern presently emerged pointed upward ; and then they 
knew that Kalulu and his canoe-mates were no more. 



STANLEY'S TRIUMPHANT MARCH. 361 

A second canoe darted by the horrified spectators, but almost by a 
miracle shot over the falls, and was brought to land below, the two 
men in its escaping harm. A third canoe darted past them, having but 
one man in it ; but was less fortunate than the others, and was whirled 
down to instant death. 

In remembrance of the victim who had been most intimately con- 
nected with the leader, his body-servant Kalulu, the cataract was named 
Kalulu Falls. But Stanley himself was not to escape danger from 
the violence of the river. He had devised a means of descending the 
river in safety even in the midst of rapids, by means of cables of cane ; 
but the impediments were greater at this point than they had ever 
been before, and by a careless slacking of the stern cable, the current ■ 
swept the boat from the hands of that portion of the crew whose duty it 
was to lower her cautiously down the fall, to the narrow line of ebb- 
flood below the rocky projection. It was useless to direct the men; for 
the human voice was drowned in the roar of the mad waters ; oars were 
only useful to assist the helm, for they were flying with terrific speed 
past the series of boulders which strangled the river. 

"After two miles we were abreast of the bay or indentation at which 
we had hoped to camp, but the strong river mocked our efforts to gain 
it. The flood was resolved we should taste the bitterness of death. A 
sudden rumbling noise, like the deadened sound of an earthquake, 
caused us to look below, and we saw the river heaved bodily upward,, 
as though a volcano was about to belch around us. Up to the summit 
of this watery mound we were impelled ; and then divining what was 
about to take place, I shouted out: 

" 'Pull, men, for your lives!' 

"A few frantic strokes drove us to the lower side of the mound, 
and before it had finished subsiding, and had begun its usual fatal cir- 
cling, we were precipitated over a small fall, and sweeping down to- 
ward the inlet into which the Nkenke cataract tumbled, below the lowest 
line of the Lady Alice rapids. Once or twice we were flung scornfully 
aside, and spun around contemptuously, as though we were to insigni- 
ficant to be wrecked ; then availing ourselves of a calm moment, we re- 



362 STANLEY'S TRIUMPHANT MARCH. 

sumed our oars, and soon entering the ebb-tide, rowed up river and 
reached the sandy beach at the junction of the Nkenke with the Living- 
stone. ' ' 

FEAKK POCOCK's DEATH. 

June 3, Stanley left the camp at Mowa to proceed to Zinga, in order 
to establish a camp at the latter place ; the boats were then to be trans- 
ported overland, since the river would not allow of a voyage between 
these two points. Frank Pocock was left behind, for the time, until 
the leader should send men back with a hammock to carry him for- 
ward, for he was suffering so much with ulcers on both feet that he was 
quite lame. The shoes of both had given out, though Stanley man- 
aged to keep his, tattered and slit as they were, upon his feet; and 
the slightest wound from the roughness of the road is liab;e in that 
climate to be poisoned by the bite of the insects. But Pocock was im- 
patient, and insisted upon being taken in a canoe which Uledi had been 
ordered to proceed with. In vain the faithful servitor argued that it 
was not safe for them to go by river; the young Englishman, a water- 
man by training, laughed at his fears, and declared it was but cowardice 
which made him and his comrades hesitate. The boatmen were at last 
goaded by these taunts to undertake that which their better judgment 
told them was simply fool-hardy. 

"In a few seconds they had entered the river; and in obedience 
to Frank, Uledi steered his craft for the left side of the river. But it 
soon became clear that they could not reach it. There was a greasy 
slipperiness about the water that was delusive, and it was irresistibly 
bearing them broadside over the falls ; and observing this, Uledi turned 
the prow, and boldly bore down for the center. Boused from his seat 
by the increasing thunder of the fearful waters, Frank rose -to his 
feet, and looked over the heads of those in front, and now the full dan- 
ger of his situation burst upon him. But too late ! They had reached 
the fall, and plunged headlong amid the waves and spray. The angry 
waters rose, and leaped into their vessel, spun them round as though on 
a pivot, and so down over the curling, dancing, leaping crests they were 
borne, to the whirlpools that yawned below. Ah ! then came the mo- 
ment of anguish, regret and terror! 



STANLEY'S TRIUMPHANT MARCH. 



363 




THE DOG-HEADED THYL0EINU3. 



" 'Hold on to tlie canoe, my men; seize a rope, each one,' said lie, 
while tearing his flannel shirt away. Before he could prepare himself, 
the canoe was drawn down into the abyss, and the whirling, flying waters 
closed over all. When the vacuum was filled, a great body of water was 
belched upward, and the canoe was disgorged into the briglit sun- 
light, with several gasping men clinging to it. When they had drifted 
a little distance away from the scene, and had collected their facul- 
ties, they found that there were only eight of them alive ; and alas for 
ns who were left to bewail his sudden doom, there was no white face 



364 STAMEY'S TRIUMFHAXT MARCH. 

aiuoug tbcm. But presently, close to them another commotion, another 
heaving and belching of waters, and out of them the insensible form of 
the "little master' appeared, and they heard a loud moan from him. 
Then Uledi. forgetting his late escape from the whirling pit, flung out 
bis arms and struck gallantly toward him, but another pool sucked them 
both in. and the waves closed over him before he could reach him ; and 
for the second time the brave coxswain emerged, faint and weary— but 
Frank Pocock was seen no more." 

This was not the last of Stanley's troubles; many of his men, see- 
ing no apparent hope of n?aching smoother waters or a less difficult 
road, declared that they would go no further; and more than thirty 
of them actually set out on their journey back. They were, however, 
persuaded to return; not only by those who remained faithful to him, 
but by the determination of the natives to help none of those who had 
deserted their white master. 

He had thought it slow traveling when, from the 16th of March to 
the 21st of April inclusive, a period of thirty-seven days, the expedition 
bad made but thirty-four miles' progress; but it required thirty days to 
transport the expedition from Mowa to Zinga, a distance of three miles ; 
and four men had been drowned during that time. 

Late in July they reached the Yellala. Here the boats wei-e aban- 
doned, even the Lady Alice being left to bleach and rot on the shores 
of the mighty river; and everj'thing not absolutely necessary being 
given to the men to buy food, the worn and weary and sadly diminished 
expedition set out on the way to the coast, five or six days oflf. 

STAKVATIOK AND SICKNESS. 

They were literally starving men, for the food which they were 
able to obtain from the natives was small in quantity and poor in qual- 
ity. Xearly forty of them were sick, with dysentery, ulcers, or scur\'y ; 
they had no fear of death left, and no hope of life ; they dragged them- 
selves wearily onward, not knowing who would be tlie next to fall, 
only sure that none of them would again reach their home. 

And what of the leader? He had shared all their trials; he was 
hungry and weary and footsore and heartsore as they were ; he had seen 



STANLEY'S TRIUMPHANT MARCH. 365 

the last companion of his own race gwept away by the remorseless 
Congo, it was on him that the responsibility of the whole expedition 
rested; but the indomitable spirit which was lacking in the " untutored 
mind" of the black men bore him up and gave him strength to utt«r 
words of encouragement to them. 

They arrived at the village of Nsanda Augmrt 4 ; the chief seemed 
kindly and pleasant. He informed the new-comer that he had fre- 
quently been to Borna, that he carried ground-nuts there and exchanged 
them for rum. Suddenly Stanley asked him if he would carry a let- 
ter to Boma, and allow three men of the expedition to accompany hinL 
He pjromised to send two of his young men, and Stanley wrote his 
letter— an apjxjal "To any Gentleman who speaks English at Embom- 
ma" for such help as was needed— food for immediate use, and cloth 
with which to purchase further supplies. Uledi, Kacheche, and two 
others, one of whom was a pupil of the Universities' Mission at Zan- 
zibar, and was to act as interpreter, volunteered for the journey; and 
two guides were furnished by the chief. 

The exi>edition marched on more slowly, finding it impossible to 
procure food where they were; "Wait for the market days," they 
were told. Two days later, while they were encamped near Banza 
Mbuko, and Stanley was thoroughly sick at heart because of the dis- 
tress of his starving people, the messengers returned, brining with 
them rice, sweet potatoes and fish in generous quantities for all hands, 
and rum and tobacco in smaller quantities, to be dealt out by the master; 
with such luxuries as wheaten bread, butter, tea, coffee, loaf-sugar, 
jam, sardines, salmon, plum-pudding, ale, sherry, port and champagne 
for the white man who had left all these behind him three years be- 
fore. 

GKErmrG the vax op civiuzatios. 

Messengers were dispatched bearing the hearty thanks of the now 
well-fed men, and then the main body again took up the line of march. 
August 9, 1S77, they prepared to greet the "van of civilization," the 
999th day after their departure from Zanzibar. Of the welcome which 
there awaited him at the hand* of thos<? who had so promptly and 



STAXLErS TRIl'MFHAXT MARCH. 

g--eiierc"a5hr respc'iidei to Ms zzz>e3.-. ■K"e reed nox speai: ooir stoiy dra'w^ 
to a e]<»de as the gsimt and iray-iroiB mes descend the slope toward tbe 
vMfe tomn of Btiesa, asd start vi& soiprise as t^ey see a steams' an- 
<^ored in tbe Inoad Ihowh irrer. 

H-ere ti^ rp'naased two days; and then fr :-t if i i -^ t .tT 03 
t>iia str.;.iLrr " 'Z ^ii. Ihe fiAiifsg! of :_;-_7 ^t1_' t:- :: :_t tI- 
'. b'tau^ hae for souse ti: t 

~ " T-'anhar before saEiz - 7 

-; i tiioD^ he ciiose : 1 ^ - 

: - r r as &e Cape of G. : 1 31;-:^ - :_ :: — 

" _ ~ - - : riy lo<Aaii» f OTwar i t L l_t- Yel 

T ' 7 _ - T _ - ^:Li sot mmnndfol of t- ^ -' - ' 

_T " ~ TT ere sorrowfnl, and gu; . . 

ii^ ; - . .T vas =0, ihst they hearts — t : 7 - : -^ : ^ ; . - _ ; - ; ; 

sbosjt to leaTe thean wM3e tlsey were still far from tiaeir h<M}es; and 
it Ttso]-^ ^HEpaiiy tflaan on ^l»e royage from Cape T : ~t - I ^ 

labar. X -' they anired at the end of tibeir reten 

and Deee^ _ ^i^ paid off all Ms men and also what ~ 
the sarvtiisis relatires of tht^e who had not retmrDed, > _ -~~ r~ - 
fearked for Zi - : 1 : A joiimey throi^ the Daik Continie- ~ = ::: 
tike ferr r±ir _ --- '-.'.ry of the woiM, an aeeonqfished i2.:z. 



CRAPTER XXI. 

RETURN OF COL ROOSEVELT FROM THE JUNGLH. 
By Pete2 ilAcQox>-, F. E. G. S. 

Bemarkable Beputation He Made as a llaa, a Eanter and a Statesman — ^Ifce Eves of the 
Wtole World on Ttis Great American, His Speeches and Striking Personality— Wn« I 
Found Out in Tyavelling Over the United States — A Glimpse Into tlie Future. 

Cocjnii; 1310. i3 I- E. Psi:^«r 

WITH a back-ground of a thousand miles of jungle, ■where roam 
the animals of the Pleistocene Age; surrounded by hunters, 
poachers and cannibals; bearing the trophies of the most 
remarkable chase in history, the brilliant and popular es-president of 
the United States emerged from darkest Africa at Grondokoro. Hiis 
party had killed nearly 7,000 wild animals and birds, he had tramped 
and hungered and hunted in the vast forests of Uganda and the bound- 
less plains of British East Africa. He had been a Frenchman to the 
French, a German to the Teuton, and an ideal English gentleman to 
the British subjects wherever he met them. 

The picturesque and fascinating personality of CoL Theodore Eoose- 
velt had been felt over every inch of United States territory for the 
whole year that he was in Africa. "^Hiether statesmen legislated, or 
politicians plotted, or writers drove an itching pen, all these things 
were done with reference to the career and the power and influence of 
the great African hunter. He had been a man who could not be brow- 
beaten or bought ; and who would not crook the hinges of his knees that 
thrift might follow fawning. He had given to democrat and repub- 
lican, to Catholic and Protestant, to southern man and northern man. 
to white and black, a fair show and a square deal whilst for seven years 
he had occupied the most exalted position in the world. 

Eoosevelt was looked for in Africa when I visited the British East 
Africa Protectorate a year before his arrival. The American ivory 
merchants were expecting his coming, the English and German military 
and civil oflScers were vying with each other in speaking kind words and 
expressing hospitable sentiments. The Frenchmen were bewailing the 

367 



368 RETURN OF COL. ROOSEVELT. 

fact that there were no lions, leopards, elephants and rhinoceri in Mad- 
• agascar, the French Colony. One day I visited the harbour of Mombasa 
and went on board a French steamer from Madagascar. A young 
French professor on the boat was reading very earnestly a big yellow 
book. I said, "Professor, what book is that you are reading?" and he 
replied in French "La Vie Intense." I asked him what that title meant 
in English and he replied in surprise "Vous etes Americaine," you not 
to know the Life Strenuous of one grand French Gentleman, le President 
Roosevel: Ah he is one grand man for France, Oh my France, my 
country, it is a ruin by the not to have of the life strenuous." I had 
not been five minutes in the German Club until a young German officer 
said to me in broken English: "Vil dot Herr President Eoosenveld 
mit der Kaiser hier comin, Denken Zie?" And when a German officer 
mentions any man's name in connection with the Kaiser's you may 
know in what high esteem the man is held. On the other hand to the 
Englishmen of Central Africa Mr. Roosevelt was not a German or 
Frenchman but a typical English country squire. He was a university 
graduate, a sportsman of sportsmen and a statesman who could not be 
bribed or bullied— these are the three characteristics of the typical 
English gentleman. 

And so this strange and buoyant boy, whom no amount of hard work, 
political grind and literary drudgery could tame or chasten, went 
through Africa like some magic white man. To the managers of the 
railway, to the missionaries in their difficult and thankless work, whose 
lives had grown monotonous and wearisome, to the English rulers on 
the frontier of empire to the black man emerging from 10,000 years of 
barbarism, came this gay, light-hearted boyish hunter who had deserted, 
for a holiday in the jungle, one of the mightiest places in the seats of 
the mighty. 

The return of Mr. Roosevelt to civilization was dramatic, pictur- 
esque and characteristically informal. The newspaper reporters said 
that he appeared on board the English steamer bare footed with yellow 
trousers and a red shirt. But this is probably an exaggeration. The 
real truth seems to be that the Colonel landed at Khartoum in the khaki 
suit he wore upon his famous hunt. He had been away from America 
a year. Wonderful to say in that whole twelvemonth he had given 
voice to no opinion whatever upon American politics. Though his fame 
as a lion killer had gone into history with that of Hercules and Theseus, 



RETURN OF COL. ROOSEVELT. 369 

though the stories of his hunting had become a household word in the 
civilized world, he had made no remark whatever upon the work of his 
successor at Washington; he had raised no voice, he had made no 
protest against the most unpopular tariff measure ever passed by the 
government of the United States. His own great Eepublican Party 
and his own friend and candidate, in speeches and platforms had an- 
nounced to the United States and to the world that they would revise 
the tariff downward. The new tariff had become law and nearly every 
dutiable article had been increased in price; the duty was taken off 
radium, and put on women's gloves. The tariff tinkers might as well 
have taken the duty of Halley's Comet in order to put it on Woollens. 

Mr. Roosevelt while in the jungle was practically dead. He illus- 
trates the great example that only after a man is dead do his country- 
men appreciate his sterling qualities. A year after his death the 
ex-president appears at Khartoum and receives a welcome from his 
countrymen and from the world such as Gordon might have received 
if he had appeared in England after the fall of the Gladstone cabinet. 
The party to which Mr. Eoosevelt belongs had become hopelessly 
divided. No man in the councils of the party could bring order out of 
chaos. No man was strong enough and brave enough and honest 
enough to look half the nation in the face and tell it that it lied. But 
there was a growing idea that the sun-browned hunter on the Nile was 
the one man that could save the party and perhaps the nation from very 
grave mistakes, and even from national calamities. 

It was surprising how men who had hated and denounced Mr. 
Eoosevelt, begani to make a claim upon the people's sympathy by say- 
ing "I was the first man to adopt the Eoosevelt policies." Or how 
opposition to Eoosevelt in some quarters of the country was construed 
be the equivalent of treason to the republican party and even of dis- 
loyalty to the nation's best interests. 

It would be an interesting study for the psychologist and the states- 
man to trace out just why and how this tremendous power has come to 
Mr. Eoosevelt. The ex-president of course must be a man of unusual 
intellectual and moral talents. His private life has never even been 
questioned by his bitterest enemies. In his public career no man can 
point to a single instance of the slightest deviation from absolute 
honesty. The worst his foes could say about him was that he was rash 
and impetuous, or egotistic and, arbitrary, but no man anywhere has 



370 RETURN OF COL. ROOSEVELT. 

dared to point a finger at Theodore Roosevelt and say that in any re- 
spect his character ever fell below the level of the highest and mo^ 
courageous type of Christian manhood that our country has to-day. 

I have been in sixteen states this winter lecturing on my trip across 
Central Africa where the Roosevelt party has hunted. I visited 120 
towns and cities from Boston to Denver and from Philadelphia to 
Duluth and in not one place did I find the slightest opposition to Mr. 
Roosevelt. In the middle west nearly every man I met had already in 
his mind nominated and elected him for president in 1912. During my 
winter work there was just one discordant note. It was a letter I re- 
ceived from 53 Wall Street, New York City, and it said in effect : ' ' You 
had no business to^ speak so flatteringly in a public lecture about 
Theodore Roosevelt, a discarded politician." This letter is sufficiently 
answered by the events of the last two months. At Khartoum the 
Roosevelt party was received by the English government with the 
greatest and most distinguished honor. It was noticeable that the 
Sirdar of the Sudan, Sir Reginald Wyngate, took Mr. Roosevelt first 
to the Gordon tree named after the famous Chinese Gordon whose 
lamentable death at Khartoum is part of the thrilling history of Egypt. 
The ex-president visited the battlefield of Omdurman and doubtless, in 
an honorable way, envied Lord Kitchener the brilliant gloiy of that 
famous victory. He doubtless showed the English officers just how he 
would have posted the Rough Riders at the fatal Donga where the 
lancers fell. The Sirdar visited, with the ex-president, the battlefield 
where he himself destroyed the jjower of the Mahdi. The Gordon 
College at Khartoum and the Missionary station not far away were 
visited. The missionaries of all denominations in Africa received high 
praise and great encouragement from the man who himself is earnestly 
religious. 

One of the admirable traits in Mr. Roosevelt's character is his deep 
and abiding faith in revealed religion. He laid the foundation stone 
for a missionary building at Kijabe in the Rift Valley at the American- 
African Inland Mission. The Rev. Dr. Hurlburt and his wife did the 
hospitable honors and the ex-president in making a speech to the Amer- 
ican missionaries (who by the way are non-denominational), gave it 
as his opinion that there was no better, safer or more practical work 
being done in the uplift of the natives than that done by missionaries. 
While his enthusiasm was great for religious work it did not end there, 



RETURN OF COL. ROOSEVELT. 371 

for at the banquets given him by the business men and the government 
ofiScials at Nairobi he took occasion to express his gTeat admiration for 
the English rule and the English pioneers in equatorial Africa. But he 
added a note of warning to the effect that the white men of Africa would 
be more successful in every line of life, if all the Caucasian race there 
tried to help and to understand one another. The pioneers he said 
should help the government, the government should try to understand 
the pioneers, and both should aid and sjTnpathize with the missionary 
in his grand, unselfish work. Nothing impressed me more than his 
praise of the Catholic nuns, whom I had met in Uganda; his offer to 
lecture in behalf of mission work, and his estimate of Mother Paul, an 
American missionary at Kampala— that she was the strongest char- 
acter he had met in Central Africa. 

Now it has been remarkable to me that Mr, Eoosevelt could talk so 
plainly to these men in Central Africa without giving th«m the slight- 
est offence or in any way seeming to be using bad taste in discussing 
the internal problems of the land that was entertaining him. But such 
is the magnetic quality of the man that he goes right ahead and says 
what he thinks; and where other men might give grievous umbrage, 
Mr. Eoosevelt 's words are taken as those of a wise statesman, a kindly 
friend and a good fellow. 

In Uganda the ex-president was equally popular. Six months before 
he reached that Protectorate I passed through the native capital of 
Kampala, the little native king Dauda Chwa, David the First, a grand- 
son of the great Mtesa who entertained Stanley, showed me a map of 
Uganda he had made for the use of the hunting party. The boy king 
had marked the places where the biggest elephants could be found. The 
missionaries were asking about the coming visit and even the natives 
were already beginning to speak of Bwana Makuba, the Big Master; 
for they had heard the magic of his name and were sure he was some 
supernatural character that was going to appear in their country. And 
it is indeed wonderful, and not wanting in the element of mystery and 
magic, the fact that Mr. Roosevelt passed through the tsetse fly district, 
the fever swamps, and the lion haunted jungles without so much as a 
scratch, a cough, a cold or a fever. I saw him myself after the battle 
of Santiago when out of 450 Rough Riders only 121 reported for duty. 
He was gay and buoyant- ajid when I asked him how he felt he replied, 



372 RETURN OF COL. ROOSEVELT. 

"Ob. splendidly, never felt better in my life. If I could only get food 
and medicine for my men, I would be absolutely bappy." 

At Kbartoum the Egyptian students listened to a speecb from Mr. 
Roosevelt. He told tbem wbat is an absolutely certain fact tbat in 
12 years the Sudan, under British rule, had advanced more than any 
other country on the globe. He advised them to stick by the govern- 
ment that was doing so much to develop their country and give them 
all an equal chance ; and to the men who came from the Christian mis- 
sions, he characteristically said: "Be such a Christian that anybody 
who sees you will know that Christianity is a religion second to none." 
It was a strange historic and fascinating moment when this djTiamic, 
kinetic and enthusiastic statesman of the west stood here beside the 
classic river Nile, and looked on its waters as they flowed away north 
to the Mediterranean. The Egyptian national party took offence at 
Eoosevelt's warm appreciation of the English government. Neverthe- 
less the genial and self-assured hunter went through Cairo, the centre of 
the Egyptian nationalist movement, and was on every side the con- 
quering hero. This remarkable faculty of fitting in with all classes and 
conditions of men, even with those radically opposed to him, is such an 
unusual characteristic that through it Mr. Eoosevelt wields a wonder- 
ful power. - "•■- 

In this country he is perhaps almost as popular in the democratic 
party, among the average voters, as he is in the republican. The Cath- 
olics tell me that no president in the history of America has treated their 
denomination with more eminent fairness and sanity. We have a good 
example of this in Mr. Eoosevelt's visit to Uganda. At Kampala, 
Uganda there are two great missions— one of these is the Catholic 
mission at Nysambya. Among other workers in this mission the ex- 
president found a self-sacrificing and devoted woman, an American 
named Mother Paul, who has her rooms all draped with American flags. 
In his generous and enthusiastic way he at once volunteered to help 
her mission by giving a free lecture in America for the benefit of the 
institution. A few days later the hunters were invited to the Church 
of England mission at Namirambe. The ex-president was at the open- 
ing of a new medical missionary station there. He spoke to the 
assembled dignitaries of the English Church in his usual plain, frank, 
blunt, manly way. He told them he had just been to a Catholic mission 
and that the missionaries there had informed him of their deep debt 



RETURN OF COL. ROOSEVELT. 373 

to the medical doctor at tlie English mission He expressed his glad> 
ness at finding the Catholics and Protestants working side by side in 
deepest Africa and doing such a splendid work. He had heard that 
500,000 of the natives are members of the Christian Church and that 
more than half a million of them can read and write the English 
language. 

When Roosevelt came down the Nile to the Lado Enclave at the 
borders of Belgian territory, it is said that all the wild rovers, hunters 
and poachers in the great ivory country of the Congo, sent a delegation 
to him, inquiring whether he would not join an expedition and be its 
chief. One of the remarkable and fascinating pictures that comes to 
the mind in the return of Roosevelt to civilization is his trip down the 
Nile. 

Surely no personage in history, not even excepting Napoleon Bona- 
parte, has ever brought to Egypt a more romantic and impressive 
personality. Here was a product of Harvard's best culture, a ruler 
who had handled problems alongside of which the granaries of Joseph, 
the aiTuies of Menes and the unrivalled cavalry of Napoleon were but 
as children playing with toys. One might have seen besides the sculp- 
tured walls of Luxor, a brown-faced, cheerful, vigorous man of fifty, 
quite unspoiled by world-wide renown and universal popularity, riding 
a camel and laughing and chatting with his donkey boys. Yet no great 
king who has ever ruled the Nile, and no powerful ruler who has built 
pyramids and erected obelisks has ever had one-hundredth part the 
power or has ever known how to wield that power so well as this same 
laughing, cheerful, bright-faced man. To everybody he seems to have 
been as affable as a young college graduate. To his old guide Cunning- 
hame at Khartoum, he gave both gifts and money. And to every one 
of the black untutored men who in patience and good heart had taken 
the white man's burden across hundreds of miles of scorching plains 
and gloomy forests, he gave not only a kind and hearty farewell but a 
substantial financial reward. No wonder that the black men went back 
into the forest saddened at the loss of Bwana Makuba, the Big Master, 
who had followed them to the hunt, who had waded the streams and 
threaded the forest with as much primeval joy as any native warrior 
ever did, and who in all his relations to them had been the fair and just 
master, a man who would not impose upon them and who while he was 
with them, would allow no man to do them wrong. 



374 RETURN OF COL. ROOSEVELT. 

And now from the glistening sands of Egypt, from the glory of the 
pyramids, and the mysterious shadow of the sphinx he goes to Europe 
to be feted by kings and emperors, and to arouse in Europe the same 
enthusiasm and interest that he has aroused in Africa. The question 
seems to be in every man's mind, what will Mr. Roosevelt do when he 
returns to America? He will find a nation torn and racked by many 
divided councils. Thoughtful men are beginning to feel that Carlyle 
may have had some reason in saying that ' ' Democracy is a self-cancel- 
ling business." It may become necessary in our age and coimtry to 
elect a man like Roosevelt to the Presidency for life. The constant 
change in presidents seems to cause so much heartburning and produce 
so much ambition as to lead men away from the true purpose for which 
they were elected. I have never until recently believed that Macaulay 
might be right when he wrote the following sentence: "The day will 
come when in the State of New York a multitude of people, none of 
whom has had more than half a breakfast or expects to have more than 
half a dinner, will choose a legislature. Is it possible to doubt what 
sort of a legislature will be chosen? Either some Caesar or Napoleon 
will seize the reins of govermnent with a strong hand or your republic 
will be as fearfully plundered and laid waste by barbarians in the 
twentieth century as the Roman empire was in the fifth ; with this dif- 
ference that the Huns and Vandals who ravaged the Roman Empire 
came from the outside and that your Huns and Vandals will have been 
engendered within your own country by your own institution." -> 

These remarkable words by Lord Macaulay the historian may have 
no foundation in the facts of our country at present but there certainly 
have been many happenings within the last three years that give them 
at least significance. Probably no one will dream of electing Roose- 
velt to be our President during the course of liis natural life. That is 
an extravagance in which no man at the present moment will indulge. 
But that some strong and firm and honest hand must lay its grasp upon 
our politics in the next few decades is the honest assumption of many 
thoughtful citizens. Otherwise we will have immense national calam- 
ities. When Roosevelt returns he will very likely sustain President 
Taft as long as he reasonably can. I make no doubt at all that he will 
go into the middle west, that he will be popular with the insurgents, 
that he will take strong, advanced groimd on conservation of our 
national resources. He will doubtless be returned to the Senate or else 



RETURN OF COL. ROOSEVELT. 875 

elected speaker of the house, and he will in the opinion of many people 
without doubt be the next president of the United States. 

The ex-president's visit to the King of Italy, the Kaiser,, the Presi- 
dent of France and the King of England, his powerful popularity with 
the great and strong rulers of the world will exalt him into a diplomatic 
place in An^-^rican politics altogether and absolutely unique. His year 
in the wilderness of Africa has no doubt revived and refreshed him 
mentally ard physically, and he will doubtless be a stronger man, a 
more virile thinker, a more sane and judicious statesman than he has 
ever been before. Of all the men or statesmen whom the Spanish- 
American war brought +•:• the front, Roosevelt alone retains an immense 
popularity and universal regard. He left the country while his party 
was enraged at him and ''/ow his party stretches beseeching hands to 
him across the sea and asks him to come back and save its life. No 
man in our history has ever attained such popularity during his life 
time as Mr. Eoosevelt, and this popularity I think comes from the 
immense appeal that his very decided and extremely American person- 
ality makes upon the average voter in our land. I have seen him in a 
single half hour discuss some red hot question with a senator from a red 
hot senate ; then some question of international law with a statesman 
from Japan; then an interview with a professor on Birds, Beetles and 
Butterflies; then a discussion on Religion and Temperance; and then 
I have received from him myself a discourse on travel; and all that 
happened in one short thirty minutes. 

Eoosevelt to my mind is not either a republican or a democrat. He 
is more nearly an insurgent-socialist though he would never admit it 
himself, and would doubtless be very much displeased if anyone should 
tell him so. He entertains no fantastic dreams about the absolute 
equality of men. He knows and says so on every occasion, that only 
useful and independent men are desirable citizens. He has told me 
that he would never in the world take the slightest advantage of such 
a country as Venezuela; nor would he on the other hand allow Vene- 
zuela to repudiate its just debts to England, Germany or America. He 
told me he would rather have his son Kennit teaching in a mission in 
Charlestown than at the head of his class in the Harvard university. 
He said to me one day: "Mr. MacQueen, the best thing a man can give 
his son is not money nor the reputation of being the son of a president ; 
the best thing a man can leave his son is an untarnished name." 



376 RETURN OF COL. ROOSEVELT. 

Elbert Hubbard of East Aurora, who does not admire Eoosevelt 
too much, said to me the other day: "Peter, I don't believe there is 
one dishonest bone in Roosevelt's body. I think he is a mediaeval man. 
I think he believes in an absolute hell, and in the trinity and in every- 
thing that he upholds, and he believes tremendously in himself. I think 
Roosevelt cares nothing for money, but he loves his career and will do 
nothing wrong or dishonest because greatness and honesty and power 
are the ideals of his life." These are good words and this is enormous 
praise from one who really does not love you. We have not heard the 
last of Theodore Roosevelt, we have scarcely yet heard the beginning. 



P^tXeX yKaC Q_A./OLi2^' 



CHAPTER XXII. 
COL ROOSEVELT'S TRIUMPHANT TRIP THROUGH EUROPE 

The Ex-President Makes a Memorable Speech in Cairo, Egypt — Visits the Pyramids and 
Sphinx — Embarks for Italy — Feted and Dined by the King of Italy — Col. Roosevelt's Own 
Statement of Why He Did Not Visit the Pope. 

By J. T. Thompson. 

After leaving Luxor in Egypt the Eoosevelt party, wbich now con- 
sisted of the Colonel, Mrs. Eoosevelt, Miss Ethel and Kermit, spent 
several days sight-seeing at many of the more important places in 
Egypt. Everywhere the party stopped they were the guests of the 
representatives of the British Government which holds a protectorate 
over Egyi)t. The journeys consisted of camel rides to the tombs of 
Egypt's Ancient Kings, and ruins of cities that flourished over 3,000 
years ago. With that strenuousness which has always characterized 
Col. Eoosevelt, he entered into all of the events planned for his enter- 
tainment and early every morning was mounted on a camel or an 
Arabian horse or sometimes on a donkey to ride across the desert to 
view some of the wonders of this land of many wonders. 

On March 24, 1910, the party arrived at Cairo, Egypt, which was 
lavishly decorated in honor of Col. Eoosevelt. An enormous throng 
had gathered at the station and when the Colonel appeared from his 
car he was given a rousing ovation. There were hundreds of American 
Tourists in the crowds but there were also thousands of the swarthy 
natives and they gave the ex-President a welcome that in cordiality 
and enthusiasm surpassed that ever received by any other foreigner. 

Abbas Hilmi, the Khedive, (Euler of Egypt) paid Col. Eoosevelt a 
great honor by sending the State Coach toi his hotel to convey him to 
Abdin Palace where he was entertained. This State Coach is only used 
when Eoyalty visits the Khedive. Mrs. Eoosevelt was entertained by 
the Khediva at the same time in another part of the palace. 

In the evening the entire party left for a visit to the Pyramids. 
The night was wondrously clear and with a brilliant silver moon light- 
ing up the heavens they reached the silent sentinels of the desert, three 

377 



378 COL. ROOSEVELT'S TRIP THROUGH EUROPE. 

huge ghostlike Pyramids that have stood for ages. A short distance 
and the party found themselves face to face with the Sphinx. For up- 
wards of 5,000 years, through ancient and modern times, from the days 
of Julius Caesar, Marc Anthony, Cleopatra and Napoleon the unfathom- 
able eyes of this wonderful image have gazed across the centuries of 
time. Here in the bright Egyptian moonlight, in the silence and mystery 
of the desert, Theodore Roosevelt stood and gazed at this stolid image 
just as the great men of history had done. What did he think? Every 
traveler says the impenetrable face of the Sphinx has a peculiar in- 
fluence over all. 

One of the unusual receptions given Colonel Roosevelt in Cairo was 
the American one. Five hundred Americans who were visiting in that 
city met him by appointment and had a regular American hand-shaking 
time. The Colonel was very pleased to meet so many of his own coun- 
trymen and women. 

Shortly before leaving Egypt for Italy Col. Roosevelt made a speech 
to the students of the University of Cairo. This speech was looked 
forward to by many of the leading men of Egj-pt for it was known that 
the Colonel had made a careful study of conditions in Egypt and would 
probably handle the subject in his own blunt, forceful way. The Colonel 
told the students the principles of good citizenship and as an instance 
of bad citizenship he unmercifully lashed the man who had assassinated 
the Prime Minister of Egypt for political reasons a short time before. 
This speech in some native papers was condemned, but in general it 
was praised and it was said that it would be of lasting good to Egj'pt. 

On April 2 the Roosevelt party arrived at Naples, Italy. Here 
another gi'eat crowd had gathered to see "The great American" as he 
was called. During the ride from the boat to the hotel Col. Roosevelt 
raised his hat smilingly, bowed right and left in acknowledgment of 
the repeated cheers. 

On April 4th Mr. Roosevelt was received by King Victor Emmanuel 
at the Quirinal— The Royal Palace. The occasion gave an opportunity 
for another exhibition of the admiration of the public for the former 
president and the popular interest in his movements. The hour of his 
reception being known, a number of persons gathered to greet him on 
his way from the hotel to the royal palace. 

As he alighted from his carriage at the Quirinal the cuirassiers 
forming the bodyguard of the king gave Mr. Roosevelt a military salute. 
A footman in blue velvet knickerbockers and red coat covered with gold 



COL. ROOSEVELT'S TRIP THROUGH EUROPE. 879 

lace preceded him to the antechamber of his majesty, where he was 
received by Rear- Admiral Garelli, aid on duty Count Tozzoni and Duke 
Cito, master of ceremonies. 

Immediately afterward the honored gnest was escorted to the door 
of the king's apartment, which when thrown open revealed his majesty 
standing with arms outstretched and with a smile on his lips. His 
majesty wore the uniform of a general of the Italian army. His words 
of welcome, spoken in excellent English, were cordial. King Victor 
and Mr. Eoosevelt shook hands heartily, the monarch inviting the for- 
mer president to sit at his side. Then the door of the apartment was 
closed and the two remained in private conversation about three- 
quarters of an hour. 

COL. Roosevelt's own reasons for not seeing the pope. 

The audience which Col. Eoosevelt expected to have with the Pope 
did not take place owing to conditions which the Vatican had imposed 
and which Mr. Roosevelt refused to accept. 

While at Cairo, Egypt, Col. Roosevelt cabled the American Am- 
bassador at Rome to arrange for an audience with His Holiness the 
Pope. He received the following reply: "The Holy Father will be 
delighted to grant an audience to Mr. Roosevelt, April the fifth and 
bopes that nothing will arise to prevent it, such as the much regretted 
incident which made the reception of Mr. Fairbanks impossible." (Vice 
President Fairbanks spoke in the pulpit of the Methodist College at 
Rome and his audience with the Pope was cancelled.) 

Mr. Roosevelt replied : 

"It would be a real pleasure to me to be presented to the Holy 
father, for whom I entertain high respect, both personally and as the 
head of a great church. I fully recognize his entire right to receive or 
not receive whomsoever he chooses, for any reason that seems good to 
him, and if he does not receive me I shall not for a moment question the 
propriety of his action. 

"On the other hand, I in turn must decline to make any stipulations 
or submit to any conditions which in any way would limit my freedom 
of conduct. I trust that on April 5 he will find it convenient to receive 
me. ' ' Theodore Roosevelt 

Ambassador Leishman replied: 

"The audience cannot take place except on the understanding ex- 
pressed in the former message." 



380 COL. ROOSEVELT'S TRIP THROUGH EUROPE. 

To Ambassador Leishman, Rome, Italy. 

"Tlie proposed presentation is, of course, now impossible." 

Theodore Eoosevelt. 

Ltman Abbott, Editor of the Outlook, New York. 

"Through the Outlook I wish to make a statement to my fellow 
Americans regarding what has occurred in connection with the Vatican. 
I am sure that the great majority of my fellow citizens, catholics quite 
as much as protestants, will feel that I acted in the only way possible 
for an American to act and because of this fact I most earnestly hope 
that the incident will be treated in a matter of course way as merely 
personal, and, above all, as not warranting the slightest exhibition of 
rancor or bitterness. 

"Among my best and closest friends are many catholics. The re- 
spect and regard of those of my fellow Americans who are catholics are 
as dear to me as the respect and regard of those who are protestants. 

"On my journey through Africa I visited many catholic as well as 
many protestant missions. As I look forward to telling the people at 
home all that has been done by protestants and catholics alike, as I saT\j 
it, in the field of missionary endeavor, it would cause me a real pang 
to have anything said or done that would hurt or give pain to my 
friends, whatever their religious belief. But any merely personal con- 
siderations are of no consequence in this matter. The important con- 
sideration is the avoidance of harsh and bitter comment such as may 
excite mistrust and anger between and among good men. 

"The more an American sees of other countries the more profound 
must be his feelings of gratitude that, in his own land there is not merely 
complete toleration, but the heartiest good will and sympathy between 
sincere and honest men of different faiths— good will and sympathy so 
complete that in the innumerable daily relations of our American life 
catholics and protestants meet together and work together without 
thought of the difference of creed being even present in their minds. 

"This is a condition so vital to our national well-being that nothing 
should be permitted to jeopardize it. Bitter comment and criticism, 
acrimonious attack and defense, are not only profitless but harmful^ 
and to seize upon such an incident as this as an occasion for controversy 
would be wholly indefensible and should be frowned upon by catholics 
and protestants alike, and by all good Americans. ' ' 

Theodore Roosevelt. 



ROOSEVELT'S TRIP THROUGH EUROPE. 381 

COL. ROOSEVELT RENEWS HONEYMOON. 

On April 6th, Col. and Mrs. Roosevelt left Eome in a carriage to 
drive over the same route that they followed twenty-four years ago 
when they were bride and groom. It was intended to spend four days 
making the trip, but cut the ride short because of the attention they 
attracted. They reached Porto Maurizio where they were joined by 
Kermit and Ethel and were the guests of Miss Caron a sister of Mrs. 
Eoosevelt. This town has a population of 5000 but there were fully 
10,000 people on hand to greet the American visitor, and the welcome 
he received was the greatest in the history of the town. Soldiers, 
bands playing Yankee airs, children scattering flowers in his path 
and the whole assemblage cheering. Banners "Eoosevelt Forever" and 
"Long Live Eoosevelt" were everywhere. As the Colonel's cari'iage 
passed through the streets it was pelted with flowers. 

On April 13th, the Colonel, accompanied by Kermit left for Milan, 
Italy, on his way to Venice where he arrived at 2 :30 in the morning. 
Consul Eeed, Captain Long and a squad of gendarmerie met the party 
at the station. 

The colonel took the Consul 's motor boat and rode under the Eialto 
Bridge and down the Grand Canal. The starlight and inky blackness 
of the fluid streets, the palaces and facades exercised their magic fas- 
cination on all. A motor boat seemed out of place. The party was 
taken to the Hotel Britannia. 

Colonel Eoosevelt was up early and plunged into his mail. At 9 
o'clock the Marchesi Durazzo, aide of the Duke d'Abruzzi, called with 
a launch. The colonel refused the unromantic motor boat and decided 
on -a gondola. The day was disappointingly overcast, but dry, giving 
the beauties of Venice more somber tones. 

The gondola passed beside palaces through glorious tinted water- 
ways. The first stop was at CoUeon's equestrian statue, the most per- 
fect in the world. The next stop was at St. Marks, where the colonel 
saw the famous lions and the pigeons. He examined the mosaics hur- 
riedly but carefully. 

At the Doges' palace he stopped contemplatively in front of the 



382 ROOSEVELT'S TRIP THROUGH EUROPE. 

columns of the balcony where in the ancient days death to the enemies 
of the republic was proclaimed. Inside a director was astonished at 
Mr. Eoosevelt's knowledge of Venetian art and history. 

Standing in front of the almost restored Campanile, Colonel Roose- 
velt exclaimed: "Wonderful! Wonderful! if there was only one 
country outside of my own I would select Egypt to send my sons to see. 
If only one city it would be Venice. ' ' 

The gondola sped up the canal to the Academy, where the Colonel 
saw the Titians. He reached the hotel to meet the Duke d'Abruzzi, 
with whom he discussed the respective exploits. 

Another royal caller was the Austrian Archduke, traveling incognito 
as the Duke I'Este. Everj^vhere the Colonel went there were American 
flags. Crowds cheered him as he again left the hotel, where, owing to 
the rush, he did not see the Archduke. 

When the party reached the station to take a train for Vienna the 
police had difficulty keeping open a lane through the throng anxious to 
catch sight of America's distinguished citizen. As the train started 
there was a great outburst of cheering. 

imperiaij honoks foe col. eoosevelt. 

On April 15th, Col. Eoosevelt arrived in Vienna, Austria. As a 
special mark of his personal esteem the aged emperor-king, Franz 
Josef, received the Colonel in his private apartments at the impos- 
ing Hofburg palace instead of in the regular audience chamber. The 
monarch, who was attired in an imperial uniform, was extremely 
gracious to the American ex-president and kept him in conversation for 
thirty-five minutes. The Colonel afterward declined to reveal the 
slighest detail of the conversation. 

Emperor Franz Josef intended personally to return Col. Eoose- 
velt's call on his way out to the Schoenbrunn castle, where the monarch 
usually passes the night, and was only deterred from so doing by a 
sudden storm late in the afternoon. Therefore he was compelled to 
send his aid de camp. Such an honor as a return visit from the em- 
peror is extended only to reigning sovereigns. 

The call on the emperor was only the main feature of a busy day 



ROOSEVELT'S TRIP THROUGH EUROPE. 383 

■which began immediately after he reached his hotel early in the morn- 
ing with a breakfast with Henry White, former American ambassador 
to France. 

The day included an official visit to Count von Aehrenthal, the Aus- 
tro-Hungarian foreign minister, a call of courtesy upon Archduke 
Francis Ferdinand, the heir apparent to the throne at Belvidere palace, 
and a visit to the tombs of the Hapsburgs, where, under the guidance of 
a brown-cowled Capucine monk with a lighted taper in his hand, he laid 
wreaths on the tombs of Empress Elizabeth and Crown Prince 
Eudolph. A tour of inspection of the Spanish riding school founded by 
Charles VII. and the imperial Hussar barracks; a reception by the 
Austrian journalists and a gala dinner given in his honor at the for- 
eign office by Count von Aehrenthal. 

Col. Roosevelt used the imperial court carriage placed at his dis- 
posal by Emperor Franz Josef until his official calls had ended. Then 
he discarded it for the faster mode of traveling— the automobile. He 
enjoyed the exhibition at the riding school, where the celebrated Lip- 
pizzan breed of horses, a mixture of Spanish and Arab blood, per- 
formed the daintiest of evolutions, dancing the quadrille and finally 
coming on to the platform where the Colonel sat and circling his chair 
so close that their hoofs almost touched his feet. 

The newspapers of the capital united in giving a hearty welcome to 
Col. Roosevelt, saying they had special reasons for the friendliest feel- 
ings to one under whose presidency the relations between the dual mon- 
archy and the United States were always the most pleasant. 

Col. Roosevelt, at the gala dinner tonight, escorted to table the 
Countess Festetics, formerly Lady Mary Douglas Hamilton, once the 
wife of the prince of Monaco. Among the forty guests were many 
Royal Personages, famous hunters, statesmen and authors. 

Col. Roosevelt's program while in Vienna included an automobile 
trip to Count Wilczek's castle. Ambassador Kerens' luncheon at the 
Hotel Bristol, a visit to the international sporting exhibition, a court din- 
ner at the Schoenbrunn castle, a short visit to the imperial opera and 
a reception to the American colony at the embassy. 



384 ROOSEVELT'S TRIP THROUGH EUROPE. 

COL. ROOSEVELT IN HUNGAEY. 

On April 18th, Col. Roosevelt arrived at Budapest, Hungary, where 
he received a tremendous ovation. An event which will peculiarly ap- 
peal to the people of America was the meeting of the former president 
and Francis Kossuth, son of the distinguished Hungarian patriot. 

After a luncheon at the palace of Archduke Joseph of Austria, Mr. 
Roosevelt was conveyed by automobile to the home of Kossuth. Mr. 
Roosevelt was introduced to this man, whose name still spells great 
power, but Count Apponyi, former minister. Kossuth was ill, else un- 
doubtedly he would have called first on Mr, Roosevelt. 

Kossuth told Mr. Roosevelt immediately after the introduction 
that all Americans who came to Budapest called on him because of the 
veneration in which they had held his father. 

"I am ill, as you know," he said, "but I desired to see you so much 
that if you had not come to my house, I would have been conveyed to 
your hotel on a litter. All my life I was brought up in an atmosphere of 
liberty, as typified in America, and I have jDeculiar feelings of pleas- 
ure and sympathy toward your great country." 

Kossuth and Roosevelt conversed on the extraordinary changes 
which have occurred in Himgary, especially in Budapest, since 1848, 
Kossuth asserting that the changes were as great as those which have 
occurred in America, and showing tremendous enterprise on the part 
of the Hungarian people. 

The following day was passed as the guest of Minister of Agricul- 
ture Serenyi at the National Stock Farm, two hours' journey from 
Budapest, traveling on a train de luxe and receiving honors such as 
usually are conferi'ed upon sovereigns. 

At the railway station nearest the farm the party were met by four- 
in-hand coaches and driven through villages, where children threw ap- 
ple blossoms at Mr. Roosevelt and grown-ups doffed their hats and 
cheered. 

The drive gave an appetite for an old-fashioned country dinner, at 
which peasant belles in holiday costumes served native wines. After 
dinner the host and others made speeches eulogistic of Roosevelt. 



ROOSEVELT'S TRIP THROUGH EUROPE. 385 

The Arab stallions, for which the National Stud is famous, were 
shown off. Mr. Eoosevelt was enthusiastic and fed sugar to each of 
them. Then he viewed the herds of cows and sheep and pigs as they 
followed the picturesque shepards. 

A newly born Arabian filly was named Eoosevelt in honor of the 
visit, and was much admired. 

Returning, Mr. Roosevelt passed under two arches erected in his 
honor, and the peasants gave him another ovation. 

Crowds of Hungarians, so great that the police were especially de- 
tailed to restrain them, waited until one o'clock in the morning to give 
the Colonel a send off as he departed for Paris. 



25 



CHAPTER XXIII. 
ROOSEVELT IN THE EYE OF THE WORLD. 

Arrives in Paris, France, Guest of President of the Republic — Reviews Great Sham Battle — 
Speaks at Sorbonne — Great Reception in Holland — Honored in Belgium — Denmark — De- 
livers Noble Lecture in Norway and also Visits Sweden. 

ON April 21st, Col. Roosevelt arrived in Paris, France, French 
formality got a merry upset when Mr. Eoosevelt's train 
pulled into the station early in the morning. Many state 
dignitaries, some in gold-braided uniforms, others in silk hats 
and the formal garments that go with them, had been admitted through 
the crowd and to the platform, where they stood in a carefully arranged 
line awaiting presentation to the American. But the first thing they 
saw when the train stopped was the tanned and beaming countenance 
of the ex-president leaning far out of the window near the middle of 
the car. The reception line broke like a herd of startled deer. M. Le- 
pine, the "terrible" prefect of police, was jostled aside like a common 
gendarme. Ambassador Bacon was the first to greet Mr. Eoosevelt. 

"Well, Bob!" cried the ex-president, slapping Mr. Bacon on the 
shoulder, "How are you? Isn't this splendid? And Baron Takahira, 
my old friend ! ' ' 

The astonished French dignitaries, among them high officials of 
the French government, saw the man they had come to bid a formal 
welcome lift the smiling little Japanese and former ambassador to the 
United States off his feet and almost to the level of the car window. 

Ambassador Bacon seized the personal representative of President 
Falliers by the arm and dragged him forward to be presented. Then 
began at the car window such a reception as Paris may never see again 
•—a reception such as a schoolboy home for the holidays might have. It 

386 



ROOSEVELT IN THE EYE OF THE WORLD. 387 

stopped only when the colonel laughingly drew back from sight to ap- 
pear on the platform a moment later. 

In contrast to the formal morning costumes and glittering military 
uniforms about him Mr. Roosevelt wore a black felt hat, jammed and 
shapeless, and a baggy overcoat. But the shouts of the crowd were 
none the less deafening when it caught sight of him. 

It was a typical Paris spring morning, soft and gray. A display of 
American bunting greeted Mr. Roosevelt on his way to the American 
embassy. Tradespeople of the Rue de la Paix and the neighborhood of 
the Place de 1 'Opera had agreed at a meeting last evening to illuminate 
and decorate their buildings for the week. 

"We greet the great American statesman, proving our sym- 
pathy for his noble character and the country he i-epresents. " 

After formalities at the railway station were over, Mr. Roosevelt, 
Kermit Roosevelt, Mr. Bacon and M. Jesserand entered an automobile 
and were driven rapidly to the American ambassador's residence, 
where Mrs. Roosevelt and Miss Ethel were awaiting them. During the 
passage of their car through the streets Mr. Roosevelt was cheered fre- 
quently and several hundred persons who were waiting in front of the 
embassy greeted him with enthusiasm. 

Mr. Roosevelt passed the morning quietly at the embassy, taking 
luncheon there with Mr. Bacon and several of the former president's 
friends. 

CALLS ON THE PRESIDENT OF FEANCE. 

In the afternoon the official part of the programme began with calls 
on President Fallieres and Foreign Minister Pichon, who immediately 
afterward paid return visits to the embassy. In the evening the Roose- 
velt and Bacon families dined together and occupied the presidential 
box at the Comedio Francaise. 

Every seat and box stall in the theater had been sold days in ad- 
vance, the audience being an exceptionally brilliant one. 

When Col. Roosevelt entered the house between acts, accompanied 
by Mrs. Roosevelt, Miss Ethel Roosevelt, Kermit Roosevelt, and Am- 



388 ROOSEVELT IN THE EYE OF THE WORLD. 

bassador and Mrs. Bacon the house literally rose to its feet and there 
was an outburst of applause from the boxes, pit and gallery. 

For a full minute the Colonel made no response, but as the demon- 
stration continued he came forward and bowed his acknowledgments. 
The bill Sophocles' Greek tragedy, "(Edipus Kex," staged and 
acted as possible only at a French national theater. The Colonel 
seemed to enjoy it hugely, joining with the audience in the applause. 

At the end of each act, when Mounet-Sully, who played tlie title 
role, and the other performers responded, they advanced, as custom- 
ary when royalty is present, bowing profoundly ui the direction of the 
former president before turning to the audience. This seemed only 
to give additional pleasure to the audience, which in turn each time 
gave a fresh round of applause for Mr. Roosevelt. As the party left 
the building at the close of the performance rounds of cheers were 
given by the crowd outside. 

The Temps, one of the largest evening journals fairly reflected the 
tone of the entire French press, declaring that Roosevelt's tour of Eu- 
rope was unparalleled in history. 

"No democratic chief of state," says the paper, ever before en- 
joyed such popularity. We are accustomed to formal visits of kings 
and presidents, but Roosevelt was no longer president. It is the man, 
therefore, not the ofEce, which is being honored. It is his vigor, his per- 
sonality, his character, ideas, and temjaerament which appeals to Euro- 
pean opinion." 

After reviewing his career, the Temps concluded: "Few are more 
worthy of the esteem of the democracy, for he represents at the same 
time liberty and authority— those two antitheses which republicans, 
conscious of their duty and solicitous of the future, are everywhere 
trying to harness together." 

COL. EOOSEVELT VISITS TOMB OF NAPOLEON. 

On the following day Col. Roosevelt visited the tomb of Napolon. 
When the former president, accompanied by Kermit, M. Jesserand, 
French ambassador at Washington, and American Ambassador Bacon, 
arrived he was greeted by Gen. Dalstein, military governor of Paris. 



ROOSEVELT IN THE EYE OF THE WORLD. 389 

Passing into the claapel, where were seen the battered battle flags 
captured in the Napoleonic campaigns, Mr, Eoosevelt kept up a run- 
ning fire of comment, but when the rotunda was reached and he looked 
down upon the tomb of the conqueror surrounded with the flags and 
other reminders of the great victories of Austerlitz, Friedland, the 
pyramids, Jena, Marengo and Moscow, the former president grew 
silent. 

From the tomb Gen. Dalstein conducted the party to the Napoleon 
museum, where Mr. Roosevelt manifested intense interest in some of 
the personal relies of the French general and in the old prints of his 
principal campaigns. 

In the evening President and Mme. Fallieres gave a dinner at the 
Elysie palace in honor of Theodore Roosevelt. The entire palace was 
brilliantly illuminated and the republic guard lined the stairways. 
I In proposing Col. Roosevelt's health President Fallieres said: 

"I cannot allow the dinner to terminate without seizing the occasion 
to offer a toast to Theodore Eoosevelt— an illustrious man, who is at 
the same time a great citizen, a great friend of France, and a great 
friend of peace. I lift my glass also in honor of Mrs. Roosevelt, to 
whom goes out the homage of our respectful sympathy. I congratulate 
myself at being able to tell our guests how happy we are to receive and 
fete them." 

Col. Eoosevelt replied in French, saying he was profoundly touched 
by the words of President Fallieres. 

"Mrs. Roosevelt and I," he continued, "will never forget the wel- 
come we have received in France, especially from you, Mr. President. 

"Made to understand and love each other, our two countries have 
been friends from the beginning and no doubt will remain friends in the 
future. Every civilized man who comes to France learns something, 
because France is the cradle of modern civilization. Even today I have 
learned much, and one thing in particular which will appear in my lec- 
ture tomorrow." 

A SUMPTUOUS FEAST. 

The dishes which were served at this dinner were prepared by three 



390 ROOSEVELT IN THE EYE OF THE WORLD. 

of the most celebrated chefs in all Paris, which is noted the world over 
for its excellent and artistic cooks. Some of the articles served are as 
follows : 

Boned and Truffled Capons and Pheasants 

pressed and baked in pie crust in the form of 

roosters, with imitation feathers for decorations. 

Loin of Lamb Roasted Slowly for 5 Hours and Basted Every 10 Minutes 

Medaillion of Calves Sweet Breads 

Strangled Duckling 

Argentenil Asparagus ($6.00 per bunch) 

Very Large Strawberries at 30 Cents Each 

Peaches Costing $3.00 Each 
Hot House Grapes Costing $7.00 a Bunch 

The dish which Col. Roosevelt is said to have liked best was made as 
follows : 

A FAMOUS DISH. 

For each person— Fallieres and Roosevelt— the chef took six boned 
thrushes and prepared them, with bacon half-cooked in their intestines, 
mashed fresh pork passed through a strainer, the thrush meat. Cognac 
and Madeira, marmalade of truffles, teaspoonfuls of game stuffing and 
all the ingredients cherished as a happy secret in rich south of France 
families. He cooked them in a filmy crust ; and when the pie was ready 
the French president cut it in two honest halves. 

ROOSEVELT'S LECTURE AT THE SORBONNE. 

"citizenship in a bepublic." 

Theodore Roosevelt delivered his eagerly awaited lecture on ' ' Citi- 
zenship in a Republic" at the Sorbonne this afternoon. His audience 
was composed of all the members of the French cabinet, students se- 
lected from the University of Paris, and many guests, by whom the oc- 
casion was regarded as the most important feature of the American's 
visit to France. 

According to the custom of the Academy of Moral and Political 
Sciences, Mr. Roosevelt entered without formal presentation. Emile 
Boutroux, who presided, addressed the academy on the result of his 
observations on a recent visit to the United States as to the growth of 



ROOSEVELT IN THE EYE OF THE WORLD. 391 

education there. After describing the conflict between general educa- 
tion and specialization in studies and dwelling on the vast resources 
of the American universities, M. Boutroux took Col. Roosevelt's ideal 
as the highest type of man which American education sought to pro- 
duce, quoting frequently Roosevelt's own words in the exposition of 
his theme. 

From the doctrine that a man who accomplishes nothing and in- 
dulges only in criticism is a parasite deserving only scorn the speaker 
evolved Roosevelt's doctrine that man is born for action, to work and 
to struggle— in other words, for the strenuous life. He said the object 
of the American ideals enunciated by Roosevelt was the development 
of an American soul, one and inseparable, regardless of the differences 
of politics or religion. 

"It is our duty," said M. Bourtroux in conclusion, "to consider 
whether we cannot learn a lesson from contemporaneous America." 

The speech of M. Liard, vice-rector of the University of Paris, in in- 
troducing Col. Roosevelt, was felicitous. After thanking the American 
ex-president for accepting the invitation, M. Liard said the university 
wished its students to hear "the greatest voice of the new world, that 
of the man who speaks by action as well as words, giving to the world 
counsels of justice and energy— justice as the end and energy as the 
means." 

Turning to Mr. Roosevelt, M. Liard said: "You denounce the idle 
and the useless, but you combat also the mischiefmakers and the selfish. 
You do not separate morality from politics or right from force. You are 
a rough soldier, a pacific thinker and a man of action, a preacher of 
high virtue and a living example of the virtues you preach." 

America, the speaker added, recognized in Roosevelt the embodi- 
ment of its noblest traits, but in his journey across Europe the nations 
perceived in him something more— the representative of a larger ideal 
than that of country or of race— the champion of right and justice 
among the peoples. 

RECEIVES REMARKABLE OVATION. 

Although Mr. Roosevelt is entitled to wear the green, brocaded uni- 



392 ROOSEVELT IN THE EYE OF THE WORLD. 

form of an academician, he appeared in his familiar frock coat. He 
received a remarkable ovation in the Sorbonne. Every inch of room in 
the amphitheater was occupied and the lecturer was applauded repeat- 
edly and enthusiastically. Outside the building 25,000 people, massed 
in the streets, acclaimed the former president as he arrived and again 
when he departed. 

Col. Roosevelt's speech which was delivered with even more than 
his usual fervor was as follows : 

"Today I shall speak to you on the subject of individual citizenship, 
the one subject of vital importance to you, my hearers, and to me and 
my countrymen because you and we are citizens of great democratic 
republics. 

"With you here and with me in my own home, in the long run, suc- 
cess or failure will be conditioned, upon the way in which the average 
man, the average woman, does his or her duty, first in the ordinary, 
every-day affairs or life, and next in those great occasional crises which 
call for the heroic virtues. The average citizen must be a good citizen 
if our republics are to succeed. The stream will not permanently 
rise higher than the main source and the main source of national power 
and national greatness is found in the average citizenship of the na- 
tion." 

"It is not the critic who counts— not the man who points out how 
the strong man stumbles, or where the doer of deeds could have done 
better. The credit belongs to the man who is actually in the arena, 
whose face is marred by dust and sweat and blood; who strives val- 
iantly ; who errs, and comes short again and again, because there is no 
effort without error and shortcoming; but wh© does actually strive to 
do the deeds ; who knows the great enthusiasms, the great devotions ; 
who spends himself in a worthy cause; who at the best knows in the 
end the triumph of high achievement, and who at the worst, if he fails, 
at least falls while daring greatly, so that his place shall never be with 
those cold and timid souls who know neither %actory nor defeat. Shame 
on the man of cultivated taste who permits refinement to develop into 
a fastidiousness that unfits him for doing the rough work of a worka- 
day world. 



ROOSEVELT IN THE EYE OF THE WORLD: 393 

NO KOOM FOR DRONES. 

"There is little use for the being whose tepid soul knows nothing 
of the great and generous emotion, of the high pride, the stern beaef, 
the lofty enthusiasm, of the men who quell the storm and ride the thun- 
der. Well for these men if they succeed; well also, though not so well, 
if they fail, given only that they have nob'y ventured, and have put 
forth all their heart and strength. It is the war worn Hotspur, spent 
with hard fighting, he of the many errors and the valiant end, over 
whose memory we love to linger, not over the memory of the young lord 
who 'but for the vile guns would have been a soldier.' 

"I speak to a briLiant assemblage; I speak in a great university 
which represents the flower of the highest intellectual development; I 
pay all homage to intellect, and to elaborate and specialized training of 
the intellect ; and yet I know I shall have the assent of all of you present 
when I add that more important still are the commonplace, every day 
qualities and virtues. 

"Such ordinary, eveiy day qualities include the will and the power 
to work, to fight at need, and to have plenty of healthy children. * * * 

GREATEST OF ALL CURSES, STERILITY. 

"Even more important than ability to work, even more important 
than ability to fight at need, is to remember that the chief blessing for 
any nation is that it shall leave its seed to inherit the land. It was the 
crown of blessings in Biblical times ; and it is the crown of blessings 
now. The greatest of all curses is the curse of sterility, and the sever- 
est of all condemnations should be that visited upon wilful sterility. 
The first essential in any civiUzation is that the man and the woman 
shall be father and mother of healthy children, so that the race shall 
increase and not decrease. 

"If this is not so, if through no fault of thes society there is failure 
to increase, it is a great misfortune. If the failure is due to deliberate 
and wilful fault, then it is not merely a misfortune, it is one of those 
crimes of ease and self-indulgence, of shrinking from pain and effort 



394 ROOSEJ'ELT IN THE EYE OF THE WORLD. 

and risk, which in the long run Nature punishes more heavily than any 
other. 

" If we of the great republic, if we, the free people who claim to have 
emancipated ourselves from the thraldom of wrong and error, bring 
down on our heads the curse that comes upon the wilfully barren, then 
it will be an idle waste of breath to prattle of our achievements, to 
boast of all that we have done. No refinement of life, no delicacy of 
taste, no material progress, no sordid heaping up of riches, no sensuous 
development of art and literature, can in any way compensate for the 
loss of the great fundamental virtues ; and of these great fundamental 
virtues, the greatest is the race's power to perpetuate the race." 

THE MERE MILUtONAIBE. 

"Natural wellbeing represents nothing but the foundation," said 
Mr. Roosevelt, turning to the subject of great wealth. "The founda- 
tion, though indispensable, is worthless unless upon it is raised the 
superstructure of a higher life. , That is why I decline to recognize the 
mere multimillionaire, the man of mere wealth, as an asset of value to 
any great country; and especially as not an assest to my own country. 
If he has earned or uses his wealth in a way that makes him of real 
benefit, of real use— and such is often the case— why, then he does be- 
come an asset of worth. But it is the way in which it has been earned 
or used, and not the mere fact of wealth, that entitles him to the credit. 

' ' There is need in business, as in most other forms of human activ- 
ity, of the great guidiiig intelligences. Their places cannot be sup- 
plied by any nmnber of lesser intelligences. It is a good thing that 
they should have ample recognition, ample reward. But we must not 
transfer our admiration to the reward instead of to the deed rewarded ; 
and if what should be the reward exists without the service having been 
rendered, then admiration will come only from those who are mean of 
soul. 

' ' The truth is that, after a certain measure of tangible material suc; 
cess or reward has been achieved, the question of increasing it be- 
comes of constantly less importance compared to other things that can 



ROOSEVELT IN THE EYE OF THE WORLD. 395 

be done in life. It is a bad thing for a nation to raise and to admire 
a false standard of success ; and there can be no falser standard than 
that set by the deification of material wellbeing in and for itself. 

WEALTHY UNDESIRABLES. 

"The man who, for any cause for which he is himself accountable, 
has failed to support himself and those for whom he is responsible 
ought to feel that he has fallen lamentably short in his prime duty. But 
the man who having far surpassed the limit of providing for the wants 
both of body and mind of himself and of those depending upon him 
then piles up a great fortune for the acquisition or retention of which 
he returns no corresponding benefit to the nation as a whole should him- 
self be made to feel that, so far from being a desirable, he is an un- 
worthy citizen of the community; that he is to be neither admired nor 
. envied ; that his right-thinking fellow-countrymen put him low in the 
scale of citizenship and leave him to be consoled by the admiration of 
those whose level of purpose is even lower than his own." 

The speaker praised the gift of oratory, for "it is highly desirable 
that a leader of opinion in a democracy should be able to state his views 
clearly and convincingly. ' ' 

THE PHRASEMONGER. 

"But," he went on, "the phrasemaker, the phrasemonger, the ready 
talker, however great his power, whose speech does not make for cour- 
age, sobriety and right understanding is simply a noxious element in 
the body politic, and it speaks ill for the public if he has influence over 
them. To admire the gift of oratory without regard to the moral 
quality behind the gift is to do wrong to the Republic. 

"Of course all that I say of the orator applies with even greater 
force to the orator's latter-day and more influential brother, the jour- 
nalist. 

THE JOURNALIST. 

"The power of the journalist is great, but he is entitled neither 



396 ROOSEVELT IN THE EYE OF THE WORLD. 

to respect nor admiration because of that power unless it is used aright. 
He can do, and he often does, great good. He can do, and often does, 
infinite mischief. All journalists, all writers, for the very reason that 
they appreciate the vast possibilities of their profession, should bear 
testimony against those who deeply discredit it. 

"Offenses against taste and morals, which are bad enough in a pri- 
vate citizen, are infinitely worse if made into instruments for debauch- 
ing the community through a newspaper. Mendacity, slander, sen- 
sationalism, inanity, vapid triviality, all are potent factors for the de- 
bauchery of the public mind and conscience. The excuse advanced for 
vicious writing that the public demands it and that the demand must 
be supplied can no more be admitted than if it were advanced by the 
purveyors of food who sell poisonous adulterations." 

THE GOOD CITIZEN. 

Mr. Roosevelt told one anecdote from his own experience to point 
a moral : 

"Of one man in especial, beyond any one else, the citizens of a re- 
public should beware, and that is of the man who appeals to them to 
support him on the ground that he is hostile to other citizens of the 
Republic, that he will secure for those who elect hun, in one snape or 
another, profit at the expense of other citizens of the Republic. It 
makes no difference whether he appeals to class hatred or class in- 
terest, to religious or anti-religious prejudice. The man who makes 
such an appeal should always be presumed to make it for the sake of 
furthering his own interest. The very last thing that an intelligent 
and self-respecting member of a democratic community should do is to 
reward any public man because that public man says he will get the 
private citizen something to which this private citizen is not entitled, 
or will gratify some emotion or animosity which this private citizen 
ought not to possess. 

A STORY OF THE PLAINS. 

"A number of years ago I was engaged in cattle ranching on the 



" ROOSEVELT IN THE EYE OF THE WORLD. 397 

great plains of the western United States. There were no fences. The 
cattle wandered free, the ownership of each being determined by the 
brand; the calves were branded with the brand of the cows they fol- 
lowed. If on the round-up an animal was passed by, the following year 
it would apiDear as an unbranded yearling, and was then called a maver- 
ick. By the custom of the country these mavericks were bi'anded with 
the brand of the man on whose range they were found. 

"One day I was riding the range with a newly hired cowboy, and 
we came upon a maverick. We roped and threw it ; then we built a little 
tire, tool; out a cinch-ring, heated it at the tire, and the cowboy started 
to put on the brand, I said to him. 'It is So-and-So's- brand,' naming 
the man on whose range we happened to be. He answered, 'That's all 
right boss; I know my business.' In another moment I said to him 
'Hold on, you are putting on my brand!' To which he answered, 
'That's all right; I always put on the boss's brand.' I answered, 'Oh, 
very well. Now you go straight back to the ranch and get what is ow- 
ing to you; I don't need you any longer.' He jumjDed up and said, 
'Why, what's the matter? I was putting on your brand.' And I an- 
swered, 'Yes, my friend, and if you will steal for me you will steal 
from me.' 

"Now, the same principle which applies in private life applies also 

in public life. If a public man tries to get your vote by saying that he 

, will do something wrong in your interest, you can be absolutely certain 

that if ever it becomes worth his while he will do something wrong 

against your interest." 

Speaking of nations, Mr. Eoosevelt said : 

THE MOST USEFUX, NATION. 

"Just as I think that the man who loves his family is more apt to be 
a good neighbor than the man who does not, so I think that the most 
useful member of the family of nations is normal'y a strongly patriotic 
nation. So far from patriotism being inconsistent with a proper re- 
gard for the rights of other nations, I hold that the true patriot, who is 
as jealous of the national honor as a gentleman of his own honor, will 



398 ROOSEVELT IN THE EYE OF THE WORLD. 

be careful to see that the nation neither inflicts nor suffers wrong, just 
as a gentleman scorns equally to wrong others or to suffer others do 
wrong him. 

"I do not for one moment admit that political morality is different 
from private morality ; that a promise made of the stump differs from a 
promise made in private life. I do not for one moment admit that a 
man should act deceitfully as a public servant in his dealings with other 
nations, any more than that he should act deceitfully in his dealings as 
a private citizen with other private citizens. I do not for one moment 
admit that a nation should treat other nations in a different spirit from 
from that in which an honorable man would treat other men. * * * 

FKANCE AND THE UNITED STATES. 

"And now, my host, a word in jjarting. You and' I belong to the 
only two republics among the great powers of the world. The an- 
cient friendship between France and the United States has been, on 
the whole a sincere and disinterested friendship. A calamity to you 
would be a sorrow to us. But it would be more than that. In the 
seething turmoil of the history of humanity certain nations stand out 
as possessing a peculiar power or charm, some special gift of beauty 
or wisdom or strength, which puts them among the immortals, which 
makes them rank forever with the leaders of mankind. France is 
one of these nations. For her to sink would be a loss to all the world. 
There are certain lessons of brilliance and of generous gallantry that 
she can teach better than any of her sister nations. You have had a 
great past. I believe that you will have a great future. Long may 
you carry yourselves proudly as citizens of a nation which bears a lead- 
ing part in the teaching and uplifting of mankind." 

After the lecture, Vice-Rector Liard, on behalf of the university, 
presented to Mr. Eoosevelt a bust of Jefferson and two vases made at 
the porcelain factory at Sevres. 

COL. ROOSEVELT SEES AIESHIP FLIGHT. 

On April 26th, Col. Roosevelt for the first time in his life saw an 



ROOSEVELT IN THE EYE OF THE WORLD. 399 

aeroplane flight. It was a short one and the aeronaut, Emile Dubonnet, 
had a narrow escape from injury. 

The Colonel journeyed to Issy-les-Moulineaux as the guest of the 
academy of sports. There a large crowd had gathered, including cabi- 
net ministers and noted aviators. Unfortunately a strong wing was 
blowing and it seemed as though the promised flight would have to be 
abandoned. 

Not wishing to disappoint Col. Roosevelt, Dubonnet volunteered to 
go up in the face of the gale. A few days before he made a sensational 
flight over the city of Paris. The former president was deeply interested 
in every detail of the start and pressed forward as the machine left the 
ground. 

It was evident, however, that it was no day for flying and the aero- 
plane had hardly gone 150 yards when it came down with a woop, al- 
most capsizing as it struck the ground. One of the wings was broken, 
but Dubonnet was not hurt. The Colonel rushed forward and offered 
him hearty congratulations. Before his return to Paris M. de Vil- 
leneuve, president of the Academy of Sports, presented to Col. Roose- 
velt, as honorary president, the academy's gold medal. 

During the day Col. Roosevelt received a deputation from the French 
parliamentary group for international arbitration, headed byi former 
Premier Leon Bourgeois and Baron d'Estournelles de Constant. The 
latter in addressing the ex-president said he counted upon Col. Roose- 
velt's influence in the holding of a third peace conference at The Hague. 

To this the Colonel replied that his influence could be taken for 
granted; "but," he added, "you must remember that I am now a pri- 
vate citizen." 

"I too am a private citizen," said M. Bourgeois. 

REFERS TO HAGUE CONFERENCE. 

"I am proud to admit," continued Mr. Roosevelt, "that I am the 
first statesman to make an appeal to the Hague court— in a dispute 
between the United States and Mexico. A former government official 
should not give the impression that he believes he is still a government 



•iUO ROOSEVELT IN THE EYE OF THE WORLD. 

official, but with this reserve I am entirely in accord with you upon the 
necessity of a third Hague conference." 

After a visit to the Luxembourg gallery, Mr. Roosevelt was con- 
ducted to the famous revolutionary prison in the wing of the Palais de 
Justice, known as the Conciergerie, where he inspected the dungeons, 
among others that in which Marie Antoinette was confined prior to her 
execution. 

On the following day, April 27th, Col. Eoosevelt watched the war 
operations of the Paris garrison on the field of Vineennes. He spent 
the balance of the day visiting the places for which Paris is celebrated 
and in the evening left by train for Belgium. 

BOOSEVELT IN BELGIUM. 

On April 28th, another European nation and their King showed that 
they were proud to honor Col. Theodore Roosevelt, the American citi- 
zen. On this day he arrived at Brussels from Paris at noon and was 
met by the American Ambassador and a host of officials representing 
the King and the various government departments, etc. 

The Belgian people gave Col. and Mrs. Roosevelt and their children 
a warm welcome on their arrival from Paris. After luncheon at the 
American Embassy and a reception for tho American colony Col. Roose- 
velt visited the exposition. 

The king had insisted upon an arrangement whereby he could drive 
alone with his American guest from the exposition to Laaken palace. 
They were recognized and cheered all along the route, a distance of 
about seven miles. 

Brussells fluttered with flags from one end to the other and wore a 
thoroughly festal air in honor of its whirlwind visitor. 

Mr. Roosevelt finished his busy day by attending the burgomaster's 
reception at the Hotel de Ville. The beautiful salons of the hotel, with 
their rich treasures of paintings, tapestries, and carvangs, were 
thronged with the burgomaster's guests. Not far from here was the 
scene of Byron's famous lines: 



ROOSEVELT IN THE EYE OF THE WORLD. 403. 

There was a sound of revelry by night, 

And Belgium's cai^ital had gathered then 
Her beauty and her chivalry, and bright 

The lamps shone o'er fair women and brave men. 

The burgomaster had collected the fair and the brave of Brussels. 
The band played and a gay throng strolled through the beautifully de- 
corated old chambers. Many of the women and practically all of the 
men wore evening dress. Roosevelt, returning from the royal dinner 
party at Laaken, arrived at 10 :10. He was received by the burgomas- 
ter and conducted around the salons by four servants. He left at 10 :20. 

He was attired in deepest mourning, wearing a black suit, lie, and 
overcoat with a mourning band around his hat to within an inch of the 
top. This was because the court still is is mourning for King Leopold. 

The exhibition, which still is incomplete, was well filled for the first 
time since it opened. In the big, bare hall where the reception took 
place about 3,000 people jostled each other uncomfortably after a sev- 
ere fight to get in. Crowds of ticket holders were turned away from the 
various entrances. 

A large crowd outside gave Roosevelt a hearty cheer as he entered 
the hall, in which was a large platfonn filled with notabilities of Brus- 
sels, members of the American legation, and the municipal authorities. 
The mayor made the usual glowing speech of welcome, addressing 
Roosevelt as has been the case everj'where as "Mister President." 

Roosevelt found out in the morning that he had been announced to 
deliver a regular set speech. He was forced to send word to the mayor 
that nothing of the kind was ready, and he could only say a few words, 
speaking in English. Still when he stood up, after making his usual 
explanation in French that his knowledge of the language was so bad 
he was obliged to speak in English, he managed to talk for forty min- 
utes without apparent effort. 

PREDICTS GREATEK FUTURE. 

After a short glance at Belgian history from the days of the middle 
ages, Roosevelt fell back on his Sorbonne lecture, giving the Belgians 



402 ROOSEVELT IN THE EYE OF THE WORLD. 

extracts from it, for the most part dealing with the duties and virtues 
of the average citizen. He concluded with a glance at the Belgium of 
today, when it is one of the great commercial powers of the world, and 
he prophesied a still greater future, dating from the exposition and 
the new reign. 

Incidentally, referring to the exhibition directors, who were re- 
sponsible for the reception there, Roosevelt said; 

"Any nation, including my own, which has not supported it has made 
a great mistake. ' ' 

All this time the king had been invisible to the greater part of the 
audience, but when Eoosevelt sat down the king's tall form was seen 
ascending the platform from the front. He wore a plain, dark blue uni- 
form, with small gold epaulettes. He wore no orders of any kind. He 
held his hat in his hand and shook hands warmly with Eoosevelt. He 
talked animatedly for a short time on the platform, then took Roose- 
velt through a private entrance at the back of the platform to an auto- 
mobile, the two walking arm in arm. 

COMPARES ROOSEVELT TO EVANGEL. 

French panegyrics of Mr. Roosevelt were very numerous. A fea- 
ture in a Parisian newspaper was a laudatory article by Pastor Charles 
Wagner, in which he compares Mr. Roosevelt's Sorbonne speech with 
the preaching of the evangel. , 

Mr. Wagner pointed out that the phrase, "Property was made for 
man, and not man for property," is only a paraphrase of the dictum 
that "the Sabbath— that is, religion— was made for man, and not man 
for the Sabbath." 

Mr. Wagner went on to show that the inspiration for the entire 
speech came from the gospels, and that, in the words of Jesus, "Who- 
soever will be chief among you, let him be your servant," Mr. Roose- 
velt found the stimulating influence for his great oration on the duties 
of a citizen in a republic. 

GREET ROOSEVELT AS HOLLAND'S SON. 

On April 29th, Col. Roosevelt and party arrived at the Hague, Hoi- 



ROOSEVELT IN THE EYE OF THE WORLD. 403 

land. This is the land of the Colonel's forefathers and he received a 
most cordial welcome from the Queen and the people. 

PAKTY TAKE EOYAL TRAIN, 

At Roosendaal the Roosevelts were met by Baron Micheels Vander 
Duynen, one of the Queen's chamberlains; Arthur M. Beaupre, Ameri- 
can minister, and Paxton Hibben, secretary of the American legation. 
After presenting the compliments of her majesty to the Roosevelts, the 
baron invited the party to occupy a special train, which carried them to 
Arnhem. At the latter place Baron Taets Van Amerongen, another 
of the queen's chamberlains, was waiting with the royal automobiles, 
in which the guests were driven to the queen's country residence 

Mr. and Mrs. Roosevelt, were accompanied by Maj. T. B. Mott, mili- 
tary attache at Paris, and Lawrence Abbott. At the chateau they were 
joined by Mrs. Beaupre and they were presented to the queen by Minis- 
ter Beaupre. 

Mr. and Mrs. Beaupre and all of the American party were the 
guests of Queen Wilhelmina and Prince Henry at luncheon. Mr. Roose- 
velt was seated beside the queen, with whom he conducted an animated 
conversation. 

Afterward the guests were conveyed in carriages to Arnhem, es- 
corted by the grand marshal of the court, and they departed at 3:38 
o'clock for Amsterdam. 

PKOUD OF DUTCH ANCESTRY, 

On arriving at Amsterdam Mrs. Roosevelt, Ethel, and Kermit re- 
mained aboard the train and proceeded to The Hague. Roosevelt was 
received by the burgomaster of Amsterdam. He drove with the recep- 
tion committee to the hotel. Mr. Roosevelt consented to make a short 
address in the Free church. When he arrived there the church was 
crowded to its capacity. As he marched down the aisle the organ pealed 
forth "The Star Spangled Banner," but the music was drowned in 
cheers. 

Silence fell on the audience as Roosevelt entered the pulpit. He 
started off by saying he was proud of his Dutch ancestry, which he 



404 ROOSEVELT IN THE EYE OF THE WORLD. 

traced back three centuries. He was proud of the Dutch blood run- 
ning in bis veins and hoped it would run strong in the veins of his 
children and their children and help to make them such good people as 
those of Holland. 

He added: "I am sorry I cannot speak Dutch, but to show that 
I am not altogether bad I will say some words in Dutch I have never 
forgotten. It is a little rhyme my grandparents taught me." He then 
recited a nursery jingle. The audience listened with evident delight 
as Roosevelt recited the words to a movement of his arms as if he was 
tossing a baby. Then he broke away into a characteristic discourse. 

On the second day Col. Roosevelt was again the object of much en- 
thusiasm on the part of the Hollanders. Groups of singers, marching 
through the square on which the apartments of the American visitors 
are located, serenaded him. Later he was cheered when he appeared' 
in the streets, wearing a daisy in the lapel of his coat, the name flower 
of the little Princess Juliana, whose birthday was being celebrated. 

Mrs. Roosevelt sent congratulations to Queen Wilhelmina on the 
birthday of her daughter and received cordial acknowledgments. The 
Roosevelt party went by automobile to Delft in the afternoon. They 
visited the tombs of Hugo Grotius, statesman and scholar, and William 
the Silent. 

They were received by the burgomaster, who in behalf of the muni- 
cipality presented the es-president with a beautiful Delft plate with 
the portrait of William of Orange. 

VISIT TO THE PRINZENHOr. 

They then visited the Prinzenhof, to which a melancholy celebrity 
attached as the scene of the death of William of Orange, the Silent, 
the founder of Dutch independence, who was assassinated there on June 
10, 1854. The bullet holes in the stairs were pointed out. 

The party returned to The Hague, and the burgomaster, Baron 
de Landas, and two members of the council called to present the com- 
pliments of the city. 

The troopers of the Twenty-third squadron, stationed at Vincennes, 



ROOSEVELT IN THE EYE OF THE WORLD. 405 

sent Col. Roosevelt a photograph of the horse which he rode 
on Tuesday, with the inscription that they would take care of the 
horse and always remember the honor that Col. Roosevelt had done the 
squadron. The colonel sent a photograph of himself for the troopers' 
quarters. 

Ex-President and Mrs. Roosevelt dined with the American minister 
and Mrs. Beaupre, a distinguished company being present, including 
the premier and Mme. Heemskerk and Foreign Minister Van Swinderen 
and Mme. Van Swinderen. There was a reception for the American 
colony afterwards. 

EXPLAINS THE BIG GREETING. 

An eminent member of the Dutch government, who had observed 
the many cordial demonstrations of the people, found this explanation 
for them : 

"This welcome to Mr. Roosevelt is more than personal. It is 
because the people see in Mr. Roosevelt the representative of democ- 
racy, of the principles of liberty without excess, of full self-govern- 
ment, without permitting any citizen either by wealth or position to take 
away any right from another. 

"We have had doubt in Europe as to whether the United States 
really has found the right form of government. Some of these doubts 
remain, but the demonstrations by the people today show that they 
believe the American people have attained, or are attaining, those aims 
for which they have striven. 

"I do not think this country or the other European countries are 
doing all the things which have been done for an individual, but for Mr. 
Roosevelt as the deputy of what they believe America is." 

In The Hague the former president saw the city illuminated in 
honor of the birthday anniversary of Princess Juliana, who was bom 
April 30 last year. A novelty was an electric-light portrait of 
Queen Wilhelmina, with the princess in her arms. The framework had 
been constructed by the municipal electric department and was six 
meters (nineteen feet) in diameter. The portrait, which was outlined 
by means of 3,000 tiny lamps, was strikingly good. It was placed near 



406 ROOSEVELT IN THE EYE OF THE WORLD. 

the Vyverberg, the most beautiful spot in The Hague, and was visible a 
long distance. The lights were reflected in the waters of the vyver 
or lake, which is near the houses of parliament. 

The lamps were lighted gradually, as if some one were drawing a 
portrait in lines of light. Then the frame appeared and finally the 
royal crown flashed out. When the piece had been lighted two minutes 
the lamps were extinguished and after a brief interval the portrait was 
produced again. 

On April 30th, Col. Roosevelt and party assisted in celebrating the 
birthday anniversary of the Princess, which throughout Holland was a 
national holiday. Schools, public and private offices and shops were 
closed and there were special festivities in the principal cities. In The 
Hague the "Juliana flower" was sold in the streets, the profits going 
to the Juliana fresh air school to be erected on the dunes near The 
Hague. 

One of the little Juliana's presents was a Shetland pony given by 
Queen Wilhelmina, who remembered her own first pony with much 
affection. 

Today, for the first time since his arrival in Paris, Roosevelt's 
cavalry coat and sombrero made their reappearance for an automo- 
bile trip from The Hague to Amsterdam, but their fame had not reached 
Holland— their wearer was not recognized in the villages en route. 

In Haarlem, however, where the party broke their journey to visit 
the flower show and see Franz Hals' pictures in the old town hall, full 
compensation was made. The usual crowd had cheered the family on 
departing from The Hague, and Haarlem took up the demonstration, 
giving Roosevelt a rapturous reception. The welcoming speaker at the 
flower show informed him that he was exactly the one hundredth thou- 
sandth visitor to pass the turnstile. It also was suggested that the re- 
moval of the duty on Dutch bulbs would benefit American by enabling 
them to have as beautiful gardens as those in Holland. 

Roosevelt did not refer to this piece of altruism in his reply, although 
he complimented the Dutch on their ability to combine hard work with 
beauty and entertainment. He then was presented with a silver model 
of the Pilgrim ship, Mayflower. 



ROOSEVELT IN THE EYE OF THE WORLD. 407 

HIS TRIBUTE TO THE DUTCH, 

"Americans always are especially struck in Holland," Col. Roose- 
velt said, "by the way in which you, one of the hardest working people 
of all people, contrive to add beauty and enjojTuent to your lives. 

' ' We in America have in the past had to work so hard that we have 
not always been able to pay as much attention as you to the things that 
tend for enjoyment, and, if one or the other must be sacrificed, we think 
that enjoyment should be sacrificed to work, but more and more we are 
growing to realize that beauty and enjoyment can be combined with 
work. 

"Americans come here to see how you are able to combine them." 

The party visited the town hall after lunch. The square in front of 
the building was filled with people who threw flowers as Roosevelt as- 
cended the steps. These afterward were rescued as souvenirs by de- 
votees. 

The party arrived at Amsterdam at about 5 o'clock. One of tne 
largest crowds that have greeted Roosevelt on his European trip await- 
ed him in the square outside the imposing Ryks museum. Here the 
burgomaster and the director of the museum showed the party the 
best of Rembrandt's works. For fifteen minutes Roosevelt sat in 
silent contemplation before the great master's "Night Watch," his 
largest and most celebrated work, and then for the same period before 
Rembrandt 's ' ' The Masters of the Guild. ' ' This half hour was the most 
peaceful Roosevelt has spent on his trip. The other occupants of the 
gallery sat or stood behind him silent or talking in whispers. 

EEINVIGORATED BY SEEING PICTURES. 

Roosevelt has confessed for the first time to a slight feeling of 
fatigue, but in thirty minutes seated befoi'e the two grand masterpieces 
seemed to reinvigorate him and, with brisker step and brighter eye, 
but giving no expression to his emotions inspired by the two famous 
canvases, he rapidly reviewed the rest of the museum, remarking 
as he was shown Admiral Van Tromp's portrait : 



408 ROOSEVELT IN THE EYE OF THE WORLD. 

"That was a fine fellow." 

There were 6,000 people in the square when Eoosevelt left the 
museum, and the fall of a child nearly caused an accident. In a moment 
thirty persons piled atop of one another, but nobody sustained serious 
injury. The party visited another museum and were greeted by an- 
other crowd. Then, feasted to the full on art, Roosevelt found seclu- 
sion and dinner at a hotel, after facing a tliird but smaller crowd at 
the entrance. 

The party left at 9 o'clock at night for Copenhagen. 

BOOSEVELT IN DENMARK RECEIVES ROYAL, HONORS, 

On May 2nd, Col. Eoosevelt visited in Copenhagen, Denmark. 
When he arrived at the Danish Capital contrary to the Danish 
custom, the Roosevelt party was received here with full royal 
honors. "When the train bearing the visitors arrived in the station 
it passed beyond the point where the royal representatives were 
waiting, and on descending from their car Mr. Roosevelt and his family 
were blocked by the cheering and enthusiastic crowd. Crown Prince 
, Christian, who is seven feet tall, broke through the throng, rescued Mr. 
and Mrs. Roosevelt from their dilemma and helped them reach the en- 
trance to the station. The lord chamberlain took care of the others. 

When Mr. Roosevelt appeared outside the station he was received 
with widly enthusiastic applause. Standing in the king's carriage, the 
former president swung his felt hat over his head, smiling. All the 
way into the city he kept his hat in his hand and maintained a cheer- 
ful conversation with the crown prince, both acting as though they were 
old friends. 

American and Danish flags were displayed all the way to the Amal- 
ienborg palace, where the vistors were saluted by the lifeguards. For 
the first time the stars and stripes were shown on the king's palace 
with the Danish emblem. Mr. Roosevelt uncovered his head and saluted 
the guards, then he followed the crown prince into a suite of eigh- 
teen rooms, where a cablegram was awaiting him from King Fred- 



ROOSEVELT IN THE EYE OF THE WORLD. 409 

erick, wishing him a hearty welcome to Demnark. The crown prince 
and Mr. Roosevelt exchanged visits. 

The prince, presiding at a dinner in the evening as the king's repre- 
sentative, thanked Mr. Roosevelt for coming to this court and proposed 
his health, which was responded to by those around the table, who in- 
cluded the leading personages of the kingdom, court, parliamentary, 
and scholarly life. 

The Colonel, in reply, said he had received a cordial message from 
the king, and thanked the prince for his hospitality. He proposed a 
toast to the king and tbe royal family of Denmark. 

HAS TO DINE IN MORNING DBESS. 

Col. Roosevelt's baggage had been delayed and he was obliged to 
dine in morning dress. King Edward had a like experience two years 
ago, his baggage having been sent by a different route. 

Mr. Roosevelt wore a gray suit. " Mrs. Roosevelt and Miss Ethel 
were forced to dine in street gowns. 

The prince was both amused and delighted at the informal nature of 
the meeting between himself and the colonel on the latter 's arrival. 

The Danish court is noted for its formality and the missing bag- 
gage seemed to press heavily on Roosevelt's mind. No sooner had he 
been presented to the prince than he took the latter 's arm and said: 

"I want to tell you about my baggage." 

The story was soon told and it put things at once on a genial footing. 

At the reception given by Maurice F. Egan, the American minister, 
at the legation, the former president met the diplomatic representatives, 
the cabinet ministers, and many persons prominent in the various de- 
partments of public activity. 

By this time the missing baggage had been found, and Mr. Roose- 
velt was thus able to dress in the conventional clothes. 

After the crown prince had taken the Roosevelts to their apart- 
ments he went to his own residence across the avenue. Half an hour 
later the colonel visited the prince and had tea, proceding from there 
to pay a visit to Prince Waldemar- and Prince Hans, the latter being 
the uncle of the queen of England. 



410 ROOSEVELT IN THE EYE OF THE WORLD. 

Col. Roosevelt confessed today that he is physically tired. He said 
a campaign for the presidency was play compared with his arduous pil- 
grimage of Europe. He suggested that the festivities be shortened. 
The crown prince retorted to the plea for rest by saying: 

"The old guard dies but never surrenders." 

THE COLONEL SEES A BOAT NAMED FOR ALICE. 

Arriving at Kiel, the Eoosevelts were received by Paul H. J. Sar- 
tori, the American consular agent. A woman presented the former 
president with a bouquet. There was a brief exchange of greetings, 
after which the Americans were escorted to the royal waiting room, 
where they rested a few moments before boarding the steamer for the 
Danish capital. 

As the little steamer, with the Eoosevelts aboard, came down the 
bay from Kiel, flying the stars and stripes, the oSicers and men of the 
German warships anchored in the roadstead stood at salute. 

Mr. Roosevelt was on the bridge with the captain, and many glasses 
were trained on him from the craft in the harbor. His attention was 
called to the imperial yacht Meteor, which had been christened by his 
daughter Alice (Mrs. Nicholas Longworth). Alongside the dock could 
be seen a small steam yacht named Alice Roosevelt, which is used by 
•the admiralty. 

Col. Roosevelt on the second day in 'Copenhagen began a charming 
day in Denmark's capital and the adjacent country with an automo- 
bile drive to the castle of Frederiksborg, built by Frederick II. in 1562, 
the main part being replaced with the present structure in 1602 by 
Christian IV. In the castle church six Danish kings have been crowned. 

A visit to the national museum was made the occasion for a friendly 
demonstration by students from the government school. The students 
met the party in the great court of the castle, and, waving their col- 
lege banners, shouted a welcome. Mr. Roosevelt acknowledged the 
greeting in a brief speech. 

Thence the motor drive was continued to Helsingoer. The Roose- 
velta were accompanied by a party which occupied six automobiles and 



ROOSEVELT IN THE EYE OF THE WORLD. 411 

included Foreign Minister Sehavenius and other members of the cabi- 
net, the burgomaster of Copenhagen and several other prominent per- 
sonages. In the party were also American Minister Egan, Mrs. Egan 
and Miss Egan and various ofiScials of the court. 

SEE WHERE SHAKESPEARE PliAYED. 

From Helsingoer the party went to Elsinore, the assumed scene of 
Shakespeare's "Hamlet," where Copenhagen antiquarians say recent 
researches have established that Shakespeare and his company of ac- 
tors actually performed the tragedy at the castle. Col. Boosevelt 
walked the ramparts where, according to the play, the ghost appeared. 

The visitors had luncheon aboard the Scandinavian-American line 
steamer Queen Maud. Vice Admiral de Richelieu presided and toasted 
Mr. Roosevelt. In responding the former president said that the only 
thing lacking about the Danish-Americans in America was that there 
were not enough of them. 

GO BACK ON STEAMER. 

The steamer carried the party back to Copenhagen. The sail was 
the occasion of an unusual compliment to Mr. Roosevelt. The Danish 
and Swedish governments had ordered their squadrons of warships to 
take positions along the coast between Helsingoer and Copenhagen and 
when the Queen Maud steamed past Mr. Roosevelt was accorded the 
honors usually paid to royalty. Flags on the warships were dipped, 
officers and men saluted and the bands played American airs. Many 
merchant vessels in the harbors of Helsinger and Copenhagen flew the 
stars and stripes. 

The Danish-American society of Chicago today put Mr. Roosevelt 
down, with his consent, as a member of the development company 
which is reclaiming lands in the district of Jutland for public purposes. 
The society presented to Mr. Roosevelt ten shares of nondividend-pay- 
ing stock. 

Col. Roosevelt and party left for Norway. 



412 ROOSEVELT IN THE EYE OF THE WORLD. 

COL. EOOSEVELT VISITS NOBWAY. 

Col. Roosevelt arrived in Christiania, Norway, May 4th, 
The streets of Christiania were bright with decorations, and almost 
every one was wearing an American flag. A Roosevelt march, Roose- 
velt photographs, and compilations of Roosevelt's sayings were being 
sold in the shops and on the highways. 

KING AND QUEEN MEET HIM AT STATION. 

Roosevelt experienced here the finest example of democratic royalty 
he had met. Both the king and queen met him at the station and both 
attended the luncheon in his honor at the American legation. The re- 
cejition after the luncheon was attended by the usual crowd. The king 
and queen had gone and Roosevelt followed as soon as he could. Then 
the Norwegians present were puzzled by what to them was a new form of 
entertainment. There was dancing, but it was under difficulties of 
space and the women's big hats, but the dancing was accomplished. 

Roosevelt got away to the palace and tackled his correspondence. 
The king went to his room informally and unannounced and suggested 
that he might like tea. 

"By George, I would," said Roosevelt. 

Tea was brought and for more than an hour the king and Roosevelt 
talked, the latter telling his majesty of Seth Bullock holding up an audi- 
ence with a revolver in either hand, while Roosevelt spoke against free 
silver. 

"I would like to see your small Olaf," said Roosevelt, "small 
Olaf" being the affectionate name by which all Norway loves to call 
the crown prince. So the king and queen brought Olaf. 

DINNEB IN STATE DINING ROOM. 

In the evening the dinner was served in the great state dining room. 
There were about 200 guests, all seated before the royal party entered, 



ROOSEVELT IN THE EYE OF THE WORLD. 413 

the king, with Mrs. Eoosevelt, leading the way, followed by Eoosevelt 
and the queen. They took their seats at a high table on four gilt state 
chairs. 

A band in the gallery played the Norwegian anthem and ' ' The Star 
Spangled Banner." About two-thirds of the way through the dinner 
the king rose to propose a toast. He was in evening dress and wore the 
star and ribbon of the Order of St. Olaf. He has a charming manner 
is of fine appearance, but is not an easy speaker. 

The company stood when he rose and remained standing until Roose- 
velt had finished his reply. The king said: 

"Mr. and Mrs. Eoosevelt: I welcome you with great pleasure, not 
only in the -name of the queen and myself, but in the name of the Nor- 
wegian peojile. The public reception given you will convinc you of the 
truth of my words. We are gi-ateful that, in spite of your limited time, 
you were able to come to Norway. There are many Norwegians in 
America, and, although iVmerican citizens, they are Norwegians at 
heart. We are pleased to welcome you as an eminent American citi- 
zen. With these words I drink a toast to the United States and to Mr. 
and Mrs. Eoosevelt." 

NORWEGIANS MAKE GOOD CITIZENS. 

In reply Eoosevelt said : 

"It is a peculiar laleasure to be here. We have many Norwegian 
emigrants. They make such good citizens that I once said I grudged 
the fact that they left any behind them. As the king said, they find love 
of their native country and love of the country of their adoption com- 
patible. A man can love his wife all the better if he loves his mother a 
great deal." 

Eoosevelt then gave some Norwegian history and said he was glad 
when he was president to be able to cable good wishes to the new Norwe- 
gian king. He concluded with a little earnest ad\ace to the king and 
queen, who, he said, "seemed to do all things well, to have little Olaf in- 
structed in the Norwegian sagas, especially the Heims Kringla, which 
was his particular favorite." 



414 ROOSEVELT IN THE EYE OF THE WORLD. 

ROOSEVELT'S CELEBRATED NOBEL PRIZE SPEECH. 

"international, peace." 

Ex-President Roosevelt discussed the subject of "International 
peace" before the Nobel prize committee, members of royalty and other 
personages distinguished in the political, educational, commercial, and 
social life of Norway. 

It was the Nobel prize committee, the members of which are elected 
by the Norwegian storthing, that in 1906 conferred upon Mr. Roose- 
velt, then president of the United States, its medal and money award- 
ed in recognition of his services in ending the Russo-Japanese war. 

The occasion was the feature of Mr. Roosevelt's visit to Norway 
and one of the most notable of his European tour. Copies of the ad- 
dress had been distributed in advance among the press, and the views of 
the former president were published in every country of Europe. 

PRIZE MONEY IS HELD AS TRUST FOB UNITED STATES. 

Mr. Roosevelt spoke as follows: 

"It is with peculiar pleasure that I stand here today to express the 
deep appreciation I feel of the high honor conferred upon me by the 
presentation of the Nobel peace prize. 

"The gold medal which formed part of the prize I shall always keep, 
and I shall hand it on to my children as a precious heirloom. The sum 
of money provided as part of the prize by the wise generosity of the 
illustrious founder of this world-famous prize system I did not, under 
the peculiar circumstances of the case, feel at liberty to keep. 

"I think it eminently just and proper that in most cases the recipient 
of the prize should keep for his own use the prize in its entirety. But 
in this case, while I did not act officially as president of the United 
States, it was nevertheless only because I was president that I was en- 
abled to act at all, and I feel that the money must be considered as 
having been given me in trust for the United States. 

"I therefore used it as a nucleus for a foundation to forward the 
cause of industrial peace, as being well within the general purpose of 



ROOSEVELT IN THE EYE OF THE WORLD. 415 

your committee, for in our complex industrial civilization of today the 
peace of righteousness and justice, the only kind of peace worth having, 
is at least necessary in the industrial world as it is among nations. 

"There is at least as much need to curb the cruel greed and arro- 
gance of part of the world of capital, to curb the cruel greed and vio- 
lence of part of the world of labor, as to check a cruel and unhealthy 
militarism in international relationships. 

MAN NOT WORTH SALT WHO WON 't FIGHT IN GOOD CAUSE. 

"We must ever bear in mind that the gi'eat end in view is righteous- 
ness, justice as between man and man, nation and nation, the chance to 
lead our lives on a somewhat higher level, with a broader spirit of 
brotherly good-will one for another. 

"Peace is generally good in itself, but it is never the highest good 
unless it comes as the handmaid of righteousness, and it becomes a very 
evil thing if it serves merely as a mask for cowardice and sloth, or as 
an instrument to further the ends of despotism or anarchy. 

"We despise and abhor the bully, the brawler, the oppressor, 
whether in private or public life, but we despise no less the coward and 
the voluptuary. 

* ' No man is worth calling a man who will fight rather than submit to 
infamy or see those that are dear to him suffer wrong. No nation de- 
serves to exist if it permits itself to lose the stern and virile virtues, 
and this without regard to whether the loss is due to the growth of a 
heartless and all-absorbing commercialism, to prolonged indulgence in 
luxury and soft, effortless ease, or to the deification of a warped and 
twisted sentimentality. 

"Moreover, and above all, let us remember that words count only 
when they give expression to deeds or are to be translated into them. 
The leaders of the Red Terror prattled of peace while they steeped their 
hands in the blood of the innocent; and many a tyrant has called it 
peace when he has scourged honest protest into silence. 

"Our words must be judged by our deeds, and in striving for a lofty 
ideal we must use practical methods ; and if we cannot attain all at one 



416 ROOSEVELT IN THE EYE OF THE WORLD. 

leap, we must advance toward it step by step, reasonably content so 
long as we do actually make some progress in the right direction. 

TREATIES OF ARBITRATION AS PRACTICAL PEACE STEP. 

"Now, having freely admitted the limitations to our work, and the 
qualifications to be borne in mind, I feel that I have the right to have 
my words taken seriously when I point out where, in my judgment, great 
advance can be made in the cause of international peace. 

' ' I speak as a practical man, and whatever I now advocate I actually 
tried to do when I was for the time being the head of a great nation, and 
keenly jealous of its honor and interest. I ask other nations to do only 
what I should be glad to see my own nation do. 

"The advance can be made along several lines. First of all there 
can be treaties of arbitration. There are, of course, states so backward 
that a civilized community ought not to enter into an arbitration treaty 
with them, at least until we have gone much further than at present in 
securing some kind of international police action. 

"But all really civilized communities should have effective arbitra- 
tion treaties among themselves. I believe that these treaties can cover 
almost all questions liable to arise between such nations, if they are 
drawn with the explicit agreement that each contracting party will 
respect the other's territory and its absolute soverignty within that 
territory, and the equally explicit agreement that (aside from the very 
rare cases where the nation's honor is vitally concerned) all other pos- 
sible subjects of controversy will be submitted to arbitration. 

"Such a treaty would insure peace unless one party deliberately vio- 
lated it. Of course, as yet there is no adequate safeguard against such 
deliberate violation, but the establishment of a suflScient number of these 
treaties would go a long way toward creating a world opinion which 
would finally find expression in the provision of methods to forbid or 
punish any such violation. 

SUPREME COURT OP THE U. S. HELD UP AS OBJECT LESSON. 

' ' Secondly, there is the further development of The Hague tribunal. 



ROOSEVELT IN THE EYE OF THE WORLD. 417 

of the work of the conferences and courts at The Hague. It has been 
well said that the first Hague conference framed a Magna Charta for 
the nations ; it set before us an ideal which has already to some extent 
been realized, and toward the full realization of which we can all steadily 
strive. 

"The second congress made further progress; the third should do 
yet more. Meanwhile the American government has more than once 
tentatively suggested methods for completing the court of arbitral jus- 
tice, constituted at the second Hague conference, and for rendering it 
effective. It is earnestly to be hoped that the various governments of 
Europe, working with those of America and of Asia, shall set themselves 
seriously to the task of devising some method which shall accomplish 
this result. 

"If I may venture the suggestion, it would be well for the statesmen 
of the world, in planning for the erection of this world court, to study 
what has been done in the United States by the Supreme court. I can- 
not help thinking that the constitution of the United States, notably in 
the establishment of the Supreme court and in the methods adopted for 
securing peace and good relations among and between the different 
states, offers certain valuable analogies to what should be striven for in 
order to secure, through The Hague courts and conferences, a special 
of world federation for international peace and justice. 

"There are, of course, fundamental differences between what the 
United States constitution does and what we should even attempt at this 
time to secure at The Hague ; but the methods adopted in the American 
constitution to prevent hostilities between the states, and to secure the 
supremacy of the federal court in certain classes of cases, are well 
worth the study of those who seek at The Hague to obtain the same 
results on a world scale. 

SOMETHING SHOULD BE DONE TO CHECK HUGE ARMAMENTS. 

"In the third place, something should be done as soon as possible to 
check the growth of armaments, especially naval armaments, by inter- 
national agreement. No one power could or should act by itself; for it 



418 ROOSEVELT IN THE EYE OF THE WORLD. 

is eminently undesirable, from the standpoint of the peace of righteous- 
ness, that a power which really does believe in peace should place itself 
at the mercy of some rival which may at bottom have no such belief and 
no intention of acting on it. 

"But, granted sincerity of purpose, the great powers of the world 
should find no insurmountable difficulty in reaching an agreement which 
would put an end to the present costly and growing extravagance of 
expenditure on naval armaments. 

"An agreement merely to limit the size of ships would have been 
very useful a few years ago, and would still be of use; but the agree- 
ment should go much further. 

SUGGESTS LEAGUE OF PEACE TO CUKB NATIONS BY FOBCE. 

"Finally, it would be a master stroke if those great powers honestly 
bent on peace would form a league of peace, not only to keep the peace 
among themselves, but to prevent, by force if necessary, its being 
broken by others. 

"The supreme difficulty in connection with developing the peace 
work of The Hague arises from the lack of any executive power, of any 
police power to enforce the decrees of the court. In any community of 
any size the authority of the courts rests upon actual or potential 
force ; on the existence of a police, or on the knowledge that the able- 
bodied men of the country are both ready and willing to see that the 
decrees of judicial and legislative bodies are put into effect. 

"In new and wild communities where there is violence, an honest 
man must protect himself; and until other means of securing his safety 
are devised, it is both foolish and wicked to persuade him to surrender 
his arms while the men who are dangerous to the community retain 
theirs. He should not renounce the right to protect himself by his own 
efforts until the community is so organized that it can effectively relieve 
the individual of the duty of putting down violence. 

"So it is with nations. Each nation must keep well prepared to de- 
fend itself until the establishment of some form of international police 



ROOSEVELT IN THE EYE OF THE WORLD. 419 

power, competent and willing to prevent violence as between nations. 
As things are now, such power to command peace throughout the world 
could best be assured by some combination between those great nations 
which sincerely desire peace and have no thought themselves of com- 
mitting aggressions. 

"The combination might at first be only to secure peace within cer- 
tain definite limits and certain definite conditions ; but the ruler or 
statesman who should bring about such a combination would have 
earned his place in history for all time and his title to the gratitude of 
all mankind." 

ROYALTY, THE CABINET AND PARLIAMENT IN ATTENDANCE. 

Mr. Roosevelt's discourse was made with something of the solemnity 
of a religious service in the largest auditorium of Christiania, the Na- 
tional theater, and in the presence of King Haakon, Queen Maud, mem- 
bers of the cabinet and of parliament, and hundreds of the most pro- 
gressive and influential personalities in the kingdom. 

The address was received cordially and at its conclusion John Lund, 
vice president of the Nobel prize committee, paid a tribute to the 
speaker and to the country from which he came. 

After referring to Norway's interest iu America and American 
affairs Mr. Lund said : 

"But it is not Norway alone, but the entire civilized world, which has 
reason to be grateful to the United States. Millions upon millions 
from Europe, poor and often downtrodden but capable, have found in 
the new world that happiness and prosperity which the old world was 
unable to afford them. 

"In many ways the United States has reached the goal for which 
Europe is still sighing. There all peoples, all races, and all religions 
can unite peacefully in mutual industry imder a common flag. 

"Many ideals for which Europe has striven for more than a thou- 
sand years have been grasped by the youngest continent in the course of 
two or three hundred years. ' ' 



420 ROOSEVELT IN THE EYE OF THE WORLD. 

CALLS JOURNEY IN EUROPE A TRIUMPHAL PROCESSION. 

Mr. Lund praised many features of American life, citing its indus- 
try, agricultural development, school systems, and dwelt upon the posi- 
tion of the American woman and the popular respect for the worker. 
Addressing Mr. Roosevelt, he said: 

"Your journey through the old world, Mr. Roosevelt, has been a 
triumphal procession. Everywhere fathers have taken pleasure and 
pride in bidding welcome to so worthy a representative of their sons 
yonder in the west." 

The speaker reviewed Mr. Roosevelt's activities in behalf of peace, 
referring especially to his share in the conclusion of peace between 
Russia and Japan, and added : 

"I have no doubt that the future will still afford you opportunity for 
adding to your splendid achievements. Long live Theodore Roosevelt ! ' ' 

The Roosevelts passed a quiet morning indoors, as a cold rain fell 
during the forenoon. They had luncheon with Minister Peirce and 
Mrs. Peirce at the American legation, later driving to the theater, where 
the exercises were begun at two o 'clock. " 

SMILE CONQUERS ALL OF NORWAY. 

It was remarked here that Mr. Roosevelt's winning smile con- 
quered all Norwegian hearts. King Haakon, Queen Maud, the minis- 
ters of state and leading persons in eveiy walk regarded the colonel as 
a man whose physical energy is equaled only by his brilliant talents. 
Crowds on the streets showed more enthusiasm when he arrived than 
had been seen on any other occasion since the proclamation of inde- 
pendence from Sweden. 

To a correspondent Mr. Roosevelt stated: "Norway's welcome stirs 
me deeply. I cannot express my sense of indebtedness." 

The Norwegian newspapers contained graphic descriptions of the 
scenes and incidents of Mr. Roosevelt's visit, with extended stories of 
his life. America was heartily congratulated on possessing such a pub- 
lic character, whose reappearance in national politics is accepted as cer- 



ROOSEVELT IN THE EYE OF THE WORLD. 421 

tain. Considerable attention was given to questions of the hour in the 
United States, and all the papers assert that Mr. Roosevelt occupies a 
commanding position "because the whole strength of honest American 
opinion supports his leadership. ' ' 

Perhaps the most dramatic feature of the reception was the light- 
ninglike change Christiania undei-went, from deep mourning in honor 
of Bjornstjerne Bjornson to gala dress in honor of Mr. Roosevelt. The 
two names are linked together and in much of the comment the men 
are represented as embodying the highest aspirations of their respective 
nations. 

Mr. Roosevelt's public utterances have been made up largely of what 
the critics call ' ' platitudes, ' ' yet the fact is noted that these old maxims 
with Mr. Roosevelt's practical power behind them glow with a new vital- 
ity. Norwegians believe that not only the Scandinavian peoples, but 
the whole of Europe, will receive a salutary and lasting impress from 
his presence and his speeches. 

On May 6th, Colonel Roosevelt received a degree of Doctor of Laws 
from the University of Norway. 

At this stage of his great journey, the Colonel had developed a very 
sore throat and consulted a specialist who prescribed rest and quiet. 
The party left today for Sweden. 

ROOSEVELT IN SWEDEN. 

On May 7th Col. Roosevelt and party arrived at Stockholm, Sweden, 
on a special train sent to meet them, and were received at the railway 
station by Prince Wilhelm, who drove with them to the palace, where 
they became the guests of the Prince and Princess in the absence of 
King Gustave V. 

United States Minister Graves, the staff of the American legation, 
the Premier and other members of the Swedish Cabinet were also at 
the station to receive the American guests. An immense crowd sur- 
rounded the receiving party and cheered as the train drew in. A choir 
stationed on the platform sang "My Country, 'Tis of Thee," and the 
Swedish national anthem. 



422 ROOSEVELT IN THE EYE OF THE WORLD. 

Colonel Roosevelt was greatly shocked when he learned of King 
Edward's death, and immediately telegraphed Queen Alexandra his 
condolences. 

The death of King Edward served to modify greatly the program of 
festivities planned for Mr. Roosevelt, and the state dinner in honor of 
the former President, which was to have been held at the palace, was 
canceled, and the court went into mourning. 

The Prince and Princess accompanied the Roosevelts in the after- 
noon to the Northern museum, the biological museum and the open air 
museum, after which the party had luncheon at the palace. 

Professor Uchermann of Christiania, after examining Mr. Roose- 
velt's throat, said that its condition was only such as was natural after 
the strain of being overworked for six weeks. 

In the afternoon, escorted by the prince, he visited the barracks and 
witnessed a cavalry and artillery drill, together with an exhibition of 
military gymnastics, wherein the Swedish army is said to excel. 

Whenever he appeared on the streets Colonel Roosevelt was loudly 
cheered. In the evening he attended a dinner given by the citizens of 
Stockholm, the address of welcome being made by Premier Lindman. 

In his laudatory speech at this dinner Premier Lindman said : 

"We are glad to welcome the foremost citizen of the great Republic 
to which Sweden has sent so many loyal citizens. ' ' 

After referring to the former President's efforts toward world peace 
and the conservation of natural resources, as well as his endeavor 
morally to uplift his fellow countrymen, the Premier continued : 

"Your motto, Colonel Roosevelt, has been honesty, justice and good 
character in every citizen. You have sought to promote self-reliance 
and foster such a spirit in the nation that the stronger would help the 
weaker when the weaker was in need and deserved it, and the manner 
in which you have worked to these ends has made your name respected 
and honored throughout the world. ' ' 



ROOSEVELT IN THE EVE OF THE WORLD. 423 

COLONEL PROPOSES 8ILENX TOAST. 

Colonel Roosevelt, with the consent of the presiding officer, proposed 
a silent toast as a mark of sympathy to the British people. Eeferring 
to the death of King Edward, he said : ' ' The British people mourn the 
loss of a wise ruler, whose sole thought was for their welfare and for 
the good of mankind, and the citizens of other nations can join with 
them in mourning for a man who showed throughout his term of king- 
ship that his voice was always raised for justice and peace among the 
nations." 

Some four hundred men and women of distinction froin all parts of 
Sweden took part in the dinner. 

In his toast to the former President, President Lindman coupled 
Mrs. Roosevelt's name with the Colonel's, as a true wife, who had con- 
tributed to her husband's success at every step. 

Colonel Roosevelt, in response, touched upon the question of the 
hour in Sweden, the propaganda which has been spread by a certain 
faction of love without children. The ex-President did not name the 
leader in this propaganda, but strongly denounced race suicide as one 
of the most unworthy things of all time. It happens that the Swedish 
population, next to France and Spain, has increased more slowly than 
any other, and the speaker was applauded enthusiastically. He was 
congratulated by the Premier and others on his bold and unequivocal 
declarations. 

On the second day of his visit to the Swedish capital the Colonel's 
throat developed a bronchial affection. A specialist who was called 
in twice insisted that he remain indoors all day and keep absolutely 
quiet, or else it might not be advisable for him to journey to Berlin. 

Colonel Roosevelt went bare-headed to the balcony of the legation 
and listened to Swedish choirs sing the American and Swedish national 
airs. He saw forty thousand people assembled, cheering and saluting 
him. Mr. Roosevelt made a speech and returned to the palace in excel- 
lent condition after neglecting the doctor's request to give himself and 
his throat a rest. 



CHAPTER XXIV. 
TRIUMPHAL TOUR THROUGH EUROPE. 

Guest of the Emperor of Germany — Speech before German University — Participates with 
Kaiser in Mimic War — Death of King Edward VII. Stops Future Festivities — Roosevelt 
Appointed Special American Ambassador to King Edward's Funeral — In London, Eng- 
land — The City in Gloom and Sadness — A Gorgeous Pageant — Col. Roosevelt Receives 
Degree at Oxford — Freedom of London Conferred on Him. 

At Berlin, Germany, on May 10th Kaiser Wilhelm and Theodore 
Roosevelt clasped hands on the marble steps of the New palace at 
Potsdam. 

The meeting between the world's two chief exponents of the strenu- 
ous life was cordial and friendly in the extreme. 

Clad in the picturesque white uniform of the garde du corps, with a 
helmet suiTQOunted by a shimmering silver eagle, the kaiser looked 
every inch the war lord immortalized by myriads of photographs as he 
and Colonel Roosevelt stood shaking hands vigorously and enthusias- 
tically for almost a full minute. 

The Roosevelt party had arrived at Berlin a few minutes before by a 
special train, and after the formalities of presentation to the kaiserin, 
and crown prince, and other members of the imperial household were 
over, the kaiser escorted his guests into the jasper gallery where lun- 
cheon was served at small tables. Mrs. Roosevelt walked on the arm 
of the kaiser, and the fonner president escorted the empress. 

The luncheon was strictly informal, and there were no speeches. 
WTien it was over, the kaiser took possession of Colonel Roosevelt and, 
piloting him into a comer, engaged him immediately in most animated 
conversation. Historj^ probably will be deprived of the knowledge of 
what was talked about, but whatever it was both the emperor and Colo- 

424 



TRIUMPHAL JOURNEY THROUGH EUROPE. 425 

nel Koosevelt resorted frequently to gestures with arms, fists and heads 
to drive home their meaning and emphasize their points. 

In the long chamber, hung with old masters, with beautiful views 
through the French windows of the park, six tables were laid for the 
company, which numbered about fifty. Two chief tables were in the 
middle. At one sat the kaiser with crown princess on his right, and 
Mrs. Roosevelt on his left. 

PALACE LUNCHEON GUESTS. 

On Mrs. Roosevelt's left was Dr. von Bethmann-HoUweg, the impe- 
rial chancellor. Others at this table were Gen. von Plessen, Count Zu 
Eulenberg, the American naval attache, Ambassador Hill, Kermit 
Roosevelt, and Gen. Von Loedenfeld. 

At the second chief table sat the empress, with the crown prince on 
her right, and Colonel Roosevelt on her left. On Roosevelt's left was 
the kaiser's young daughter. Princess Victoria Louise. The others at 
this table were the American military attache, Ethel Roosevelt, Herr 
von Schoen, secretary of foreign atf airs ; Countess Keller, Prince Solms- 
Baruth, and Mrs. Hill. 

Finally the emperor took the Roosevelt family in an automobile to 
Sans Souci palace for a look at the royal residence hallowed with mem- 
ories of Frederick the Great. The colonel recalled the claims of the 
Kaiser's great warrior ancestor to American interest, how he forbade 
England's hired Hessian troops to cross Prussian soil, and Frederick's 
profound admiration for Washington. 

After a visit which had lasted from one o 'clock until five, the Roose- 
velts motored back to the American embassy in Berlin in one of the 
imperial automobiles. 

Whether it was due to his elocutionary contest with the Kaiser or to 
the raw, rainy weather which prevailed in Berlin through the day, Col. 
Roosevelt reached the embassy considerably hoarser than when he ar- 
rived in Berlin. Early in the forenoon his throat was so sore he found 
it difficult to speak with any trace of freedom or good humor to Com- 
mander Peary, who was awaiting the former president. 



426 TRIUMPHAL JOURNEY THROUGH EUROPE. 

On his return to the embassy the colonel submitted to an examina- 
tion at the hands of Prof. Frankel, one of Germany's most celebrated 
throat specialists. He was found to be suffering with an acute but be- 
nign case of laryngitis, an after effect of bronchitis of such a type as 
commonly attacks persons who have dwelt some time in the tropics. 

It had been arranged that the colonel should dine at the embassy the 
first night in Berlin, but the dinner was a case of "Hamlet" without 
the Prince of Denmark. Col. Roosevelt dined in his own room, as he is 
anxious to save his voice for his lecture. 

COMEDY OF EEEORS AT STATION. 

Disarrangement of the programme for the reception of Mr. Roose- 
velt through the unaccountable blunder of a railroad official caused a 
great commotion among members of the Kaiser's entourage. They were 
furious that the German reputation for military punctuality and perfect 
organization should receive such a blow at the moment the Kaiser's 
guest arrived. 

Shortly before the time set for the appearance of the special train 
telephone messages were sent to Ambassador Hill, to Gen. von Loewen- 
feld, the Kaiser's adjutant, and to the royal stables, where the auto- 
mobiles were in waiting, that the train was late and that the reception 
would be delayed thirty minutes. However, the train pulled in on time 
to the minute and the colonel found a small and discomfited reception 
committee. He had to stand at the station door surroimded by an army 
of photographers until an automobile could be summoned. 

The chill of a drizzling rain contributed to dampen the enthusiasm 
of the crowd of several hundred persons who gathered in and about the 
Stettiner railroad station. The majority of these were Americans. 
The police lined them up at the far end of the platform, where they 
were rewarded with a glimpse of the top of Mr. Roosevelt's hat as he 
emerged from the sleeper. 

When Mr. Roosevelt appeared at the door of his car, wearing deep 
mourning bands on his silk hat and coat sleeve, only one German official, 
Foreign Secretary von Schoen, was on hand to greet him in the name of 



TRIUMPHAL JOURNEY THROUGH EUROPE. 427 

the Kaiser. Ambassador Hill appeared too late to meet him and the 
royal automobiles placed at his disposal by Wilhelm failed to arrive. 

After shaking hands with Herr von Schoen and pushing his way 
through a small group of embassy secretaries and newspaper corre- 
spondents, Mr. Koosevelt was forced to take refuge in a small private 
automobile, the size of a hansom cab. He and Mrs. Roosevelt stepped 
into the vehicle and Miss Ethel stood outside, hesitating. 

"Come on, get in," shouted the colonel, taking her by the shoulders. 
Miss Roosevelt wedged herself between her parents and the vehicle 
whisked them toward Ambassador Hill's house. 

One of the first men Mr. Roosevelt greeted at the station was Her- 
man Kreismann, an old-time resident of Chicago, who went to Berlin 
years ago as consul. 

"I was appointed to office by Abraham Lincoln, Mr. Roosevelt," said 
the veteran. ' ' I was here when Gen. Grant came to Europe, and so I 
came to meet you." 

"Thank you for coming," repeated Mr. Roosevelt sevei-al times. 
"That's fine, indeed. I am glad to see you." 

An American flag hxmg limply at half-mast in front of the Americm 
embassy aptly symbolized the nature of Mr. Roosevelt's reception in 
the Kaiser's capital. The half-masted emblem represented the em- 
bassy's struggle and its satisfactory compromise between the desire to 
honor the guest and the wish to avoid a display of unseemly jubilation. 
The same sense of restraint, due to the officially declared period of 
mourning for King Edward at court, marked both the official reception 
and the greetings of the press. 

ROOSEVELT AND KAISER SEE MIMIC WAR. 

Col. Roosevelt, in the company of Emperor William, saw a mimic bat- 
tle in which 12,000 men of the German military engaged near Doeberitz. 
It had been feared that the former president would be obliged to forego 
this part of the entertainment planned for him because of the condition 
of his throat, which is still somewhat sensitive, but this morning Prof. 
Fraenkel, the throat specialist, made another examination and decided 



428 TRIUMPHAL JOURNEY THROUGH EUROPE. 

that Mr. Roosevelt would suffer no inconvenience througli being in the 
open air for a few hours. 

Early in the morning Mr. Roosevelt, attended by Lieut.-Col. Von 
Koerner, went in an automobile to Doeberitz, where he was joined by the 
emperor. The colonel wore a riding costiune and was provided 
with a magnificent thoroughbred from the imperial stables. His 
Majesty also took a moimt and together they rode over the 
maneuvering field of about twenty square miles and observed the 
v^-orking out of the army problem. The scene of the evolutions was ad- 
mirably adapted to bringing out the resources of ofiicers and men. The 
topogi'aphy was varied, open tracts being skirted with thick forests and 
broken by streams, rough elevations and swamps. 

The maneuvers were attended by a partj' which included Empress 
Auguste Victoria, Crown Prince Frederick William, Crown Princess 
Cecilie, Princess Victoria Louise, Prince Adelbert, Kermit Roosevelt 
and Henry White, former American Ambassador to France. 

"Fighting" opened with an artillery duel, followed by a sharp colli- 
sion along the whole front between the cavalry and the infantry. Three 
thousand cavalry participated, but there was no grand cavalry charge. 
The day was bright and sunny and the effect was most pleasing from 
Muehlenberg hill, from which Mr. Roosevelt, the emperor, the umpires 
and officers of the general staff watched the finale. The operations 
completed, the officers above the rank of major who had taken jDart in 
the maneuvers assembled on Muehlenberg hill to hear the criticisms of 
the emperor and of the umpires. 

KAISER C.4lLLS COL. ROOSEVELT " MY FRIEND." 

When these comments had been made the emperor in a loud voice 
called out : ' ' My friend Roosevelt, I have been gi'eatly pleased to show 
you some of our German troops. You are the first civilian who has 
reviewed our soldiers." • 

Turning to the officers His Majesty added: "We are honored today 
in having here the distinguished colonel of the Rough Riders." 

Parting salutations were exchanged and the imj)erial party left in 



TRIUMPHAL JOURNEY THROUGH EUROPE. 429 

automobiles for Potsdam, while Mr. Eoosevelt, Kermit and Mr. AVhite 
returned to this city. 

The few privileged spectators admitted to the military grounds at 
Doeberitz enjoyed the novel spectacle of Kaiser Wilhelm and Mr. Roose- 
velt, the most famous of living advocates of armed might as a guaranty 
of peace, riding side by side amid the smoke and thunder of a mock bat- 
tle. For nearly three hours the emperor and his guest, both mounted 
on magTiificent horses from the royal stables, rode back and forth across 
the ragged and uneven practice grounds, the Kaiser making emphatic 
gestures as he pointed out the nature of the action. 

That both men were deeply interested in the battle, as well as in each 
other, was evident. Placed side by side, the emperor and his guest 
presented a curious contrast. Col. Eoosevelt, despite his glasses, was 
the more martial-looking of thv two. He was attired in a faded and well- 
worn cavalry overcoat of khaki and a black sombrero and in comparison 
the Kaiser, in his immaculate gray uniform, glittering epaulets and 
shining helmet, looked like the leader of a military parade. 

The high esteem which the Kaiser has for his guest was shown in the 
unique tribute he paid him at the close of the maneuvers, when, address- 
ing him as "My friend, Mr. Roosevelt," he raised his voice and shouted 
to the assembled officers: "Mr. Roosevelt does us great honor by coming 
here to-day." 

The mimic battle brought into play some of the latest secret military 
devices of the German army and, in disclosing them to a foreigner who, 
according to German ideas, is destined to return to official life, the 
Kaiser violated precedents and gave a proof of his confidence which 
army circles viewed with amazement. 

EOOSEVELT 'S GREAT SPEECH DELIVERED AT GERMAN UNIVERSITY. 

Theodore Eoosevelt delivered his lecture on "The World Move- 
ment" at the University of Berlin and received from the university the 
honorary degree of doctor of philosophy. Emperor "William honored the 
occasion with his presence. It was the first time that His Majesty 
had graced a conferment and the courtesy was significant in view of the 



430 TRIUMPHAL JOURNEY THROUGH EUROPE. 

fact that the German court was in mourning for the monarch's uncle, 
King Edward. 

The ceremony of conferring the degree was staged and conducted 
with impressive simplicity. There were no flags or emblems of royalty 
and the walls of the Aula were bare except for the rows of busts of Ger- 
man scholors and scientists. The only touch of color was provided by the 
senators of the university, with their robes of scarlet and blue, and the 
five heads of the student crops, who wore blue jackets, white breeches, 
jack boots and particolored sashes. ^ 

KAISEB AND GUEST TOGETHER. 

Four hundred guests of the university, who held cards of admission, 
were seated when Emperor William, accompanied by Mr. Roosevelt, 
entered from a side door of the hall. As they appeared the university 
choir chanted "Heil Dir im Sieger Kranz." The two were followed by 
Empress Auguste Victoria, Princess Victoria Louise, Prince and Prin- 
cess Eitel Frederick, Prince and Princess August Wilhelm, Prince 
Adelbert, Mrs. Eoosevelt, Miss Eoosevelt and Kermit Roosevelt. 

This party took seats which had been reserved on the platform. 
Surrounding them were seated American Ambassador Hill and Mrs. 
Hill, the other ambassadors and their wives; Henry White, formerly 
American ambassador to France, and Mrs. White ; Seth Low and Mrs. 
Low, American Consul General Thackara, T. St. John Gaffney, Ameri- 
can Consul General at Dresden; Imperial Chancellor von Bethmann- 
Hollweg, Foreign Minister von Schoen and the members of the cabinet. 
On both sides were the senators of the university. 

STTJDENTS WITH DRAWN SWORDS. 

Mr. Eoosevelt occupied the seat at the reading desk and at his side 
stood the heads of the student corps with drawn swords. This striking 
gniard of honor remained standing and almost immovable during the 
three hours of the lecture and ceremony. The auditorium was filled to 
its capacity of 1,200 by the faculty of the university, students and 
guests. 



TRIUMPHAL JOURNEY THROUGH EUROPE. 431 

Rector Schmidt opened the programme by giving an outline of the 
life of Mr. Roosevelt from the time he was a delicate child until he be- 
came an African nimrod. When he had finished this sketch he intro- 
duced the former president, who was received sympathetically. 

Mr. Roosevelt appeared rugged and in the pink of condition. His 
voice, husky at first, gained in clearness as he proceeded and he was able 
to deliver his complete written thesis of nine thousand words, to which 
he added extemporaneously from time to tune by way of emphasis and 
explanation. 

"the world movement." 

"To-day I am in Berlin University," began the speaker. "Yester- 
day I was in the open-air university of the German army and sat at the 
foot of the great master of that university." 

Mr. Roosevelt said that the German emperor had often been held up 
before him as a statesman who was doing things which he, the speaker, 
should do. 

HIGH PBAISE FOE EMPEROR. 

"I remember," he added, "that my friend Dr. Pritehett, then presi- 
dent of the Massachusetts Institute of Technology at Boston, told me 
of the emperor's interest in and knowledge of technical education. 
While in Africa I used to think that there was something wrong with 
the mail if it did not bring me a letter from Benjamin Ide Wheeler tell- 
ing me of his admiration for some feature of German life and of the 
emperor's extraordinary qualities and kindness." 

After his remarks concerning military virtues, the former president 
said: 

"I saw some of your German troops march before the commander in 
chief yesterday. I cannot understand how any German could look upon 
those soldiers without a feeling of pride in the physical and intellectual 
character of those soldiers from the farm and shop, serving their time 
and then returning to their other work to be replaced by younger men. 
I can see only hope for the future with such men. I would like to speak 
of the men of the American civil war if I had the time and the voice." 



432 TRIUMPHAL JOURNEY THROUGH EUROPE. 

GREAT FORCES AT WORK.. 

Mr. Roosevelt's address in part follows: 

"The play of new forces is as evident in the moral and spiritual 
world as in the world of the mind and the body. Forces for good and 
forces for evil are eveiywhere evident, each acting with a hundred or a 
thousand fold the intensity with which it acted in former ages. Over 
the whole earth the swing of the penduhmi grows more and more rapid, 
the mainspring coils and spreads at a rate constantly quickening, and 
the whole world movement is of constantly accelerating velocity. 

"In this movement there are signs of much that bodes ill. The ma- 
chinery is so highly geared, the tension and strain are so great, the 
effort and the output alike have so increased tbat there is cause to 
dread the ruin that would come from any great accident, from any 
breakdown, and also the ruin that may come from the mere wearing out 
of the machine itself, 

COMPARED WITH GREECE AND ROME. 

"The only previous civilization with which our modern civilization 
can be compared is that period of Greco-Roman civilization extending, 
say, from the Athens of Themistocles to the Rome of Marcus Aurelius. 
Many of the forces and tendencies which were then at work are at work 
now. Knowledge, luxury and refinement, wide material conquests, ter- 
ritorial administration on a vast scale, an increase in the mastery of 
mechanical appliances and in applied science— all these mark our civ- 
ilization as they marked the wonderful civilization that flourished in the 
Mediterranean lands twenty centuries ago, and they preceded the down- 
fall of the older civilization. 

"Yet the differences are many, and some of them are quite as strik- 
ing as the similarities. The one fact that the old civilization was based 
upon slavery shows the chasm that separates the two. Let me point 
out one further and significant difference in the development of the two 
civilizations— a difference so obvious that it is astonishing that it has 
not been dwelt upon by men of letters. 



.^.^^ 



TRIUMPHAL JOURNEY THROUGH EUROPE. 433 

DANGER SEEN IN LUXURY. 

"One of the prime dangers of civilization has always been its ten- 
dency to cause the loss of the virile fighting virtues, of the fighting edge. 
When men get too comfortable and lead too luxurious lives there is 
always danger lest the softness eat like an acid into their manliness of 
fibre. The barbarian, because of the very conditions of his life,- is 
forced to keep and develop certain hardy qualities which the man of 
civilization tends to lose, whether he be clerk, factory hand, merchant 
or even a certain type of farmer. I will not assert that in modern civ- 
ilized society these tendencies have been wholly overcome, but there has 
been a much more successful effort to overcome them than was the case 
in the early civilizations. 

' ' What is the lesson to us to-day ? Are we to go the way of the older 
civilizations? The immense increase in the area of civilized activity 
to-day, so that it is nearly coterminous with the world's surface ; the im- 
mense increase in the multitudinous variety of its activities ; the im- 
mense increase in the velocity of the world movement— are all these to 
mean merely that the crash will be all the more complete and terrible 
when it comes? We cannot be certain that the answer will be in the 
negative ; but of this we can be certain, that we shall not go down in ruin 
unless we deserve and earn our end. There is no necessity for us to 
fall ; we can hew out our destiny for ourselves, if only we have the wit 
and courage and the honesty. 

BELIEVE CIVILIZATION WILL LIVE. 

"Personally I do not believe that our civilization will fall. I think 
that on the -whole we have grown better and not worse. I think that 
on the whole the future holds more for us than even the great past has 
held. But, assuredly, the dreams of golden glory in the future will not 
come true unless, high of heart and strong of hand, by our own mighty 
deeds we make them come true. We cannot afford to develop any one 
set of qualities, any one set of activities, at the cost of seeing others, 
equally necessary, atrophied. Neither the military efiSciency of the 



3» 



434 TRIUMPHAL JOURNEY THROUGH EUROPE. 

Mongol, nor the extraordinary business ability of the Phoenician, nor 
the subtle and polished intellect of the Greek availed to avert destruc- 
tion. 

"We, the men of to-day, and of the future, need many qualities if we 
are to do our work well. We need, first of all and most important of 
all, the qualities which stand at the base of individual, of family life— 
the fundamental and essential qualities— the homely, everyday, all-im- 
portant virtues. If the average man will not work, if he has not in him 
the will and the power to be a good husband and father; if the average 
woman is not a good housewife, a good mother of many healthy chil- 
dren, then the state will topple, will go down, no matter what may be its 
brilliancy of artistic development or material achievement. But these 
homely qualities are not enough. There must, in addition, be that power 
of organization, that power of working in common for a common end, 
which the German people have shown in such signal fashion during the 
last half-century. 

THINGS OF SPIKIT PUT FIRST. 

"Moreover, the things of the spirt are even more important than 
the things of the body. We can well do without the hard intolerance 
and arid intellectual barrenness of what was worst in the theological 
systems of the past, but there has never been greater need of 
a high and fine religious spirit than at the present time. So, 
while we can laugh good-naturedly at some of the pretensions of modem 
philosophy in its various branches, it would be worse than folly on our 
part to ignore our need of intellectual leadership. 

"Your own great Frederick once said that if he wished to punish a 
province he would leave it to be governed by philosophers. The sneer 
had in it an element of justice and yet no one better than the 
great Frederick knew the value of philosophers, the value of men 
of science, men of letters, men of art. It would be a bad 
thing, indeed, to accept Tolstoy as a guide in social and moral mat- 
ters ; but it would also be a bad thing not to have Tolstoy and not to 
profit by the lofty side of his teachings. There are plenty of scientific 
men whose hard arrogance, whose cynical materialism, whose dogmatic 



TRIUMPHAL JOURNEY THROUGH EUROPE. 435 

intolerance put them on a level with the bigoted mediaeval eocle- 
siasticism which they denounced. Yet our debt to scientific men is in- 
calculable and our civilization of today would have reft from it all that 
which most highly distinguishes it if the work of the great masters of 
science during the last four centuries were now undone or forgotten. 

PHILANTHHROPY AT ITS HIGHEST. 

"Never has philanthropy, humanitarianism seen such development 
as now ; and though we must all beware of the folly, and the viciousness 
no worse than folly, which marks the believer in the perfectibility of man 
when his heart runs away with his head or when vanity usurps the place 
of conscience, yet we must remember also that it is' only by working 
along the lines laid down by the philanthropists, by the lovers of man- 
kind, that we can be sure of lifting our civilization to a higher and more 
permanent plane of well-being than was ever attained by any preceding 
civilization. Unjust war is to be abhorred ; but woe to the nation that 
does not make ready to hold its own in time of need against all who 
would harm it ; and woe thrice over to the nation in which the average 
man loses the fighting edge, loses the power to serve as a soldier if the 
day of need should arise. 

"It is no impossible dream to build up a civilization in which mor- 
ality, ethical development and a true feeling of brotherhood shall all 
alike be divorced from false sentimentality, and from the rancorous and 
evil passions which, curiously enough, so often accompany professions 
of sentimental attachment to the rights of man, in which a high material 
development in the things of the body shall be achieved without subordi- 
nation of the things of the soul ; in which there shall be a genuine de- 
sire for peace and justice without loss of those virile qualities without 
which no love of peace or justice shall avail any race; in which the 
fullest development of scientific research, the great distinguishing fea- 
ture of our present civilization, shall yet not imply a belief that intel- 
lect can ever take the place of character— for, from the standpoint of 
the nation, as of the individual, it is character that is the one vital pos- 
session. 



436 TRIUMPHAL JOURNEY THROUGH EUROPE. 

SHOULD UNITE THE NATIONS. 

"Finally, this world movement of civilization, this movement which 
is now felt throbbing in every corner of the globe should bind the nations 
of the world together while yet leaving unimpaired that love of country 
in the individual citizen which in the present stage of the world's prog- 
ress is essential to the world's well-being. You, my hearers, and I 
who speak to you, belong to different nations. Under modem conditions 
the books we read, the news sent by telegraph to our newspapers, the 
strangers we meet, half of the things we hear and do each day, all tend 
to bring us into touch with other peoples. Each people can do justice to 
itself only if it does justice to others ; but each people can do its part in 
the world movement for all only if it first does its duty within its own 
household. The good citizen must be a good citizen of his own coun- 
try 'first before he can with advantage be a citizen of the world at large. 

"I wish you well. I believe in you and your future. I admire and 
wonder at the extraordinary greatness and variety of your achieve- 
ments in so many and such widely different fields ; and my admiration 
and regard are all the greater and not the less because I am so profound 
a believer in the institutions and the people of my own land." 

CONGRATUI/ATED BY THE KAISEB. 

The emperor took occasion to congratulate Mr. Eoosevelt on his lec- 
ture and its delivery, so courageously accomplished under distressing 
physical conditions. He talked with the former president for six or 
eight minutes. The assemblage waited until the emperor and Mr. Roose- 
velt had left the hall. 

Mr. Eoosevelt stopped for a few moments of conversation with 
Baroness von Sternberg, widow of the former German ambassador at 
Washington, and then left to have luncheon with Mr. and Mrs. Hill as 
guest of Foreign Minister and Frau von Schoen. 

KAISEB AND GUEST LIKE CHUMS. 

That Mr. Roosevelt and Emperor William were on terms of more 



TRIUMPHAL JOURNEY THROUGH EUROPE. 437 

than merely formal acquaintance was made obvious during their meet- 
ing in the aula of Berlin university today. The two men could not have 
greeted each other with more cordial informality if they had been 
friends of long standing and their meeting at the close of the lecture 
resembled a love feast, the kaiser and the colonel chatting and gesticu- 
lating like two enthusiastic schoolboys. 

Incidentally some of the cherished academic traditions which sur- 
round such events when royalty is present were punctured. Not only 
did Mr. Eoosevelt arrive a quarter of an hour late, the emperor and the 
royal family standing meanwhile in the outer vestibule, but he omitted 
the profound obeisance, which is expected in greeting the kaiser. In- 
stead he met him with a vigorous triple shake of the hand and the bare 
suggestion of a bow. 

Throughout Mr. Eoosevelt 's long address the kaiser, sitting almost 
at the speaker's feet, listened with every sign of rapt interest. He 
chuckled delightedly at the jokes which the lecturer interpolated into his 
written speech and many times, especially when the gpeaker referred 
to the need of cultivating a martial spirit in progressive nations, the 
kaiser nodded his head vigorously in emphatic approval. 

"When touching what are known as his favorite topics, Mr. Eoose- 
velt addressed himself directly to the emperor and it was noted that at 
no time were the latter 's nods of agreement more emphatic than when 
these points were made. 

Emperor William sent as a gift to Col. Eoosevelt a magnificent vase 
more than a yard liigh, especially manufactured for the distinguished 
visitor at the royal porcelain works and beautifully embellished with 
a portrait of the kaiser and pictures of the royal palace and terraces. 

Accompanying the vase was a note expressing the greatest pleasure 
the emperor felt in making the gift and asking that it be returned to 
the factory, where it was packed and forwarded to the German ambas- 
sador at Washington, by whom it later was dispatched to the former 
President's residence at Oyster Bay. 

The colonel was in his element at a luncheon at the house of Embassy 
Secretary Grew, where were assembled a group of big game hunters. 



438 TRIUMPHAL JOURNEY THROUGH EUROPE. 

They spent two hours swapping jungle stories with the former presi- 
dent. 

Dr. Schilling presented the colonel with a series of nature photo- 
graphs of dangerous game. 

Roosevelt has been the recipient of so many presents that he 
carried to America a great cargo of pictures, statues, books galore, 
cameras and other articles. 

With Ambassador Hill the visitor astonished the Berliners by taking 
a walk in the Thiergarten. He visited the Eoosevelt rooms in the library 
of the university where are the portraits and busts of many eminent 
Americans. He also visited the zoological gardens, dodging in and out 
of the exhibits between thunderstorms. 

Afterward he dined at the embassy, receiving with his wife several 
hundred prominent citizens of Berlin. He left at noon for London. 

EOOSEVELT IN LONDON, ENGLAND. 
COME IN ON SPECIAL TRAIN. 

On May 15th, Col. Roosevelt's party, which included Mrs. Roose- 
velt, Miss Roosevelt and Kermit, left Berlin, and it reached Flushing, 
Holland, at midnight. The travelers continued on the regular boat to 
Queensborough, England, where a special train was in waiting for 
them, which preceded the regular express to London. 

At Queensborough Mr. Roosevelt was joined by the aide-de-camps 
appointed by King George— Lord Dundonald and Commander Charles 
E. F. Cunninghame Graham— and by Vice Admiral Sir George Neville, 
commanding a division of the home fleet, who received the former presi- 
dent in the name of the king. The transfer to the special was made 
quickly and at 6 o'clock the party left for London. 

COLONEL KOOSEVELt's ARRIVAL. 

Dramatic silence was the most impressive feature of Mr. Roosevelt '3 
reception in London at 7 :45 o'clock in the morning. The crowd outside 
and inside Victoria station stood curious and mute, the persons receiv- 



TRIUMPHAL JOURNEY THROUGH EUROPE. *39 

ing and the persons received speaking little and only in the lowest tones. 
The approaches to the station and the arrival platform were lined with 
police, and the spot where the visitors were to alight was railed off, 
being only open to those ofiBcially concerned. Admittance to any part 
of the platform was to be had only on a signed permit from the station 
master. 

VISITOR LOOKS TIRED AND SERIOUS. 

Mr. Roosevelt stepped from the train slowly, looking somewhat tired 
and serious. He was dressed in black, and the mourning band of his 
silk hat reached within an inch of the top of the crown. He was closely 
followed by his wife and children and the other members of the party. 
A few steps from the carriage door stood Ambassador and Mrs. Reid, 
both strikingly gray in their mourning attire. Bowing his bared head 
unusually low, Mr. Roosevelt shook hands with them, and expressed 
his thanks for their coming to meet him. He proceeded quickly to shake 
hands with Consul-General John L. Griffiths, the members of the Ameri- 
can embassy and their wives and a few well-known Americans. 

The Roosevelt smile was wanting, and only after he had finished his 
greetings and turned back from the carriage to give directions about his 
baggage, did the onlookers get a hint of the Rooseveltian vehemence of 
manner. His step became firm and his orders were brief and final. The 
public, massed against the railings, could see the colonel distinctly. 
This was the man of whom they had read columns as a statesman, ora- 
tor and hunter ; this was the missionary of the strenuous life and, the 
English love a fighting man. 

FIND HIM NOT A GIANT. 

Soon the crowd pressed Mr. Roosevelt hard and those in front cried 
out in protest. 

"Why," said one "he looks small! I thought he would be a giant." 

"Ah, yes," replied a neighbor, "but see that glare on his face. He 
looks as if he might eat a man alive. ' ' 

Five minutes was all the time Mr. Roosevelt remained before the 



440 TRIUMPHAL JOURNEY THROUGH EUROPE. 

people and he was clearly not in his most vigorous form. Yet one could 
not fail to discern how the crowds felt the force of his character. Their 
eyes were fastened on the resolute face and their features reflected in- 
tense curiosity, respect and even astonishment that a plain man in plain 
clothes could affect his fellows so peculiarly. 

Outside the station waited royal carriages with coachmen and foot- 
men in scarlet coats and gold braided, cockaded hats. Passing out with 
Mr. and Mrs. Reid, through a silent group of men and women clad in 
mourning, Mr. Roosevelt took a seat in a royal carriage and was driven 
with his party to Dorchester house for breakfast. Just beyond the 
station gates a body of boy scouts, bare-kneed, with blue jerseys, and 
with bands of crepe around their gray felt hats, were drawn up at sa- 
lute—potential soldiers paying their respects to an actual campaigner. 
Mr. Roosevelt seemed deeply touched, lifted his silk hat and smiled for 
the first time. 

STREETS NEARLY DESERTED. 

Because of the Whitsuntide holiday, the streets were almost de- 
serted. The buildings were wrapped in a beautiful pale blue haze, 
heralding a brilliant day, as Mr. Roosevelt drove through avenues 
lined with draperies of royal purple, fringed with white, with here 
and there a union jack half-masted, half-furled and marked with crepe, 
and passed uncovered almost within the shadow of Buckingham palace, 
with its royal bier and widowed queen. 

SEES DEAD KINg's FACE. 

Col. Roosevelt was received by King George at Marlborough house, 
and later visited Buckingham palace where the body of King Edward 
was lying in state. 

Apart from the strong interest displayed in the arrival of the former 
president the day was uneventful. An enormous crowd, composed 
mainly of provincialists, spent the day patiently watching outside 
Buckingham palace and Marlborough house the comings and goings of 
royalties and princely visitors. 



TRIUMPHAL JOURNEY THROUGH EUROPE. 441 

DIPLOMATS AT DORCHESTER HOUSE. 

The diplomatic representatives of all the powers called at Dorchester 
house during the course of the day and left cards for Col. Roosevelt. 

Mr. and Mrs. Eoosevelt called upon Crown Princess Christian of 
Denmark, the Duke and Duchess of Argyll, the Princess Henry of 
Battenberg, and the Duchess of Fife, and at Buckingham palace in- 
scribed their names in the visiting book of Dowager Empress Marie of 
Russia, Russian Grand Duke Michael Alexandrovitch, and King Haakon 
and Queen Maud of Norway. 

HAAKON CALLS ON ROOSEVELTS. 

The Roosevelts had only just returned to Dorchester house when they 
received a return call from King Haakon, who greeted the special am- 
bassador and his wife as old friends. While luncheon was being served 
the Duke of Connaught and Prince Arthur of Connaught called. 

Mrs. Roosevelt went to Buckingham palace again this afternoon and 
paid a visit to Queen Maud. 

Mr. Roosevelt's throat still bothered him. It was examined this 
afternoon by Dr. St. Claire Thomson, the throat specialist who attended 
King Edward during his last illness. Dr. Thomson prescribed further 
treatment for Mr. Eoosevelt. 

Ex-President Roosevelt's acceptance of the office of envoy extraor- 
dinary and special plenipotentiary representing the United States at 
King Edward's funeral gave him a status there and imposed obliga- 
tions upon him which did not burden him as a private citizen. He went 
as a mourner, and until he had taken formal adieu of the new king after 
the funeral he lived almost in seclusion, as other envoys, whether royal 
or otherwise do. 

The death of Edward VII. which plunged every court of Europe into 
mourning, not only for a brother monarch but, in most cases, for a near 
and well loved kinsman, has had an effect upon the European tour of 
Theodore Roosevelt and his family. 

Though traveling in an unofficial capacity, Mr. Roosevelt stayed in 



442 TRIUMPHAL JOURNEY THROUGH EUROPE. 

a palace of which King Edward's niece was the mistress. He went 
direct from a visit at another palace where King Edward's daughter 
is the queen consort. Immediately before that he had been staying at a 
court which gave to Edward and to England Queen Alexandra, who 
stepped into the hearts of the English people of the day she landed on, 
their shores. 

EOOSEVELT PRAISK XO EDWABD. 

"I am deeply grieved, and I know all Americans to be deeply 
grieved, at the death of his majesty. We feel the most profound sym- 
pathy for the British people ia their loss. We in America keenly ap- 
preciate King Edward's personal good will toward us, which he so fre- 
quently and so markedly showed. 

"We are well aware of the devotion felt for him by his subjects 
throughout the British Empire, while all foreign nations learned to see 
in the King a ruler whose great ability, especially his tact, his judg- 
ment and his unfailing kindliness of nature, rendered him peculiarly fit 
to work for international peace and justice. 

,."Let me repeat that I am sure the American people will feel at this 
time the deepest and most sincere sympathy for his nation. 

Speaking of the late king's tact, Mr. Roosevelt gave an illustration 
of what he termed the finer sense of things which the king possessed. 

"Next to the ring John Hay gave me," he said, "I value the minia- 
ture King Edward sent me, after I became president, of John Hamp- 
den. That was a present a sovereign could make with dignity and one, a 
democratic president could accept. All historians and royalists agree 
that Hampden was a good man. The king must have known that Hamp- 
den was one of my four heroes— Timoleon, Hampden, Washington and 
Lincoln. Such a selection as the miniature showed extreme tact. 

"I have a personal feeling about the king's death. I know that he 
had an earnest desire to keep the relations between Great Britain and 
the United States on the closest and most friendly terms. King Ed- 
ward's death removes one influence that tended strongly for peace and 
justice in international relations. His own people and other lands 
must feel that loss." 



TRIUMPHAL JOURNEY THROUGH EUROPE. 443 

JL BRITISH EDITORS TRIBUTE TO ROOSEVELT. 

Britain delights to honor Mr. Eoosevelt : 

First, because he is the most conspicuous and most representative 
living American. 

Secondly, because upon him more than any other man has fallen the 
mantle of Mr. Gladstone as the exponent of the moral sense of mankind. 
Thirdly, because he is so magnificent a specimen of the vigorous 
vitality of mortal man. 

Fourthly, because a very great number of our people regard him as 
the great antagonist to trusts. He is a kind of living statue of Ajax 
defying the lightning and is worshiped accordingly. 

And, fifthly, we remember that during the whole of his presidency 
he never said a word or did a deed that was unfriendly to England, 
while his arbitration policy was entirely in accord with our ideals. 

W. T. STEAD. 

[W. T. Stead, editor of the British Eeview of Reviews, the noted 
journalist and peace advocate, was bom in 1849.] 

ROOT IN LONDON" WITH ROOSEVELT. 

On May 30th former President Roosevelt had an opportunity to 
hear something of affairs in the United States. By appointment he 
met Senator Eliliu Root, who was passing through London on his way 
to The Hague. Mr. Roosevelt and his former secretary of state had a 
long talk at Ambassador Reid's residence, Dorchester House. 

Many well known persons, Americans and English, gathered at the 
Ritz Hotel, where Sir George and Lady Reid gave a reception to meet 
Mr. and Mrs. Roosevelt, who helped Sir George and Lady Reid to re- 
ceive guests, with Lady Jersey beside them and Ambassador Whitelaw 
Reid near by. 

Lord Kitchener was in a corner hobnobbing with Mrs. Asquith, who 
wore a black dress and a row of dull jet beads, with a turban. She 
brought Miss Elizabeth Asquith, who talks like a grownup girl for ail 
her short frocks and childish air. 



444 TRIUMPHAL JOURNEY THROUGH EUROPE. 

When a move for tea was made to the ballroom Mr. Koosevelt 
walked with Lady Greville, who is the latest American addition to the 
peeresses, her husband having succeeded to the title a week after their 
marriage. She was wearing a Noah 's ark black satin coat over a black 
dress. A long row of pearls was knotted in front, she had great pearl 
drop earrings, and her hat was trirmned with an enormous black plume. 

Mrs. Roosevelt's jewels were a necklace of diamond medallions. She 
wore an embroidered black gown with net sleeves, closely tucked, and a 
wide brimmed hat with a floating lace veil. 

Mrs. Glasgow was smart in a princess robe of dull satin. Other 
well dressed women were Mrs. Simpson, Lady PhillijDS, and Lady Par- 
ker, who came with Sir Gilbert Parker. Lord Charles Beresford and 
Mr. Eoosevelt had a great confabulation. Other distinguished persons 
in the crowd were Sir Hubert Von Herkomer, E. A. ; Lord Greville, 
Lord Tennyson, Admiral the Hon. Edmund and Lady Freemantle, Mrs. 
Emily Soldene, famour opera bouffe actress of former days ; Sir Regi- 
nald and Lady Talbot, Sir Arthur and Lady Conan Doyle, Miss Ada 
Crossley and Lady Grey-Egerton. 

Late in the afternoon when the reception was at its height, Mr. 
Eoosevelt looked at his watch and suddenly remembered an important 
private engagement. He passed through the hotel lobby like Halley's 
comet, with Ambassador Eeid vainly attempting to keep up with him. 
Mr. Eoosevelt ran down the steps at the entrance and looked about for 
his motor car. It was not to be seen. 

Then, while a little crowd of curious persons assembled on the pave- 
ment, the es-i3resident interviewed coachmen and footmen and waved 
his arms and demanded information. Finally the motor car was picked 
out of the maze of waiting veliicles and brought to the door. Mr. 
Eoosevelt handed in Mrs. Eoosevelt, jumped in after her, slammed the 
door, and waved his hand. 

Mr. Eeid stood on the pavement smiling blankly as the motor car 
whirled away. The spectators gasped. An observer said they looked 
as if they had narrowly escaped being hit by a steam roller. The en- 
gagement the Eoosevelts thus kept was to take tea with Mrs. Humphrey 
Ward. 



TRIUMPHAL JOURNEY THROUGH EUROPE. 445 

Mr. Roosevelt lunched with the Geographical Club, where he met 
Eobert E. Peary and dined with Lord Charles Beresford. 

NOTABLE SPEECH MADE IN LONDON. 

On May 31st Theodore Roosevelt was presented with the freedom 
of the city of London and accepted the honor with a literalism that led 
him into a frankness of speech which created a sensation in the Guild- 
hall. As the former head of a country which once paid tribute to Great 
Britain, the American statesman gave the motherland bold advice as 
to its duty toward its most troublesome dependency in Africa. 

It was, Mr. Roosevelt said, either right or not right for Great 
Britain to be in Egypt and establish order there. If it was not right 
she should get out, he added. 

Mr. Roosevelt eulogized British rule in Uganda and the Sudan. He 
declared that Great Britain had given Egypt the best government the 
country had in two thousand years, but that in certain vital points it 
had erred. Timidity and sentimentality, he said, might cause more 
harm than violence and injustice. 

"Sentimentality," he added, "is the most broken reed upon which 
righteousness can lean." 

Mr. Roosevelt denounced the nationalist party of Egypt as neither 
desirous nor capable of guaranteeing primary justice, but as trying to 
bring murderous chaos upon the land. Some nation, said the former 
President, must govern Egypt, and he hoped and believed the English 
would decide that the duty was theirs. 

THEILL AMONG HIS HEAREKS. 

As a whole the speech was considered the most forcible expression 
on foreign topics the American visitor made during his European tour. 
British policy in Egypt was one of the most discussed of Britain's 
colonial questions and his outspoken views sent a thrill through the one 
thousand auditors. 

Guildhall has been the scene of many stirring events since its 
erection early in the fifteenth century. It was there that the trials of 



446 TRIUMPHAL JOURNEY THROUGH EUROPE. 

Anne Askew, the earl of Surrey and Lady Jane Grey were held, but no 
audience of modem times has listened more intently to the proceedings 
therein than did that which gathered to-day to hear the former Presi- 
dent of the United States. 

Mr. Roosevelt was driven in state from Ambassador Reid's home 
to the Guildhall, but the weather was not propitious, and comparatively 
few persons saw the procession. Rain fell throughout the morning, 
keeping many people indoors, and only a few hundred were near Dor- 
chester House to witness the departure or in King Street when Mr. 
Roosevelt arrived at the hall. He occupied the lord mayor's coach 
and this was followed by the coaches of the sheriffs, who wore their 
uniforms of office. 

Guests of the city government at the Guildhall included many Amer- 
ican and English business men, besides the officials of the city. The lat- 
ter were in uniform and occupied seats on the platform to which Mr. 
Roosevelt was escorted. 

PABCHMENT IN GOLDEN CASKET. 

The parchment conveying to Mr. Roosevelt the freedom of the city 
was in a beautiful golden casket. The casket was oblong, the front and 
reverse sides being divided into four panels bearing enamel-painted 
views of the Guildhall, the Mansion House, St. Paul's Cathedral and the 
Tower bridge. The center was occupied by the full blazon of the city 
arms in enamel, with an ornamental shield below containing the inscrip- 
tion. At the four corners were enameled the arms of England and of 
the United States, the city shield and the Union Jack. 

The base was of solid silver, having at one end an American bison 
and at the other the British lion. The base stood on eight bold feet 
with a lower pedestal of oak and velvet. 

The presentation was made by Sir Joseph Cockfield Dimsdale, city 
chamberlain, who, extending his hand to the guest, spoke briefly. Sir 
Joseph dwelt on Great Britain's friendship for the United States. 

After the exercises Sir John Knill, lord mayor of London, enter- 
tained Mr. Roosevelt at a private luncheon, at which many prominent 
persons were present. 



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